Hotglue a AIO onto a GPU

[Jism]

Ok, this sounds relatively stupid, but i'm sure i'll be the first coming up with this idea. I have hacked a AIO 240mm CPU cooler onto my GPU using tiewraps and all that. Over time, the tiewraps tend to get hard, they stretch and slowly lose their mounting pressure. It's proberly due to the heat shifting up and down.

My plan was, to actually start hotglue the AIO waterblock onto the GPU, starting at the edge (typical on the metal strips) and finalize it with a new fresh pair of Tiewraps.

The most concern, is the heat from the GPU, that is able to bring the hotglue into a molten condition again, with a risk of dripping or letting go sort of say. Any advice? lol. This will be the last mod done to the card, i really dont care if it survives or not, i was planning to upgrade eventually.

When it had the correct mounting pressure it held the GPU down to barely 55 degrees on a 260W furmark session, which is outstanding. The noise can be very low at typical gaming and the rad is cooled by 2 different fans.

 

[shovenose]

It's gonna melt off the first time you fire up a game. Buy metal zip ties at an auto parts store.

 

[MIRTAZAPINE]

I suggest maybe a long m4 screw instead with bolts and rubber washer on the psb to prevent scratches? I did that with a heat sink cooler for cpu that are incompatible should work fine with gpu too.

 

[jaggerwild]

They make contact adhesive for Thermal interface material, not sure who makes it but I have some I bought before. Only down side is it is Very hard to remove the block once it is set in place.

 

[MrGRiMv25]

If it's never going to come off again then Arctic Silver do a thermal adhesive that's permanent, works a treat but once set it's pretty much on there forever haha.

 

[TheMadDutchDude]

Just use bolts so that you can remove it down the line.

 

[Vario]

For clarification: So your current solution has issues with the plastic ties becoming elongated when they heat up, so you are going to pick as a substitute a glue that liquifies when it is heated.

 

[Hockster]

It doesn't only sound stupid.......

 

[utilizedamplitude]

Why not get a https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g10-black

You can most likely move it to your next GPU.

If I was trying to be really cheap; I'd use thick strong wire and tighten it by twisting the ends with pliers. I'd also use some silicon form the hardware store to insulate the metal preventing any shorts from happening.

 

[eidairaman1]

If it's never going to come off again then Arctic Silver do a thermal adhesive that's permanent, works a treat but once set it's pretty much on there forever haha.

You mix it with AS5 compound, 50/50 or 60/40 (epoxy/compound) to make it semi permanent (requires some mild mechanical force to remove)

 

[Jism]

For clarification: So your current solution has issues with the plastic ties becoming elongated when they heat up, so you are going to pick as a substitute a glue that liquifies when it is heated.

Yes.

Now that i think of it, it'll be straight on the copper plate of the waterblock, which is'nt really a good idea knowing the heat is being distributed, and could potentially soften or even melt the hotglue substance.

 

[Vario]

Yes.

Now that i think of it, it'll be straight on the copper plate of the waterblock, which is'nt really a good idea knowing the heat is being distributed, and could potentially soften or even melt the hotglue substance.

I agree with Johnny05, Seems to me, you could figure out a way to mount it with an insulated solid core copper wire twist. Don't know an appropriate gauge off the top of my head. Maybe 10 AWG that would be ~2.6mm diameter. Whatever fits through the holes. Thicker is better so it stays bent. The issue is you don't want to gouge the board if you over tighten it, but if you don't tighten it enough it will loosen.

Bolts might be the best way but it might be hard to get it aligned to match.

You could do like I did and just use an Arctic Mono Plus they are like $30.