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Radeon VII with Bykski Waterblock.

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Just received the Bykski waterblock today and installed it on my Radeon VII.

Here is the data from the Render test built into the latest version of GPU-Z
Here is the data at stock settings (Wattman at manual)

I have been running the Render test for @15 minutes.
These are max readings

GPU clock 1803 Mhz
Mem Clock 1015 Mhz
UVD clock 33 Mhz
VCE clock 33Mhz
GPU Temp 42C
GPU Temp(hotspot)56C
Mem Temp 45C
GPU VRM Temp 44C
SOC VRM Temp 40C
Mem1 VRM temp 41c
Mem2 VRM temp 42C
GPU load 100%
Mem Controller load 25%
Mem Used Dedicated 634MB
Mem Used Dynamic 131MB
GPU only Power Draw 206W
GPU Voltage 1.1V
Mem Voltage .850V

To say I'm thrilled is an understatement.
 
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Looks good! What size radiator are you using?

I ordered the EK block for my VII and will be using an XSPC EX360 radiator with 6x Arctic static pressure fans.
 
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So is it running at higher clocks on its own thanks to the extra thermal room?
 
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YOU bet. I switch to my MO-RA3 420 pro rad and I w2as able to run Firestrike at 2100 core
 
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I got my EK block in and set up a few days ago. I didn't notice any extra clock speed from standard settings, but temps look great. I settled (for now) at 1875 core (975mv) and 1100 memory with hot spot temps never reaching over 50c (in furmark torture) and never over 45-46c in actual gaming; gpu/mem/vrms stay around 31-35c. Running the video card alone in the loop with an XSPC EX360 radiator and 3x Arctic static pressure fans at ~1500rpm.
 
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Ive been able to run 3D Mark benchmarks at 2115 core clock with the Bykski water block. Occasionally I can do a run at 2118.
 
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JayzTwoCents tested the EK water block with similar results. (my) Conclusion? AMD continues to under cool their GPU's.
 
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JayzTwoCents tested the EK water block with similar results. (my) Conclusion? AMD continues to under cool their GPU's.
It has more to do with the fact that the Radeon VII is a 300W card stock, which is higher than any nVidia FE.
 
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It has more to do with the fact that the Radeon VII is a 300W card stock, which is higher than any nVidia FE.
So the cooler has nothing to do with with how hot the GPU runs, only how many watts the GPU uses? That's an absurd assertion. The card runs hot. The card is loud, second only to, you guessed it, another AMD GPU. the Vega 64. And average gaming power consumption is actually lower than the GTX 2080 Ti.
 
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So the cooler has nothing to do with with how hot the GPU runs, only how many watts the GPU uses? That's an absurd assertion. The card runs hot. The card is loud, second only to, you guessed it, another AMD GPU. the Vega 64. And average gaming power consumption is actually lower than the GTX 2080 Ti.
The simple reason that semiconductors eventually converts almost all of its power consumption as heat.
More power consumption = more heat.
Also the Radeon VII is a significantly smaller die, meaning it is has much higher thermal density than the 2080 ti and also less surface area to conduct heat.
All of these factors makes it harder to cool even if you somehow slap the 2080 ti cooler on it.

Radeon VII


RTX 2080 TI FE




Edit: I do agree that the cooler is too loud on the Radeon VII though.
 
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I think if you have your RVII tweaked a bit it isn't that loud. Watched a video about it and when you undervolt it a bit and dial down the fan curve it's in reasonable level of noise and temps are same basically. All in all you have to do the tweaking to achieve it but it's possible.

Regarding the RVII.
Does it matter which brand you use for the water blocks to achieve the 2.1 GHz frequency? I know there's a chip lottery at stake here to have best results but still. Also in terms of the temperature does it matter which brand it is or is the RVII's totally same just with a different vendor sticker on it and the box it comes in is different? Wonder if there's a noticeable difference.
 
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Regarding the RVII.
Does it matter which brand you use for the water blocks to achieve the 2.1 GHz frequency? I know there's a chip lottery at stake here to have best results but still. Also in terms of the temperature does it matter which brand it is or is the RVII's totally same just with a different vendor sticker on it and the box it comes in is different? Wonder if there's a noticeable difference.
Every single Radeon VII out there are reference cards, so they should be exactly the same.
It is all just silicon lottery.
 
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Had to RMA my gpu:(
 
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So you bought an expensive card, modified it from stock, and overclocked it, then expect an RMA when something goes wrong?
No sympathy from me.
It might be harsh, but not many other industries allow that sort of behaviour and replace items.
 
