Could you help me reach 5Ghz?

[LightningJR]

My room temperature is about 22*C. I know some of you want to help but your comments make me feel like a noob. I know how to build up my system. And sure know how to fasten the screws.
There hasn't been one comment on reaching the 5Ghz what was my goal. It's very easy to say something is broken. If you have seen my system before you know i'm neat about so i would not let it clutter up with dust or something else.
If u go and read online there are many people reaching 75/80*C on water. So i am not that worried. Off course the difference in temps is greater when you have your voltage set at 1.2v or 1.4v.
Before when i watercooled my Q9550 the temps always stayed the same for a year or so. Then i changed setup, cleaned everything and this is where i'm at.
To be honest i don't think something is broken. Tomorrow i will pick up some Arctic Silver paste to check if it makes a difference. If not i will buy a new block and redo the loop and see if it makes any changes.

I'm sorry if I made you feel like a noob.. Maybe you just got a high heat output 2500k.. It's too bad if you did though. It sucks that even under water you can't get good temps. I would recommend some Prolimatech PK-1, from the multiple of reviews I've read it seems to be one of the best and there's no curing time from what I can tell.

We're just saying the temps seem outrageous when you're under water. But no disrespect

I would run Prime95 for 3 hrs to make sure your 5Ghz is fully stable after you get your loop situated.

Give us some benchies when your done

 

[Chicken Patty]

Have you ever pulled off your block to see how the TIM is distributing between the block and the CPU? Maybe it's not spreading out evenly. I know back when socket 1366 these blocks had that issue, that's supposed to be fixed now, but I would still check as you have nothing to lose.

One reason why people are not posting much about your 5 GHz is because lowering your temps drastically will help you like you have no idea in getting 5 GHz stable with LESS voltage. The hotter it runs, the more voltage it needs. Your cooling setup is great, but something is obviously causing the setup to not cool as it should. Let's try and figure that out and then see what this CPU has in it.

 

[trickson]

It may sound stupid, but make sure that you tighten the mounting screws all the way with a screwdriver and not just your hands.

I have the Apogee XT, and my 2600K @ 4.8 GHz @ 1.41V got on average 15 C cooler after I tightened it with a screwdriver.

( I hope I do not get in trouble for this )

I would never use a screwdriver to tighten the mounting screws ever . I would caution any one against doing this . It is a very sensitive area to say the least and adding too much pressure to the CPU and socket can and will lead to disastrous problems . I have done this before . You can bend the pins , warp the socket and even crack the MB ! If your current cooling is not doing the job then back off your OC and find a better solution . Always use your fingers and never over tighten you mounting screws ! EVER . Great job on your over clock I hope all goes well for you .

 

[overclocking101]

TECHNIKS, I know their comments may make you feel like a noob vut they are all correct, more then likely you cant get a good stable 5ghz oc is due to the cpu running to hot. your cpu under water should not get 80c unless its a corsair h50/70 etc. If I were you I would put fans on both sides of your rads (helps air flow and maintain a more steady temp at load) and tighten down that cpu block or something because that load temp is insane, maybe for 5ghz that temp would be considered ok but im telling you the cooler the more stable. that said, if you dont want to try any of that, maybe try upping the imc voltage if you feel it's already pretty high maybe try lowering it a touch (I have had this help for high oc) maybe giving use some of your bios' oc options?? like pll voltage what is that set to?? also whats your qpi speed?? try setting that to the lowest. I have learned one thing about i7's and thhat is if your memory isnt stable it can screw up your entire cpu stability.

just some thoughts.

( I hope I do not get in trouble for this )

I would never use a screwdriver to tighten the mounting screws ever . I would caution any one against doing this . It is a very sensitive area to say the least and adding too much pressure to the CPU and socket can and will lead to disastrous problems . I have done this before . You can bend the pins , warp the socket and even crack the MB ! If your current cooling is not doing the job then back off your OC and find a better solution . Always use your fingers and never over tighten you mounting screws ! EVER . Great job on your over clock I hope all goes well for you .

Agreed. I would'nt put to much pressure but most blocks definately the swiftech ones can only tighten so far before the back plate stops the screw. it IS recomended to tighten the screws until they stop on swiftech blocks.

 

[technicks]

Ok update:

Because you guys made me feel bad I took the whole system apart.
Took me about 4 hours to clean and put it back together.
Cleaned everything! cpu block, fittings, res, pump and tubing. I must say that the cpu block was absolutely clean on the inside.
Bought some distilled water and i found a tube Arctic Ceramic so used that. System is up and running again.

