(Solved) I7 3820 is not stable anymore on the Stock frequency

[vmidov]

It would be very unusual, but might it be possible something has happened to the memory controller on the CPU? I'm not good at the stuff inside CPUs, so I probably horribly wrong, but it's a guess.

Also, I would try a 64-bit windows. It can't hurt to have a copy.

Do you mean the CPU is corrupted?but If so how can make sure about that?
and I have 64-Bit Windows but I didn't updated My system page at the forum (updated now). But I will try another copy of the windows.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Cartel]

If the sfc /scannow shows no errors, another thing to try is diasable the pagefile on all drives, reboot and then enable it again.
Sometimes it gets corrupt and causes issues.
uncheck Automatically manage paging file size for all drives then click each drive and select no pagefile and set each one.

After reboot check Automatically manage paging file size for all drives again.

Also uncheck auto restart and overwrite in the start up and recovery options
and use this: http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html as it will show the drivers causing the problem in red.

 

[xorbe]

This seems like some sort of hardware problem to me -- was working, it quit, then reinstall didn't help. I have seen gpu/mobo firmware suddenly corrupt, so the reflash comment is worth a try. Reseating all the hardware including the CPU is worth a try.

I'm stumped on this one. I'd start swapping hardware (as OP has done with the RAM and drives) including the PSU. It's hard to swap CPUs when they are expensive. Sometimes things just fail.

 

[RejZoR]

I once had such problem because of faulty HDD. And only way I spotted it was when I ran Crystal Disk Info and it said HDD was funky. Replaced it with the currend 2TB HDD and never had problems since. I've tested everything but the HDD and it always failed. But not after HDD replacement. Weird, but apaprently not impossible.

Funny thing is, it was functional enough so that I could still access all the files, data, nothing that would directly indicate it was HDD.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Check CPU <-> heatsink thermal paste. Sometimes it dries up into dust.

TIM (thermal interface material) does not wear out, degrade in efficiency, dry up, or otherwise need regular replacing AS LONG AS the cured bond between the mating surfaces remains intact and is not broken. TIM will and does easily last 10 - 15 years or longer, IF left undisturbed.

BUT, if the bond is broken (typically through abuse by bouncing the computer off the floor, during transport, or by twisting the heatsink to see if loose ), then the two mating surfaces MUST be thoroughly cleaned and a fresh, new, thin layer of TIM must be applied.

Note TIM exposed to air on the edges of the mating surfaces will dry out, but that's okay. It is between the mating surfaces that matters.

 

[xorbe]

TIM (thermal interface material) does not wear out, degrade in efficiency, dry up, or otherwise need regular replacing AS LONG AS the cured bond between the mating surfaces remains intact and is not broken. TIM will and does easily last 10 - 15 years or longer, IF left undisturbed.

Or if cheap junk was used! There's also something called the pumping effect. I had one of those stock heatsinks with the grey material pre-applied that dried up pretty quickly.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Even basic, plain ol' silicon paste will last 10+ years IF the bond is not broken. If you had TIM dry up AND crack, letting air in, then it was because the bond was broken, not because the TIM was inferior. While those OEM pads are not the best at transferring heat, they still have extremely long life.

Remember, the vast majority of computers are sold to businesses that may go 5 - 8 years without even being cleaned and the TIM is still effective. As an electronics tech for 45+ years, I have seen easily TIM outlast the electronics.

Also, it is critical to remember that the best heat transfer occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact and the purpose of TIM is to ONLY fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to push any insulating air out. That's it! Any excess is in the way and counterproductive to the heat transfer process! So even if it does dry and remain solid, metal-to-metal contact is maintained and the TIM still occupies the space keeping the insulating air out of those pits and valleys. TIM does not contain water and most of the remaining materials do not evaporate IF not exposed to air.

Finally, do not compare those OEM pads of 10 -15 years ago with OEM pads used today. Both AMD and Intel provide excellent quality TIM with their CPUs that come packaged with OEM coolers (which today are excellent too).

 

[peche]

Both AMD and Intel provide excellent quality TIM with their CPUs that come packaged with OEM coolers (which today are excellent too).

where have you been last 10 years....or what means excellent for you?
intel stock cooler for intel's Lynnfield processors is pure crap dude... Pre-applied TIM on it its like mayonaise on benchs, lasts a couple of test working fine, then dries... replaced with Coolermaster Ice Fusion and Arctic silver 5 sometimes...

AMD phenon X4 Black eddition was another nightmare.... supplied TIM wasnt so bad, replaced with coolermaster Ice Fusion, stock cooler died 60 days after first use...

Intel's Sandy Bridge processors: Cooler is decent but same problem with the crappy TIM pre-applied on Cooler's bottom, replaced with Arctic Silver 5, no problems so far, pretty noisy cooler,

Intel's Ivy Bridge processors, well the problem here is not the cooler... is that crap they put between CPU Die and IHS... they did not soldered those parts together... they had used some glue and thermal crappy paste...

Regards,

 

[Bill_Bright]

By excellent, I mean today's OEM coolers are more than capable of keeping their CPUs adequately cooled, even with mild to moderate over-clocking - contrary to what many, including 3rd cooler makers, what like us to believe.

