Pretty good guide, but a couple of extra points.
Alcohol & a stiff bristle brush to remove flux, especially at the finish.
Never pry with soldering tip for safety and it will cut through the cladding and tip goes bad quickly.
An alternative to the solder sucking bulb and desoldering iron is the sucking plunger. With any of these the appropriate size tip is necessary. The plunger is easier to control since you cock it before use. And hit the release button when the joint is ready, giving a very rapid pull on the melted solder.
Also, when working with small spaces or needing to remove thick films of solder, solder wick is a must. It looks like copper braid and when the piece you are working with gets full of solder, cut off the end of the roll giveing a fresh piece to work with. Also solder is drawn to heat so once the wick starts drawing the solder work the iron tip onto the wick.
If you expect to do much soldering, you might invest in a variable temp with interchangeable tips. That way you will have the proper tip, big or small, and temperature to handle the job. A wiser investment than a desoldering iron in my opinion.
And putting a blob on the iron is not proper technique. Always put iron to both parts of the joint and solder to the joint, not iron. (I cheat sometimes by putting the tiniest amount of solder on tip to speed heat transfer.)
BEWARE THAT TOO MUCH HEAT WILL LIFT TRACE FROM PCB!
I thought I'd mention that here because it can be avoided to some degree by making first contact of the tip to the lead which is usually much heavier guage metal than the runs on the PCB. Thus it takes a greater quantity of heat to bring the lead to soldering temperature than the very thin lead on the PCB. Don't forget the heat sinking the author mentioned, if it is necessary.
PCB where you have ruined a run by applying to much heat can be fixed, if it is on the surface. If it is one of the internal in a multi-layer board, chances of repair get smaller. In either case, if the run is not repairable, locate a nearby point that has the same electrical connection and use a length of hook-up wire.
Rosin should not be breathed indeed, but also lead fumes. And washing hands before eating or smoking should be done.
If working through the board, start soldering at point farthest from component.
And when working with heat producing components such as resistors and transistors, if possible create a strain relief in the connecting lead if possible. The stiffer the lead, the more necessary if the component gets quite hot. The strain of heating and cooling can break the internal connection.
