Getting tired of AMD RX graphic cards won't stop flickering or just plain stupidly hot 80+ degrees Celsius.

[PatrioTFreedom45]

I think this Worst product that I ever had. flashing or flickering while playing games or just plain stupidly hot even with brand new fans. Making my gaming PC CPU unhappy. No it's the PC case, after fabricating drilling holes for and back and all the panels off, it doesn't matter it's still really hot. Fully updated driver last Monday and still b.s. . Very fustrating.

 

[eidairaman1]

Did you not replace the thermalpaste, what about the power supply and what about the defective fan!?

 

[IceShroom]

Is your monitor power cable and video cable is ok? Also is your monitor ok? My friend has flickering on his monitor because of faulty power cable and he is running on Intel UHD 630.

 

[eidairaman1]

Is your monitor power cable and video cable is ok? Also is your monitor ok? My friend has flickering on his monitor because of faulty power cable and he is running on Intel UHD 630.

See here

XFX AMD RX 570 Flickering Durning Gaming/Wobble Fan repair

Hello there. I have a kinda important question. I have a XFX AMD RX 570 and one of the fans is wolbleing and sometimes making noice. And the temperature is 90.9 ° C Degrees. Which I'm not sure if this is good temperature for this graphic card. It seems a little bit too hot in my opinion. Im...

www.techpowerup.com

 

[PatrioTFreedom45]

Did you not replace the thermalpaste, what about the power supply and what about the defective fan!?

I'm getting the Paste it coming in the mail is on its way artic mx-4 paste. 13.00$ plus 4$ in shipping USA dollars on eBay might take 3 to 4 days to come. Since computer stores are very far away in Kentucky, 50 miles. I'll just order online and put up the computer gaming controller, just watch movies for now unfortunately . About that PSU volts that you mentioned on 12v rail before my browser went crazy and self deleted everything I texted before. Well yes I noticed it I think yesterday. I have approx 11.156 to 11.597 volts at the most. And my GPU wattage it fluctuating Alot from 13 to 150 watts during heavy OCCT software testing. That kinda telling me that this crappy PSU is worthless to use on graphic card like this one. 13 watts is when the game flickering and driver crashes- 150 watts is when before it falls to driver crashes and then nothing but a solid green screen after it falls to 13 watts. The GPU requireds and recommended to have PSU watts at 500 for this XFX AMD RX 570 and 12.700 volts. I'm using a Most horrible Cooler Master 500watts Brand on the planet. Which says falsely a 600 watts. Now I will never buy Cooler Master products ever again. About that replacement of power supply I'm waiting on more cash Saturday first and after gas 100 mile round trip it depends on tommorow gas prices here in Kentucky that I'll order the thermalake PSU I found on eBay 77.99 working on getting it. I was going to get the XFX but someone bought it.


One question of the day is
I have bought 2 hard drives with this build and one went out in first two weeks and the other is reallocate count is 100 in four months. I'm wondering if this PSU is also causing my hard to fail , maybe stortout or something. Is it that possible, ? And just to think about would that also effects my GPU and PC cooling because the PSU is underperforming.?

Thanks.

 

[Vayra86]

Holy shit dude.

Just scrap the whole build already and start over. This sounds like an infinite shithole of problems you will never fix. And if you want my advice... just buy a prebuilt rig. Are those actual holes you drilled in the front of your case? Your summary reads like nothing ever worked proper, you just might have thought it did for a little while.

Toss this money pit away and next thing you buy, don't touch it, just USE it.

I seriously dread the moment you replace your thermal paste and suggest you do not. Take the PC to a shop and get it looked at, or just put it up for sale for some hobbyist to salvage what's left.

 

[Bones]

Been running my Rad VII since March of last year and it's had no problems and that includes while folding.

Doesn't look to me to be an AMD thing like the thread title suggests, more of (To be honest here) a poorly executed build in regards to it's cooling setup/layout.
I don't know if the OP themselves built it or not but something just isn't right about it all.

