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Is my 5820K this crappy or am I missing something?

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Recently upgraded to a 5820K, Asrock X99M Killer, and 2x4GB Crucial Sport DDR4-2400 RAM.

Problem I'm having is that no matter the voltage I can't seem to get my system stable and just having weird issues over all.

For instance, I have about a 90% failure rate on manually overclocking (won't even get past BIOS start up let alone Windows) but if I load a predefined OC profile the computer boots up just fine.

So I think, "OK I'll just use a profile then!". The 4.4GHz profile (with 1.31v and 1.9v input) worked fine all last night, no problems. I gamed, ran Prime95 for an hour, watched videos with Chrome and about 10 other tabs, etc. Seems to be solid! I go to shut down the computer and it freezes on the shut down screen. Not as solid as I thought?

So I get up this morning, reboot, and these settings don't seem to work anymore...I get the same problems as I do when I manually try to OC.

So I get into the BIOS, load the 4.4GHz profile again but lower the multiplier to 4.2GHz. I think that everything being higher than needed for 4.2GHz that this must work, right?

Again, PC runs fine. All day today. Playing GTA 5, game crashes, click on "End Program"...bam...frozen. Reboot the PC...same problem as before.

So yeah...I know for a fact that mine...or any 5820K...should be able to handle freakin 4.2GHz at 1.31v with 1.9v input.

What's the deal here? Am I missing some setting? Anyone else have a similar setup? It's pretty aggravating.

Also, Windows takes, like, forever to load now. I'd swear it's running off of a 5400RPM hard drive or something. Where on my Z77 system it would be done before the logo could even form now it sits there...loading...for at least a good 8-10 seconds or so.

Anyways, thoughts?
 
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Here's pics I took of the BIOS. This is the 4.4GHz pre-made profile. Excuse the flash in the center, only way I could get lighting good enough to see the screen haha!









http://imgur.com/a/K8x8Y

The first and second pic are continuations of each other.

Let me know if there's something I missed.
 

OneMoar

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sounds like PSU instability to me ...
fill out your specs ....
 
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sounds like PSU instability to me ...
fill out your specs ....

Oops! Done!

Oh also, on the PSU, I suppose it could be. Shouldn't 1000 watts be enough though? I don't know...it's a tad old and bought used so for all I know it could have been folding or mining or something.
 

cadaveca

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So yeah...I know for a fact that mine...or any 5820K...should be able to handle freakin 4.2GHz at 1.31v with 1.9v input.


FIrst, update BIOS if possible.

Second, 5820K is 3.4 GHZ on all cores stock. SO 4.2 GHz...yeah....not all will do that, for sure.

Third, try lowering the cache ratio to 30. ;)


Bad PSU wouldn't make windows take long to load. Sounds like normal stability issues on this platform, to me.
 
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FIrst, update BIOS if possible.

Second, 5820K is 3.4 GHZ on all cores stock. SO 4.2 GHz...yeah....not all will do that, for sure.

Third, try lowering the cache ratio to 30. ;)


Bad PSU wouldn't make windows take long to load. Sounds like normal stability issues on this platform, to me.

Updated to the latest BIOS last night...v1.9. Before doing that it was running v1.6 and was having the same issues then too.

Is 4.2GHz really out of the question with some of these?

Also, even at stock settings in the BIOS I still have the long boot times...starting to suspect this might just be how it is perhaps???
 

cadaveca

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Get a memtestX86 disc/USB and run that and see if it pops up errors.

No, boot times should no be long. I have many X99 boards, 10 seconds from pressing power to hitting desktop on a SATA 6 Gb/s SSD is normal boot time for me.

I'd start by running the memtest on stock, after "loading defaults" in BIOS.

I'm also curious about your cooling.
 
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Get a memtestX86 disc/USB and run that and see if it pops up errors.

No, boot times should no be long. I have many X99 boards, 10 seconds from pressing power to hitting desktop on a SATA 6 Gb/s SSD is normal boot time for me.

I'd start by running the memtest on stock, after "loading defaults" in BIOS.

I'm also curious about your cooling.

I'll try Memtest though I don't think the RAM is the issue as I've never had a BSOD on this system...just hard lock ups or freezing BIOS.

