Discussion in 'techPowerUp! Club Forum' started by imperialreign, Sep 25, 2007.
no. nothing changes
Roll back the drivers & see if it still happens perhaps?
dunno. my audio went crap after waking from sleep mode with a movie paused, and changing the bitrate fixed it. it sounded similar to what you described (like the audio was compressed in a lossy manner, being played by a crap speaker)
anything beyond that... try older/generic drivers, see what happens.
Ive rolled back to the drivers that M$ update was giving me which was released in July 2009. its working perfect now. LOL
i've had that happen a couple of times with Vista - but never with XP
Strange - I sometimes wonder if the drivers available via MS update are different than those available from Creative . . .
whats confusing is - why did the 0007 drivers just suddenly mess up like that?
I've got a weird problem with my xtremegamer, could be drivers.. I've used it for over a year under xp64, works perfect. I did a fresh install of xp64 and when I go to shutdown or restart, it will sit there for 5mins at least, and then slowly shut down. I pulled the x-fi, and it shutdown in 2 secs! Problem gone! Then I remembered that my old install was using much older modded drivers, and now I'm using the latest. Same drivers work perfect under win7 64. I may try again with older drivers and see if that fixes it. Has anyone heard of an issue this weird with the new drivers?
No idea, man . . . I've noticed it with Vista x64 occasionally, too . . .
It's as if WIN gets confused when it's allowing an application to make use of an audio device (or interogatting one), and attempts to assign it to the wrong one (such as an onboard component, or an ATI GPU-based audio device, or external USB, etc.), which results in a typical driver conflict . . . the software is trying to use a device that's not available, while the audio card is interpeting all the audio calls that are being passed from the application through the OS to the hardware . . . (and the crap part being, there wouldn't be this layer of "confusion" if software could directly access the hardware as was possible with XP :shadedshu )
I've found that merely removing the drivers and disabling the hardware in Device Manager isn't enough - make sure that you completely remove all unused/un-needed devices from the WIN Audio Control Panel as well . . . this has been more effective, but I still occasionally have some issues with new software.
TBH, man, this is just my best guess on the issue . . .
Can't say that I have . . .
Although, question . . . did you install the initial drivers and software from the Installation CD first, and then the update drivers?
Also, can you provide a screenshot of the currently running WIN processes at shutdown? It's possible one or two un-needed Creative services might be holding things up . . .
I have the card out right now, and I used drivercleaner.net to remove old traces. I used an old daniel_k driver package before when it worked properly under xp64. So I'm just going to try to reinstall that one. Also found an updated version by youp-pax, might try that as well. And I'll bet your right about one of the creative apps hanging on shutdown. Like I said, only a problem under xp64, win7 64 seems to like the newer drivers....
Well, let me know if they work better or not . . .
As well, I think the fact that the newer driver packs are for all WIN OSes, it will inherently create some problems . . . XP is a completely different beast than either Vista or 7 . . . I still believe that XP drivers should continue to be seperate from the others . . .
Hey I have an XtremeGamer am running Win 7 (7600) with Creative's beta driver (the latest afaik) and just noticed CMSS 3D doesn't work. Found some info via Google including a special modded driver by Daniel K but this was all from January so rather old. Do I want to use the Daniel K driver? Or perhaps Creative has fixed this 'officially' and I'm not aware?
Yep, went back to the old daniel_k driver, no more problems under xp64. And the new drivers under win7 x64 7600 work perfect, including cmss 3d. I think it's the same driver, but they updated the installer, you might want to try this driver Wrigleyvillain: http://support.creative.com/Product...e=X-Fi&prodID=15853&prodName=X-Fi XtremeGamer
Maybe you'll get cmss back!
Am I the only one that turns all the effects off? I hate them. The only thing I ever use is tone controls when needed.
All right, thanks. I had assumed the beta driver would be newer but in this case apparently not. I am presently using Daniel_K X-Fi Support Pack 2.0 and all is working fine. Only care aobut CMSS 3D as I have to use headphones for gaming...
