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UPS for my setup.

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I live in Europe. I just sent the PSU that was making "crackling noises" to the retailer for testing. Read my last thread for more info. Apparently, the retailer said it makes 0 noises there. Thinking I have dirty power fed to my PC. Not sure if the cause is my surge protected power strip, or my original power strip.

Planning to get an UPS, since Europe seems to be devoid of high quality Tripp Lite power strips. Which one would be the best for a 860W PSU, two monitors (ASUS VG27AQ, LG 22MP68VQ-P) and a Canon MG3650S printer?

Looking at the CyberPower CP1500EPFCLCD, rathed at 1500VA/900W. Is it good?

I will never use the PSU at full load unless NVIDIA decides to release 600W GPUs. About half load or slightly above half load.

I don't want the UPS to last me a long time after a power outage, that's not what I'm looking for. Maybe just 2-3 minutes or so, so I can shut off my PC safely. I want clean power delivery and voltage regulation.
 
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Hi,
CyberPower-GX1325U is good I have one so yeah the one you posted is fine too.
 
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I can say TrippLite makes good UPS's as well, but I am unsure how prevalent they are in europe in that regard. I'd advise a 1500VA/900W model approximately.
 

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I live in Europe. I just sent the PSU that was making "crackling noises" to the retailer for testing. Read my last thread for more info. Apparently, the retailer said it makes 0 noises there. Thinking I have dirty power fed to my PC. Not sure if the cause is my surge protected power strip, or my original power strip.

Planning to get an UPS, since Europe seems to be devoid of high quality Tripp Lite power strips. Which one would be the best for a 860W PSU, two monitors (ASUS VG27AQ, LG 22MP68VQ-P) and a Canon MG3650S printer?

Looking at the CyberPower CP1500EPFCLCD, rathed at 1500VA/900W. Is it good?

I will never use the PSU at full load unless NVIDIA decides to release 600W GPUs. About half load or slightly above half load.

I don't want the UPS to last me a long time after a power outage, that's not what I'm looking for. Maybe just 2-3 minutes or so, so I can shut off my PC safely. I want clean power delivery and voltage regulation.

Should be good and exceed the 2-3 minutes by a lot (think more like 50 minutes on Ryzen with 2 monitors, not that you'd want to run that long) you've specified if you're at idle.

Far as I can tell the -E model is just the regular 1500PFCLCD but for Europe.

CP 1500PFCLCD and APC BR1500MS are basically the two top recommendations for affordable sinewave. Can't really go wrong with either one of them. I've got the BR1500MS and it's a good (and overkill) capacity for ~300W draw at load.

Tripp-Lite makes good stuff, but the stuff that's worth it is generally priced outside of the 1500PFCLCD's market segment. Same problem with APC's Smart-UPS units, they're expensive.

In any case, it's highly inadvisable to use a surge protector with any UPS whether on the input or output side, so the UPS'll show you whether the issue lies with your wall power or elsewhere in your PC.
 
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Should be good and exceed the 2-3 minutes by a lot (think more like 50 minutes on Ryzen with 2 monitors, not that you'd want to run that long) you've specified if you're at idle.

Far as I can tell the -E model is just the regular 1500PFCLCD but for Europe.

CP 1500PFCLCD and APC BR1500MS are basically the two top recommendations for affordable sinewave. Can't really go wrong with either one of them. I've got the BR1500MS and it's a good (and overkill) capacity for ~300W draw at load.

Tripp-Lite makes good stuff, but the stuff that's worth it is generally priced outside of the 1500PFCLCD's market segment.

In any case, it's highly inadvisable to use a surge protector with any UPS whether on the input or output side, so the UPS'll show you whether the issue lies with your wall power or elsewhere in your PC.
Yes, just gonna plug the UPS into my wall socket, and then my components into the UPS. All other surge protectors I had until now will be left out of the equation.

So is it good and can I go for it? Don't wanna have buyer's remorse. I assume this will help deliver clean power to my PSU? Again I haven't tested the PSU directly into the wall socket, might just be a power strip issue, but I kind of want a UPS now just to be safe.
 