Same settings as yesterday. I really doubt something is broken.
I'm getting the same temps on my 24/7 4.6Ghz.

About tightening the screws. It's the only way how to do it. I have to use a screwdriver. I just tighten them until they can't go any further. That's what it says in the manual.

 

[trickson]

Ok update:

Because you guys made me feel bad I took the whole system apart.
Took me about 4 hours to clean and put it back together.
Cleaned everything! cpu block, fittings, res, pump and tubing. I must say that the cpu block was absolutely clean on the inside.
Bought some distilled water and i found a tube Arctic Ceramic so used that. System is up and running again.

Same settings as yesterday. I really doubt something is broken.
I'm getting the same temps on my 24/7 4.6Ghz.

http://i40.tinypic.com/2q9azok.png

About tightening the screws. It's the only way how to do it. I have to use a screwdriver. I just tighten them until they can't go any further. That's what it says in the manual.

Could you post up some pictures of your cooling setup ? I would like to see it as it is now every thing include Rads , tubing , WB and pump please ?

 

[technicks]

Hi technicks, my name is Alan and I am new here but I am not new to the world of building the most powerful gaming computers in the world , I have built rigs using Swiftech H20-330 Edge Kits for cooling and I have also used the enclosed water cooling kits. I have reached over 5.0GHZ on many builds since the 2600K was introduced, I also did 5GHz on the 980X with LGA 1366 boards using DIY water cooling. First you have to tell me exactly what water cooling parts you are using, from the rad right down to the pump and size of the tubing. The 2500K was not built to go over 5Ghz but it can with a few chips, all 2500K chips are not made equal, remember that, some unlocked multis will go to 49X and that it, some with go over 50X. Forget your Q9550, that old news, lets work on your 2500K and see what we can accomplish. First I need to know everything about your setup. Then I will make some suggestions for you.

Hello Alan. Welcome to TPU.
Everything you tell me i know, thats why i said you can't compare temps on 2500k's
I was just referring to the fact that i used my wc system to cool my Q9550 and never seen any temp rising over time due to the fact that there could be algae in the block or something....

@ Trickson. Here ya go! It's a pic from few weeks back when i removed the nb block out of the loop. It's exactly the same now.

 

[trickson]

One other thing I would like to point out to you . Get some water wetter . At your local Auto store . it is great stuff and will also help your temps go down .

 

[Chicken Patty]

( I hope I do not get in trouble for this )

I would never use a screwdriver to tighten the mounting screws ever . I would caution any one against doing this . It is a very sensitive area to say the least and adding too much pressure to the CPU and socket can and will lead to disastrous problems . I have done this before . You can bend the pins , warp the socket and even crack the MB ! If your current cooling is not doing the job then back off your OC and find a better solution . Always use your fingers and never over tighten you mounting screws ! EVER . Great job on your over clock I hope all goes well for you .

Yeah, I usually don't like using screwdrivers but depending on the block. In case of the Swiftech, it stops so you don't over-tighten it. However, when I had my S1366 Core i7 setup I would tighten my Swiftech block all the way down and then with the PC running and real temp displaying temps, I would start to little by little loosen all four screws and I would see temps drop at times up to 4-5ºc. So that's another thing he can try, maybe for some reason he doesn't need to tighten it all the way down. But yes, on some blocks, you cannot use a screwdriver. I can also say from experience.

Ok update:

Because you guys made me feel bad I took the whole system apart.
Took me about 4 hours to clean and put it back together.
Cleaned everything! cpu block, fittings, res, pump and tubing. I must say that the cpu block was absolutely clean on the inside.
Bought some distilled water and i found a tube Arctic Ceramic so used that. System is up and running again.

Same settings as yesterday. I really doubt something is broken.
I'm getting the same temps on my 24/7 4.6Ghz.

http://i40.tinypic.com/2q9azok.png

About tightening the screws. It's the only way how to do it. I have to use a screwdriver. I just tighten them until they can't go any further. That's what it says in the manual.

Question, how do you have your pump hooked up as far as power, to the motherboard or to the PSU? If it's to the motherboard then it might not be running at full speed and that would explain your temps.

 

[trickson]

Also what he is suggesting as well ^^^Ok one thing that I can not see in your loop . I would ( If you do not have it already ) is this , From the pump out let ( The top ) make that go into your WB first then the outlet to the rad . This may help but that setup is sweet and you should be getting way better temps than that . You may have bad temp sensors in the CPU .You may want to look into an RMA . Oh and it looks as if you have some dust clogging the top rad . Can you see it in the pic ???

