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After some waiting, you will see! :laugh:

Not to mention the small loss in thermals when using coloured fluid. If that matters to you...

For a CPU only loop, in a STD case, 5ft of tubing should be more than enough. 10Ft of tubing will usually last me a re-do or 2.

780 definitely doesnt need water. At its maximum overclock I cant get the thing past 70 degrees on full benchmark load. And its a stock cooler.
 
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But does it throttle?
 
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But does it throttle?

Nope. Only throttles when it hits 85, which it doesnt. Custom fan profiles and proper case setups help temps a great deal.

Also, from a Mayhem Rep:

"There is a difference between Dyes or Coolants. Coolants do contain dyes but they all so contain either glycol of vegetable extracts. Some glycol in the past may have had problems how ever the world have moved on so have the evolution is liquids.

Buid up is mainly caused by plasticizers in tubing ad this in turn then get dyed but the dyes (as that what dye does). To the normal every day user who doesn't know any better they will think the root cause of the problem is the dye but unbeknown to them its not the actual problem but there narrow mindedness makes them believe this.

The only thing dyes really do is stain but that normal... So if you would like to aviod any type of staining at all then do not use dye. if you fancy pretty colors in you system then dyes are the way to go.

If you would like to avoid the main issue of build up then avoid crappy flexible tubing that was intended to be used on gas and not water. "
 
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ok i may have to wait for the other stuff, ive just added a bunch of nice looking stuff to my basket and it come up to £100+

fittings
hose
biocide
res
fans

i see what ya mean by being addictive............
 
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ok i may have to wait for the other stuff, ive just added a bunch of nice looking stuff to my basket and it come up to £100+

fittings
hose
biocide
res
fans

i see what ya mean by being addictive............

So you bought that stuff plus the whole kit from OCUK? You may as well have bought the items seperately.
 
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nah i bought the kit and need to get those things..... ive just spent £140+ so will wait till tomorrow or another day for the rest lol

the rest im getting from watercoolinguk - that list basically


UPDATE: email saying its been shipped!

WOOP! - I may put it all together before the other stuff or just play around with ice and benches lol
 
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D

Deleted member 24505

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Enjoy getting your feet wet, so to speak d1nky. I've had some fun in the past water cooling, check out my gallery rigs in my sig.
 

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Unless you want to water-cool your graphics card (Witch voids the warranty) then I would suggest something like this,
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23&products_id=22307
instead of a full water cooling system. The fact that its self contained means you really don't have any issues with warranty voids due to water damage, and its also a hell of a lot easier to install.

Also the Corsair water-coolers are close on silent, and draw minimal power.

water cooling gpus do not void your warranty unless you damage the card and the vendor finds out it's from water cooling or if that vendor does not support removal of the cooler. but if you do have issues just throw the stock cooler back on and send it in.
 
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watercooling gpus is expensive plus i can oc the shit out of mine with 1350v and its barely passed 60*c with a decent fan curve - benches

gaming stock - no noise and below 60*c

I cant wait for this loop now lol
 
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You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.
 
D

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You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.

I think that's possibly better depending on the card and block, I ran a full cover on a 4850 which was expensive, changed the card and the block sat in a drawer for 2 or 3 years till i threw it away.
 
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Also, from a Mayhem Rep:

"There is a difference between Dyes or Coolants. Coolants do contain dyes but they all so contain either glycol of vegetable extracts. Some glycol in the past may have had problems how ever the world have moved on so have the evolution is liquids.

Buid up is mainly caused by plasticizers in tubing ad this in turn then get dyed but the dyes (as that what dye does). To the normal every day user who doesn't know any better they will think the root cause of the problem is the dye but unbeknown to them its not the actual problem but there narrow mindedness makes them believe this.

The only thing dyes really do is stain but that normal... So if you would like to aviod any type of staining at all then do not use dye. if you fancy pretty colors in you system then dyes are the way to go.

If you would like to avoid the main issue of build up then avoid crappy flexible tubing that was intended to be used on gas and not water. "

What else do you expect him to say? Load of PR shite :laugh: :laugh: Especially the part about tubing designed for fuel, never seen anyone using that. NEVER. And even if someone did use it, it is designed for FUEL! I highly doubt water will damage it. Especially considering i have used fuel line for cooling system repair on autos before. You know, where temp & pressure is an actual factor.