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Hi,
Pure sine wave is a good pick :)
 
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Alright good stuff, have a couple of more questions:

1. Will the PC draw from the UPS battery at all times or is the battery only used when power is cut to the UPS?

2. Kinda need a 10m long AC power cord to reach the wall socket. Will any power cord work with the UPS? Will this one do: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B008R6VWQK/

3. What sort of battery should I look for when it eventually dies? I read somewhere to not use the replacement batteries sold by the manufacturer themselves as all UPSes use the same battery but different branding, and I can find them somewhere else cheaper.
 
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While I am a strong proponent for using a good UPS on all computers, regardless how stable and reliable your grid power is, and for sure think you should get one (and that CyberPower 1500 would be a good choice), I do not think it will resolve your problem here.

Your PSU was probably making noises because it was under load, not because your line-in power was dirty. And the retailer either flat out lied to you, or they just plugged it in, used a paperclip or a simple PSU tester, saw it fired up and declared it good. To conclusively test a PSU, it must be done under a variety of loads. The paperclip provides no load and those testers provide a very tiny, typically just 10Ω load.

Pure sine wave is a good pick
Pure sinewave UPS are fine if you can find one that meets your needs for a good price. But it is important to note that the attraction for pure sinewaves with computers and home network gear is pure marketing hogwash! Simulated or stepped approximation sinewave UPS have been used with no problems for 30+ years. There's no reason they suddenly "need" to be used now.

Again, if you can find one in your budget range, great. But don't think you need one, and don't dismiss a good UPS just because it does not have a pure sinewave output.
1. Will the PC draw from the UPS battery at all times or is the battery only used when power is cut to the UPS?

No and yes. Typically, the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) circuits are able to adjust (attenuate or boost) the voltage as needed without the need for the batteries to kick in. But if there is an extreme dip (opposite of spike) or extreme sag (opposite of surge), the batteries with a good UPS will be used to boost up the voltages without totally kicking over to battery power.

You can use any standard "heavy duty" extension cord as long as it is not a surge and spike protector too. Do not use surge and spike protectors with a UPS. Not on the input or output side.

Also, the spacing on the back of the UPS between outlets is often limited - especially is using DC power warts too. So I use 18 inch spider extension cords where necessary.
 
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Hi,
Only runs on battery when power is off
Extension core needs to be the same gauge wire as the ups has
Try not to exceed 6 foot

I just deal with replacement battery when it happens seeing these devises have warranties you could look into extended warranty options but that does extend price as well.
But I have pealed off manufature stickers on the battery and it reveals the real manufacture battery numbers to search for a replacement on amazon/... for cheaper.
 
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While I am a strong proponent for using a good UPS on all computers, regardless how stable and reliable your grid power is, and for sure think you should get one (and that CyberPower 1500 would be a good choice), I do not think it will resolve your problem here.

Your PSU was probably making noises because it was under load, not because your line-in power was dirty. And the retailer either flat out lied to you, or they just plugged it in, used a paperclip or a simple PSU tester, saw it fired up and declared it good. To conclusively test a PSU, it must be done under a variety of load. The paperclip provide no load and those tester provide a very tiny, typically just 10Ω loads.


Pure sinewave UPS are fine if you can find one that meets your needs for a good price. But it is important to note that the attraction for pure sinewaves with computers and home network gear is pure marketing hogwash! Simulated or stepped approximation sinewave UPS have been used with no problems for 30+ years. There's no reason they suddenly "need" to be used now.

Again, if you can find one in your budget range, great. But don't think you need one, and don't dismiss a good UPS just because it does not have a pure sinewave output.


No and yes. Typically, the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) circuits are able to adjust (attenuate or boost) the voltage as needed without the need for the batteries to kick in. But if there is an extreme dip (opposite of spike) or extreme sag (opposite of surge), the batteries with a good UPS will be used to boost up the voltages without totally kicking over to battery power.

You can use any standard "heavy duty" extension cord as long as it is not a surge and spike protector too. Do not use surge and spike protectors with a UPS. Not on the input or output side.

