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Ryzen 2700x OC air cooling and a scratched heatsync base.

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Hi all. I've been busting my ass installing and reinstalling my CPU cooler hoping to get better temps than I have been. Maybe my expectations are too high.


I replaced the stock cooler a) because it's really loud when it's effective and b) because I figured I could get more from a massive heatsync. Enter the Cooler Master MA620P. It's huge, It has good fans, and 6 heat pipes vs the 4 pipes on the stock cooler. Not to mention its almost 4x the surface area of the stock cooler.

In the end the temps Im getting arent as good as I expected...

As I remounted the cooler for the 4th time I decided to look closer. I did notice scratch/deformity in the base of the MA620p and I wondering if it's been part of the problem.

I should also mention that I've tried a few different methods of applying the TIM and Ive tried the included CM Master Gel and AS5.

What temps should I expect when running the CPUz stress test or Prime95 Small FFTs?



Here's a photo of the base for consideration.
 

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eidairaman1

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Send it back for a Scythe
 

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That scratch looks nasty, but shouldn't really impact performance all that much unless it is deep enough to ruin the heatpipe. What are your before/after temps? Also, note that prime95 is pretty stressful (especially with AVX) so it'll cook your CPU pretty good. Here's two screenshots of coretemp: the first represents what I'd call "normal" load. It's just WCG at 100%. The second is prime95 (avx). Notice the ~30w higher power consumption and higher temps.
 

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That scratch looks nasty, but shouldn't really impact performance all that much unless it is deep enough to ruin the heatpipe. What are your before/after temps? Also, note that prime95 is pretty stressful (especially with AVX) so it'll cook your CPU pretty good. Here's two screenshots of coretemp: the first represents what I'd call "normal" load. It's just WCG at 100%. The second is prime95 (avx). Notice the ~30w higher power consumption and higher temps.

Admittedly, I wasnt that thorough with recording before temps but I was monitoring them onscreen while gaming and benching. I can tell you what Im seeing now temp wise and it's only ~4-5c better than the stock cooler. Ignoring prime95 results... Running Cinebench @ 4.2 Ghz 1.35v I hit 85c and CPUz stress test looks to hit around the same.
 

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Any idwa how many hp touch the ihs?
 
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That'd be a big fat...NON-ISSUE...in my book. I mean...I probably wouldn't like it...but I'd get over the thought of it pretty quick. Because I'd bet it makes no measurable/observable difference whatsoever in terms of cooling performance. Shit...the surface finish on those pipes is HORRID anyway. Not that that matters too much either. But that little scratch can't be making things too much worse. Use some top of the line TIM and forget it.
 
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I agree, the finish quality of the whole base is quite poor.
 

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What stock cooler, wraithripper? It's supposed to be quite good, but not sure how good exactly... I haven't seen any test that compares it to other coolers. Still, 85c is kinda scary... especially when we're talking cpuz "stress test" which doesn't push my system any harder than WCG, so even prime95 produces higher temps.
 
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Wraith Prism? Its not bad, just loud.
 

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It doesn't look like it should only be 5c better than the Wraith Prism. Maybe the old cooler was throttling? IIRC, 4.2GHz @ 1.35v is quite a lot for these chips...
 

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A scratch doesn't matter much, if not at all. Never seen a direct touch heatsink to be lapped, those have always less or more scratches, that's not the problem.
 
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@hat No thottling on either cooler. I should mention my clocks were locked across all cores. No boosting of any nature. From what I've read some people and sites are needing 1.42v+ for anything over 4.2. I dont even think mines stable until 1.37v at 4.2. The gamers nexus article about Ryzens vcore to clock scaling is a good read.
 
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My Hyper 212+ had a nice sized gouge into one of the middle heatpipes and lapping looked as well done as OP.
 
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Looks like my last effort remounting the HS is producing better results but I need to test more before I decide to keep this unit or dump it for a 240/280 Aio.

I clocked down to 4ghz 1.29v and despit not breaking 55c while playing Destiny (fairly CPU intensive) I still feel like the heat from CPU isn't transferring to the HS very well, or as well as I hoped.
 

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Looks like my last effort remounting the HS is producing better results but I need to test more before I decide to keep this unit or dump it for a 240/280 Aio.

I clocked down to 4ghz 1.29v and despit not breaking 55c while playing Destiny (fairly CPU intensive) I still feel like the heat from CPU isn't transferring to the HS very well, or as well as I hoped.

The direct contact units tend to be uneven. Better to have a base plate model
 
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You mean direct contact to the heat pipes vs having a solid block mounted to the his?
 

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You mean direct contact to the heat pipes vs having a solid block mounted to the his?

Solid block tends to stay even. Look at my cooler for example.
 
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If it were me, I'd get some 2000 grit sand paper and lap the bottom of it. However as is, it should not allow the CPU to get above the high 70's under load without an OC, unless your case has bad airflow, which based on your specs, it shouldn't. With your above stated OC, only liquid cooling is going to keep those temps below 80c under load. Drop your OC to 4GHZ and the voltage shouldn't need to go higher than 1.3ish volts which will drop your temps a decent margin.
 
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@lexluthermiester Thanks, I'll probably do that if I do decide to keep it.

Update: 4000mhz 1.3v, i ran prim95 small fft until temps leveled out and at stayed at 70c. I guess i cant say im disappointed with that. Ill be lapping the base anyway since its terrible looking. I cant imagine that it wont help even a little.
 

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Be careful lapping HDT coolers. The pipes are thin and lapping them only makes them thinner... potentially not good things could happen.
 
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Be careful lapping HDT coolers. The pipes are thin and lapping them only makes them thinner... potentially not good things could happen.
This is true, special care is required. However, with 2000grit sandpaper it should be ok.
 

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You won't be taking very much off with 2000 grit either, though... so it could still be quite scratchy.
 
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I figured from the depth of that gouge without actually having penetrated the pipe there must be some thickness to the wall there either way even a minor superficial shining can be an improvement to that surface.
 
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You won't be taking very much off with 2000 grit either, though... so it could still be quite scratchy.
If it's done with a wetting agent like water or a mild oil, 2000grit work really well. It just takes longer than 1500 grit would.

I figured from the depth of that gouge without actually having penetrated the pipe there must be some thickness to the wall there either way even a minor superficial shining can be an improvement to that surface.
That's what I was thinking too. Then again that gouge goes at an angle through the pipe so it might not be as thick as it appears.
 
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