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Water cooling tips

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Jon G, Nov 23, 2006.

  1. Jon G New Member

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    I just started buying parts for my first water cooling setup. Hears what I have so far. 2-Danger Den 8800 gtx water blocks on back order not a big surprise 1-DD Danger Den Aua-Drive hard drive water blocks and a Eheim 1260 pump also got Auto-on PRS kit for AC (110V and 220V) water pump relay.1 Sea Line SL-300a 1/4hp Aquarium Chiller cpu water block APOGEE chip set Swift Teck MCW30 I heard Swift Teck water blocks can handle lower water temps with out damage or drying out and cracking like ones made with Plexiglass. I'm not shore if I need a radiator or not sense in using a chiller but I was thinking of adding one eany way just in case chiller goes bad or maybe I'm not going to want to have the chiller running all the time. If eany one has eany of these products or know about them or if I'm forgetting something give me a reply thanks.
     
  2. gR3iF

    gR3iF New Member

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    is in your setup a tank included or do you want to keep it open?
     
  3. D_o_S

    D_o_S Moderator

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    You don't need a radiator with the chiller... the radiator would just warm the water up.

    Swiftech blocks are decent for chilling, but I would choose their 5000 series if I was to use a chiller, since its all-copper, brazed shut.

    Please use more punctuation in your posts.
     
  4. Jon G New Member

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    ok I will look in to that thanks
     
  5. Alcpone

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    I commend you for having the balls to build a entire cooling system from scratch, ive just bought my very first water cooling system produced by xspc, you dont have them in the states, but I am very happy with it, it has dropped my cpu idle temp by 20*c and my gpu idle by 10*c and I use AS5 which doesn't work as its best for about 200 hours after application! Running under load my cpu doesn't heat up very much at all and my gpu is the same, I am very impressed with what water can do, im just waiting on uv water additive before I post pics!

    Keep it :cool:
     
  6. psychotix11 New Member

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    I wouldn't bother moving to swiftech water blocks unless you plan on using pelt cooling. The danger den silver TDX is flat out the best water cooling CPU block on the market.

    Even if you are pelt cooling some DD blocks are made to take the abuse.

    This is coming from someone that's used both swiftech and DD products.
     
  7. D_o_S

    D_o_S Moderator

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    Well... the Swiftech Storm is considered to be the best CPU block out there ATM...

    DD blocks are great too though, don't get me wrong.

    I was just recommending the Swiftech blocks as they are brazed shut... if you'll have chilled water flowing through a block which has a seal in the middle, and is out of 2 materials (which can contract/expand a little differently), there is a higher chance of failure.
     
  8. lemonadesoda

    lemonadesoda

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    There is less chance of a proper sealed block leaking (when made properly with an effective gasket), than there is of the connectors to the block failing, or the pump failing, or the pump leaking.

    A brazed seal may also not be perfect. You cannot see how well it has been done, and there is a higher chance of a poor braze fracturing. ESPECIALLY with anything that heats up and cools down.

    While I don't want to alarm anyone who has a brazed block... they should be ok... you cannot say that they are better than a sealed block. Remember PC water coolers are not under pressure.
     
  9. Jon G New Member

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    Water cooling system

    I have been working on my water cooling system for a while. This is what I finally got. 1-EHEIM 1250 water pump and 1/4 hp Current USA Prime Chiller. The water blocks are Swiftech APOGEE for cpu MCW30 for chipset and 2- Danger Den 8800 GTX blocks for gpu's. 1-Danger Den Aqua-Drive for hard drives. I took heat spreader off ram and added 2-Koolance RAM-30-V06. I also custom made water blocks for psu and now every thing is supper quiet and supper cool.By the way I get water temps around 0c on low for every day use and -36 on high for extreme OCs. A spacial thanks to every one hear for all the tips.
     
  10. Judas

    Judas

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    I am also thinking of trying out water cooling some time..but a good kit is rather expensive
     
  11. pt

    pt not a suicide-bomber

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    i was thinking of getting one two, but for now i will stay on air
    a good air cooler, still beats the crap of most cheap watercooling kits :)
     
  12. tong

    tong

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    Ok been watercooled for the last 2 years and ehre's some advice:

    Skip the chipset cooler -- all it does is add restriction to the loop and no real gains, A good passive or even active NB cooler is more than worth it.

    Again the ram coolers are nothign more than restriction and basicly bragging rights, some good heatspreaders will more then do the trick. Acording to research done on the ramcooling all they were worth was at max 5mhz more. Besides those coolance ones use bags for contacs, even a person not verywell trained will tell you that plastic doesn't realy conduct heat.

    The 6000 series swiftechs were the brazed ones, the 5000 series were 2 peice construction with the bottom being copper and the top aluminum --- corrosion if the anodizing ever wears off.