 

[Chicken Patty]

Sweet setup indeed, just got around to seeing the picture. What trickson suggested is another option. However, if something was to be faulty it'll have to be the pump. If any other component in his loop was defective it would be noticeable. Not hte pump though, how will he tell if the pump is not running at full blast or not. I mean sure you can measure speed somehow and maybe for some with a lot of experience they will tell by maybe noticing it's a lot quieter than usual. I would begin by connecting it to the PSU if it isn't already.

technicks, have you tried using maybe core temp to check your temps, use a few different programs, make sure they all give the same or similar readings.

 

[technicks]

Pump is connected directly to the cpu. Like i said it's a picture from few weeks back. Rads are cleaned every few weeks to get the dust out.
You say the top is the outlet? I thought it's the one on the side. I could see because when i filled it up the water flowed in at the top. Also the air thats coming out escapes from the tube on the inside of the res.

 

[Chicken Patty]

Pump is connected directly to the cpu. Like i said it's a picture from few weeks back. Rads are cleaned every few weeks to get the dust out.
You say the top is the outlet? I thought it's the one on the side. I could see because when i filled it up the water flowed in at the top. Also the air thats coming out escapes from the tube on the inside of the res.

How is your pump connected power wise?

 

[technicks]

It's 12v connected with 2 wire molex on a normal molex from the psu.

 

[trickson]

Well then it is down too 2 things then the CPU or the pump . How does the flow look in you res ? I mean can you see a good amount of water swirling around or is it kind of low ?

 

[technicks]

Flow is there. I can see it circulating around the tube in the middle of it.

 

[trickson]

Well then the only other things I can think of are , There maybe an air bubble in the WB or the WB is clogged up some how or the CPU is just giving you bad readings . I know that this may suck to do . But what I would do if it were me . Is take the WB out of the loop take the WB completely apart clean if needed reinstall . Make sure that this time you spread a small layer of thermal past all over the IHS . I just do not know what it could be at this point other than this . That setup is really sweet and should give you way cooler temps than this .

 

[technicks]

I just did that. Took the waterblock apart and it was clean. I cleaned/rebuild my whole wc system today.
I think it's a combination of the waterblock not being good enough and the cpu running hot at that voltage. Or maybe you are right and the pump is degrading.

 

[trickson]

I just did that. Took the waterblock apart and it was clean. I cleaned/rebuild my whole wc system today.

Ok then there is some thing else going on here . Try using core temp and some other software then . Make sure that you are getting the same readings . Just like Chicken Patty said . The only other alternative would be to get a NEW CPU .

 

[erocker]

There are other chips similar to yours that are "hot" chips. It's pretty normal. The last picture you posted @ 4.6ghz the temps look normal. I also think that you have quite a bit of pressure drop in your loop the way it is setup. I think you would be better of just using the triple radiator as it will be much easier on the pump, which is already at a disadvantage being at the lowest point in the loop. I know a better CPU block would help a little with temps too.

 

[technicks]

Thanks. Thats what i want. I want the Lian Li bench and then only run the 360 rad.
That what i had in mind. Have to wait till i can get back to work next week to make some money.

 

[Solaris17]

Maybe if i feel a bit naughty tomorrow i will cut out the bottom of my case to fit the 360 rad in there. I only need to get some distilled water. Can get some thermal paste on Monday.

if your getting that temp adding another rad isnt going to fix it you are putting a band aid on it. not only are you just making the heat go some place else, your stressing the pump. your loop needs to be rebuilt. and probably reflowed maybe you have components in the wrong spot. id check the flow rate of that pump.

 

[technicks]

I was planning to mount the 360 rad i have on top to the bottom to reduce some tube length. Not add one!

 

[Solaris17]

I was planning to mount the 360 rad i have on top to the bottom to reduce some tube length. Not add one!

try re-bleeding. horizontal rads like that from experience dont bleed well. They sometimes have air at the top same with the one in the back. "but i bled them already" that my be true but iof their was air in the lines or pump it is not peacefully sitting in your rads. the easiest way to bleed them imo is to run the loop with the rads vertical and upside down it forces air out of the system. then imo I would reverse the flow make it go to the bigger rad first THEN the smaller one. and if you havent already set up a fan on the small one. and make it push-pull with the rear exaust helping it. and keep more water in that rez thats low. the more it swirls if the water level is low your making bubbles bubbles will then get sucked into the loop. you want to PREVENT hurricane force waves in your rez even if it looks cool.

 

[LagunaX]

Like erocker said - I concur that you may have a "hothead" 2500k - some are like that I have owned one myself.