CPU Waterblock D'Tek Fuzion V2 Pump Laing D5 Vario/Swiftech MCP655 Radiator Swiftech MCR220-QP Res Fittings Bitspower True Silver G1/4 High Flow 1/2" Barb - BP-SLWP-C01 Tubing 1/2in. ID (3/4in. OD) Feser Flexible PVC Tubing - UV Blue Clamps Spring Clamps - See photos below Fan(s) YATE LOON 120mm Case Fan - D12SM-124B - UV Blue Frame with 4 Blue leds - Medium Speed (in case, pushing air out) Xigmatek 120MM (on radiator bottom) Lian-Li 120MM (on radiator top) Accessories Radbox Silver kill coil - iandh (Microbial action, kill algae / germs, no need for hydrx) Arctic Cooling MX-2 (My first time using it, hope its good) The Lancool PC-K62 (Poor Man's Lian-Li) has these rubber grommets below the 120MM Fan that are already perforated for H20 cooling. However, they restrict your tubing badly unless you cut out the rubber inside of the grommet, like shown in this photo. You can use a box cutter or razor blade for this job. I used a box cutter to cut my grommets out. This is the spring clamp tool we are working with using these spring clamps. Koolance makes spring clamp style clamps but my good bro Charles got these from an auto website online in bulk - They're the same thing Koolance would sell you. Here is where I'm at visually with the case now - Lot's of cables are still going to be tidied and moved around. For some reason the UV cold cathode I was using is now only lighting up partially. It lights up about a 1/4'' of the stick on both - I wonder if I messed it up or made a stupid somewhere? I'm pretty certain I've got it hooked up securely, I don't know what could cause this?