Discussion in 'RealTemp' started by hhempel, Jan 6, 2010.
i agree i was just stating fact. still i dont think the proc is the issue.
I have the internet at my disposal too. Thanks.
Like I said, looking at the way the TIM is spread out, bad mounting job.
i wasnt implying that you didnt. but seeing as you would rather argue samantics instead of looking i decided to do it for you. /rainbows and stuff/ but it doesnt matter now. either way you look at it. a new cooler is needed for the clocks he has been trying/wants to obtain. That and a new cooler would probably get rid of his mount problems as most dont use those stupid clips.
More good suggestions and thanks again to all... Here are 2 screen grabs from CPU-z on the voltage issue (top image is idle, bottom image is FULL load (PRIME 95)):
For the record, I have been playing around all day with various "configs" on this case (open, full fans (both), slow fans (both)) Absolutely no differences... My take is that the "ambients" in the case are not a factor...
I am now zeroing in on the paste mount... I REALLY hate the OEM push pin solution... It is FAR from ideal as their is very little way to "postively mount" the fan... The pressure applied by the OEM solution is totally inadequate IMHO...
Aww, don't get upset, I'm sitting here happy as a clam, not trying to make you cry . Besides my original post in this thread wasn't directed at you but I think you thought that it was. As far as I know, they are trying to obtain stock clocks.
Well, that all looks great. Keep working with the cooler and try to get it mounted correctly.
vV*That's a good boy, daddy luffs you.Vv
i know dad i was just putting on some theatrics. moving on it seems the voltage is indeed fine. the only thing to really do now is make sure you put on a thin coat of TIM evenly and make sure you mount the stock cooler right because those clips are uber fail. make sure their not broken and when you mount it give it a little pull in each direction to make sure a corner isnt messed up. then flip the board over and make sure the white/black clips are all pushed through all the way.
lol [/hugs and good bonding time infront of the fire with rifles overhead and beers]
rotate the pegs and try to "click in the legs" while the cooler is in your hands to verify they are turned correctly for mounting. After this turn em to unlock them, then reset the cooler to its "lockable" possition.
When it is mounted, you should feel the white bits settle into the holes in the motherboard. Push each leg into the board until you hear it click into locked possition. a gentle tug on the top of the cooler once all the legs are locked should verify if it is on solid or not.
if you consider the cosair H50 is nice. I brought one from Best Buy $60. I overclocked my i7 920 to 4.0 with no problem. max temp is 50C with real temp using prime 95
Inadequate? It applies so much pressure it bends the motherboard...
And you know it is on there good when you can't lift up, it will feel solidly mounted.
The voltages in the CPUz screen shot looks better, but then again I've seen CPUz be wrong just as often as Speedfan... I'd still set it to something like 1.1v manually in the BIOS.
Maybe it was just my 'noobness', but I really struggles to get the pins to work and hold... I ultimately got it done, but it was tough and while the heatsink/fan were definitely 'attached', it never seemed to be 'solid'...
It might sound totally nuts, but my MB is marketed as "heavier"... Is it conceivable that the board's thickness would affect the mounting?
In any case, I ordered a new cooler that has "through the board" mounting... Will report back as soon as I get it all installed (end of the week)...
I will definitely set the voltages manually as suggested...
If you want a good one, spend the money and get a Mega or Noctua NH-D14. The Mega may be cheaper, but if you add in two 120mm fans, you'll be at the same price of the Noctua.
What something that is cheaper but still able to give you a little overclocking room then I'd go with the Xigmatek 1283 and bolt down kit. It's the same as my relabeled OCZ Vendetta 2. I was able to push to ~1.25v on the core before temps started to climb into the mid to upper 80s on my i7. It's about $40 after rebates and shipping.
I will say that even though my Noctua cost about twice as much as my V2, it pushes just as far but with a lot less noise. Doing passive with 24C ambient at stock clocks is a breeze.
Whenever I have to use push pin HSFs in builds I have to take the MB out to be able to maneuver and verify that the pins are installed right- plus a case is too cramped for my hands. I think that is most likely the issue here.
As for Speedfan's Vcore2 value, my guess is that is the RAM voltage just mislabeled.
i guess it's turbo boost cuz , it's automatically overclock the cpu over 3.4ghz , i see the stock cooler of i7 860 it's really crap 2cm height damn cooler , and also im feeling good when i see this cpu can run under 100c
Update: i7 Overheating (OEM Cooler)
Bought the Thermalright Mux 120 (1156)... A real beauty and only ~$60 delivered...
Installed relatively easy (MB totally out for through-da-board).
First round of tests were very gratifying with the core idling around 21C:
Second round of tests at 3.8OC were too hot (90s at full load)
Last round of tests found a comfortable OC for me at 3.3Ghz:
Thanks again to ALL for your timely and constructive input!
Put a faster rpm fan on that baby and you will go even further!
i wondered who would spot the speed of the fan 1024rpm
(i've not got one so i don't know for sure what they are supposed to run at)
but surely guys that speed is totaly inadequate,
my big 120mm runs at 1400rpm and my 80mm fans run between 2200-2500rpm
and that's with a speed controller in between so ergo
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