@PatrioTFreedom45 How about a few pics of the interior of the case from different angles?
That will show us how the fans in the case are setup and so on, seeing all that we may spot something of use/value to suggest.
EDIT: disregard the above suggestion - Just saw the other thread with it's pics.

 

[DeathtoGnomes]

Not sure what case that is ( looks old), but if you are modding it to get more airflow, I suggest looking up videos on how to mod in a fan, I think MNPC Tech did a couple. While its fun to learn to mod cases, its not for everyone.

its easier to buy a better case.

 

[Bones]

The OP has the right idea in mind, I'm just wondering WHAT the setup inside the case is related to the number of fans, how they are setup and so on.
Even though the GPU is getting hot, could be the exact cause of it stuttering may be a CPU that's overheating too, causing throttling under load.

Noted the CPU is getting Nice-N-Warm itself in his pics and don't know if that's at idle or under load.
HWmonitor can monitor things while it's actually in use and show how hot it all gets during gaming and so on.

EDIT: Just spotted the other thread, the setup itself looks good and as was said there the damage could already be done.

 

[Vya Domus]

Has drill holes in the case to improve the dismal airflow and complains about temperatures because the GPU is terrible . Come on, I can't even tell if this is for real or just trolling.

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

I think this Worst product that I ever had. flashing or flickering while playing games or just plain stupidly hot even with brand new fans. Making my gaming PC CPU unhappy. No it's the PC case, after fabricating drilling holes for and back and all the panels off, it doesn't matter it's still really hot. Fully updated driver last Monday and still b.s. . Very fustrating.

80 degrees is not too hot anyway, ALL GPU run hot in use and all can work upto 90-95 ,polaris doesnt downclock until it hits 80, it is fine, put vsync on ,increase fan speed, buy a console .

 

[EarthDog]

Two threads is confusing.... why the original (the one with information people are asking about here and was active before this thread was created) was closed and this wasn't merged with the existing one, I'll have no idea.

Heres the original for those wanting the whole story before replying - https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...ring-durning-gaming-wobble-fan-repair.263915/


Anyway, OP,
1. Power fluctuating like that has nothing to do with your PSU. That isnt normal.
2. 80C temps under load is normal and ok for video cards...

Sounds like the GPU is about to crap out to me...

Try taking the side of the case off blowing a house fan into it. Temps should be lower. If it nkr your paste update doesnt change the behavior, I'd consider scrapping it.

 

[Chrispy_]

Running decade old parts (or older, in the case of that PSU) in a hotbox with most of the fans disconnected and no thermal paste? This thread is a perfect demonstration of how to torture hardware until it breaks, though it does sound like most of it is broken already.

For an RX570 and FX processor you are going to need:

1. A NEW modern 80+ power supply. Not used and abused from facebook/craigslist/ebay. In my experience, a lot of used PSUs are often being flipped because someone's system is unstable and they suspect the PSU may not be good enough.
2. A case with unrestricted intake/exhaust fan bays and all fans working at >1000RPM under CPU and GPU load. You probably only need 1 intake and 1 exhaust but that case looks completely unsuitable. The holes you've drilled have changed it from "completely useless" to "still completely useless". If you can't change the case, cut out a huge hole in front of the fans so that there is NO plastic in front of the fans at all.
3. Thermal paste. It is never optional.
4. The patience to test each component one at a time.

I don't know how much you paid for this but you said in your other thread that it was only 6 months old. The newest thing in there is from 2017 and some of it is probably 15 years old and was likely found by a recycling company and then resold on facebook/craigslist/ebay. I throw out stuff better than that every day because it's no longer worth selling and even if it works, it doesn't have much lifespan or relevance to modern computing.

What is your budget for trying to get this working? You're in the US so you should be able to get parts ordered from reputable places at decent pricing.

I mean, I'd start by getting a stable platform you can build on - so a motherboard that isn't a decade old and that hasn't been cooked for the last six months. Pair that with a decent 80+ Gold certified power supply and throw in stopgap CPU (that's still vastly better than your FX-4300) and 1x8GB to get you up and running (with room to upgrade to 2x8GB if you have budget later).

