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Best liquid cpu cooler under 200 dollars.

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As the title says, im looking for a new cpu cooler, since i recently just got a new case, the CORSAIR 750d and am overclocking my cpu.
 
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almost all top model of any brand (Corsair Cooler Master Antec Enermax Silverstone NZXT) will cost less than 200$ (IE the H100i)
and they perform kinda same ... the Kraken 60 where i am cost 183.61$ and we pay more xD (i see the Kraken 60 at 135$ on newegg ... tsk)

or a H100i is 99.99 whereas i would have to pay 139.95
unless you want to do a custom WC loop 200$ can get you 2 top of the line AIO 240/280mm, tho 200$ for a custom loop would be a bit short

you can also go for a good Air cooler like the TR HR-02 Macho or any high end cooler since water is not completely mandatory for OC ...

edit: you have a H75 and you OC a 1100T and you need more than that, i see ... i used a 1090T with a H70 and OC with no problems of overheat. (yet the HR-02 Macho was better on that xD)
 
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You looking for a custom loop?

Which is the one that is like the Swiftech H220 that you cant get anymore?

I found it: Cooler Master Glacier 240L
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...er_Master_Glacier_240L-_-35-103-196-_-Product


and i thought it was a new type from CM that we can't find where i am ... it's just the Eisberg xD paaaaaaaaaaaah i hate more and more my retailer ... a Glacier 240L cost 129$ ... for me it's more 218$

but yes the Glacier 240XL would be the best out of those (as the H220 is out of the race)
 
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In my experience, the H100i was a piece of crap. Ran for 9 months and stopped.

Get a NHD14/PHTC14PE/Silverarrow/CryorigR1 or buy a full custom loop.
 
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almost all top model of any brand (Corsair Cooler Master Antec Enermax Silverstone NZXT) will cost less than 200$ (IE the H100i)
and they perform kinda same ... the Kraken 60 where i am cost 183.61$ and we pay more xD (i see the Kraken 60 at 135$ on newegg ... tsk)

or a H100i is 99.99 whereas i would have to pay 139.95
unless you want to do a custom WC loop 200$ can get you 2 top of the line AIO 240/280mm, tho 200$ for a custom loop would be a bit short

you can also go for a good Air cooler like the TR HR-02 Macho or any high end cooler since water is not completely mandatory for OC ...

edit: you have a H75 and you OC a 1100T and you need more than that, i see ... i used a 1090T with a H70 and OC with no problems of overheat. (yet the HR-02 Macho was better on that xD)

I don't know, at 3.7ghz i get around 47 - 52 degrees Celsius, at 3.8ghz at 1.37 volts it starts to get as hot as 59 degrees Celsius. So I can't overclock to 4.0ghz without it getting hotter than 60.
 
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I don't know, at 3.7ghz i get around 47 - 52 degrees Celsius, at 3.8ghz at 1.37 volts it starts to get as hot as 59 degrees Celsius. So I can't overclock to 4.0ghz without it getting hotter than 60.
Every chip is different. My 3770k runs hot, but requires very low voltage. So I can get to 4.8 on air with 1.39v, with max temps hitting around 85*C. But even lower speeds are quite hot, stock 3.7 with a 20*C ambient it maxes at 65*C under my PH-TC12DX. At daily 4.5 and 1.23v I reach 75*C. Other i7 3770k i have owned in the past haven't clocked over 4.3 but stock 3.7 max load temperature of only 50-60*C.
 
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The earlier Glacier 240XL pumps seem to have been failing at a high rate ,,,,Check out how many failures the Newegg reviewers have posted . Supposedly there is a newer revision of this pump with not as many pump failures.
 
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The earlier Glacier 240XL pumps seem to have been failing at a high rate ,,,,Check out how many failures the Newegg reviewers have posted . Supposedly there is a newer revision of this pump with not as many pump failures.
Thats the biggest problem with these closed loop coolers, if the pump fails the whole system could die, all it needs is to be under load and the liquid will boil, crack the block housing or the hoses and soak the circuitry.
 
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well evera corsair AIO are crap and overpriced imho ...
In my experience, the H100i was a piece of crap. Ran for 9 months and stopped.

Get a NHD14/PHTC14PE/Silverarrow/CryorigR1 or buy a full custom loop.

Thats the biggest problem with these closed loop coolers, if the pump fails the whole system could die, all it needs is to be under load and the liquid will boil, crack the block housing or the hoses and soak the circuitry.
the glacier(eisberg) isn't technically a closed loop or all custom loop are also closed loop :D
 
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I buy from mwave.com.au and i don't see the Glacier, Eisberg w.e coolers on the site. I would really much prefer an easy install like the H75 that i've got. I believe that the corsair h100 series are fairly easy to install, and atm am looking at the CORSAIR H105, what do you guys think about the H105? do you guys reckon it could cool a 8350 and perhaps future overclocking on the 8350 at under 60 degrees Celsius or the 9370 at stock speeds?
 
