Looking for a program to test my PSU

[devguy]

So, after reading this thread, I think I may have issues in this department. I did as suggested to Juggernatz and I arrived at these results. The lower value is load, the higher one is idle.

I've long suspected that my limited overclock on my Venice is due to the psu. Is this any indication of such a thing?

 

[Tatty_Two]

So, after reading this thread, I think I may have issues in this department. I did as suggested to Juggernatz and I arrived at these results. The lower value is load, the higher one is idle.

I've long suspected that my limited overclock on my Venice is due to the psu. Is this any indication of such a thing?

From looking at your screenies, yes I would say it's your PSU, that 12V rating at load is dipping to low, despite the fact that you have a high wattage PSU forgive me for saying it but it's a cheapo, so is quite likely to be unstable, inefficient and low amperage, I would suggest a decent quality 500W dual rail would be more than enough for your rig and at that wattage can be had for nice prices at the moment if you shop around.

 

[devguy]

From looking at your screenies, yes I would say it's your PSU, that 12V rating at load is dipping to low, despite the fact that you have a high wattage PSU forgive me for saying it but it's a cheapo, so is quite likely to be unstable, inefficient and low amperage, I would suggest a decent quality 500W dual rail would be more than enough for your rig and at that wattage can be had for nice prices at the moment if you shop around.

I won't deny it's a cheapo (I got it for about $30 for a local computer store). It is rated for 19amps max on the 12V, so I thought it might be enough for my pc, but I suppose I was wrong.

This is the psu I've had my eye on: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817128006
Man, modular cables would make such a difference here in my matx case.

PS, sorry if I hijacked this thread...

 

[Tatty_Two]

I won't deny it's a cheapo (I got it for about $30 for a local computer store). It is rated for 19amps max on the 12V, so I thought it might be enough for my pc, but I suppose I was wrong.

This is the psu I've had my eye on: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817128006
Man, modular cables would make such a difference here in my matx case.

PS, sorry if I hijacked this thread...

Only 19A with that wattage rating, no thats definatly the answer then, my graphics card draws more than that on its own at full load.

 

[Tatty_Two]

Thats a decent PSU...mid > mid high range, if you can do without the modular you can get for the same price an Enermax Noistaker, one of the best out there, check the rail amperage and efficiency ratings between the 2, either will do you fine, if you insist on the modular cabling then go for the Hyper but the Enermax is the better PSU IMO.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103457

 

[devguy]

Actually, I just came across this psu. Now I know that it isn't the best quality out there, but it should be a nice step up from what I have and it is very reasonably priced:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2974503&body=REVIEWS

Edit: unless this is better for the extra $20: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2974488&CatId=106

 

[JUGGERNUTZ]

I won't deny it's a cheapo (I got it for about $30 for a local computer store). It is rated for 19amps max on the 12V, so I thought it might be enough for my pc, but I suppose I was wrong.

This is the psu I've had my eye on: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817128006
Man, modular cables would make such a difference here in my matx case.

PS, sorry if I hijacked this thread...

no worries man, this thread is here for anyone who is haveing simular PSU problems.

 

[JUGGERNUTZ]

Fluctuation isn't a problem until around 11.5v on a high stress system so its definatly fine.

A struggling PSU will give you BSOD's and restarts, not flickers.

What "stuttering"?

Like pause......... play........ pause.... play?


Thats either heat or GPU drivers. Most likely GPU heat. Some Ti4200's did this with >42.xx detonators.

the pause...play...pause...play is exactly what it is doing. but it is doing this very fast.. as if a cd was skipping...
as far as heat or GPU drivers, when the flickering/studdering first started i was useing two bfg 7950 gt oc runing sli.. i had after market fans (ZEROtherm GX815 gamer edition VGA cooler) an awsome cooler. i would recomend this to anyone who wants serious cooling, but you need good air movement in your case. this fan droped my temp by 20deg.c. it works manly for geforce 7 series cards..back to the topic..
so heat wasnt an issue. the drivers for the 7950 gt is differant then my new 8800 gtx oc2 and the 8800 runs around 60 deg c. idle and gets to about a range of 70 to 80 deg c. under load which is normal and i have the stock fan on it... i agree now that all these test i have benn doing and ruleing out my hardwear.. must be a driver issue, or so softwear...

 

[Tatty_Two]

Actually, I just came across this psu. Now I know that it isn't the best quality out there, but it should be a nice step up from what I have and it is very reasonably priced:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2974503&body=REVIEWS

Edit: unless this is better for the extra $20: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2974488&CatId=106

Either way, check the amperage and efficiency rating, if they are the same, go for the cheapest, most good quality PSU's will give you an 80% efficiency rating but 70% is fine for the kit you have.

 

[Richieb0y]

lol mine never goose up 4,50v on the +12v rail

 

[largon]

Only 19A with that wattage rating, no thats definatly the answer then, my graphics card draws more than that on its own at full load.

Since when does 8800GTS draw 240W+?

 

[Tatty_Two]

Since when does 8800GTS draw 240W+?

Since it has been pencil modded and does 735 on the core and 2250 on the memory....at full load. The heat on stock cooling kind of scared me so I didnt take it any further although I briefly tried it at 750Mhz core on ATi artifact scanner without artifacts!

 

[largon]

You wouldn't happen to have read the amperage from ATiTool have you?
If yes, you're reading the draw @ vGPU (1.?V), not 12V.

