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new to watercooling

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Also from what I've read over numberous places, you dont have to worry too much about air bubbles, as they disperse by themselves after a week or so.

If you use a fairly big tube reservoir it's much much easier to bleed, my loop bleeds in like 15 minutes.



Couple of months pic old :p

Missing one Titan there :)


Have I already said that quick disconnects are awesome? ^^
 
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15 minutes and more to drain a loop?!

i see why i liked aircooling haha!

i want some quick disconnects on a small res im having at the bottom, or maybe ill just unscrew the res cap and let it flow out.


how do you guys drain a loop? with pump off or on? or on for a second etc
 
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My loop is modular with quick disconnects so I just unplug the part I need to drain.

The GPUs are separated by their QDCs, same for the mobo blocks + cpu block.

Each radiator is separated by QDCs too.

This is why I like test benches, I can basically swap components in 5 minutes even though I'm watercooling.

If you don't use QDCs then you have to "pop off" one fitting on the lowest part of the loop and let gravity do the work for you. NO PUMP to drain the loop, you can damage it by running it on air.

Oh you could always use a drain port, you just put in in the lowest part of the loop.
 
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ah just like bleeding a person...... lol

i havent planned out my loop yet tbh.... but i can see this becoming an addictive venture!
 
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Oh it will man, my loop costs almost as much as my hardware...
 
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any other tips?

and is the whole 24hours of leak testing needed?
 
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I strongly recommend it for the first times you install your loop.

I don't leak test anymore (WELL maybe 2 hours :p) cause I've been doing this for years and I can tell you with Koolance compressions water isn't going anywhere.
 
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ah what i may do then is size it all up plan it out. cut and make the loop outside the case, use the spare psu and leave it running outside for 24hours.

then assemble it in the case, and test for a couple hours.

i would want my rig working, been too many times its been in bits now lol
 
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I usually do the motherboard part (VRM+CPU+PCH) before installing the motherboard on the case/bench then I proceed with the rest.

Doing CPU only is fairly easy and it shouldn't take more than 10 minutes IMHO but take your time and tighten your fittings well.

Don't get hardware wet cause if that happens you'll have to wait a day to be sure it's properly dried.
 
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I'm looking at Titan blocks and extra 120mm Rads now...
Easiest thing to do seems to be fit it to your components so you get the tubing length and set up correct, then take the whole thing out and fill it up externally, followed by leak testing.
 
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ive got a delivery time for in the hour :D


just ordered hose/monsoon fittings/biocide from watercoolinguk

this place has the best customer service ive ever known!
 
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If you want a fullcover I strongly recommend Aquacomputer considering you are in Europe, you can find them easily and they're top notch.
 
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ive got a delivery time for in the hour :D


just ordered hose/monsoon fittings/biocide from watercoolinguk

this place has the best customer service ive ever known!

Mine is due between 1 and 2pm today.

If you want a fullcover I strongly recommend Aquacomputer considering you are in Europe, you can find them easily and they're top notch.

Looking at the EK Water Blocks EK-FC Titan - Nickel Full
 
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EK is good too but I would recommend you to pick plain copper if you choose so.

Just to be safe ;)
 
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EK is good too but I would recommend you to pick plain copper if you choose so.

Just to be safe ;)

Kryographics copper one then?
 
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Oh I'm sorry I haven't been clear :)

Aquacomputer and Watercool is fine if you chose them in Nickel variant.

I have myself two Nickel plated Kryographics blocks.

With EK I would recommend to stay with copper.

Basically EK has had a very very big problem with their Nickel plating procedure in the past which basically consisted in nickel flaking from the blocks and that has been quite a fiasco considering they gave the fault to consumers instead of admitting their fault in the process.

They seem to have solved the problems cause the newest batch from CSQ onward has been fine with almost no reports of nickel flaking.

I'd still be on the safe side and if I had to purchase from them I'd buy only copper.

I don't want to bash EK or anything, this is a dead horse but I find appropriate to give the right information to whoever wants to get into watercooling.
 
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mines arrived... theres sooo much stuff lol

i want to finish work and start playing ha!


ive just realised i need a fan controller or something. may make some molex to 3 pin header connectors.

and the fans with the kit seem pretty decent and nice bit of airflow, may have them in pull with the fan guards hiding them.


oh and a lil bag of sweets :D


2013-06-25 13.13.20.jpg
 
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These XSPC kits are solid man, that's why the D5 Raystorm is basically the best kit ever.

You get an extremely reliable high end pump with a top performing waterblock and high end radiator (depends on the model).

That being said the fourth revision of their pump X2O is no slouch either. :toast:

It can drive CPU + GPU + two high flow rads with no issue.
 
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mines arrived... theres sooo much stuff lol

i want to finish work and start playing ha!


ive just realised i need a fan controller or something. may make some molex to 3 pin header connectors.

and the fans with the kit seem pretty decent and nice bit of airflow, may have them in pull with the fan guards hiding them.


oh and a lil bag of sweets :D


View attachment 51626

I need to choose whether to use my Nidecs or recycle my H100 fans, as I doubt the fans that come with the kit are as powerful as either two. Mine should arrive within the next 40 mins! Lucky for me, the NZXT Phantom has a built in fan controller ;)
 
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i should be getting all round corsair sp120s, ive got two but need a matching set.

airflow 65cfm
static pressure 1.8
1650rpm

should be ok with corsairs for the time being

i got a proper pipe cutter as well, perfect cuts ;)
 
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i should be getting all round corsair sp120s, ive got two but need a matching set.

airflow 65cfm
static pressure 1.8
1650rpm

should be ok with corsairs for the time being

Stock H100 are 7.7 Static pressure, Nidecs are around 36.7 I think? Depends on how good the cooling is, I might go for better sound possibilities.
I'll laugh if its not much better than a H100.
 
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i wont know because i been rocking the aegir for a bit.


tbh the rad looks a bit shit
 
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these sp120s are evenly matched on airflow but double the static pressure.

they should match up ok on push/pull

i dont have a clue how ill mount the rad.

if it is shit i may just get a 120 rad to add in lol


this is getting addictive, damn you watercooling peer pressure!


i best get back to work..... enjoy....
 
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It's fine for a CPU loop only though.
 
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