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Ghetto Mods

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just bought AC3200, the seller stated that the body cracked
View attachment 249591

and put superglue then add shred paper to reinforce
View attachment 249592
Is it even worth fixing? It doesn't seem to be structural and router is that kind of thing which you put somewhere and don't ever see again until it's time to upgrade or it starts to malfunction.
 
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Is it even worth fixing? It doesn't seem to be structural and router is that kind of thing which you put somewhere and don't ever see again until it's time to upgrade or it starts to malfunction.
actually not fixing, just minimize the effect to the plastic especially for long term
if you have electric stuff that has coil on it, usually the area around it have some black residue due to carbon
 

silentbogo

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Looks like you, guys, are having too much fun without me.
Finally got some spare time to share some of the ridiculous stuff I've been doing recently.
I'll start a couple of snapshots, but it has not one, not two, but tree[!!!] ghetto mods at the same time:
1) Sad and abused S9 on a boom arm is basically a display for my FLIR One and/or hi-def crotchcam. One thing that really sucks, is that I can't use it for my microscope, but I have a few ghetto-ideas on how to fix that.
2) Same mic arm also serves for hanging things, like a "fancy" $1 UV flashlight for curing photomask on PCBs
3) The thing that's drying under the flashlight is a recently modded and butchered digital caliper, which my buddy is already using on his PETG filament extruder (as a diameter sensor). Added a missing mini-USB port for data acquisition (but it's not actually USB, but more like the worst implementation of i2c).

IMG_20220604_173117.jpgIMG_20220607_131707.jpg
...and I totally forgot to capture a row of neodymium magnets, which I use to hang screwdrivers, random tools, and charging cables, cause my desk has been a total mess for the past 3 months.
I think that boom arm is the best $8 I ever spent.
 
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Is it even worth fixing? It doesn't seem to be structural and router is that kind of thing which you put somewhere and don't ever see again until it's time to upgrade or it starts to malfunction.
sorry, i must be sleepy to reply that
if all of the stuff in my house run on 5ghz it will be ok, even they say 5 ghz it's better than 2.4 ghz
actually i dunno what happened on the router, looks like get smashed by heavy box since one of the antenna not align and some of heatsink mounting gone
 
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Looks like you, guys, are having too much fun without me.
Finally got some spare time to share some of the ridiculous stuff I've been doing recently.
I'll start a couple of snapshots, but it has not one, not two, but tree[!!!] ghetto mods at the same time:
1) Sad and abused S9 on a boom arm is basically a display for my FLIR One and/or hi-def crotchcam. One thing that really sucks, is that I can't use it for my microscope, but I have a few ghetto-ideas on how to fix that.
2) Same mic arm also serves for hanging things, like a "fancy" $1 UV flashlight for curing photomask on PCBs
3) The thing that's drying under the flashlight is a recently modded and butchered digital caliper, which my buddy is already using on his PETG filament extruder (as a diameter sensor). Added a missing mini-USB port for data acquisition (but it's not actually USB, but more like the worst implementation of i2c).

View attachment 250209View attachment 250210
...and I totally forgot to capture a row of neodymium magnets, which I use to hang screwdrivers, random tools, and charging cables, cause my desk has been a total mess for the past 3 months.
I think that boom arm is the best $8 I ever spent.
wow. been awhile since we saw you around. glad to see you're alive (and hopefully well)!
 

silentbogo

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wow. been awhile since we saw you around. glad to see you're alive (and hopefully well)!
I'm OK, just very-very busy lately. Apparently being good at making/fixing things is a valuable skill in wartime. The only difference is that now I get a bigger "variety" of things to fix, not just boring laptops and consumer electronics. Best of all (or worst, especially for my schedule), my buddy moved his manufacturing equipment to my town (just outside of Kiev), so now he can torture me in-person with his crazy ideas and projects. :banghead:
 
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I'm OK, just very-very busy lately. Apparently being good at making/fixing things is a valuable skill in wartime. The only difference is that now I get a bigger "variety" of things to fix, not just boring laptops and consumer electronics. Best of all (or worst, especially for my schedule), my buddy moved his manufacturing equipment to my town (just outside of Kiev), so now he can torture me in-person with his crazy ideas and projects. :banghead:
So no more blenders and toasters?:D:roll:

Keep the faith, you'll be swamped with those laptops and electronics again soon.
 
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I'm OK, just very-very busy lately. Apparently being good at making/fixing things is a valuable skill in wartime. The only difference is that now I get a bigger "variety" of things to fix, not just boring laptops and consumer electronics. Best of all (or worst, especially for my schedule), my buddy moved his manufacturing equipment to my town (just outside of Kiev), so now he can torture me in-person with his crazy ideas and projects. :banghead:
Glad you're safe, doing well and keeping busy & productive!
 
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since my hako kick the bucket about 2 years ago ive been using these cheap T12 soldering irons which are great but the control boxes are so light thay move all over so put together this simple fix using L brackets and rubber feet also theres a ESD safe mod if you can spot it.
IMG_1172.JPG
IMG_1170.JPG
 
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since my hako kick the bucket about 2 years ago ive been using these cheap T12 soldering irons which are great but the control boxes are so light thay move all over so put together this simple fix using L brackets and rubber feet also theres a ESD safe mod if you can spot it.
View attachment 250269
View attachment 250268

We have this one:
I bought it around 1999.