I have the hard drives running in RAID mode due to the dual 500GB's I have in RAID. Could that be the issue?
 

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I'll try Memtest though I don't think the RAM is the issue as I've never had a BSOD on this system...just hard lock ups or freezing BIOS.

I have the hard drives running in RAID mode due to the dual 500GB's I have in RAID. Could that be the issue?
should't be unless the RAID driver is taking ages to load
your SSD is your boot drive correct ?
make sure you are using ACHI and that write-caching is enabled for the SSD but DISABLED for the RAID
last time I tried to use write caching with RAID 0 it resulted in dismal performance but that was on SSD's tho so flip the settings around via the device manger and see what you get .
10 seconds is pretty optimistic especially for a aging vertex drive
 

cadaveca

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I'll try Memtest though I don't think the RAM is the issue as I've never had a BSOD on this system...just hard lock ups or freezing BIOS.

I have the hard drives running in RAID mode due to the dual 500GB's I have in RAID. Could that be the issue?


Just to start at the basics, yes, I'd run memtest to ensure you have that angle covered.

Running RAID will add some time to boot as the controller is initialized, but that would all be prior to the windows "loading circle" appearing.

if memtest passes, then I'd boot into the OS and try SuperPi 32M, then try wPrime and ADIA64 Stability test (both with the top four tests selected, and then with just PFU selected), and if that all passes, then it's on to 3D testing.
 

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Just to start at the basic, yes, I'd run memtest to ensure you have that angle covered.

Running RAID will add some time to boot as the controller is initialized, but that would all be prior to the windows "loading circle" appearing.
he didn't say if it was slow though post or just slow booting to windows
 
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he didn't say if it was slow though post or just slow booting to windows

Ehhh...both...to a degree.

When I turn on my PC it sits doing nothing other than being on for about 4-5 seconds...then keyboard lights up then immediately after the RAID setup pops up then BIOS screen then to Windows which takes a lot longer to boot than previous systems.

Also suspecting RAM or PSU now. Just a while ago my system froze on shutting down and that was with everything at defaults/stocks expect the RAM which was running XMP.

So I guess all I can do is run Memtest overnight and see if anything pops up. Report back tomorrow I suppose.

Would bad RAM cause the BIOS to freeze and all that though?
 

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Ehhh...both...to a degree.

When I turn on my PC it sits doing nothing other than being on for about 4-5 seconds...then keyboard lights up then immediately after the RAID setup pops up then BIOS screen then to Windows which takes a lot longer to boot than previous systems.

Also suspecting RAM or PSU now. Just a while ago my system froze on shutting down and that was with everything at defaults/stocks expect the RAM which was running XMP.

So I guess all I can do is run Memtest overnight and see if anything pops up. Report back tomorrow I suppose.

Would bad RAM cause the BIOS to freeze and all that though?
sounding more and more like a hardware fault
double check your cooler mounting and make sure its not overly tight (which should be impossible with a H70) but I would check and make sure the screws aren't torqued vastly different
 

cadaveca

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Ehhh...both...to a degree.

When I turn on my PC it sits doing nothing other than being on for about 4-5 seconds...then keyboard lights up then immediately after the RAID setup pops up then BIOS screen then to Windows which takes a lot longer to boot than previous systems.

Also suspecting RAM or PSU now. Just a while ago my system froze on shutting down and that was with everything at defaults/stocks expect the RAM which was running XMP.

So I guess all I can do is run Memtest overnight and see if anything pops up. Report back tomorrow I suppose.

Would bad RAM cause the BIOS to freeze and all that though?
IT could, as if it is unstable, this can affect onboard devices and memory training.


And honestly...oi... H70 for cooling? Yikes. 4.2 on Haswell-E. NOPE. Big fat NOPE.
 
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Recently upgraded to a 5820K, Asrock X99M Killer, and 2x4GB Crucial Sport DDR4-2400 RAM.

Problem I'm having is that no matter the voltage I can't seem to get my system stable and just having weird issues over all.

For instance, I have about a 90% failure rate on manually overclocking (won't even get past BIOS start up let alone Windows) but if I load a predefined OC profile the computer boots up just fine.