 

[W1zzard]

please dont trust internal sensors for anythign like that. they can be horribly inaccurate and also may be completely wrong if speedfan doesn't 100% support that motherboard. get a cheap digital multimeter and measure it with that.
also small voltage dips like in this thread do not affect your stability, neither does a voltage of 11.5 or even 11.0 volts.

remove all components from the system except the ones you are testing. if the problem goes away it may be the psu or one of the components you removed.

if it stays it is certainly NOT your psu because you lowered the power draw considerably, yet the problem isn't gone.

to the person having lags during rendering, tried reinstalling windows yet? go ask a friend if you could try your system with their psu quick.

and to all the people coming here via google: if you have unexpected crashes suspect your psu last, remove overclock first, slow down memory big time, change memory modules, reinstall windows, open case, add ventilation, change components one by one (psu last).

 

[Tatty_Two]

No was not relying on Ati tool or other software, was relying on my next door neighbour who is an electronics tech, he just brought his little box of tricks in......mainly because I was concerned if my thermaltake Drivebay PSU could handle the draw (250W....300W peak @ 24A), he tested it for me when I got the card with the card runnibng at stock but when I tried the mod I had a number of issues which I thought may be related to power draw so he was kind enough to pop round and test again, I dont know what he used as I am not a teccie but he had 3 or 4 devices he was playing with and using the piccies and instructions I had printed off to do the mod as reference, I can only assume that his findings were at least reasonably accurate.

As a sidenote...he has now offered to do the hardmod for me so thats a bonus!

 

[largon]

Your techie friend measured the total consumption of your system, not the GTS alone.

 

[Beertintedgoggles]

The friend could have measured the current/power draw of the extra power connectors going to the card if he used a current clamp. It's a simple device, just clamp it over the +12V wire going from the PSU to the card right at the connector. It won't give you the total consumption unless your motherboard can also tell you how much power it is giving the card through the PCIe slot (I know the specs for max. power deliverable through the PCIe slots but most motherboards vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and even between different models).

 

[largon]

Beertintedgoggles,
Yes, he could had done it the way you described but the value Tatty One quoted is literally impossible for any graphics card leave alone a GTS which peaks at less than 110W in 3D at stock. OC'ing can bump it +30W at max.

 

[Beertintedgoggles]

Beertintedgoggles,
Yes, he could had done it the way you described but the value Tatty One quoted is literally impossible for any graphics card leave alone a GTS which peaks at less than 110W in 3D at stock. OC'ing can bump it +30W at max.

I'm just throwing out a way that someone could go about measuring the power and current draw of their vid card: measure the current draw of the extra connectors then add roughly 75W (40W for an AGP card) and there's your answer. Not the most accurate since you'll be approximating what your motherboard can give to the card through the PCIe slot, but it's a ballpark figure at least. As far as any real or fictional numbers people want to claim regarding what their system, vid card, etc. draws, I tend to let people believe what they want.

 

[Tatty_Two]

I hear what you guys are saying but there is no way that could be the total wattage consumption for the whole system....look at my specs, if my whole system with a CPU overclock of 1.45Gig, and big overclock on the Gfx, 2 HDD's, 2 Opticals, a floppy etc etc only draws that little (210W I think you said), well I'll eat my avitar!

Looking at it your right tho, seems too much for the gfx alone, will check with him to see what he did.

 

[JUGGERNUTZ]

please dont trust internal sensors for anythign like that. they can be horribly inaccurate and also may be completely wrong if speedfan doesn't 100% support that motherboard. get a cheap digital multimeter and measure it with that.
also small voltage dips like in this thread do not affect your stability, neither does a voltage of 11.5 or even 11.0 volts.

remove all components from the system except the ones you are testing. if the problem goes away it may be the psu or one of the components you removed.

if it stays it is certainly NOT your psu because you lowered the power draw considerably, yet the problem isn't gone.

to the person having lags during rendering, tried reinstalling windows yet? go ask a friend if you could try your system with their psu quick.

and to all the people coming here via google: if you have unexpected crashes suspect your psu last, remove overclock first, slow down memory big time, change memory modules, reinstall windows, open case, add ventilation, change components one by one (psu last).

to ADMIN. i have uninstalled windows a couple of times... and as far as testing with another PSU that would have been a great idea, i wish that i heard this a few weeks ago...

BUT I HAVE NEW NEWS... the antec truepower trio PSU that i am useing is i think the source of my flickering/studdering. i dont know how but i just started haveing failuers with some key features..( it comes with two fan only 4 pin connectors, died. and as of yesturday the main cooling fan on the PSU stopped spinning, dead) i think DEFECT.. i called antc and talked to a tech, they are going to RMA me a new one... i think that this is the source of my problems because this is the only piece of hardwear to actully have some kind of failure or defect.. i have high hopes that this is the problem...i am getting a new PSU ( Thermaltake toughpower W0117RU ATX12V / EPS12V 750W Power Supply ) that should be a nice addition to my system.. ill let everyone know if this fixes my problem.. thanks for all the advice guys.

 

[kwchang007]

get a cheap digital multimeter and measure it with that.

how do you use a multimeter to measure the voltage (i sound like an idiot right now probably). would you just connect it to a 12 v line while the computer is under load and see how much the voltage fluctuates?

 

[russianboy]

Stick the leads into the yellow and black wire @ the 4 pin connector.

Run some apps and watch it fluctuate, anything below 11.5 your hardware may act funny, It is rare, but I have seen very picky hardware that are not tolerant to voltages like that.

 

[Dippyskoodlez]

how do you use a multimeter to measure the voltage (i sound like an idiot right now probably). would you just connect it to a 12 v line while the computer is under load and see how much the voltage fluctuates?

Red in the 12v,5v, or 3.3v line, black wire into the GND.

You can connect any 2 points, I normally just grab a molex ground and start poking around

 

[James1991]

The Geforce 8800 GTX requires a 800W PSU minimum