If you want to regularly service your entire loop and dump "coolant" & tubing go ahead. It's your time & $$$ :toast:

You can use universal waterblocks, I usually do with GPUs.

I think that's possibly better depending on the card and block, I ran a full cover on a 4850 which was expensive, changed the card and the block sat in a drawer for 2 or 3 years till i threw it away.

Exactly the reason why i use GPU only blocks, although full coverage blocks CAN improve clocking with the new GFX and their "boost" features. Depends on temp really, the lower the overall card temp the higher & longer it will "boost" for. And prolly do so using less volts... Is that worth the $$$? Your call :toast:
 
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If you want to regularly service your entire loop and dump "coolant" & tubing go ahead. It's your time & $$$ :toast:

FINALLY you get the point :D
 
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FINALLY you get the point :D

:laugh:

Nice insult! I "got the point" before you even had a clue ;)

I don't like being wastefull OR spending more $$$ than i need to, simple logic. :eek:
 
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well this will be a step down from the aegir, but i think itll be worth it haha!


knowing me id probably be draining it every few days and changing it anyway hahaha

what is the best way to clean rads? the outisde i mean, like between the fins etc
 
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I use an air compressor and a vaccuum, on opposing sides. I flush internals with CLR & hot water.
 
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:laugh:

Nice insult! I "got the point" before you even had a clue ;)

I don't like being wastefull OR spending more $$$ than i need to, simple logic. :eek:

Not insulting you, just waiting for you to stop moaning about my choices because they do not meet your standards.
I told you to quit it(nicely) many posts ago, and yet you continued.
 
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Not insulting you, just waiting for you to stop moaning about my choices because they do not meet your standards.
I told you to quit it(nicely) many posts ago, and yet you continued.

Learn to read. You = Fail :(

Instead of crapping d1nky's thread with your troll shite, hit me up via PM so i can continue laughing :cool:
 
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Play nice guys please :(

Aren't we supposed to help each other instead of flaming?
 
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Play nice guys :(

Aren't we supposed to help each other instead of flaming?

I am playing nice. I am not flaming. Have you bumped your head? Maybe you need an espresso? :toast:
 
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Rcoon is cool, he could write anything on here and hijack what he likes - i just do it back to him on his threads lol

BTW it takes two to tango :laugh:

ive seen many people using coolant and not said anything bad about it, maybe there is shit in the loop that reacts with the coolant to gunk up.

i dont know im a noob.


but today its arriving.... so ill be using it to plan out the loop and hopefully get the rest soon.
 
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I am playing nice. I am not flaming. Have you bumped your head? Maybe you need an espresso? :toast:

Lets just agree this conversation should have ended when i said i was perfectly happy with my choice.
That's the end of it.

Just be sure when you install your loop you leave a little excess tubing going from the rad and block to the res. In the videos I've seen, they pull the res out of the front of the bay and fill it up there, its on the official Raystorm FAQ anyway, and seems like a legit choice.
Also from what I've read over numberous places, you dont have to worry too much about air bubbles, as they disperse by themselves after a week or so.
 
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im not sure ill be putting it together properly as i know there isnt enough clearance for the ram, i will need to drill new mounting holes.

im not sure the res/pump will fit where i got the fan mounted in the bay.

but i may cut the hose in three bits, get some ice from tesco and distilled and run some benches lol


you must post pics rcoon, use this thread if ya want!


im off to work now, angle grinding the floor for tarmac - good fun lol
 
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im not sure ill be putting it together properly as i know there isnt enough clearance for the ram, i will need to drill new mounting holes.

im not sure the res/pumo will fit where i got the fan mounted in the bay.

but i may cut the hose in three bits, get some ice from tesco and distilled and run some benches lol


you must post pics rcoon, use this thread if ya want!

Yeah I'll post pics after I've run an overnight leak test.
I've seen pictures of the radiator, and some of them seem to come with brackets, similar to the H100 brackets for mounting in the NZXT's, only for mounting to the exterior of the case. I have these, and I bent them to about a 45 degree angle, and screw the bracket on to the rad. This means the rad is able to clear my RAM, as the Beast RAM would normally get in the way.

I know 15th Warlock used little reservoirs you could hook up to components directly filled with ice cold distilled water just to get the PC to post.
 
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