Thermaltake Orchestra

Thermaltake Orchestra

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For testing, I used my Opteron 144 on a DFI nF4 SLI-DR Expert motherboard.

First, I prepared the block for mounting. I opened the bag that contains all the block mounting hardware. As I was going to use the system on a Socket939 motherboard, and my current watercooling uses a system compatible to that of Thermaltake, all I had to do was screw down a little metal block with the bracket onto the block. Then I slid the block down the threaded rods.

With the block installed, this is how the CPU area looks like.

The next step of installation was very easy – all I had to do was connect a few hoses, and everything was good to go. As I was installing the system just for testing purposes, and also due to the fact that my case is already full of water-cooling, I installed the whole system outside of my case. Those that choose to have the pump inside their case will be glad to know that Thermaltake has supplied a PCI-bracket for tubing to pass through. Quick disconnect couplings are on the inlet and outlet tubing of the radiator, this a great idea as it means that by disconnecting the radiator, you do not lose all the liquid inside. There is plenty of tubing included with the kit, so I see no problems in routing the WC system even in the biggest of enclosures.

To complete the whole set up, I had to fill up the radiator with coolant. With the provided “driver”, which fits into the slot on the cap perfectly, I unscrewed the cap, and poured in the contents of all four bottles of coolant.

I was a little disappointed to see that the manual fails to mention anything about bleeding or leak-testing the system. It is true that with all the Thermaltake water cooling products I have tested so far I have yet to experience a leak (the tubing clamps are the best type you can get), but one never knows – it is quite possible that you would just overlook something, and then get your PC wet. Bleeding (getting all the air out) is essential to get the most out of your water cooling system, a water cooling loop that is not bled properly will not cool properly. To leak test and bleed the system, I switched on the pump with a separate PSU, and let the whole thing run for a couple of minutes with the radiator uncapped. I observed the whole loop in case water was escaping somewhere, I also refilled the liquid that diminished during the bleed process. Finally, I replaced the cap on top of the radiator.
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