    The appogee is the top block at the moment for pelteir cooling, DO NOT pelteir the storm, it does not have enough flow thru it to handle it and will cook real easy. (the Danger Den TDX is nice but restrictive, that's y those that pelteir them use the silver version)

    Other than that your choices are excelent, oh here's a tip if you are using 1/2" id everywhere, get 7/16" tubing and soak it in hot water, makes it stretch and fit over all your fittings, less worries about leaks, it seals air tight and you don't need (but should still use) hose clamps.

    BTW before i start getting flamed, check out www.procooling.com and those guys will testify to everythign i posted here on blocks, restrictions, flows, and they even have testing to back it up :)


    My personal opinion on it.... Never again. It's great, quiet and all but at the rate new hardware comes out, it's just a Pain in the A$$. From socket A to 754, drain system, recut some tubing, replace, refill, test run for 24 hours, mount hardware, Cross fingers. From 754 to 939... same crap even worste cause i changed videocards and my block didn;t support the new card. PAIN IN DA A$$. In fact i haven;t gone AM2 just cause i know i'm going to have to deal with it again.
    Every 6 to 8 months you have to flush, rinse, clean the system out (due to algee build up), that's a good 2 days because of dry testing again.
    Every 3 to 6 months u have to open it all up and check on water level.
    If you have Aluminum and copper in the same loop -- OMFG corrosion like crazzy if any of the annozidation (sp?) wears off.

    A good Lian Li case with good airflow, some good choice of cooling producs will give you almost the same cooling and overclock as a water cooling system.

    My current system: Dfi ultra-d, opteron 165 @ 2.7, 2 x 1gig crucial ddr500, ati x850xt (Stock).
    Water components: Apoggee (Cathar didn;t have any of his new storm blocks in stock yet), swiftech 600 pump, tygon 7/16th tubing, DD drive bay water reservoir, HW Labs Black ice extreme 240 radiator, swiftech mcw50 videocard block.

    Temps: idle 24C, load (dual prime 95): 29C, video card under load: 34C

    Buddy's system: Lian Li case, dfi expert, opteron 170 @ 2.9, 2x1 gig patriot ram, thermalright xp120, geforce 7800gt 512, with artic cooler Zalman NB cooler (passive)
    Panaflow M1A's everywhere on a fan controller.
    Temps: Idle 26C, Load 34C. Vidcard 40C.

    Noise difference between the 2 systems ... abotu the sound of a regular xbox.
     
  13. tong

    tong

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    Oh one more tip i have. For fluid in the system : 90% distilled water, 10% antifreeze.

    The crap they sell as an antifreeze additive for water cooling is just that--- CRAP. Don't waste your money. The Fluid XP stuff is nice, Florentine(sp?) is the way to go but it evaporates quickly and is massively expensive. The zerex additive leaves a nasty film on the blocks and tubes. The swiftech stuff is nice but doesn;t prevent corrosion between aluminum and copper.

    I use 90% distilled water and 9% antifreeze and 1% UV reactive die. For antifreeze, most hardcore guys will tell you, get a bottle Of PENTOSIN. It's an antifreeze made for VW and Audi cars. It's excellent for mixed metal systems and prevents corrosion and algae build up. It comes in blue or purple and is quite expensive for the 1 litter bottle you get. Been running that in my system since my socket 754 upgrade, haven;t had algae problems or corrosion problems, even with my mcw50 being aluminum/copper.
     
  14. Mediocre

    Mediocre New Member

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    That doesn't happen 'round here. Thats why I like it :rockout:
     
  15. Jon G New Member

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    I have tried a couple different things, but after -20 coolant starts to gel up. I can get my coolant lower then -30 but there is no point if I'm just pumping ice. Any one know of a coolant that has a freezing point that's about -60?
     
  16. Toona New Member

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    A 70/30 antifreeze/water mix gets you down to about -55C
    ammonia might get you down some?? pure ammonia is -77.7C

    if i think of some other ill let you know
     
  17. Alcpone

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    Does the pump work ok @ -77*c?
     
  18. Jon G New Member

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    The pump manufacturer say it can pump fluid at -100 with out the seals cracking ,and they emailed me that so it the pump goes its on them. Ehem told me they have been testing their pumps in extreme cooled do to the popularity of their pumps in the OC world.
     
  19. Jon G New Member

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    Ive used antifreeze before lowest - temp I could find were -35 and after -20 gets geld.
     
  20. Toona New Member

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    could try ethyl (-117C) or methyl(-138C) alcohol. Only thing you need to check the compatability of your seals and whatever liquid you use. Especially alcohols they tend to dry out o-rings and make them crack. Check somewhere like http://www.applerubber.com/library/techsealing.cfm
    they could tell you what material your seals need to be.
     
  21. Jon G New Member

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    How about auto window washing fluid? A friend told me that works good and has a low freezing point.
     
  22. ATIonion New Member

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    anit freeze washer fluid that is......the pink stuff usually...but beware...your seals on your system may not be able to handle some chemicals....tred lightly..
     
  23. Jon G New Member

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    OK I'm going to look in to that thanks.
     

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