Actually, I don't care about the effects either, just don't like waiting 5mins to shut down! Plus this is a special package, can't be found anymore....
Well, technically, all WIN 7 support is still considered "beta" until the OS has actually gone retail . . . until then, everything (both drivers and the OS RC versions) are a bit hit or miss.
As well, I have no idea on the d_k drivers, as they were never designed for WIN 7, either . . . they may or may not work. I believe WIN 7 follows a similar design structure as Vista did, so it's quite probable they will work without any issues.
I can't offer any advice yet regarding OS7, as I've been too busy to even try out any of the betas or RCs - I do have OS7 pre-ordered, though, and will be installing it on a fresh new HDD soon as it arrives in the mail.
I don't disable EAX - but I do lower the effects volume. 0.0db renders the effects too loud most times . . . I prefer -4.6db or round-abouts.
CMSS-3D, though, I leave enabled for gaming, but disable for multimedia. Crystallizer stays off.
I think I have found the reason why my sound was technically f**ked up....I wired the card up to the FP on my pc case - that was one of the major changes i made but It didnt cross my mind that I might have wired it up incorrectly since I looked up diagrams on google & I followed the instructions where to plug the HDFP cable into.
so what happend after I wired it up was it totally wrecked the 'reception' of my microphones. volume either came in very very low & broken up or it would just be some unintelligible random amount of 'buzzing' where i would speak but it would just buzz instead of transfering my 'voice' across the channel....
after I uplugged the FP from my card Mic levels returned to normal. people could hear me clearly again. Im back on the 0007 drivers again. the distortion has improved a lot since I unplugged the FP but is still there which means i must have partially damaged or fried the card when I connected it up with the FP.
I can still sell the card to some random guy so it has a value but original plan of switching to a Xonar still stands unfortunately.
if the distortion went away then i wouldnt of botherd getting a new card.
Did you follow the wiring diagrams I had posted in the OP, or another?
Just curious, as I wnet to great lengths to test out that conncetion diagram, which should be fine with Azalia/AC97 - they both use the same common grounds - but if a power feed was crossed, that could lead to problems.
If my diagram was incorrect, please let me know.
Otherwise, the card itself might still be salvagable - check the caps on the card. If any are leaking or bulged, replacing them should fix the issue . . . but, that distortion you're hearing will typically be coming from failing OPAMPs (I've ran into this before from my own trial and error experiments). If you're up for a little board soldering, the OPAMPs aren't too difficult to replace.
I followed someone elses diagram. I will have a look at the caps on the card later. op amps shouldnt be too hard to replace?? any idea what ones to go after just so i get some idea how much i can buy them & how much they are
these are currently the only opamps that are available to me within easy reach unless I go to more specialist places.
as for soldering - even though I did tech at school & college, most of my experience was when i was still at school...In college they wouldnt let us touch any electrical goods/components till our final exam. theory all the way & no practical - only 1 person out of about 15-20 of us passed. followed by lots of finger pointing between us (the students) the head of department who lied to us about the course being 80% practical & the tutors who never gave us a PCB & resistors & other crap to mess around with so that we might learn something. swiftly followed by the withdrawl of the £10,000 by the people who were supposed to be funding us....
I can repair my own guitar leads & bits n bobs. so I'l see about soldering opamps on lol
Well, if you're willing to order OPAMPs online - I'd recommend these: AD8599; they're much better than the LM4562 that most users recommend.
Replacing the OPAMP isn't too entirelly difficult - I'd recommend getting ahold of a set of PCB side cutters to make it easy . . . snip the legs off of the OE OPAMPs, they use a 25W-35W soldering iron with some copper braid to remove the remaining solder and the legs.
Installing them, I found it easier to take a small piece of scotch tape and use that to hold the OPAMP on the seats, then solder them to the board.