To suggest otherwise is silly! Why? Because if not adequate, there would be millions and millions of factory built systems with constant heat problems and that is not happening.

For sure, if you are doing extreme overclocking, you would want a better 3rd party cooler, but the vast majority of users, there is nothing wrong with the OEMs. As I said before, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing. The CPU fan need only toss the CPU's heat up into that air flow.

Cooler does not necessarily mean better. There is no reason to suggest or believe a CPU running at 40°C will perform better, be more stable, or have a longer life than a CPU running at 55°C. All cooler really gets you is bragging rights. Not that there is anything wrong there, just not necessary for stable computing.

Benchmarks are not realistic - or for the normal person.

As for where have I been, follow the link in my sig.

 

[vmidov]

Bad news
Am trying to install new version of windows, but the PC does not give me chance to start windows installation.
every time try to boot windows give me stupid BSOD, that there were be crucial problem and windows BSOD to prevent damage to the computer.
even after set Bios to default and downgrade RAM to 1333mhz.

any suggestions to help?

I once had such problem because of faulty HDD. And only way I spotted it was when I ran Crystal Disk Info and it said HDD was funky. Replaced it with the currend 2TB HDD and never had problems since. I've tested everything but the HDD and it always failed. But not after HDD replacement. Weird, but apaprently not impossible.

Funny thing is, it was functional enough so that I could still access all the files, data, nothing that would directly indicate it was HDD.

I disconnected both SSD and HDD but windows not even start boot the DVD

 

[Aquinus]

Try running with just 1 stick of memory in slot 1A, if it still doesn't work try a different DIMM in the same slot. If that doesn't work, try that same DIMM in a different slot (maybe B1?). If that doesn't work, re-seat the CPU and try again with any DIMM in just A1.

 

[Rowsol]

I'm sorry to hear what is happening to you. I know how frustrating and depressing it can be to have the computer not working right and not knowing what the problem is. I hope you figure it out.

 

[xorbe]

Any bulging caps on the motherboard?

CPU heatsink that looks seated but actually has a gap / poor pressure? CPU temp okay in BIOS?

 

[peche]

By excellent, I mean today's OEM coolers are more than capable of keeping their CPUs adequately cooled, even with mild to moderate over-clocking - contrary to what many, including 3rd cooler makers, what like us to believe.

To suggest otherwise is silly! Why? Because if not adequate, there would be millions and millions of factory built systems with constant heat problems and that is not happening.

For sure, if you are doing extreme overclocking, you would want a better 3rd party cooler, but the vast majority of users, there is nothing wrong with the OEMs. As I said before, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing. The CPU fan need only toss the CPU's heat up into that air flow.

Cooler does not necessarily mean better. There is no reason to suggest or believe a CPU running at 40°C will perform better, be more stable, or have a longer life than a CPU running at 55°C. All cooler really gets you is bragging rights. Not that there is anything wrong there, just not necessary for stable computing.

Benchmarks are not realistic - or for the normal person.

As for where have I been, follow the link in my sig.

understood, but oem or stock cooler are just decent...

Bad news
Am trying to install new version of windows, but the PC does not give me chance to start windows installation.
every time try to boot windows give me stupid BSOD, that there were be crucial problem and windows BSOD to prevent damage to the computer.
even after set Bios to default and downgrade RAM to 1333mhz.

any suggestions to help?

have you replaced the ram or also use diferent ram ....

Any bulging caps on the motherboard?

CPU heatsink that looks seated but actually has a gap / poor pressure? CPU temp okay in BIOS?

also your motherboard migh be f*cked...

 

[vmidov]

Try running with just 1 stick of memory in slot 1A, if it still doesn't work try a different DIMM in the same slot. If that doesn't work, try that same DIMM in a different slot (maybe B1?). If that doesn't work, re-seat the CPU and try again with any DIMM in just A1.

I tried almost the 4 slots but I will give it another try today after work, but I have a question about it

as you can see there are the Main blue colored slots and there are secondary black colored slots , since I brought the mobo I was never allowed to put any RAMs at the black one always beep till I but it back into the blue ones ( I thought at this time coz it's the main and should be filled)Am I right? or the black slots are dead from the beginning?

Any bulging caps on the motherboard?

CPU heatsink that looks seated but actually has a gap / poor pressure? CPU temp okay in BIOS?

I am sorry I did not got what you mean with "bulging caps on the motherboard?" forgive me for that can you explain please.

CPU temps are very normal at the Bios or the Windows (when it was works) ~ 35 Idle / ~ 55 Under stress

understood, but oem or stock cooler are just decent...


have you replaced the ram or also use diferent ram ....


also your motherboard migh be f*cked...

I have replaced the RAMs with my old Kingston HyperX 2 GB stick which was worked perfect before. But same result.

I have a thought about the Mobo too, but I need to be 100% sure before buy new one.

Thanks again every one, you really help my a lot

 

[xorbe]

I am sorry I did not got what you mean with "bulging caps on the motherboard?" forgive me for that can you explain please.

Go to google image search, and search for "bulging caps", that's easy way to see.

