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World Of Tanks

Discussion in 'Games' started by ivicagmc, Aug 12, 2011.

  1. johnspack

    johnspack

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    I prefer base protect, and sniper duty. I find the medium with camo is perfect for that.... plus only been playing for maybe 6-8hrs now total... can't do it all in one day!
  2. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    Was going to sell my StuG III to make room for Panther, but then I realised that it prints more money than all those QE politicians have been talking about. Probably getting rid of my beloved Pz IV instead :<
  3. Tatty_One

    Tatty_One Senior Moderator Staff Member

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    If you wanna make some cash..... try arty, my little SU8 gives me around 16-20k profit every game with a standard account.
  4. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    I am no good with arty, my Grille gives 10k on a good match, usually closer to 5k. I can reach the same profitability with my VK3601H, but if I lose badly it costs monies. Surprisingly I still manage to break even with my Tigers, and the P even gives a few k each game :eek:

    Wonder if I can break even with Tier 8 standard account.
  5. entropy13

    entropy13

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    It's only starting with Tier 9 that I lose money (albeit barely, -1k apparently). Tier 10 is a bit worse though because it's around -4.6k net income. This is already with premium account 'removed' in the computation. With Tier 8s I barely make money with the T28 Prot. (1.2k LOL) and IS-3 (3k), while for obvious reasons I make a lot with my T26E4 (23k).

    The Hummel makes a lot of credits (gross), but when the ammo costs and repair comes into account (i.e. net income), it's 6k.

    Among my Tier 7s I apparently make the most credits in my T29 thus far.

    VBAddict's WoT dossier uploader/tracker helps in computing things for me.
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013
  6. Tatty_One

    Tatty_One Senior Moderator Staff Member

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    Very hard at tier 8 but to some degree depends on your tank, sadly yours is german! :laugh: maybe try the french or russian arty line..... you might notice a difference! ;)
  7. entropy13

    entropy13

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    Among my non-premium tanks, I earn the most with the T-150 at 11.4k. Next is the SU-85B and the Cromwell at 9k. ELC AMX is 8.4k and the T29 is 8k. StuG III is 7.8k while Tiger is 7.5k.

    I earn roughly the same for the Hummel (6k) and the SU-18 (5.3k).
  8. KingPing

    KingPing

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    You can still broke even with Tier 8 german tanks (at least the Tiger 2) even the E75 shouldn't be much problem money wise on a standard account, provided you are good and have some lower tier credit farming tank.

    Of course a few matches with incompetent teammates and firing some gold rounds (if you pay them with silver) and you are in total economic ruin if you are not careful.
  9. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    Yes sadly I am stuck with German stuff :(

    This game emphasises quite heavily on high alpha on higher tiers, its annoying to be plinking 200 damage on a 1.5k opponent. So which tree should I start next? I am going to get one Tier X German vehicle (most likely down Tiger II), and I am quite tempted by the Chinese vehicles (they look and act like French gokarts, with a little bit more bounce)
  10. Tatty_One

    Tatty_One Senior Moderator Staff Member

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    Go all nationalities, they all have pigs.... and they all have diamonds, as for the Tiger 2 and E75 making money on a standard account, all the stats would suggest otherwise, I will dig out a link when I am at home but if I remember rightly, only about 17% of all battles with standards accounts came out in a profit (Tiger 2 not E75), but the link was to an app thats about a year old now so might not exist anymore and therefore those stats may be outdated.

    Personally, talking about medium/heavy lines.... i enjoyed the US and Russian, I did the german in Beta and have only gone medium line since, I found the french heavy line a hard grind to tier 9 and then it was great.
  11. entropy13

    entropy13

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  12. KingPing

    KingPing

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    I'm not saying you earn money with them (i broke even with the tiger II), i'm just saying that they are not a money pit if they are played right, with some lower tier tank to make credits you are good on a standard account. The Jagdtiger on the other hand is a very expensive tank to repair, even if it was not destroyed unlike the E75 and the cost of the shells coupled with it's RoF means that even on winning matches where you destroy or hit a lot of targets you are going to loose money because of the amount of rounds you use. You make a lot of money on those matches but the bill for the shells is even more.