I'd recommend a 15W, as there's less of a chance of heat damaging the board, but such a weak gun makes it very hard to remove the solder, too . . . I'd recommend against using a gun that's 45W or stronger, as it could seriously damage the PCB and/or the new OPAMP.
I mean, hell, if the card has about had it, and you're planning on getting a Xonar anyway, might as well see if you can't clean it up and get it functioning again - or hold on to it for future testing, y'know?
well ive seen pictures of the card with the EMI shield off & tbh it looks like a bit of a daunting task. secondly now that youve explained what i need exactly the only item ive got on hand at the moment is what i think is a 35watt solder iron. im not too sure. I could always try find a more specialised electonics store & see if their willing to do the work for me, for a small fee. otherwise im not quite sure. at the moment i really have to keep tight grip on all outgoing cash.
If i can flog the card off to a total idiot then thats what i'l probably try to do lol.
Id rather sell the card off & use whatever i get & put it towards the Xonar.
Don't sell it claiming it's OK. That's not even remotely right. If you plan to sell, tell the buyer up front you think it may be damaged.
And a 35W iron will work fine as long as you use the right solder and use a fine tip. I use a 35W iron on my vmods.
@imperialreign - How accurate are those opamps? I want low distortion, but high accuracy. I was thinking of throwing some new ones on my Audigy 2, just for some fun.
Agreed. 35W is about the right recommendation for working on PCBs, anything lower tends to take too long to heat up the actual solder, and wick too much heat to the PCB and component.
They're pretty good - I'd have to rate them up there in-so-far as the quality compared to other OPAMPs on the market that would fit that style seat.
Here's a comparison between the LM4562s (which is what just about everyone recommends) and the AD8599s (which is what I recommend): http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=884307&postcount=689
To summarize, the LM4562 is a major step above the OE OPAMPs, the AD8599s are a major step above the LM4562.
They give a much cleaner output, reduced channel bleeding, better frequency range output, etc.
As well, they don't pick up much in the way of EMI/RFI from neighboring components, unlike the LM4562s - For comparison, I compared the LM4562s to the OE OPAMPs here, as well as comparing the 4562s before and after addition of copper heatsinks (which act as mini-EMI shields): http://forums.techpowerup.com/showpost.php?p=817967&postcount=568
Somewhere deep in this thread, too, I had compared the difference between the 8599 before and after adding heatsinks, but can't find it . . . anyhow, there's little of any change in reduction of noise with copper heatsinks installed.
Between their pricing (which is fairly dirt-cheap) and their quality, I haven't been able to find any others that compare. There are some brands that have a little higher quality output, but they're expensive as crap (i.e. $80+ for 4-5 OPAMPs).
unfortunately - the AD8599 are pretty rare in the UK & if you DO find someone who sells them they will most likely be around £5-6 each.....
Ive lurked through forums where a guy orderd a few from the US - ended up costing him about £42
So lets put this in perspective....
AD8599 - Expensive for 4x opamps = £20 not including P&P which would most likely be another £5 (£25)
Soldering wire - £3-4
soldering tips £1-10 depending if i can get them seperately.
grand total - £45 at the most
secondly - I need to find a store here within a 30mile radius that sells the opamps (add another £5 for travel around london) since I cant order stuff online. the nearest retailer or at least what google is telling me is somewhere in Wakefield -an almost 2hr30mins & hefty £40-60 train ticket away from london.....
if the card was one in a million, fine. id spend that money but it aint. I paid £90-100 for the card & im unwilling to spend £45 on it when i can probably sell it for a lot more & put it towards a Xonar
Optical SPDIF output
Hi guys i was wondering if it would be possible to set the Optical SPDIF output on my X-fi Platinum Fatal1ty to be a separate output option in windows xp so that using directsound in music apps i could stream my music out of the optical connector to my stereo for background music and only have game noises coming through my headset?
tried asking the creative forum and got no replys what so ever hoping from looking at the knowledge available here you'll be able to help
thanks in advance
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