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I buy from mwave.com.au and i don't see the Glacier, Eisberg w.e coolers on the site. I would really much prefer an easy install like the H75 that i've got. I believe that the corsair h100 series are fairly easy to install, and atm am looking at the CORSAIR H105, what do you guys think about the H105? do you guys reckon it could cool a 8350 and perhaps future overclocking on the 8350 at under 60 degrees Celsius or the 9370 at stock speeds?

Don't bother its probably going to fail on you.


The Glacier has some pretty bad reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103196

Another failed Glacer 240L

Not worth the trouble

Run ... Far away from this!

Not the one to buy - dbl check

Proceed with Caution - Update

Failed after 6 mos

 

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I buy from mwave.com.au and i don't see the Glacier, Eisberg w.e coolers on the site. I would really much prefer an easy install like the H75 that i've got. I believe that the corsair h100 series are fairly easy to install, and atm am looking at the CORSAIR H105, what do you guys think about the H105? do you guys reckon it could cool a 8350 and perhaps future overclocking on the 8350 at under 60 degrees Celsius or the 9370 at stock speeds?

Hi mate, you checked out P.C. Case Gear? Its an Aussie site too.

Here bud: http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php...160_45&zenid=442e73f198c633bc0affab2faf268907
 
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Hmm yeah don't worry about the eisberg and glacier. I might go for one of the corsair, corsair is more reliable and they even have a 5 year warranty on their liquid cpu coolers. I don't want one Dieing on me or leaking all over my components destroying them lol.


EDIT: I prefer Mwave as well since it's in driving distance and if I wanted delivery it will arrive the next day.
 

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Hmm yeah don't worry about the eisberg and glacier. I might go for one of the corsair, corsair is more reliable and they even have a 5 year warranty on their liquid cpu coolers. I don't want one Dieing on me or leaking all over my components destroying them lol.


EDIT: I prefer Mwave as well since it's in driving distance and if I wanted delivery it will arrive the next day.

Ok mate no worries, just mvave didn't look like it had many options unless I wasn't searching properly.

Those Ray Storms didn't look like bad value under $200.

Good luck,

Cheers.
 
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i would prefer a good air system over a closed loop. but a decent real water cooling system is worth the effort if you get the biggest reservoir you can to go with it. in order of importance for me in a water cooling system is. water block needs to be good and substantial.. i prefer a thick copper base not crazy thick though. but not one of those blocks thats basically a copper shim screwed on to some acrylic.
reservoir needs to be separate to the radiator, separate to the pump and hold a lot of water,
Pump has to connect to molex/sata connector for power from the psu not from a fan header the pump can be a reservoir+pump type but does not mean you wouldn't want the a fore mentioned reservoir. and needs to move as much water as the pipes can handle.
radiator needs to be able to have 2x 120mm fans mounted to one side of it.
The only problem with that is even with a decent sized full atx case you can end up with needing to keep the reservoir outside the case. (unless you get a 2/3 bay 5.2" reservoir
And i also recommend putting a flow indicator on one of the pipes some where that you can see (need a clear side panel for that)

the only way you can really get the perfect water cooling system is to buy all the components separately.
the water block and the pump would be my main concern, followed by the radiator. those 3 items are what will cost the most.
The reservoir can be bought for less. if you have enough bays you can even buy 2. and hook them together.
you need to make sure that they will all work together with the same fittings.
and i do recommend having little stop taps that you can close off for when you want to drain the system.

not sure about what the prices are where you are, but over here in the uk a decent custom loop you built your self from parts would probably cost quite a bit more than $200

-=edit=-

went off to a water cooling sales people and the parts to make a reasonable custom loop without postage came out to about £180 which is a lot cheaper than it used to be.
thats pump reservoir rad fittings tubes but no fans 2x high pressure 120mm fans shouldn't take the overall figure above £210 though even if you wanted decent fans rather than some generic ones..
looking at it like that i cant see why any one would buy a closed loop..
 
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i would prefer a good air system over a closed loop. but a decent real water cooling system is worth the effort if you get the biggest reservoir you can to go with it. in order of importance for me in a water cooling system is. water block needs to be good and substantial.. i prefer a thick copper base not crazy thick though. but not one of those blocks thats basically a copper shim screwed on to some acrylic.
reservoir needs to be separate to the radiator, separate to the pump and hold a lot of water,
Pump has to connect to molex/sata connector for power from the psu not from a fan header the pump can be a reservoir+pump type but does not mean you wouldn't want the a fore mentioned reservoir. and needs to move as much water as the pipes can handle.
radiator needs to be able to have 2x 120mm fans mounted to one side of it.
The only problem with that is even with a decent sized full atx case you can end up with needing to keep the reservoir outside the case. (unless you get a 2/3 bay 5.2" reservoir
And i also recommend putting a flow indicator on one of the pipes some where that you can see (need a clear side panel for that)

the only way you can really get the perfect water cooling system is to buy all the components separately.
the water block and the pump would be my main concern, followed by the radiator. those 3 items are what will cost the most.
The reservoir can be bought for less. if you have enough bays you can even buy 2. and hook them together.
you need to make sure that they will all work together with the same fittings.
and i do recommend having little stop taps that you can close off for when you want to drain the system.

