Naturally Aspired PC WaterCooling Club

[Dr. Spankenstein]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

 

[domy85]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

Oh it changed to lead-free, ok makes sense then.

 

[asb2106]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

Every time I take apart my system, I always just rinse the tubes and blocks under warm/hot water. I use Fesser View addidtive with distilled water, and Ive never had build up or milky water.

 

[Dr. Spankenstein]

I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round!

Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?

 

[asb2106]

I'm probably going to use some additive next time 'round!

Got some free PC Chill with my last Danger Den order. Won't be enough for my loop. Sounds like you dilute yours with distilled?

I use 8 ounces of the additive and fill the rest with distilled. Its just a corrosive blocker and adds color. Next go around I am gonna do the large bottle of blood red. Use only it and no water, only for the color though. The stuff I use is great, it has worked great for me personally and all the systems I have done water in for the last 2 years

 

[domy85]

How about i use some thermaltake coolant i have left to flush it through a few times and do you just pour it through or how would you force presure through it?

 

[EastCoasthandle]

What do you guys thing of this finding with that Thermochill Radiator?

 

[Wile E]

What do you guys thing of this finding with that Thermochill Radiator?

Doesn't bother me. They still work very well. Besides, that's a really tiny channel. Water chooses the path of least resistance. I somehow think that little channel doesn't receive much in the ways of water flow.

 

[DanishDevil]

I think the resistance of going through there will be less than looping back and forth through the radiator...

fit says it's gotta be a hoax

 

[Wile E]

Nah, I actually think that little channel would be more restrictive, otherwise the water would never get cooled, as it would just bypass the core of the rad.

 

[EastCoasthandle]

It's hard for me to make any opinion on it at this time. I would have liked to view more photos from more angles. Also, some concrete proof that the opening does in fact start/stop at the opening. Since it's already cut open mind as well cut the top off to see if there is a bevel that leads from open open neck to the other.

This finding, if true doesn't change the fact that this rad cools better then my "other" rad(s) that I've tried. What I would like to know if in any way that little beveled open can attribute to flow rates.

 

[asb2106]

I find that funny, I always joked with my friends that they had a tube across the enter/exit, because the flow rates were so much better.

I think this is true, but I doubt I can talk my buddy into cutting up his rad

 

[intel igent]

so if you closed that tube off imagine how much better it would cool due to ALL of the water passing through the core VS some bypassing the core and going directly to the exit

 

[EastCoasthandle]

And here I thought that the wider neck with wider barbs with a larger filler was part of the reason for better flow rates. I've always wondered why others like HW Labs and Swiftech didn't widen the openings.

 

[DaMulta]

Bad bad bad leak night....

First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....

Then after I finally fixed that one my mase4 is leaking like crazy down the video card. I tried some new tubing from Lowe's to see if it was easier to work with than my nylon. Lets just say the stuff they sell at frozen CPU and danger den is different. I got that leak fixed a little faster, but it doesn't stop the fact that my video card is now or was covered in liquid.

Now I am going to let this thing test run till tomorrow after noon, because I had to use tap water to fill in the gap of all the liquid I lost during this whole thing.'


My 8800GT was cleaned with half a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and is now setting in front of a fan. No more red was coming out after pouring it over it so I'm sure that it is all out.'



FUN STUFF

 

[aspire]

How in the heck did you manage a leak that bad?

 

[DaMulta]

The motherboard chipset is kind of hard to get to inside of the case.

The mase4 I normaly do not have to use faseners on, so when the leak started it really started.

 

[intel igent]

Marci (owner of Thermochill) states that since the industry has moved to lead-free construction, manufacturers have changed to water soluable flux. So hot water is all he has suggested. Of course, everyone has their own ideas of what "should" work.

The fact is that vinegar will attack the copper.

Maybe in a strange way you are making the walls of the tubes thinner and therefore more able to transfer heat quicker. (JUST A THEORY-DO NOT ACCEPT AS TRUTH!!)

Whatever you decide to use, the final steps is always to rinse thoroughly with distilled water! (A point I needed to pay a bit more attention too!)

i dont soak my stuff for very long, in the CLR maybe 1/2hr. then i flush with hot water, vinegar (not soak), hot water. i run the hot water through it untill im satisfied its clean.

i dont reccomend soaking in anything other than water for extended periods of time

 

[EastCoasthandle]

Bad bad bad leak night....

First on the order of business, why they used 3/8 instead of 1/2 on the 790i blows my mind. 2ed those adaptors they give just suck ass. I fought for at least 30 mins to stop the leak....while its going everywhere(reason to keep white shirts around....