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It didn't die from overclocking or too much current. I can pretty much guarantee you that. Physical damage from the modification? Or, rather, faulty application of such. That's about a million times more likely.
 
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So you bought an expensive card, modified it from stock, and overclocked it, then expect an RMA when something goes wrong?
No sympathy from me.
It might be harsh, but not many other industries allow that sort of behaviour and replace items.

Not looking for sympathy, just keeping readers posted.
 
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Likely some overly hot temps for junction that might have caused it to die. A few weeks into the EK water block being on my VII and I'm seeing junction temps of 90c (at 1925MHz core with 1020mv) in Furmark when it never went over 56-57c when the block was first on using the same test with the same settings. Even dropping back to 1800MHz with 950mv, junction temps sit around 75-80c. Going to be taking the block off to see what the deal is.
 
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Likely some overly hot temps for junction that might have caused it to die. A few weeks into the EK water block being on my VII and I'm seeing junction temps of 90c (at 1925MHz core with 1020mv) in Furmark when it never went over 56-57c when the block was first on using the same test with the same settings. Even dropping back to 1800MHz with 950mv, junction temps sit around 75-80c. Going to be taking the block off to see what the deal is.

Where exactly is that junction? Physically I mean.
 
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No one actually knows as far as I have been able to tell, but I haven't spent weeks of research time on it either.
 
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No one actually knows as far as I have been able to tell, but I haven't spent weeks of research time on it either.

From what I am seeing at overclockerUK, I am assuming you switched from Graphite pad like the stock one to thermal paste? That maybe why your junction temp is going up with thermal paste unable to provide adequate contact over time.
 
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That's exactly what I was thinking. I used Noctua NT-H1, and with the high temps of the hot spot area, it likely dried out and is no longer conducting properly in whatever area that hot spot is in, which is also likely what happened with OP and the reason for the RMA. I am having an incredibly hard time figuring out where to buy the Hatachi HM03 graphite pad that AMD used on the stock cooler (mine tore as it seems is the case when removing it) and I'll likely be swapping to Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in the short term as it doesn't dry out at least up to temps of 80c, and with the hot spot temp only hovering around 65-67c in Furmark before the issue occurred, it will likely be ok. I have some graphite thermal pads that I use for CPU's, but I don't know how well it would work with the uneven surface of the GPU/HBM stack since they are a much thinner layer than the pad that came with the stock cooler.

Edit 1: Added pics of the card fresh off the block with previous paste.

Edit 2: So I ended up just using the thin style graphite pad I had; with the paste that was in the pic (again NT-H1), I was seeing junction temps with Furmark running (xtreme burn in, max burn settings etc) at 1280x720 with 8xAA running at 170-180fps at stock settings (1800 core, 1000 memory) at 960mv with 0% power level adjustment, running around 90-92c

With the thin graphite pad, I'm running the same Furmark test at 1925 core, 1100 memory with 1020mv and +20% power level, and I'm seeing 89-92c; at the stock settings with 960mv, junction sits around 82-85c. So the thin pad isn't making contact that was on par with fresh paste, but it also will not have the same deterioration issues as the paste. Until I can get my hands on one of the stock style Hitachi HM03 pads, this will have to do. The temps while running games is always considerably lower, so I'm not too worried with the setup now. I'll keep monitoring temps to see if anything changes.

Edit 3: Ran a double loop of 3D Mark Time Spy stress test at 1925/1100 with 1020mv / +20% power level. Max hot spot/junction temp = 71c | Max GPU temp = 44c | Max Memory temp = 44c
As long as it stays within these margins, I think it'll be fine until I can get my hands on the HM03 replacement pad.

Edit 4: Ran Division 2 for the last 40ish minutes and just ran around doing random stuff to put a normal amount of load on the card. Max hot spot/junction temp = 71c | Max GPU temp = 43c | Max Memory temp = 43c | Max GPU frequency = 2056MHz (no idea how this happened, it's set at 1925MHz) | Max Mem frequency = 1190MHz (again, not sure why/how as it is set at 1100)
 

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First, my wife of 45 years and I have a deal. She doesn't ask what I spend on computer parts and I don't ask what she spends at Talbot's on clothes or on shoes etc:D

Second, I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and was liberal with it to be sure there was coverage.

Third, I was careful with overclocks. Nothing crazy or prolonged. I was noticing problems when playing online games such as COD WWII. I would start the game and would have the computer freeze or reboot. Tried other Video cards and all worked well. I took off the waterblock and replaced it with the original heatsink but experienced the same problem regardless of the rig I was running it in.

Thus the RMA.
 
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