So I think, "OK I'll just use a profile then!". The 4.4GHz profile (with 1.31v and 1.9v input) worked fine all last night, no problems. I gamed, ran Prime95 for an hour, watched videos with Chrome and about 10 other tabs, etc. Seems to be solid! I go to shut down the computer and it freezes on the shut down screen. Not as solid as I thought?

So I get up this morning, reboot, and these settings don't seem to work anymore...I get the same problems as I do when I manually try to OC.

So I get into the BIOS, load the 4.4GHz profile again but lower the multiplier to 4.2GHz. I think that everything being higher than needed for 4.2GHz that this must work, right?

Again, PC runs fine. All day today. Playing GTA 5, game crashes, click on "End Program"...bam...frozen. Reboot the PC...same problem as before.

So yeah...I know for a fact that mine...or any 5820K...should be able to handle freakin 4.2GHz at 1.31v with 1.9v input.

What's the deal here? Am I missing some setting? Anyone else have a similar setup? It's pretty aggravating.

Also, Windows takes, like, forever to load now. I'd swear it's running off of a 5400RPM hard drive or something. Where on my Z77 system it would be done before the logo could even form now it sits there...loading...for at least a good 8-10 seconds or so.

Anyways, thoughts?

Hey mate, sorry to hear you're having issues. My first 5960X would not overclock at all, no matter how much much voltage I pumped through it. I returned it and voilĂ , happy overclocking goodness ensued with number 2.

I'm thinking you have a bad overclocker there. Try running it at 4 GHz and see if you still have the instability issues. Just the "silicon lottery" as they say.
 
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Yeah, this is just getting weird. Just shut her off to check tightness of the mount as it's an older H70 and isn't native 2011. I got it working as I had proper length screws that worked. I didn't put it on very tight to begin with (not new to this stuff guys!) but, just to be sure.

So I start up the computer and all I'm met with is a black screen with a blinking "_" in the top left corner. Just sitting there. Restart the computer and it boots up normally.

Now, my question is...why would it do that? If nothing was changed or anything like that why would it boot to a blank screen and a under score for no reason then boot up fine upon restart? Could that be RAM related?

If the RAM is the problem why no BSOD? Every RAM issue I've ever had in the past always resulted in those at some point.

Hmm...
 

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Yeah, this is just getting weird. Just shut her off to check tightness of the mount as it's an older H70 and isn't native 2011. I got it working as I had proper length screws that worked. I didn't put it on very tight to begin with (not new to this stuff guys!) but, just to be sure.

So I start up the computer and all I'm met with is a black screen with a blinking "_" in the top left corner. Just sitting there. Restart the computer and it boots up normally.

Now, my question is...why would it do that? If nothing was changed or anything like that why would it boot to a blank screen and a under score for no reason then boot up fine upon restart? Could that be RAM related?

If the RAM is the problem why no BSOD? Every RAM issue I've ever had in the past always resulted in those at some point.

Hmm...
if fiddling with the mount changed something then you either have to much or too little pressure on the socket could very likely be the problem
I would pull the cpu inspect the socket and re-install the cooler taking care too evenly tighten the screws down but not to tight a 1/2 turn pasted "snug" is usually sufficient
over-tight is worse then not tight enough
 
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if fiddling with the mount changed something then you either have to much or too little pressure on the socket the incorrect mounting screws could very likely be the problem
I would pull the cpu inspect the stock and re-install the cooler taking care to evenly tighten the screws down but not to tight a 1/2 turn pasted "snug" is usually sufficient

Perhaps...it's about right now though. No tighter than any other AIO I've used. I mean, I could be wrong but it's certainly not excessive and the temps are well within safety limits. Running Prime95 now at stock and seeing mid 60's.

So it being too loose and/or hot isn't the cause...neither is being too tight.

Speaking of which though, does anyone have a 2011 mounting kit for these round coolers? Wouldn't mind an actual 2011 kit regardless.

So yeah...at this point I'm at a loss...could it be a possible motherboard issue? Might better explain the sometimes locked up posts?
 

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Perhaps...it's about right now though. No tighter than any other AIO I've used. I mean, I could be wrong but it's certainly not excessive and the temps are well within safety limits. Running Prime95 now at stock and seeing mid 60's.

So it being too loose and/or hot isn't the cause...neither is being too tight.

Speaking of which though, does anyone have a 2011 mounting kit for these round coolers? Wouldn't mind an actual 2011 kit regardless.