System Builder

pcpartpicker.com

Use that stable platform to test whether your RX570 is actually okay or not, and whatever you do, don't risk ruining new hardware by connecting any of it to that PSU. Any damage to your current hardware is likely to be the fault of that nasty PSU you're currently using. The case should be fine as long as you're happy to either run with the front panel off entirely, or cutting out much more material.

 

[eidairaman1]

I'm getting the Paste it coming in the mail is on its way artic mx-4 paste. 13.00$ plus 4$ in shipping USA dollars on eBay might take 3 to 4 days to come. Since computer stores are very far away in Kentucky, 50 miles. I'll just order online and put up the computer gaming controller, just watch movies for now unfortunately . About that PSU volts that you mentioned on 12v rail before my browser went crazy and self deleted everything I texted before. Well yes I noticed it I think yesterday. I have approx 11.156 to 11.597 volts at the most. And my GPU wattage it fluctuating Alot from 13 to 150 watts during heavy OCCT software testing. That kinda telling me that this crappy PSU is worthless to use on graphic card like this one. 13 watts is when the game flickering and driver crashes- 150 watts is when before it falls to driver crashes and then nothing but a solid green screen after it falls to 13 watts. The GPU requireds and recommended to have PSU watts at 500 for this XFX AMD RX 570 and 12.700 volts. I'm using a Most horrible Cooler Master 500watts Brand on the planet. Which says falsely a 600 watts. Now I will never buy Cooler Master products ever again. About that replacement of power supply I'm waiting on more cash Saturday first and after gas 100 mile round trip it depends on tommorow gas prices here in Kentucky that I'll order the thermalake PSU I found on eBay 77.99 working on getting it. I was going to get the XFX but someone bought it.


One question of the day is
I have bought 2 hard drives with this build and one went out in first two weeks and the other is reallocate count is 100 in four months. I'm wondering if this PSU is also causing my hard to fail , maybe stortout or something. Is it that possible, ? And just to think about would that also effects my GPU and PC cooling because the PSU is underperforming.?

Thanks.

Get a link to the specific thermaltake power supply, they are a hit and miss too

 

[Regeneration]

Third screenshot, GPU reached 91c degrees. That's not good.

Make sure the heatsink is properly installed, with thermal paste and all, and there is enough cooling / airflow in the case.

Consider buying aftermarket VGA cooler.

 

[eidairaman1]

I'm getting the Paste it coming in the mail is on its way artic mx-4 paste. 13.00$ plus 4$ in shipping USA dollars on eBay might take 3 to 4 days to come. Since computer stores are very far away in Kentucky, 50 miles. I'll just order online and put up the computer gaming controller, just watch movies for now unfortunately . About that PSU volts that you mentioned on 12v rail before my browser went crazy and self deleted everything I texted before. Well yes I noticed it I think yesterday. I have approx 11.156 to 11.597 volts at the most. And my GPU wattage it fluctuating Alot from 13 to 150 watts during heavy OCCT software testing. That kinda telling me that this crappy PSU is worthless to use on graphic card like this one. 13 watts is when the game flickering and driver crashes- 150 watts is when before it falls to driver crashes and then nothing but a solid green screen after it falls to 13 watts. The GPU requireds and recommended to have PSU watts at 500 for this XFX AMD RX 570 and 12.700 volts. I'm using a Most horrible Cooler Master 500watts Brand on the planet. Which says falsely a 600 watts. Now I will never buy Cooler Master products ever again. About that replacement of power supply I'm waiting on more cash Saturday first and after gas 100 mile round trip it depends on tommorow gas prices here in Kentucky that I'll order the thermalake PSU I found on eBay 77.99 working on getting it. I was going to get the XFX but someone bought it.


One question of the day is
I have bought 2 hard drives with this build and one went out in first two weeks and the other is reallocate count is 100 in four months. I'm wondering if this PSU is also causing my hard to fail , maybe stortout or something. Is it that possible, ? And just to think about would that also effects my GPU and PC cooling because the PSU is underperforming.?

Thanks.

