- Joined
- Aug 16, 2005
- Messages
- 25,887 (3.79/day)
- Location
- Alabama
System Name | Rocinante |
---|---|
Processor | I9 14900KS |
Motherboard | EVGA z690 Dark KINGPIN (modded BIOS) |
Cooling | EK-AIO Elite 360 D-RGB |
Memory | 64GB Gskill Trident Z5 DDR5 6000 @6400 |
Video Card(s) | MSI SUPRIM Liquid X 4090 |
Storage | 1x 500GB 980 Pro | 1x 1TB 980 Pro | 1x 8TB Corsair MP400 |
Display(s) | Odyssey OLED G9 G95SC |
Case | Lian Li o11 Evo Dynamic White |
Audio Device(s) | Moondrop S8's on Schiit Hel 2e |
Power Supply | Bequiet! Power Pro 12 1500w |
Mouse | Lamzu Atlantis mini (White) |
Keyboard | Monsgeek M3 Lavender, Akko Crystal Blues |
VR HMD | Quest 3 |
Software | Windows 11 |
Benchmark Scores | I dont have time for that. |
Well my thermals on the ref design were like everyone elses and I kinda got tired of hitting 95C every time I wanted to watch a GIF So I decided to buy some MX-4 (after grilling prolimatech and noctua pastes) suck it up and get to work.
First the beautiful card shes hot in more ways then one ya dig?
Her top is cute she looks good in black.
XFX as well as others play hard to get and feel the need to include warranty stickers on the GPU clamp screws. These aren't normal stickers. They have a plastic kind of build and they crack and shatter when folded. To remedy this I used a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before removal.
I then took a razor blade to her under it. Tetanus included.
After I removed the GPU clamp it was time to get to work with the other screws holding the PCB to the cooler.
After taking the back screws off it was time to take the shroud off in traditional solaris style all of this was done in pajamas. philips size t00
she has her top off.....scandalous
the back of her shroud
Aluminum fins cover a copper base plate at this point unplug the fan.
Moving on we need to remove the last 2 screws on the front I/O panel that hold on to a brace beam connected to the cooler sub assembly.
hello my darlings
Mr. Bracebar now with 6 cups of coffee
The cooler is stuck on and requires some wiggling to get off. I slowly pry from the fan toward the center the PCB bends easily so be very careful prying or you could damage the card. After I got about toward the center I switched to the other side of the cooler and started to pry the whole process took around 5min and it popped off. Oh my 290X stop not here my GF is in the house. She could come in at any second.....Ok but quick.
The TIM used is dry to the touch and has the consistency of bubble gum. While their is good contact between the die and the cooler too much TIM was used and I will call the quality of the TIM into question as well.
The bottom of the cooler has the typical mem VRM and GPU VRM TIM pads as well as the memory pads. My particular card uses Elpida chips.
The close up of the block shows the spread the TIM used is hard to get off and I reccomend 90% alcohol and I had to borrow some acetone from my GF (polish remover) to get it clean. After most of the removal the alcohol (70%) just smeared it around.
The block surface is scarred up and while I expected better I have seen worse. I dont have the $$ atm for proper sand paper or I would have lapped it. I imagine that will help ALOT when I do.
Why buy expensive telescopes when the surface of mars is on your family room table?
After cleaning the core I grabbed my new tube of MX-4 and used the pea method.
My fan ramp is set to custom in after burner and its baseline is 50% with the fan speed ramping 1% for every 1ºC the GPU climbs.
My tests were done driving 2 monitors at stock clock speeds for my GPU
Idle:
Before- 50ºC
After- 48ºC
GPU-Z Render test 100% Load
Before- 88ºC
After- 71ºC
Unigine Heaven Benchmark (Max Temp)
DX 11
Ultra
Extreme
x8 AA
Full Screen
1600x1200
Before- 95ºC
After 77ºC
OCCT Stress Test
Before- 95ºC
After- 88ºC
I'm very pleased with the results. Throttling only happened 5 times in very short ~2 second bursts while running OCCT but did not throttle for the other tests. Instead of buying an aftermarket cooler I may tear it apart again to lap the cooler to a mirror finish and re measure my results from that. I'm more interested with the results from doing that then a new cooler.
Well it was fun
First the beautiful card shes hot in more ways then one ya dig?
Her top is cute she looks good in black.
XFX as well as others play hard to get and feel the need to include warranty stickers on the GPU clamp screws. These aren't normal stickers. They have a plastic kind of build and they crack and shatter when folded. To remedy this I used a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before removal.
I then took a razor blade to her under it. Tetanus included.
After I removed the GPU clamp it was time to get to work with the other screws holding the PCB to the cooler.
After taking the back screws off it was time to take the shroud off in traditional solaris style all of this was done in pajamas. philips size t00
she has her top off.....scandalous
the back of her shroud
Aluminum fins cover a copper base plate at this point unplug the fan.
Moving on we need to remove the last 2 screws on the front I/O panel that hold on to a brace beam connected to the cooler sub assembly.
hello my darlings
Mr. Bracebar now with 6 cups of coffee
The cooler is stuck on and requires some wiggling to get off. I slowly pry from the fan toward the center the PCB bends easily so be very careful prying or you could damage the card. After I got about toward the center I switched to the other side of the cooler and started to pry the whole process took around 5min and it popped off. Oh my 290X stop not here my GF is in the house. She could come in at any second.....Ok but quick.
The TIM used is dry to the touch and has the consistency of bubble gum. While their is good contact between the die and the cooler too much TIM was used and I will call the quality of the TIM into question as well.
The bottom of the cooler has the typical mem VRM and GPU VRM TIM pads as well as the memory pads. My particular card uses Elpida chips.
The close up of the block shows the spread the TIM used is hard to get off and I reccomend 90% alcohol and I had to borrow some acetone from my GF (polish remover) to get it clean. After most of the removal the alcohol (70%) just smeared it around.
The block surface is scarred up and while I expected better I have seen worse. I dont have the $$ atm for proper sand paper or I would have lapped it. I imagine that will help ALOT when I do.
Why buy expensive telescopes when the surface of mars is on your family room table?
After cleaning the core I grabbed my new tube of MX-4 and used the pea method.
My fan ramp is set to custom in after burner and its baseline is 50% with the fan speed ramping 1% for every 1ºC the GPU climbs.
My tests were done driving 2 monitors at stock clock speeds for my GPU
Idle:
Before- 50ºC
After- 48ºC
GPU-Z Render test 100% Load
Before- 88ºC
After- 71ºC
Unigine Heaven Benchmark (Max Temp)
DX 11
Ultra
Extreme
x8 AA
Full Screen
1600x1200
Before- 95ºC
After 77ºC
OCCT Stress Test
Before- 95ºC
After- 88ºC
I'm very pleased with the results. Throttling only happened 5 times in very short ~2 second bursts while running OCCT but did not throttle for the other tests. Instead of buying an aftermarket cooler I may tear it apart again to lap the cooler to a mirror finish and re measure my results from that. I'm more interested with the results from doing that then a new cooler.
Well it was fun