So yeah...at this point I'm at a loss...could it be a possible motherboard issue? Might better explain the sometimes locked up posts?
its not about temps intel engineers there sockets with a certain amount of pressure too much WILL cause issues it will cause everything from no post to ram not working to pcie slots not working and random instability
there is a reason the proper LGA2011 kit comes with the correct length screws and spacers/shims
take a one or half of a turn out of the screws and re-test if it gets worse go tighter
 
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its not about temps intel engineers there sockets with a certain amount of pressure too much WILL cause issues it will cause everything from no post to ram not working to pcie slots not working and random instability
there is a reason the proper LGA2011 kit comes with the correct length screws and spacers/shims
take a half of turn out of the screws and re-test if it gets worse go tighter

I think I'm going to just try and find a 2011 mounting kit for these Asetek coolers and get it done right.

If anyone has one let me know!
 

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if any of the above makes a a difference but you can't pin it down then its a good bet that the board may be defective
 
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if any of the above makes a a difference but you can't pin it down then its a good bet that the board may be defective

Yeah I'm going to test everything that I can. Give the RAM a good run through tonight in Memtest and get a proper 2011 kit.

I did buy the board used through a reputable member who said his 5960X overclocked mighty fine on it but who knows what happens during shipping and handling, etc.
 

OneMoar

There is Always Moar
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Yeah I'm going to test everything that I can. Give the RAM a good run through tonight in Memtest and get a proper 2011 kit.

I did buy the board used through a reputable member who said his 5960X overclocked mighty fine on it but who knows what happens during shipping and handling, etc.
running a memtest is not gonna do you any good until you eliminate the socket as possible cause
pull the cpu inspect the pins and try again ...
 
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For 5820K 4.2GHz should be a walk in the park. With two of the eight cores disabled and only 28 PCI-E lanes you should have better OC headroom when comparing with 5930K or 5960X.

First thing I would check is make sure you are having OK CPU temp. You need to keep those Haswell-E chips below 80C for long term stability.

Second thing is check to make sure the RAM you have is approved by your MoBo manufacture. There should be a QVL for the RAM.

If you have good temp and the RAM checks out then there is a very high chance your 5820K is just one of those stinkers. You can always sell it and grab one from "Silicon Lottery" It is a small company that bin through tens of hundreds of CPUs to make sure what you get will be a champ overclocker.


My current 5820K handles 4.2GHz on air with only 1.2V vCore. I can reach 4.8GHz with around 1.36V vCore but the temp will be too high for air cooling.
 

OneMoar

There is Always Moar
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
8,740 (1.72/day)
Location
Rochester area
System Name RPC MK2.5
Processor Ryzen 5800x
Motherboard Gigabyte Aorus Pro V2
Cooling Enermax ETX-T50RGB
Memory CL16 BL2K16G36C16U4RL 3600 1:1 micron e-die
Video Card(s) GIGABYTE RTX 3070 Ti GAMING OC
Storage ADATA SX8200PRO NVME 512GB, Intel 545s 500GBSSD, ADATA SU800 SSD, 3TB Spinner
Display(s) LG Ultra Gear 32 1440p 165hz Dell 1440p 75hz
Case Phanteks P300 /w 300A front panel conversion
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply SeaSonic Focus+ Platinum 750W
Mouse Kone burst Pro
Keyboard EVGA Z15
Software Windows 11 +startisallback
For 5820K 4.2GHz should be a walk in the park. With two of the eight cores disabled and only 28 PCI-E lanes you should have better OC headroom when comparing with 5930K or 5960X.

First thing I would check is make sure you are having OK CPU temp. You need to keep those Haswell-E chips below 80C for long term stability.

Second thing is check to make sure the RAM you have is approved by your MoBo manufacture. There should be a QVL for the RAM.

If you have good temp and the RAM checks out then there is a very high chance your 5820K is just one of those stinkers. You can always sell it and grab one from "Silicon Lottery" It is a small company that bin through tens of hundreds of CPUs to make sure what you get will be a champ overclocker.


My current 5820K handles 4.2GHz on air with only 1.2V vCore. I can reach 4.8GHz with around 1.36V vCore but the temp will be too high for air cooling.
please read the thread before replying ...
 
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