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Looking to Liquid Cool My System, Need Some Advice

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Chryonn, Jul 16, 2009.

  1. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    hello TPU'ers! i've been thinking about cooling my rig for a while now and i have a few questions. i've bookmarked the !naturally aspired water cooling club" thread and made note of what would be best for my system, however i feel it's a little out of date and i need some reassurances from the community.

    so first off, i have a QX6800 2.93GHz on stock air, and my eye caught sight of the D-Tek Fuzion v2 which some have said is the best for CPUs. from community experience, is this the best one for a quaddie like mine? ( i know i'll need the insert too)

    also i've seen the radiator Thermochill PA120.3 and since i'd be cooling both CPU and GPU (a GTX280) i think i'd need a big rad. after seeing CyberDruid's modification for mounting the rad on the back of his latest worklog i'm newly encouraged to fit one on the back of my Antec P180 using metal rods as i need a bigger clearance due to display adaptors.

    as for the pump i've been looking the Swiftech MCP655. i can fit this in the lower chamber of my case with some modding.

    Yate Loon fans D125H-12 x 3 or 6

    the rest of the loop is just details, but the important parts are what i've outlined above.
    are they good choices for the hardware i have or are there more up to date equipment that i can invest in?
    your input, as always, is much appreciated.
     
  2. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    friendly bump
     
  3. MRCL

    MRCL

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    Get a XSPC Laing reservoir, you can stack that directly on top of that Swiftie pump. Have you thought about tubing size already? Also, A block that would also be recommendable is the HeatKiller Rev3 block, great piece of copper.
     
  4. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    i think i'd go for the 1/2" ID tubing. ok i'll have a look at the block you've recommended. thanks
     
  5. MRCL

    MRCL

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    Be aware that with 1/2 tubing, you can't put fittings on the block that feature lock nuts, as the inlet and outlet are too close together. With normal tulles, it should work tho.
     
  6. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    +1 on the CPU block, Radiator, and Pump. Scythe Ultra Kaze's are pretty good fans too as well as the Koolance 2400RPM ones. For the res, I suggest whatever you have room for to mount in your case. Swiftech Micro Res' are pretty good or if you prefer the inline ones.
     
  7. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    yeah, i realised this. i am thinking i could use those jubilee clips - the ones which tighten when you turn the head with a screwdriver.
    also MRCL, you say i can put a XSPC Laing reservoir on top of the pump i've chosen? i think you mean a DDC pump not a D5.
    bogmali, thanks for the suggestions
     
  8. MRCL

    MRCL

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    Damn I was unconcentrated. Thought the 655 was also a DDC... sorry. If you like cylindrical reservoirs, the EK ones are of pretty good quality.
     
  9. Bjorn_Of_Iceland

    Bjorn_Of_Iceland

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    You may also want to look at Swiftech GTZ as an option. It has almost the same flow rate as a DTEK v2 with a quad nozzle so its not as constricting as a heatkiller or Koolance. Superb mounting system which gives equal mount everytime. Nozzle distance that gives you options for different barb size or tubes since they are far apart, and best of all about averaging of 2 degree better than a Quad Nozzled Dtek V2 without added nozzle kits or whatsoever.
    [​IMG]

    And for a bit of future proofing, you can upgrade to an i7 with it performing the same. Unlike a DTEK V2 which performs bad on an i7 (source: http://vapor.skinneelabs.com/i7/Round1/Round1i7.html])

    Its a flow lover, so that 1/2 id tubes will really work great with it.

    Your pump and rad is good enough. TC 120.3 really is good and can dissipate heat really good with low restriction. Which gives you the option for adding more components in a single loop. Im also using 120.3. I was cooling only the CPU in the beginning. Then I added the GPU later on, and noticed that the CPU temps didnt even budge. Then I added, SB, NB, and the fets, and surprisingly, CPU temps still was the same on load and idle!
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2009
    3dsage and Chryonn say thanks.
  10. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    does the GTZ require an insert like the D-Tek for quadcores?
    this seems the better option, as i did read that fitting large diam tubing is a pain for the DTek
     
  11. 3dsage

    3dsage New Member

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    I have an Apogee GT which performs slightly similiar to a GTZ, on a dual Rad loop (2x120mm-2x80mm Black ICE Rads) cooling my X3220. Which is a Q6600 in a Xeon mask.

    It keeps it nice and cool with 1.55V @ 3.6GHZ 24/7. My temps never load above 60C and this is during the summer time with a "B3" stepping Quad.

    Its a great block you might want to consider the GTZ.
     
  12. Bjorn_Of_Iceland

    Bjorn_Of_Iceland

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    Nope. no inserts needed. its designed to cool quads naturally right out of the box. less pain in the arse. But if you want the best temperatures possible, id say go for a Koolance CPU-350 or a Heatkiller CPU block coupled with a GTX 360 / 480 with 3k rpm fans. The noise is bearable, but the temps would be great. Would kill your pressure a little bit though.. so im not sure if youl still get ample pressure if added more blocks to the loop.

    GTZ + TC 120.3 combo is good for multiblock options. Just dont forget to get that reducer or 3/8 threaded barb for the inlets of the TC rad
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2009
  13. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    yes. i want to cool both CPU and graphics card but nothing else.
     
  14. air_ii

    air_ii

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    That is really subjective. For me everything above 1500 RPM is unbearable. I'd go with Feser 480 or TC (note that according to some sources at XS a 3x140mm version is coming out soon) and medium RPM fans.
     
  15. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    this is a topic i've repeatedly thought about at length: the "noise to cooling effectiveness ratio."
    the bottom line is i want my PC to be cool (an obvious statement, somewhat).
     
  16. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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    I mean you can make it dynamic by using a fan controller... so that if it starts heating up, then the fans kick in at 2k or so, but when you're typing your word document, its dead silent.
     
  17. Chryonn

    Chryonn

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    so i need a separate fan controller that's tied to the fans on the rad?
     
  18. Binge

    Binge Overclocking Surrealism

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    You don't need one, but water cooling is all about preference. None of it is necessary unless you can't drive in anything less than a Lexus if you catch my meaning.

    I just put up a thread about my successful loop. A few things you'll notice is that I use aftermarket pump tops, great water cooling blocks, and most importantly a radiator with a lot of surface area. The more area the better. Good luck with your loop.
     
    phanbuey says thanks.
  19. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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    like binge said - you don't NEED one it can be $60+ for the right combo of temo sensor and fan controller (lian li makes a good one) so it is expensive... but I would have one tied to a waterloop temp sensor so that the system keeps the water below a certain point. i.e. if water goes above 25 C the fans kick in at 60%, if it goes 27C 75% above 28C 100% - something like that so that your tdelta never rises above a certain level.

    i personally like
    http://www.sundialmicro.com/lLian_li_thermal_controller_tr5b_1857_1475.html

    but some people like ones with more amps.

    you pay $60 but that is nothing in the world of computer enthusiasts - $60 for a rig which is silent when not loaded and cold when it is - really the best of both worlds.
     

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