Also, the spacing on the back of the UPS between outlets is often limited - especially is using DC power warts too. So I use 18 inch spider extension cords where necessary.
Money isn't an issue here, when it comes to the life of my PC. I am going overdraft to buy this. Better than spending over $3k later.

The PSU was making noises even at idle. The retailer sent a video of the PSU, both at idle and full load. No noises on their part compared to me. I trust they know what they were doing.

So the power cord I linked is fine? Even if it is 10m (must be that length, the socket placement in my house is insane)? No mention of anything surge protection related. I know not to use surge protectors with an UPS.
 
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3. What sort of battery should I look for when it eventually dies? I read somewhere to not use the replacement batteries sold by the manufacturer themselves as all UPSes use the same battery but different branding, and I can find them somewhere else cheaper.
Don't worry until you need them. Then just shop around to get the best price. You need to make sure they are the same voltage. Most are 12V, some are 6. You can go with a higher Amp hour value but never less. For example, if 12V 7Ah, you can use 12V 8Ah with no problem, as long as they are physically the same size (most are). The other issue to make sure the terminal size is the same.

F1 vs F2 terminal connector size

F1 Terminal – 3/16” (0.187”, 4.8mm) wide

F2 Terminal – 1/4" (0.25”, 6.35mm) wide

I just looked at 5 UPS I have here (3 APC and 2 CyberPower) and verified they all have hardwired power cords. So that power cord you linked to would not work.
 
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Hi,
UPS that I have use 12 gauge wire so at the least find one is that.
 
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Don't worry until you need them. Then just shop around to get the best price. You need to make sure they are the same voltage. Most are 12V, some are 6. You can go with a higher Amp hour value but never less. For example, if 12V 7Ah, you can use 12V 8Ah with no problem, as long as they are physically the same size (most are). The other issue to make sure the terminal size is the same.

F1 vs F2 terminal connector size

F1 Terminal – 3/16” (0.187”, 4.8mm) wide

F2 Terminal – 1/4" (0.25”, 6.35mm) wide

I just looked at 5 UPS I have here (3 APC and 2 CyberPower) and verified they all have hardwired power cords. So that power cord you linked to would not work.
The one I bought looks like this:



Can anyone link me to a 10m one that would work with this?
 
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Hi,
10 meters is nearly 33 foot :/
Call an electrician to run a new line to your desk location or move your desk.
 
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The one I bought looks like this:
Okay. Up to you. But if me, I would just use a regular heavy duty extension cord.

And
10 meters is nearly 33 foot :/
Call an electrician to run a new line to your desk location or move your desk.
^^^THIS^^^ I agree. If you need that distance, you should have a qualified electrician install a new wall outlet closer to your desk, or move your desk. If that is not possible, then I would urge the use of very heavy duty extension cord (not that one you listed) and you need to make sure it does not become a tripping hazard. But don't just lay a rug over it. Use a proper cable protector.
Either way the UPS will hopefully resolve that issue
Fingers crossed but don't hold your breath.
 
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Okay. Up to you. But if me, I would just use a regular heavy duty extension cord.

And

^^^THIS^^^ I agree. If you need that distance, you should have a qualified electrician install a new wall outlet closer to your desk, or move your desk. If that is not possible, then I would urge the use of very heavy duty extension cord (not that one you listed) and you need to make sure it does not become a tripping hazard. But don't just lay a rug over it. Use a proper cable protector.

Fingers crossed but don't hold your breath.
Understood. Resorted to just moving my desk, bit of a hassle but not a big deal.

I will certainly let the retailer know if, even after all this the PSU still makes noise. Then I will demand a replacement or refund. I really hope it will behave with the UPS.
 
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Well, regardless, the UPS will protect the connected devices from future anomalies (except a direct attack from an upset Mother Nature). I live in Tornado Alley so power issues are not uncommon. I connect my computer, two monitors and all my network gear to my 1500VA APC UPS. If I lose power completely, and I quickly shut down my computer and both monitors, my UPS will still provide over 3 hours of power to my wireless router and modem, keeping my network alive. This lets me still use my notebook and other wireless devices to access the Internet.