    By the way, my id is KingPing the same as here in TPU, and i play in the American server.
  13. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    Amazing how the 3601H has the worst moneymaking potential among the 3. List also confirms that StuG III prints money for the Wehrmacht. British tanks look pretty consistent with their earnings, but not a lot. Surprising how BDR G1B is on top of the list, I have never considered it to be worth noting in the battles I fought.
  14. Tatty_One

    Tatty_One Senior Moderator Staff Member

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  15. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    I love the 88mm/71, shot 3 times at an unsuspecting Tiger II from 600m, 3 new holes on its side. That poor guy thought he was pretty safe at his base and probably went for a drink.
  16. Tatty_One

    Tatty_One Senior Moderator Staff Member

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    Lol..... but watch them bounce head on! :rockout:
  17. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    Well I rarely if ever needed to face a Tiger II face on (mostly I just avoid them, pain in the ass to kill with crap dps) but if I do there are enough little bits in front for me to aim.
  18. burebista

    burebista

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    When Lorri 50 wants to be a T92... :D
    What Premium tanks? Bring me arty events. :rockout:

    About playing Tier 8 with standard account. It's doable IMO. A little bit tricky but you can do that. If you don't have a Premium tank just keep some Tier 5/6 moneymakers. Just in case.
    From Tier 9 it's pretty hard to play on standard account.

    Luckily for me I just won 10k gold on 2 ESL local events so I'm not worried about credits for some months.:eek:

    Attached Files:

  19. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    Fourstaff's guide to Tiger P (and German tanks in general):

    Mindset:
    Tiger P, as with most other German tanks, is pretty bad at taking damage in general. Due to their less than stellar (alpha) damage, they generally do quite badly in brawling too (exceptions exist as usual). However, with Tiger P's famed 200mm front armour, it allows this little kitten much more flexibility than most other German tanks. Sure, the side armour are still pretty non existent, there are plenty of places you can penetrate from the front, but for longer ranges the 200mm is much more helpful than a hinderance. It is not as impervious to damage like a hull down'ed T29 though.

    First few games:
    Coming from the VK3001P (piece of crap if you ask me), you should have the top engine, top radio, and unlocked the 88mm/56 (Short 88) and the 10.5mm/28 (derp gun of Pz IV, avoid like a plague). Choice of either the 70mm or the 88/56 is playstyle dependent: some people prefer the short 88 for its higher alpha while others prefer the 70mm's slight penetration increase and accuracy. I personally prefer the short 88's aim-shoot-relocate timing. When playing the short 88 load a few premium shells (3 is more than enough) to for emergency use.

    Given the lacklustre damage of those 2 guns (lack or pen/alpha) it is best for you to play as a support, even if you are on top of the list. Follow another slow tank and play accordingly. If you are the top tank, its still important to drive cautiously: every tank can penetrate you from sides and rear given the chance. Don't be afraid to be the front line if you are the top tank though, your 200mm in front is greatly appreciated even if your dps is next to nothing.

    Work towards upgrading the suspension: without it you will not be able to mount the long 88 or the new turret. Also consider getting the enhanced torsion bars to mount the long 88 first, but only if you unmount it later using gold. Turret will be your last upgrade since its not a critical part.

    With the 88mm L/71:
    Congratulations, you have suffered enough (and/or paid the price) to get the long 88, this is when you start to shine in battlefields. Against equal tier and below, the long 88 will perform admirably, allowing you to dish untold amounts of pain. As much as possible, play in areas where you will be having a sniping match, eg. bridge in Mountain Pass. That way you can utilise your superior accuracy and penetration to its best. DPS is still fairly average at best, but the aim-shoot-scoot cycle is quite decent, allowing you to use quite a lot of your theoretical DPS.

    Other things:
    Standard consumables (extinguisher, small first aid, small repair kit) is almost necessary for this tank: very often a shot will injure someone, getting tracked is fatal and the ocassional fire should be put out immediately. Prioritise your gunner and loader along with guns and tracks, gunner over loader and guns if your tracks are still in working condition.

