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painting a wooden box

Discussion in 'Cases, Modding & Electronics' started by SpookyWillow, Jul 8, 2007.

  1. SpookyWillow New Member

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    i have a silver cmstacker 810 case and i have made a wooden box to house my water pump, radiator and tec to chill the water.

    now i have made it i need to paint it so i get a close as possible finish as my case, probably impossible but it's gonna be good fun trying.

    what type of spray paint should i be looking at or can you get some of that sticky plastic type thing that goes on cupboard doors etc that would give me a good finish?

    any tips appreciated :toast:
  2. Dippyskoodlez New Member

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    In order to get a good finish you'll need to prime it first. Otherwise you'll end up with wood-looking paint :p

    Then use the same type of paint that your case has- Acrylic usually has a shiny-ness to it.

    EDIT: Wait, your case is brushed aluminum? Not gonna work with paint :p

    You could get some sheet aluminum and polish it up and plate the wooden box. Probably easier, and it would match a hell of a lot better.

    But if you're not gonna do that, if you used a decently finished wood (Veneer plywood, or solid boards) you could stain it and keep it wood looking.
  3. SpookyWillow New Member

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    yeah i thought getting an aluminium finish out of paint was a bit much to ask, i cant really panel it with aluminum cos i cant afford it lol hence the box being made of wood instead of aluminium panels which is what i wanted to do.

    i only made it out of mdf as i planned on painting it so i dont have to look at a nasty wood box next to my shiny case lol, hmm where to get some cheap alum from......
  4. Dippyskoodlez New Member

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    If you don't use aluminum, I would suggest an acrylic black... but getting rid of the normal MDF texture is a toughie.

    Also, with the AL you could probably just screw the panels on top of the wood covering it all and it would probably look decent (as long as you polished it to match, well)
  5. SpookyWillow New Member

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    the mdf i have is quality stuff, extremely smooth with no rough texture to it at all, a few coats of primer and i reckon it would look ok.

    out of this world idea but it might work, what if i got some aluminuim foil and covered the box in that, would i be able to apply a clear lacquer overcoat to it?
  6. DR.Death

    DR.Death New Member

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    just paint it black it will blend in with the soundings
  7. SpookyWillow New Member

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    yeah it seems thats the only way i'm gonna be able to do it :(
  8. DR.Death

    DR.Death New Member

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    take some pictures and i will see what it looks like
  9. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    you could try coating it in leaf, such as gold or silver. Had some gold leaf from building car models. It is cheap, easy to do, and looks like metal. All you do is apply the glue, stick on the leaf and smooth it out. If you ask at the store you get the leaf at, they sell burnishing tools to patern the metal look, then just polyurethane when all done to protect.
    check this...http://www.gildedplanet.com/aluminumleaf.asp

    By the way dont look at the prices as I only paid $5 for like 10 sheets of gold leaf at my local hobby store.
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2007
  10. SpookyWillow New Member

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    unfortunately i dont have a cam to take a picture just yet :( but i will as soon as my mother in law gets back in the next day or so.

    isn't that leaf just like tin foil? sure looks like it lol and at $67 a book it would be cheaper to just buy some aluminium panels surely ?
  11. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    sorry had to edit original post, prices there are way off, and yea sorta...some 3M spray adhesive and aluminum foil would work. Plus after it was dry the foil could be brightened, or polished to match .


    EDIT: one thing also , Its almost free to try aside from the $5 worth of 3M( go with it, it is the best) , and some free foil from the kitchen, its worht a try IMO. If it looks bad ,scrape it off and sand the glue off(not hard to do at all) and start over!

    @ spooky that price was for 500 sheets, most hobby stores sell like 10 in a package.
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2007
  12. SpookyWillow New Member

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    well my case is brushed aluminium so i reckon it would be better to use the dull side maybe? if i got some high quality tin foil do you think it could be "brushed" slightly to give the same kind of finish as my case? or would it just tear ?
  13. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    there are burnaching tools for metal and I do recall brushes as well . I'd suggest starting with softer bristled brushes, so you dont tear the foil if effect is not quite there move to a stiffer bristle, and repeat untill desired effect. As i say if you go this route I strongly urge a finnish coat of something to "seal in the goodness" .

    you might even try a sanding with very fine grade paper after its applied, would give same type of lines. just put the paper down and move the box in a constant left right or up down motion so the lines stay straight.
  14. Dippyskoodlez New Member

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    Or like a metal brillo pad.
  15. SpookyWillow New Member

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    yeah that was my main concern with foil, it tears so easy when you try and do anything to the surface of it but i know i can get some high quality stuff thats reasonably thick.

    what type of coating should i use? i dont really want to paint it with a brush as it tends to look nasty (my painting skills aint the best lol) so is there a spray?

    i'll pick some up tomorrow and give it a go, i should have a camera by then so i'll post up some pics too ;) cheers for your help guys :D
  16. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    If you Plan to pray it 3M does have pray adhesive,which works great. AS for the top coat just look for some spay polyurathane (clear drying) Light coats is the tip here. And I have worked with the "commercial" grade B4 on previous projects and its way more forgiving than the "usual" stuff.


    EDIT: APPLY FOIL TO BOX THEN LINE IT.....will be more solid and shouldnt tear once glue is dry. just be carfull in the corners.
  17. SpookyWillow New Member

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    well i think i'm gonna do a lot of praying that it goes well and looks good but yeah i plan on spraying it if i can :laugh::laugh::laugh:

    right, i'm gonna go search about and find some polyurathane spray and see how much it is ;)
  18. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    Local hardware store should have it cheap. Home Depot, lowes , or the local guy ,should be in the $5-10 range , depending on size of the can.
  19. SpookyWillow New Member

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  20. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    that looks like the sray I was recommending ...

    By lining I just mean the finish on the metal.
  21. SpookyWillow New Member

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    ok i thought thats what you meant but just checking to be sure ;)
  22. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    Good luck Man, and the beauty part is, if you mess up the first time, there should be extra adhesive and foil to try a second time.
  23. Namslas90 New Member

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    Here in the U.S. we have "Heavy Duty" foil available, its almost twice as thick as the regular. If the wood you used is soft like 'pine", use a "sanding sealer" to seal the wood first, let it dry then lightly sand it, so when you polish/burnish it the chances of the grain showing up will be minimized. BTW; the shinny side can be brushed, and the dull side can be polished, after all it's just metal foil.

    @ Sneakypeet - Great Idea! :toast:
  24. SpookyWillow New Member

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    yeah it should just scrape off if i screw up but i got some spare bits of mdf i can practice on first :D
  25. sneekypeet

    sneekypeet Unpaid Babysitter Staff Member

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    NAMMY you are completely right on the sealer coat. It will produce a much smoother finish to start on!

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