20220508_124745.jpg20220508_124807.jpg
 
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since my hako kick the bucket about 2 years ago ive been using these cheap T12 soldering irons which are great but the control boxes are so light thay move all over so put together this simple fix using L brackets and rubber feet also theres a ESD safe mod if you can spot it.
View attachment 250269
View attachment 250268
i have to say it's pretty neat
 
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silentbogo

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So no more blenders and toasters?:D:roll:
:D :D :D
And those too... Which reminds me - I need to tell my office neighbor to pick up his 2 microwaves.
On the bright side - I had enough time to go through my ceiling-high piles of parts and finally fix a few things I've been putting on a backburner for the past 4-5 years (PSUs, motherboards, GPUs etc.).
 

silentbogo

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Now, this one was unexpected....
Got a Dell E5550 laptop from one of my co-workers, which started to suffer from worn rubber standoffs (actual repair is unrelated).
Not sure whether he takes all sayings literally, or this is his exquisite version of sarcasm :D :D :D
IMG_20220609_185926.jpg
 

Mussels

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When you said rubber, i was thinking of
1654823601334.png
 
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actually i hate using electrical tape coz it will leave any gluey residue on the cables, so i just wrap the cables with clear plastic then finish it with normal tape
20220611_203949.jpg

20220611_204703.jpg
 
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why not just use heat shrink instead much less fucking around with plastic and tape and does a better job all round
 
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Here you go......

DSC_0018.JPG

My ZX Spectrum+ ghetto cooling mode for ULA chip :D

DSC_0027.JPG

Broken old lap-top(screen/keyboard kaput) that I put it in some old box and mount some old mobo cooler and make it to work perfectly fine....looks kinda fugly but hey it works....

DSC_0039.JPG


DSC_0037.JPG


My GTX 1070TI...It was Actually Asus-Turbo blower version that I didn't like(heat&noise) so I switched cooler with some old broken GTX 580 it was a bit tricky to mount everything and cool the memory and VRM but after some adjustments works GREAT temps even when the card is OC staying bellow 70c....on back side I put some little-silly purple plate to disperse the heat....
 
Last edited:

Mussels

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You have to cut and resolder the wires to get the heatshrink tubing on, so their solution seems like a solid fix.
I mean, i've just cut the heatshrink and melted it back together
 
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I mean, i've just cut the heatshrink and melted it back together
Wait, what? How does that even work? To melt heatshrink you have to heat it way past its shrinking point, meaning it'll mostly be pre-shrunk before you can melt it together, meaning the melting will also melt what is underneath unless the shrunk heatshrink is very loose. Or are you using some extremely localized heat source? Soldering iron? I'd love to see a real-life example of this.
 
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Cooling Deep Cool LT720 + CM MasterGel Pro TP + Lian Li Uni Fan V2
Memory 32GB GSkill Trident Z5 Neo 6000
Video Card(s) Sapphire Nitro+ OC RX6800 16GB DDR6 2270Cclk / 2010Mclk
Storage 1x Adata SX8200PRO NVMe 1TB gen3 x4 1X Samsung 980 Pro NVMe Gen 4 x4 1TB, 12TB of HDD Storage
Display(s) AOC 24G2 IPS 144Hz FreeSync Premium 1920x1080p
Case Lian Li O11D XL ROG edition
Audio Device(s) RX6800 via HDMI + Pioneer VSX-531 amp Technics 100W 5.1 Speaker set
Power Supply EVGA 1000W G5 Gold
Mouse Logitech G502 Proteus Core Wired
Keyboard Logitech G915 Wireless
Software Windows 11 X64 PRO (build 23H2)
Benchmark Scores it sucks even more less now ;)
You have to cut and resolder the wires to get the heatshrink tubing on, so their solution seems like a solid fix.
Take another look at the photo the wire was already cut
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2010
Messages
9,795 (1.90/day)
Location
Jakarta, Indonesia
System Name micropage7
Processor Intel Xeon X3470
Motherboard Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. P55A-UD3R (Socket 1156)
Cooling Enermax ETS-T40F
Memory Samsung 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3
Video Card(s) NVIDIA Quadro FX 1800
Storage V-GEN03AS18EU120GB, Seagate 2 x 1TB and Seagate 4TB
Display(s) Samsung 21 inch LCD Wide Screen
Case Icute Super 18
Audio Device(s) Auzentech X-Fi Forte
Power Supply Silverstone 600 Watt
Mouse Logitech G502
Keyboard Sades Excalibur + Taihao keycaps
Software Win 7 64-bit
Benchmark Scores Classified
why not just use heat shrink instead much less fucking around with plastic and tape and does a better job all round
yea, but if you using heat shrink the cable will stiffer
 
Joined
Oct 2, 2021
Messages
51 (0.05/day)
System Name Tiny Tim / Chonker
Processor i5-9600k / i5-9500t / Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard HP Elitedesk 800 G5 Mini / HP Elitedesk 800 G4 65w / B450M-DS3H
Cooling Stock copper 65w rated / stock aluminum 35w rated / wraith spire
Memory 2x8gb Samsung DDR4-2666 / 2x 8gb Samsung DDR4-2400T / 2x8gb Team Group DDR4-3000
Video Card(s) Intel UHD 630 / Intel UHD 630 / Headless
Storage Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 500GB / Samsung 750 EVO 120gb / Sandisk X400 120gb m.2 sata
Display(s) / RDP / RDP
Case Stock 1L case / Stock 1L Case / Bareback
Power Supply 130W external PSU / 130W external PSU / TFX 230W PSU
Mouse Corsair Katar Wireless
Keyboard Generic Dell Wireless
Software Windows 11 / Windows 11 / Windows 11
I know there's all kinds of fancy test bench cases but where's the fun in that. Recycled motherboard tray from an old ATX case, some felt pads for feet, 300w TFX PSU, and after getting tired of the 'mobility' of the aio using double sided tape, some mounting corner brackets to keep it in place. Added bonus, got rid of fan rattle at high rpm while crunching. Before and after enclosed.
 

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