    As for equipment, rammer is pretty standard, the others are open to playstyle. Camo net is useful with camo crew, Binoculars/coated optics are self explanatory. I would load rammer, wet ammo rack and camo but there is no best way of doing this.

    Skills and perks: pretty standard, get BIA if mounting improved ventilation, camo for camo net etc. Otherwise consider getting safe stowage (getting ammo racked is never fun), clutch braking for better wiggling along with snap shot.

    When you are at the top of the list:
    You have the ability (but not necessarily skill and team) to take on the entire opponent team and come out the victor. As always, be careful of arties, you are the prime target of any halfway decent arty player: a moving pinata waiting to be killed. In absence of any arty feel free to be more aggressive. Always consider driving into the thick of battle (eg city of Ruinberg), where you can effectively utilise your high penetrating gun and relatively hard to penetrate front armour. If there other top tanks like IS or T29 decides to go into the city, consider going to the second front and push all the way into your opponent's base.

    When you are at the bottom of the list:
    Drive safely, and remember to fasten your seatbelts: the long 88 doesn't have enough penetration against most frontal armour of tier 8's, and your speed and traverse rate will make you pretty useless when faced against fast circling vehicles (notably T71 and the French gokarts). That said, be patient and hunt down enemies scouts and mediums. Proceed to the frontline as enemy numbers thin.

    Things to avoid:
    Anything named Object xxx, arties, ISU 152 , hull down'ed T29, most IS (except IS/IS2) and arties. Also worth avoiding are fast lights, but if you are going with your teammates (as you should) it becomes trivial to handle.

    Where to go after Tiger P?
    I have not played VK4502A yet, so I cannot comment on that. Tiger plays pretty similarly to Tiger P, with slightly better (but not that noticeable) mobility and should not see the front lines at all unless there are not much enemies left. Ferdinand is always a good choice, playstyle is not entirely dissimilar.

    Happy Tanking!
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2013
  20. entropy13

    entropy13

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    Did some selling and buying, so here are my current tanks:
    | T30, T26E4 Super Pershing, T29, T20, M7 MT, T14, M7 Priest, M37, T18, T1E6 | Pz. VI Tiger, Hummel, StuG III, T-25 |
    | ELC AMX, FCM36 PaK40 | IS-7, IS-3, T-150, Churchill III, Matilda IV, SU-85, SU-18 | Cromwell, Churchill I | Type T-34 |
  21. KingPing

    KingPing

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    Also for German tankers ( i use German tanks but it might work with others too): use your sides to bounce shoots. When you are behind a rock or a corner, instead of exposing your front.

    Position your tank like this (any round that hits at 70 degrees or more will bounce even if you are shoot by an JPz E100), wait for the shoot to bounce, then go back and shoot, repeat. For tanks with angled side armor like the Tiger II, Jagdtiger, E75, etc this tactic works great.

    [​IMG]
  22. entropy13

    entropy13

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    That works with most USSR heavies (except the KV's, so that's the IS's and the ST-I), not so much with the USA heavies (in their case they won't bounce, but would be absorbed by the tracks itself; technically speaking there's not much "side armor" in a USA heavy).
  23. Fourstaff

    Fourstaff Moderator Staff Member

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    As an exclusive German tanker, I can tell you that you will need to be very careful if you are employing sidescraping with them. A few degrees off and you will find yourself a burning wreck due to the non existent side armour. With Tiger P its much better to bait them into shooting prematurely when you show them your front but you will have to do it with the normal Tiger.
  24. johnspack

    johnspack

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    Plowing forward... my Mark II is now an elite tank. My Mark III has seen it's first battle, but I'm going to keep learning in the II for now. Planning on a clan soon. Spent some more money on it today, oh well, you pay for what you like! Also learned today, when to just attack, and not base protect.... interesting....
  25. entropy13

    entropy13

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    8.4: The British TDs are coming! Also, the German lights (Luchs, Leopard, VK2801) will go up a tier. There will also be new German lights added.


    So it's NOT the 2nd German line...

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