Then after I finally fixed that one my mase4 is leaking like crazy down the video card. I tried some new tubing from Lowe's to see if it was easier to work with than my nylon. Lets just say the stuff they sell at frozen CPU and danger den is different. I got that leak fixed a little faster, but it doesn't stop the fact that my video card is now or was covered in liquid.

Now I am going to let this thing test run till tomorrow after noon, because I had to use tap water to fill in the gap of all the liquid I lost during this whole thing.'


My 8800GT was cleaned with half a bottle of rubbing alcohol, and is now setting in front of a fan. No more red was coming out after pouring it over it so I'm sure that it is all out.'



FUN STUFF

Use your wife's/GF hair dryer and make sure you evaporate any possible water from every corner of the video card and the MB before you turn it on. Water has a tendency to get under caps, mosfets and the ZIFF socket, etc (hmm do they still use the word ZIFF)

 

[DaMulta]

I sit it in front of a fan for 15 hours or so....The system is back up, just like it was.

 

[SirKeldon]

Advice needed for a new improved loop

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here and mainly here. I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-
- 1/2 liter of Feser Cooling Liquid Blue and 1 liter Acid Green coloured (thinking in test this last one)

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:

Loop 2:

In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

Thank you in advance!

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now

ps(2): Martin's Flow Estimator recommended me 1.15-1.31GPM with this setup so i think i'm fine ...

 

[EastCoasthandle]

My new rad and reservoir finally arrived!!! fit you're great man!!!! (EFFING CUSTOMS anyway!!! 13 days argh! had to tell you) ... and my case has been modded and prepared for the new and improved watercooling system as you can see here and mainly here. I'm telling you the complete parts of the future loop and also i have a few questions, as always

- Enzotech SCW-1 Waterblock (EQUAL as D-Tek Fuzion, the interiors too, trust me)
- Hydor L20 (bringing 700LPH, so about 184 GPH or 3.1GPM)
- Swiftech MCR-220 (with 2 Delta fans pushing air through the rad, bringing 70CFM each) -new-
- HWLabs BlackIce GTS120 (1 fan -don't know which one yet- pushing air through the rad)
- Swiftech MicroRes -new-
- 7 feet of Tygon R-3603 (19-13mm) tubing -new-

Fans that could be used:

2 x SilenX iXtrema Pro Series - 120x25 - 72CFM
2 x Xilence (Blue-Led) - 120x25 - 68CFM
1 x A.C.Ryan (UV-led) - 120x25 - 77 CFM
1 x Panaflo FBH-12G series - 120x38 - 67 CFM

I thought about one loop and philbrown23 added another.

Loop 1:

Loop 2:

In the first loop i designed the only "hot tube" is the cpu > rad with the pump right before the block to improve flow. I thought it was the best option ... but philbrown23 told me to mount it as the second one, i could get better temps on the CPU and also keep the water cooled as well, fitseries3 also told me the second one was the best option ... but i'm afraid of killing the flow to the block. I've almost decided to mount it like they say but i wanted some more advice.

Thank you in advance!

ps: feel free to comment about anything but the GTS120 position, can't be mounted vertical or at any other place right now

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be. Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal). This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better. If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

 

[SirKeldon]

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer and creates more fan noise as well as draws more current. Temps only improved by roughly 1C. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

All the hard job i did for just 1º-2ºC? damn it! anyway, for now i'm just cooling the CPU but i'm thinking in increase the loop within a few months, also the pump, i'm not worried about noises or current, i tested the airflow and it's good to each rad ... i'm decided to use the GTS120, just for a question of proudness you know, it's my very first mod ... but as i told in another posts, if the performance it's decreased cause the flow (1ºC better it's still increase and should be better on long load time periods) i'll remove the GTS120, but till that moment, that rad it's gonna be included.

Ty anyway mate!

ps: also it would be SOOOOO hard to me to stick a 120.3 rad on my mid-tower case

 

[asb2106]

I've already tried 2 rads like that and it's simply a flow killer, creates more fan noise, draws more current and uses more tubing then need be. Temps only improved by roughly 1C (if that at all, I didn't document because my results were so abysmal). This was when I decided to buy the PA120.3, for me temps under load were far better. If I recall it was somewhere from 3C-4C difference. I would just get a 3 fan rad or stick with a 2 fan rad. Since you are only cooling the CPU for now I wouldn't worry about IMO.

well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?

I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.

 

[EastCoasthandle]

well ok, how do you think this would apply to me?

I have 2 3870's with full cover bocks, and a apogee GT CPU block, I use a MCR320 and a MCR220 radiator.

Serial loop or Parallel loop? Do you have a pic you can share?