Yes your card is unstable because of the psu, plus since you have a failing fan it will cause that too, and card makers use a generic paste no matter if AMD or Nvidia excluding AMD using a carbon type thermalpad on the Radeon VII/some 5700s/5600s/5500s.

 

[funboy6942]

One more this to check, is you may have malware mining on that pc which will cause your gpu to run at it total max. Grab the NZXT monitoring program and see if your gpu is running at 100% or more with nothing else running. If you you may have picked up the malware mining virus, which you may want to try to use malwarebytes to remove and see if that cools it down and gets it from running your gpu at 100% and hot af. I have gotten it a few times going to infected sites, that I dont go to any more, and if my pc is acting funky I use the malware program to see if I been infected with something.
Just another thought, for if the gpu is at 100% usage, it will make the things hot, and you may also want to find a program so you can change the thermal fan curve as well so that it kicks the fans faster at a lower temp.

Also if you havent done this in a while, rather then scanning the pc for the virus, just do a fresh install of windows, and make a bootable flash drive getting the program off microsoft so you have the latest windows available. You may have something else running as well that you cannot see that is causing the problem, and its a good rule of thumb, IMO, to do a fresh copy at least once a year to flush out crap that making your pc act funny, or slow, or who knows what, and a redo of windows, a fresh redo, so back up ur stuff, and then almost 99% of the time, fixes whats been causing you hell.

 

[PatrioTFreedom45]

Running decade old parts (or older, in the case of that PSU) in a hotbox with most of the fans disconnected and no thermal paste? This thread is a perfect demonstration of how to torture hardware until it breaks, though it does sound like most of it is broken already.

For an RX570 and FX processor you are going to need:

1. A NEW modern 80+ power supply. Not used and abused from facebook/craigslist/ebay. In my experience, a lot of used PSUs are often being flipped because someone's system is unstable and they suspect the PSU may not be good enough.
2. A case with unrestricted intake/exhaust fan bays and all fans working at >1000RPM under CPU and GPU load. You probably only need 1 intake and 1 exhaust but that case looks completely unsuitable. The holes you've drilled have changed it from "completely useless" to "still completely useless". If you can't change the case, cut out a huge hole in front of the fans so that there is NO plastic in front of the fans at all.
3. Thermal paste. It is never optional.
4. The patience to test each component one at a time.

I don't know how much you paid for this but you said in your other thread that it was only 6 months old. The newest thing in there is from 2017 and some of it is probably 15 years old and was likely found by a recycling company and then resold on facebook/craigslist/ebay. I throw out stuff better than that every day because it's no longer worth selling and even if it works, it doesn't have much lifespan or relevance to modern computing.

What is your budget for trying to get this working? You're in the US so you should be able to get parts ordered from reputable places at decent pricing.

I mean, I'd start by getting a stable platform you can build on - so a motherboard that isn't a decade old and that hasn't been cooked for the last six months. Pair that with a decent 80+ Gold certified power supply and throw in stopgap CPU (that's still vastly better than your FX-4300) and 1x8GB to get you up and running (with room to upgrade to 2x8GB if you have budget later).

System Builder

pcpartpicker.com

Use that stable platform to test whether your RX570 is actually okay or not, and whatever you do, don't risk ruining new hardware by connecting any of it to that PSU. Any damage to your current hardware is likely to be the fault of that nasty PSU you're currently using. The case should be fine as long as you're happy to either run with the front panel off entirely, or cutting out much more material.

Thanks I will probably start from scratch and take out the those front panel or cut out.. I wonder if there is possible to get a new panel for the front that fits with better air flow.?

 

[eidairaman1]

Thanks I will probably start from scratch and take out the those front panel or cut out.. I wonder if there is possible to get a new panel for the front that fits with better air flow.?

Look up the manufacturer or learn how to 3D print

 

[Vayra86]

Thanks I will probably start from scratch and take out the those front panel or cut out.. I wonder if there is possible to get a new panel for the front that fits with better air flow.?