And it must be noted destructive anomalies don't always original from the grid. A faulty high wattage appliance in the house can introduce destructive anomalies on the circuit too. A faulty, $15 1500W hair dryer made in some backwoods factory in China using parts from a sister factory upriver comes to mind.
 
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Memory Trident-Z Royal 4000c16 2x16gb | Trident-Z 3200c14 4x8gb
Video Card(s) Titan Xp-water | evga 980ti gaming-w/ air
Storage 970evo+500gb & sn850x 4tb | 860 pro 256gb | Acer m.2 1tb/ sn850x 4tb| Many2.5" sata's ssd 3.5hdd's
Display(s) 1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24"/ 3rd LG 43" series
Case D450 | Cherry Entertainment center on Test bench
Audio Device(s) Built in Realtek x2 with 2-Insignia 2.0 sound bars & 1-LG sound bar
Power Supply EVGA 1000P2 with APC AX1500 | 850P2 with CyberPower-GX1325U
Mouse Redragon 901 Perdition x3
Keyboard G710+x3
Software Win-7 pro x3 and win-10 & 11pro x3
Benchmark Scores Are in the benchmark section
Understood. Resorted to just moving my desk, bit of a hassle but not a big deal.

I will certainly let the retailer know if, even after all this the PSU still makes noise. Then I will demand a replacement or refund. I really hope it will behave with the UPS.
Hi,
Likely just moving the desk will cure the issue but never know.
You haven't shown the cord you're using now to get there.
 
D

Deleted member 205776

Guest
Well, regardless, the UPS will protect the connected devices from future anomalies (except a direct attack from an upset Mother Nature). I live in Tornado Alley so power issues are not uncommon. I connect my computer, two monitors and all my network gear to my 1500VA APC UPS. If I lose power completely, and I quickly shut down my computer and both monitors, my UPS will still provide over 3 hours of power to my wireless router and modem, keeping my network alive. This lets me still use my notebook and other wireless devices to access the Internet.

And it must be noted destructive anomalies don't always original from the grid. A faulty high wattage appliance in the house can introduce destructive anomalies on the circuit too. A faulty, $15 1500W hair dryer made in some backwoods factory in China using parts from a sister factory upriver comes to mind.
Yes, had a toaster completely trip the breaker once. Got rid of it appropriately.

I haven't had a power outage or any electrical anomalies in the 2 years of living here compared to my home country, even during intense storms.

Hi,
Likely just moving the desk will cure the issue but never know.
You haven't shown the cord you're using now to get there.
I'm using a regular power strip with a 10m long cable. Everything's plugged into it. Might be the issue in the first place. Idk.
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2020
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Location
Louisianna
System Name Ghetto Rigs z490|x99|Acer 17 Nitro 7840hs/ 5600c40-2x16/ 4060/ 1tb acer stock m.2/ 4tb sn850x
Processor 10900k w/Optimus Foundation | 5930k w/Black Noctua D15
Motherboard z490 Maximus XII Apex | x99 Sabertooth
Cooling oCool D5 res-combo/280 GTX/ Optimus Foundation/ gpu water block | Blk D15
Memory Trident-Z Royal 4000c16 2x16gb | Trident-Z 3200c14 4x8gb
Video Card(s) Titan Xp-water | evga 980ti gaming-w/ air
Storage 970evo+500gb & sn850x 4tb | 860 pro 256gb | Acer m.2 1tb/ sn850x 4tb| Many2.5" sata's ssd 3.5hdd's
Display(s) 1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24"/ 3rd LG 43" series
Case D450 | Cherry Entertainment center on Test bench
Audio Device(s) Built in Realtek x2 with 2-Insignia 2.0 sound bars & 1-LG sound bar
Power Supply EVGA 1000P2 with APC AX1500 | 850P2 with CyberPower-GX1325U
Mouse Redragon 901 Perdition x3
Keyboard G710+x3
Software Win-7 pro x3 and win-10 & 11pro x3
Benchmark Scores Are in the benchmark section
Hi,
Yes it does also matter how much other stuff is using the same plug and same circuit
Wall outlet could also have loose wire connects there and down the line at where it comes to you from.
Still think you should have a professional look at the wiring if you still have issues.
 
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