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My First Adventure in H2O Cooling

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by bogmali, Jun 9, 2009.

  1. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    Never done this before so between checking here (periodically) and other sites, I should be able to get some great advice and/or suggestions. REMEMBER, I'm a complete NOOB about this so please take it easy on me:D

    NOTE: I will be using this stuff on my next i7 build (920):D

    Here are the parts that I have ATM:

    H2O_1.JPG

    H2O_2.JPG

    H2O_3.JPG

    H2O_4.JPG

    H2O_5.JPG

    H2O_6.JPG

    H2O_7.JPG

    Obviously I cannot use that GTZ block since it is for an LGA775.

    Questions:

    1. Since I have a DD rad, will it be beneficial to also get a DD cpu block?

    2. I heard about matching copper on cooper/aluminum on aluminum when it comes to cpu block and rad materials, should I stick to this theory?

    3. Any suggestions? Am I missing any parts? Thank you so much in advance;)
     
  2. Duxx Guest

    Maybe some tubing? :p hahah Looking forward to this man! I want to venture over this summer... if only the the funding...
     
  3. DarkEgo

    DarkEgo

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    bogmali says thanks.
  4. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    I got the tubing from the person that I bought the stuff from but they're not worth taking pictures off:banghead:
     
  5. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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    1) NO... get a heatkiller, Enzotech Luna, or EK supreme Waterblocks, matching blocks to rads has no effect. Although mounting hardware is not a bad idea since that is a decent block.

    2) get copper/copper, otherwise they will corrode over time

    3) Make sure the rad is getting FRESH air... no mounting it as an exhaust/on top of the case venting out... the fresher the air, the colder the temp. Pull (fan pulling air through the rad) is better than push if you are running at less than 1500RPM, for silent setups, pull is better. For performance (loud setups) push is better.
     
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  6. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    This paragraph right here just made my head hurt. This will have to have some pics involved:banghead:
     
  7. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    You're going to want at least 8" of tubing, distilled water and buy some PT nuke. It's a biocide to keep your loop clean. I think the GTZ with 1333 mounting will work just fine, but I prefer EK or heatkiller 3 blocks. I'm running the EK Supreme LT acetal block. Excellent block, and very reasonably priced. There is no benefit at all to a DD block. Oh, you'll also need another fan for your rad. I prefer setting up my WC on my open bench rigs. It's so much easier than trying to cram it in to a case.
     
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  8. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    I forgot to say that I am going to mount this on a Silverstone TJ09 case (and that's why Phanbuey made my head hurt with his advice).
     
  9. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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  10. Fitseries3

    Fitseries3 Eleet Hardware Junkie

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    gtz is a POS for i7. throw it out the window as fast as you can.

    get a heatkiller 3 or enzotech saphire or ek supreme/supreme lt.

    i7 needs A LOT of rad. more is better. i found that a 120.3 rad is good for typical users.

    you'll want a decent thick rad though, like feser, thermochill, hw labs gen2 gtx, or xspc rx series.

    if you use a hw labs rad you need high cfm fans with high static pressure. typically those fans are 120mm x 38mm and are kinda loud. anything less and you'll be dissapointed in temps... on a hw labs rad.

    yate loons and any fan under 80cfm suck major balls on any rad. get good quality fans that have 80+ cfm for rads. nothing less.

    for a pump you either go with the D5/mcp655(if you have room) or the DDC/mcp350/355 if space is limited. both pumps perform similar and will power any loop a normal person would have. you need to get a replacement top for the ddc/mcp350/355 if you get one that has the stock top so keep that in mind.

    for tubing i highly reccomend getting masterclear 7/16" as it has the best of all qualities. its easy to work with, flexible yet still rigid, you dont need hose clamps. tygon is too damn expensive and its not needed in pc cooling. clearflex 60 is nice but hard to find. colored tubing like DD and feser have is good but dont get primochill, its total shit.

    dont use dyes. if you must get colored fluid get feser 1L bottles of premixed. dyes cause gunky gell to build up in your loop causing it to fail.

    did i forget anything?

    barbs!

    use these...... i swear they are great....

    http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadepofbofig.html

    buy all your stuff from petra's tech shop or sidewinders and tell them Fitseries3 sent you.
     
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  11. Assassin48 New Member

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    do we get a discount for saying your name?
     
  12. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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    another option on HWlabs rads is a push pull, which works well and is a bit quieter than an 80CFM fan.

    What kind of temps are you shooting for... are we talking 65C or 50C? You want quiet or performance?
     
  13. Fitseries3

    Fitseries3 Eleet Hardware Junkie

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    in my experience pull is best. if you have room for push pull then fine... go ahead.
     
  14. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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  15. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks good, except for a couple of things. He already has a pump. I have the same one, and it works well. He also has a 240mm rad. Not sure of the brand though. I have a xspc RX240, and it seems to keep the temps pretty low, but I'm only cooling the cpu. Not too say a 360 wouldn't be better, but not necessary needed for good temps.
     
  16. Fitseries3

    Fitseries3 Eleet Hardware Junkie

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    im using a pa120.2 which is same as the rx240 and it cannot keep the i7 at likeable temps with 2 110cfm scythes on it.
     
  17. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    So basically all the parts that I have currently have are not good for a Core i7 eh? Why are you doing this to me Fit? I bought some of your stuff before:wtf:

    You know I'm only kidding El Capitan:laugh:
     
  18. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    Paul-the rad is a DD Black Ice extreme II seen here
     
  19. phanbuey

    phanbuey

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    Im sure the stuff you got can keep that sucker under 65C at 4Ghz if you mount everything correctly and don't leave your puter out in the texas heat :p.

    Then again i dont own an i7.
     
  20. Fitseries3

    Fitseries3 Eleet Hardware Junkie

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    dont use anything aluminum in your loop. its total shit for watercooling because it will corrode if copper is in the loop as well.

    you need some scythe ultra kazes for that rad.
     
  21. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm keeping my temps below 70c full load on Linx at 4.0ghz, without air conditioning 25c ambient. I'm happy with that. I suggest you use what you have for practice. If you're not happy with temps, then buy a new rad.
     
  22. Fitseries3

    Fitseries3 Eleet Hardware Junkie

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    i did... lol... i added a pa120.1 to the loop. so basically i have a pa120.3 now
     
  23. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm kinda leaning towards that since I am on a trial and error phase ATM and will eventually upgrade based on Fits' suggestions when I get the hang of it;)
     
  24. Paulieg

    Paulieg The Mad Moderator Staff Member

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    The rad will be the first thing to replace. Certainly before the block. It has the greatest impact on your temps.
     
  25. bogmali

    bogmali Moderator Staff Member

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    I'm shopping right now a Petra's for the GTZ 1366 adaptor and some fans, awaiting Fit's response via PM:D
     

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