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Troubleshooting Options HW

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Hello guys it's been a while since I last posted due to happy computing, now I'm in a bit of a pickle here. And in need of gurus.

My specs is updated.

Scenario:
I was playing GTA V online and suddenly system died. Turned off. No power fluctuations too. Last temp read outs on osd cpu at 35c gpu 55c.

I quickly switch off the power switch at the backside of the psu and my avr. No burning smell. I've opened the case to touch parts and see what's hot. Psu slightly warm as well as gpu and cpu heatsinks.

Now I tried turning it on again. This time the psu seems to want to power on but jus the tick and nothing follows. It doesn't even make the fans spin.

Next my mobo features charging when powered off but the psu is still switched on at the back side. And I've connected my phone and it charges.

Any options I can try and check to see if its a dead mobo psu gpu or proc? Atm don't have a spare pc, psu to check things :-( am at a loss although parts are fairly new. Psu got it 10/14/14 so it's still have warranty. Also is the gpu just bought it this January...

Sorry for wall of text. But any inputs are welcome and I will try it out when I get my rest day. Have work in a few hours.

Thank you
 
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Well, it still sounds like the PSU is failing so you really need to make sure you have good power before thinking about replacing anything else. While it may be providing +5Vsb standby voltage to the USB ports for phone charging, it may not be providing the normal +5VDC or the required +12VDC or +3.3VDC like it should.

If you cannot borrow a PSU from someone to try out, then you should have your PSU professionally checked at a shop. Most will do it for a nominal fee or even free. Next best thing is to try a PSU Tester. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltages. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within the required tolerances as specified in the ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide (see “Table 5. DC Output Voltage Regulation” on Page 14). However, these testers don't test for ripple.

I don't recommend using a multimeter because to test properly, the PSU must be under a variety of realist loads plus most multimeters don't test for ripple either.
So swapping in a known good spare or having the PSU professionally tested is the only way to conclusively verify your PSU is good (or bad).
 
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Thanks for the fast response and informative . I've contacted the shop and they told me to bring it in. They'll test and see if it's faulty. If it is. They're gonna process the warranty claim for me too ;-) . Hopefully I'd be up and gaming soon. Will have to check in later. As am off to work. Again. Thank you
 
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Well, it still sounds like the PSU is failing so you really need to make sure you have good power before thinking about replacing anything else. While it may be providing +5Vsb standby voltage to the USB ports for phone charging, it may not be providing the normal +5VDC or the required +12VDC or +3.3VDC like it should.

If you cannot borrow a PSU from someone to try out, then you should have your PSU professionally checked at a shop. Most will do it for a nominal fee or even free. Next best thing is to try a PSU Tester. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltages. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within the required tolerances as specified in the ATX Form Factor PSU Design Guide (see “Table 5. DC Output Voltage Regulation” on Page 14). However, these testers don't test for ripple.

I don't recommend using a multimeter because to test properly, the PSU must be under a variety of realist loads plus most multimeters don't test for ripple either.
So swapping in a known good spare or having the PSU professionally tested is the only way to conclusively verify your PSU is good (or bad).

I've been to the shop and it was dead it's not supplying12v so it's gonna go rma, and it's going to take atleast 3 weeks. I'm looking for a temp fix. They have fsp 600w and 500w aurum gold. Would 500w be enough to run my system temporarily? I can't go on without my system for a month.... Thanks
 
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Mussels

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FSP are decent, and 600W would be enough. go for it.
 
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Another Corsair bites the dust. I am beginning to feel that is a PSU brand to avoid. :(

Are you getting your money back for the Corsair? Do you have to buy the new FSP? Technically the 500W is big enough, but I would go for the 600.
 
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Another Corsair bites the dust. I am beginning to feel that is a PSU brand to avoid. :(

Are you getting your money back for the Corsair? Do you have to buy the new FSP? Technically the 500W is big enough, but I would go for the 600.

Well unfortunately no money is returning, although the corsair is going to be replaced. But it will take a while.. And sadly yeah I would need to shell out cash for the FSP.. Will probably sell either or when corsair comes back.

Thanks @Mussels. Also guys I got a good deal off a Corsair HX620. Hopefully this should help til the RMA push thru
 
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Will probably sell either or when corsair comes back.
Well, I recommend everyone keep a working spare on hand. For example, you could have been up and running right away if you had a spare to swap in. And having a spare handy is great for testing fans and drive motors too.
 

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at least when corsairs die they dont take your PC with them, so as far as i'm concerned these failures are still a win in their own way.
 
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at least when corsairs die they dont take your PC with them, so as far as i'm concerned these failures are still a win in their own way.

I agree. Any PSU can fail at some point. It's what it does then that separates good from awful.
 
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Most better PSUs today have protection circuits so they won't take out the device connected should they fail.
Any PSU can fail at some point.
Actually, every PSU will fail, eventually - if used long enough.
 
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Most better PSUs today have protection circuits so they won't take out the device connected should they fail.

You'd be surprised how many crappy PSUs there still are running around in the poorer parts of the world and the "budget" market, but yes it is getting better. Heck, even the infamous Andyson made a good PSU recently.


Actually, every PSU will fail, eventually - if used long enough.

Point taken.
 
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You'd be surprised how many crappy PSUs there still are running around in the poorer parts of the world
Which begs the question, "are they really that crappy?" And the poorer parts of the world are not the only place. Considering still today, there are many offices, schools, and churches with 10 year old entry level Dells and HPs that are still running strong that came with budget PSUs. And I note you can buy a brand new computer at Walmart for $219 that makes you wonder about the quality of that PSU too.

When there are so many cheap, off-brand, generic PSUs still doing their jobs out there keeping their computers running stable, it is often hard to convince some how important buying a quality (and more expensive) PSU is. That may just be a testament to the quality of electronics in general, but also to motherboard regulator circuits - even on budget motherboards.
 

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The thing is, those OEM machines are often in fact running *quality* low wattage PSU's. Its the cheap custom builts that have the quality problems, as they sell you a 150W PSU rated at 450W and hope you never used more than a celeron and integrated graphics.
 
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"Often" being the key word there. For sure, Dell and HP may use PSUs that are barely capable of providing enough power for the computer they come with - leaving little to no room for future upgrades. But those PSUs may still meet at least basic 80 Plus certification for efficiency and stability/ripple requirements of the ATX standard. But I agree it is the custom builder looking to cut corners in the budget by buying the cheapest PSU they can find where real problems often surface.
 
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at least when corsairs die they dont take your PC with them, so as far as i'm concerned these failures are still a win in their own way.
Yeah. This one didn't go boom it just died silently. Unlike my other experience wirh a cougar one. Fireworks!!

Well, I recommend everyone keep a working spare on hand. For example, you could have been up and running right away if you had a spare to swap in. And having a spare handy is great for testing fans and drive motors too.

Yup will keep it. Just to be sure.

Thanks guys for keeping this post informative one.
 
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But those PSUs may still meet at least basic 80 Plus certification for efficiency and stability/ripple requirements of the ATX standard


You'd be surprised how many (even expensive) PSUs fail one particular aspect of the ATX standard completely: Hold-down time.
 
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Hold-down time.
That would be "Hold-up" time, but yeah, it is disappointing how many of the better named PSUs fail this critical requirement. I've been a 20-year proponent of having all computers on a "good" UPS with AVR because the ATX standard requires PSUs hold "up" power for just a minimum of >16ms in the event a "low power" event occurs.

Yet some of the otherwise excellent PSUs barely held power up for 8ms, or even less! :eek: That's really cutting close to the reaction/cut-over times of many UPS, which is often around 5ms.
 
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