Your cheapskate route isn't working, stop doing it. Buy a proper new case and only transplant the components you are dead sure work 100% properly. In other words: CPU and GPU. The rest I recommend you replace unless its recent hardware. Your board, having been run on a shaky PSU for some time now, is no longer reliable but I believe you RMA'd that already? Or not?

Old, 8-10 year old fans? Dust bin. Old HDDs? Dust bin. Or this will go on and on and on.

As for the GPU, get the life you can out of it, but you will only be able to do proper diagnostics on it when you move it to a 'clean' system with no other issues. It might very well be dying or dead too, but we can't tell right now, and its not directly likely.

The bonus here is you can also properly troubleshoot NEW problems. You gotta simply hit the reset button here, the hole is too deep to get out of. An example is malware, you don't even know if that's part of the issue yet but its another one you can cross off by just starting over.

 

[mtcn77]

My 15 year old psu runs the 12v line at 11.4v. Now, that has its own low supply feed issues, however your cpu runs at 1.4v and gpu at 1.2v at stock.
I couldn't hold the same generation 6800k running consistently, avoiding the thermal throttle(and powerplay intercepting fixed multiplier oc) above 1.2875v and that is with limited success. My day to day voltage was 1.2125v@42x.
Your gpu will also run at 1.05v max before fans ramping up.
You need a solid undervolt and all passive vents epoxy taped. If you have air coming through the sides, you are interrupting laminar flow, like jaccuzi entering cold air to fill the rising hot air which 'slows' airflow due to lateral inertia. You are bound to have better airflow if case temperatures increase and that lowers impedance of the front intake due to suction effect working to aid its total flow.

 

[eidairaman1]

Your cheapskate route isn't working, stop doing it. Buy a proper new case and only transplant the components you are dead sure work 100% properly. In other words: CPU and GPU. The rest I recommend you replace unless its recent hardware. Your board, having been run on a shaky PSU for some time now, is no longer reliable but I believe you RMA'd that already? Or not?

Old, 8-10 year old fans? Dust bin. Old HDDs? Dust bin. Or this will go on and on and on.

As for the GPU, get the life you can out of it, but you will only be able to do proper diagnostics on it when you move it to a 'clean' system with no other issues. It might very well be dying or dead too, but we can't tell right now, and its not directly likely.

The bonus here is you can also properly troubleshoot NEW problems. You gotta simply hit the reset button here, the hole is too deep to get out of. An example is malware, you don't even know if that's part of the issue yet but its another one you can cross off by just starting over.

The gpu fans need to be replaced along with thermal compound and psu, that psu is from 2008/2009, amperage is way too low.

 

[PatrioTFreedom45]

The gpu fans need to be replaced along with thermal compound and psu, that psu is from 2008/2009, amperage is way too low.

I already replaced the fans with new one Thursday night and the paste but not artic mx-4 brand which I'm planning redoing the thermal compound once the product comes in the mail.

 

[hat]

My 15 year old psu runs the 12v line at 11.4v. Now, that has its own low supply feed issues, however your cpu runs at 1.4v and gpu at 1.2v at stock.
I couldn't hold the same generation 6800k running consistently, avoiding the thermal throttle(and powerplay intercepting fixed multiplier oc) above 1.2875v and that is with limited success. My day to day voltage was 1.2125v@42x.
Your gpu will also run at 1.05v max before fans ramping up.
You need a solid undervolt and all passive vents epoxy taped. If you have air coming through the sides, you are interrupting laminar flow, like jaccuzi entering cold air to fill the rising hot air which 'slows' airflow due to lateral inertia. You are bound to have better airflow if case temperatures increase and that lowers impedance of the front intake due to suction effect working to aid its total flow.

Jesus... undervolt everything and tape up the case? WHAT??

You do realize people who come here looking for advice... are looking for good advice, yeah? Someone may not know well enough and actually try something like that...

 

[mtcn77]

Jesus... undervolt everything and tape up the case? WHAT??

Heat.
Tape just the passive airflow vents, active ones of course are not to be impeded. This way, the case pressure drop lowers the front fan impedance.
Try it, it is good for laminar flow direction.