I cleaned and lubed my mouse... lol

[Prime2515102]

So, over the years I have returned many, many mice under warranty because of the left button going bad. Generally this meant it would start to double-click when it wasn't supposed to, but sometimes it wouldn't actuate at all.

My current mouse just started doing this and Logitech recommended cleaning the mouse and making sure there is no debris under the plastic piece you actually press on.

I was able to pry it up with a thin blade and blew air in there and it started working fine again, but about a month later it started double-clicking again.

Tonight, I took the mouse apart entirely and cleaned it thoroughly and the problem remained.

I glanced over and noticed I had a can of DeoxIt D5 electronics cleaner/lubricant on my desk that I had used on some switches in a new mechanical keyboard that were double and triple-clicking (which worked really well btw). So, I opened the mouse back up, sprayed the switches (did both sides for good measure) and closed it up.

For about the first five minutes it seemed like it didn't work, but then the mouse started working perfectly.

So there you have it. A quick tip that might restore your wonky mouse before having to replace a switch or the entire mouse. I wish I would have known about this like 10 RMA's ago. lol

 

[Bill_Bright]

This still is likely only a temporary solution. It is more likely the switch components are simply worn due to friction and/or the return spring is weak from use. No cleaner can undo that sort of damage.

It also seems apparent you need to lighten up with your button pressings. You are supposed to lightly press the mouse buttons, not thump them with hammer hits.

 

[Mr Bill]

This still is likely only a temporary solution. It is more likely the switch components are simply worn due to friction and/or the return spring is weak from use. No cleaner can undo that sort of damage.

I understand what you're saying, but I've use the "really expensive" electronics cleaner from a electronics supply house here in Houston, and I don't know if the expensive stuff is better, but when I spray it under the mouse buttons, work them a little then let it dry out good, I don't have to do it again for around 8 months to a year.

I use "Caig Labs DN5S-6N DeoxIT D-Series Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator".

 

[AsRock]

All mice that have started double clicking on me the switch had to be replaced, it's awesome that it worked and be concerned that how it's getting so dirty inside the mouse as we live in a dusty area and the solution has never been that easy.

But right with you on mech keyboards as i get that issue ever 6 month or so.

 

[Deleted member 191766]

DeoxIt D5 electronics cleaner/lubricant on my desk that I had used on some switches in a new mechanical keyboard that were double and triple-clicking (which worked really well btw). So, I opened the mouse back up, sprayed the switches (did both sides for good measure) and closed it up.

For about the first five minutes it seemed like it didn't work, but then the mouse started working perfectly.

I use silicone oil, it seems to last and does not need repeating.

 

[Fourstaff]

You can get new switches for your mouse (Omron is a common example) if you are willing to do a bit of soldering.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I understand what you're saying, but I've use the "really expensive" electronics cleaner from a electronics supply house here in Houston, and I don't know if the expensive stuff is better, but when I spray it under the mouse buttons, work them a little then let it dry out good, I don't have to do it again for around 8 months to a year.

I suppose it all depends on your environment. It would seem yours is really dusty, and/or you may have 4-legged critters shedding hair and dander, or there may be smokers or other smoke/oily residues in the air. In that scenario, a good contact cleaner may be all that is needed as the switch mechanism is simply full of crud and grime.

But if the switch mechanism is actually worn due to wear and tear, no amount of even the best contact cleaner is going to repair the worn metal or plastic parts, or restore lost tension to the return spring.

I use silicone oil, it seems to last and does not need repeating.

Sorry but that's not a good idea. Silicone oil is an excellent lubricant (I use it on the tracks of my garage door opener) but as our friend Bing Google quickly shows, it is also an excellent "insulator". You don't want any insulator to get between the electrical contacts of a switch. And since computer mice are not intended for outdoor, all weather use, those switches are not sealed. So I do not recommend the use of silicone oils. If you have used it on electrical contacts, I recommend you get some real electrical contact cleaner and hope it cleanly removes the silicone oils. I use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner is also good.

You can get new switches for your mouse (Omron is a common example) if you are willing to do a bit of soldering.