not sure about what the prices are where you are, but over here in the uk a decent custom loop you built your self from parts would probably cost quite a bit more than $200

-=edit=-

went off to a water cooling sales people and the parts to make a reasonable custom loop without postage came out to about £180 which is a lot cheaper than it used to be.
thats pump reservoir rad fittings tubes but no fans 2x high pressure 120mm fans shouldn't take the overall figure above £210 though even if you wanted decent fans rather than some generic ones..
looking at it like that i cant see why any one would buy a closed loop..
Ah man it all sounds abit too complicated, like I said I would really much prefer something easy to install like the h75, but thanks for your suggestion. Maybe one day I may consider it, now that I have this very good gaming case.

EDIT: I previously had the coolermaster hyper 212 evo, even though it was doing a pretty good job at cooling my cpu, every single time I had to take it off and put it back on, I found it to be a real big big serious pain in the ass to install back in. The h75 on the other hand was a lot easier than I expected, and atm loving it so far, besides the fact that its not performing well enough for me to overclock my cpu further. So I'm planning on getting a new cooler to overclock further, or maybe buy a new cpu like the 8350 and keep my h75, but I won't really be able to overclock it much I'm guessing. I'm also thinking about the fx9370, and believe that it requires liquid cooling, and as I said I'm still looking at the corsair h100 series. So far I'm quite interested in the H105.
 
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9370 under a TR HR-02 Macho Rev.a B/W would also be fine ... Scythe Ashura too TR Silver arrow or any high end air cooler.

i will get a 8320 (10-12days) in the beginning i will OC it under a Scythe Katana 4 (so you are underestimating your H75 even if it is corsair ... )

maybe later i will try a Seidon 240L or a Silverstone thundra ... but since i make a ATX build instead of a µATX a air cooler could be technically good
i think getting back to Macho or Ashura, for instance my i7-920 OC from 2.6 to 4.1 had no problems at all under a Macho, also tried it under a H70 with 2 good 120mm ... the macho was almost better (-1/2°~) if you have the space : a monster air cooler is allways good, as Vario said : NHD14/PHTC14PE/Silverarrow/CryorigR1 (to that i add the Macho and the Raijintek Ereboss because they are way cheaper than a NHD14 or a PHTC14PE and perform kinda same)
 

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Don't bother its probably going to fail on you.


The Glacier has some pretty bad reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103196

Another failed Glacer 240L

Not worth the trouble

Run ... Far away from this!

Not the one to buy - dbl check

Proceed with Caution - Update

Failed after 6 mos

Not sure what folks are doing with these H220/Glacer 240L kits- mine had an issue with the impeller sticking and Swiftech sent me a revised/upgraded impeller. I swapped it in 10 minutes and the thing has been running flawless ever since (24/7 full load most of the time).

EDIT- the H220/240L pump internals are fairly beefy too:

Ceramic shaft, massive magnet, large 9 vane impeller, etc...

The revised impeller is on the right (the holes look to be the only revision)
 
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Corsair ones are very good and look clean. You will see them in a lot of builds. H100i (2x120mm) is good and all. It looks nice and has all the digital features. However, the H110 takes advantage of the large fan holes (using 2x140mm) giving you better cooling.
 
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What about the h105, some are telling me it's the best out of the h100 series.
 
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What about the h105, some are telling me it's the best out of the h100 series.
the only problem with corsair is : they cost more than what the other gives .... ie: H100i versus Seidon 240/H80 versus Seidon 120L/H60 versus Seidon 120v (for CM, for Silverstone NZXT Antec Enermax ... it's not so different.)
digital management? do you really need that gimmick? well the H110 in 280mm is not bad but a Nepton 280L will be better... oh wait no a Nepton 280L is 4$ more than a H110 (well .... quality build ... quality build ... my H60 and H70 did fail after 5month... my Seidon 120v did not ...) promo price 114.99 for the H110 and 119.99 for the 280L but the H110 is known to be priced at +130$ which is the price of a high end open loop AIO

Corsair were good ... when they were alone with the AIO business (since no alternative)
 
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When you say failed. It just stopped working or started leaking? They come with a 5 year warranty so meh..
 
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If you can get it, then go for the Swiftech H320 (or even H220) in push-pull. Better than every AIO out there.
 
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Nah, nabarun dont think I can, I rather get things closer to where I live, that way if there's anything wrong, it will be easier to deal with. So back to back to my question, what do you guys reckon about the h105
 
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