 

[Cartel]

 

[Bill_Bright]

Corsair 650W
I have a thought about the Mobo too, but I need to be 100% sure before buy new one.

You have a relatively efficient CPU and as seen in this TPU review your graphics card is hardly a power hog. Therefore, that Corsair 650W is more than capable of easily supporting your hardware. Why do you think it can "barely handle the equipment"?

There is a 3 year warranty on that motherboard. How old is it?

understood, but oem or stock cooler are just decent...

"Just decent?"

The Toyota Camry and Honda Accord are "just decent" cars, does that mean they can't take you where you need to go in the same amount of time safely or comfortably? Of course not! You don't need a fancy Lexus or Acura to get you where you need to go when something "just decent" will do "just fine". But if you want show the world how successful you are, you can buy a fancy car. Or if you are into racing your car, you can replace the stock suspension and cooling for something that allows you push the car to extremes. But those actions make you an extremist - one of the 5%, not a "normal" user - the other 95%. It is not right to push or assume "extremists" needs are the same needs for the vast majority that makes up everybody else.

I say again, if you not doing heavy overclocking, and you have a properly cooled case, the OEM coolers are more than adequate to keep your CPU comfortably within the "normal operating range". That, in turn, will keep the CPU running stable, at specified performance levels, and no loss of longevity.

ONLY OEM coolers are warrantied to protect the CPUs they come with! No aftermarket cooler will replace the CPU should it fail to do its job. Since neither AMD or Intel want to replace expensive CPUs because of an inadequate OEM, they don't package their CPUs with "crap" coolers.

That said, I do agree 100% that the use of a good aftermarket TIM will provide a few degrees of better cooling than those OEM pads. But the fact is, IF you need those 4-5°C of cooling to bring your temps down into a safe temperature range, that mean you failed to properly configure your case cooling. It does NOT mean the OEM cooler is failing to do its job.

 

[peche]

"Just decent?"

The Toyota Camry and Honda Accord are "just decent" cars, does that mean they can't take you where you need to go in the same amount of time safely or comfortably? Of course not! You don't need a fancy Lexus or Acura to get you where you need to go when something "just decent" will do "just fine". But if you want show the world how successful you are, you can buy a fancy car. Or if you are into racing your car, you can replace the stock suspension and cooling for something that allows you push the car to extremes. But those actions make you an extremist - one of the 5%, not a "normal" user - the other 95%. It is not right to push or assume "extremists" needs are the same needs for the vast majority that makes up everybody else.

I say again, if you not doing heavy overclocking, and you have a properly cooled case, the OEM coolers are more than adequate to keep your CPU comfortably within the "normal operating range". That, in turn, will keep the CPU running stable, at specified performance levels, and no loss of longevity.

ONLY OEM coolers are warrantied to protect the CPUs they come with! No aftermarket cooler will replace the CPU should it fail to do its job. Since neither AMD or Intel want to replace expensive CPUs because of an inadequate OEM, they don't package their CPUs with "crap" coolers.

That said, I do agree 100% that the use of a good aftermarket TIM will provide a few degrees of better cooling than those OEM pads. But the fact is, IF you need those 4-5°C of cooling to bring your temps down into a safe temperature range, that mean you failed to properly configure your case cooling. It does NOT mean the OEM cooler is failing to do its job.

whatever you said champ!

 

[bubbleawsome]

as you can see there are the Main blue colored slots and there are secondary black colored slots , since I brought the mobo I was never allowed to put any RAMs at the black one always beep till I but it back into the blue ones ( I thought at this time coz it's the main and should be filled)Am I right? or the black slots are dead from the beginning?

Um, I think all slots should be working.

-cpu cooler rant snip-

Ok sure, the cooler on my totally OEM prebuilt dell that let my 870 get to 99c was "ok"
And the stock cooler on my 4670k that let it get into the 90s even with a crapton of fans is ok.
Sure

 

[Bill_Bright]

Yeah, you and the rest of the 1.4 billion users of stock coolers too!

You win. Your exceptions to the rule make the rule.

 

[Bill_Bright]

BTW, I guess my 3.4GHz i7 3770 pushed to 4183GHz with its stock cooler, with ambient temps of 74°F is about to burn up too!

 

[vmidov]

You have a relatively efficient CPU and as seen in this TPU review your graphics card is hardly a power hog. Therefore, that Corsair 650W is more than capable of easily supporting your hardware. Why do you think it can "barely handle the equipment"?

There is a 3 year warranty on that motherboard. How old is it?

so it is not the PSU.
about 3 years and couple of months.

Um, I think all slots should be working.

You mean that the Mobo has problem from the first day then?

 

[Bill_Bright]

about 3 years and couple of months.

That's how my luck works.

I really don't have anything else to offer other than what has been suggested. If might try to find a very trusting friend with a compatible CPU, you can try that just to make sure it is not your CPU.

 

[peche]

That's how my luck works.

I really don't have anything else to offer other than what has been suggested. If might try to find a very trusting friend with a compatible CPU, you can try that just to make sure it is not your CPU.

pretty sure that its a motherboard issue,
Intel processors are well know for a comun fact, they work or they dont work at stock settings...

Regards,