And as seen here, most have just 3 contacts to desolder then solder. My problem has always been disassembling the mouse without breaking a retaining clip - for those mice that snap together. I guess I just don't know how to strategically place my tongue. And with mice that use screws, often the screws to open it up are under the mouse feet/pads/skates. Removing the feet typically destroys the feet and not all mice have available replacements.

how it's getting so dirty inside the mouse

Yeah, especially since the OP said he has had to replace "many many mice under warranty". Most mice have just 1 year, 2 if lucky, warranty periods. I don't recall any mouse I've encountered have the switches go bad during normal use in that short of time (while still under warranty). They either broke within the first month or so, or long after the warranty expired. But of course, I don't represent the world. YMMV.

 

[Deleted member 191766]

Sorry but that's not a good idea. Silicone oil is an excellent lubricant (I use it on the tracks of my garage door opener) but as our friend Bing Google quickly shows, it is also an excellent "insulator". You don't want any insulator to get between the electrical contacts of a switch.

Quantum tunneling

 

[Bill_Bright]

Quantum tunneling

I don't know what that is supposed to mean. If you mean the electrons can still make it through - nonsense. If anything, the silicone oil is what will make it through because it has excellent spreading capabilities and will work its way over, under, around and through to coat (and insulate) the contacts. Silicone oil was never meant to "clean" anything or "lubricate" electrical contacts.

As seen here, it has "superior dielectric properties".

If you don't agree, please go argue with Bing Google. Not with me, or here.

 

[Mr Bill]

Also, I used to buy those cheap "$8.00" ones at Micro Center, I started buying the over $20.00 ones, mostly MS Mouse, and they do seem to last longer.

I suppose it all depends on your environment. It would seem yours is really dusty, and/or you may have 4-legged critters shedding hair and dander, or there may be smokers or other smoke/oily residues in the air. In that scenario, a good contact cleaner may be all that is needed as the switch mechanism is simply full of crud and grime.

O, you forgot the humidity...

 

[Bill_Bright]

O, you forgot the humidity...

Actually, I didn't which makes my embarrassment even worse. You see, I grew up in Arizona and New Mexico where typically humidity is not a problem (except in monsoon season). I also spent some time in "West" Texas where humidity is not too bad. I saw your "Duke" avatar and Texas location and totally forgot about "East" Texas where it can be like wearing a wet wool blanket in the bayous of Southern Mississippi in the summer time (wear I lived for awhile too).

Humidity actually helps keep dust at bay, but can also promote corrosion. So yeah, good point there.

 

[Prime2515102]

This still is likely only a temporary solution. It is more likely the switch components are simply worn due to friction and/or the return spring is weak from use. No cleaner can undo that sort of damage.

It also seems apparent you need to lighten up with your button pressings. You are supposed to lightly press the mouse buttons, not thump them with hammer hits.

I'm not that hard on them. The mouse is going to be five years old next month. I blame this. lol

I understand what you're saying, but I've use the "really expensive" electronics cleaner from a electronics supply house here in Houston, and I don't know if the expensive stuff is better, but when I spray it under the mouse buttons, work them a little then let it dry out good, I don't have to do it again for around 8 months to a year.

I use "Caig Labs DN5S-6N DeoxIT D-Series Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator".

Yeah, that's the same stuff. I believe the lubricant in it is mineral oil but don't quote me on that.

All mice that have started double clicking on me the switch had to be replaced, it's awesome that it worked and be concerned that how it's getting so dirty inside the mouse as we live in a dusty area and the solution has never been that easy.

But right with you on mech keyboards as i get that issue ever 6 month or so.

The mouse is five years old, plus my desk isn't always the picture of cleanliness. lol

That keyboard thing really ticks me off. I sent one back because so many keys were doing it right out of the box, then the replacement did the same and I threw the damn thing away. Got a new one (different make and model) and it did the same but not as bad, and that's when I decided to try the Deoxit.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I'm not that hard on them. The mouse is going to be five years old next month. I blame this. lol

LOL Ah yes! That and this wreck havoc on my keyboards too.

 

[sneekypeet]

Please stick to the topic at hand and stop with the back and forth and attempts to make yourself superior to someone else.