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Videocard issue.

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i will when i get back from the hardware store (other kind... wood and such)
 

AsRock

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Take the cooler apart and make sure no dust is getting trapped. The older 7800\7900's were terrible for it.

And what are the VRM temps ?.
 
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wow these are even lower numbers than i thought, cards must not be at full load. then again the numbers i was using was base on MAX draw listed from nvidia.



INT is power from the slot, the other is the 6pin connector. add the two together for total power. from xbitlabs.com
 

Magikherbs

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here ya go... i think the 3.3v int is the video card's memory voltage? i'm not sure. either way its more watts and amps, but on a diff rail all together.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/video/display/gpu-power-consumption-2010_3.html#sect0

the bar graphs are showing the measurements in watts, while the charts have the amp info

back to the O.P.'s issue... have you tried forcing the fan speed to max at all times? this would (in most cases) solve any overheating issues, but make a lot of noise sometimes. If it solves the issue, then you need to find an aftermarket cooler, or not if your ok with the sound.

inspect the cabling for any exposed wire or "pinched" areas. copper can only bend soo much before it breaks, and if there are breaks in the wire the resistance increases making it harder for the card to get its power.

If you're feeling adventurous, switch the psu off in the back, and press the case power button in the front. you may see the fans spin up for a sec, this is normal as its draining out any built up power in the caps. Now you are safe to take the psu out of the computer and open up its case, don't worry i'm not talking about messing with the wires... just clear out any dust you see on any components. also while your at it, turn the fan with your finger and check for resistance... if its sluggish to turn then it may be going out and not as effective. you can replace it with another 80mm (or w/e sized fan it has) by cutting the wire, and wireing the new fan in (sometimes your lucky and you can use the plug)

inspect your video card carefully, check for bulging caps. if you can take off the blower cover and clean the insides out good. if the memory chips are cooled via thermal pad making contact with the main heat sink, new thermal pads wouldn't hurt, but not really needed. the gpu could use some new paste though. clean the gpu thoroughly and carefully. when applying the new past you only need about the size of a grain of rice and spread it with a credit card or the like. when re-attaching the heatsink (also clean the heatsink base, you can even get a fine grit sand paper and sand it smooth if you want) gradually tighten the screws from opposite corners, about half turns at a time.

to rule out anything else, have you ran any thorough memory and cpu tests on the rig? do a spyware/virus scan too, those nasty critters can do the strangest things to drivers.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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VR HMD Lmao
Software Windows 10 / Steam OS
Benchmark Scores It can run Crysis (Original), Doom 2016, and Halo MCC. SD LE 45fps
that's kind of what i've been telling you...

To figure out how many amps you need on the 12 volt rail use this formula (watts / 12 = amps) so if the card requires 650 watts simply divide 650 by 12. This formula only works for 12 volt for different voltages there are different dividers.
650/12=54.16 so if it requires 650 watt PSU it will need 54 amps on the 12 volt rail, for PSU with multiple 12 volt rails you will need to find the max combined output for it. Now this number may be a bit higher then it actually needs but it will give you a rough estimate since AMD and Nvidia dont give the amperage requirements for all their cards.

he's half got it right... yea if a card itself used 650 watt (must be a beast of a card... or 3dfx is making a 8 chip fermi while we thought there were gone this whole time) that would be correct as far as finding amps... for the card. not for the rail. the 650watt requirement is the requirement needed for the card AND the rest of the components. due to the different voltages in a pc, well heck just look at this pic...



see all the diff voltages? they all add up to diff amps on their own rails... but all must equal no more in watts than the total output of the psu. this is why we look at the company's stated power draw in watts of the graphics card and devide that by 12 to figure out the amp capacity of the 12v line since video cards primarily rely on 12v rail for power, not the 5v, 3.3v, etc.

if every component used 12v, then he would be %100 right, but they dont. if you divid by 12 for the whole system, your assuming every component is 12v and its not.

and that's not an official toms hardware review/article.. kinda a user posted thing.
 
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I had a single slot PNY 8800GT that ran at about 50c then one day it started to hit 70c and lock up. I attributed this to new nvida software version at the time. I removed the cover and put a fan under it but that didn't help. I found this Zalman at newegg.com: ZALMAN VF1000 2 Ball VGA Cooler

It runs fine, I had to put the fan 3pin to mobo header. I made the mistake once and left the fan disconnected and the copper became to hot to touch...so I know this model produces extreme heat.

It's still running.

See this as well:ZALMAN RHS88 VGA Cooler (heatsink)
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
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System Name Old Gateway / Steam Deck OLED LE
Processor i5 4440 3.1ghz / Jupiter 4c 8t
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Cooling Eh it doesn't thermal throttle
Memory 2x 8GB JEDEC 1600mhz DDR3 / 16gb DDR5 6400
Video Card(s) RX 560D 4GB / Navi II 8CU
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VR HMD Lmao
Software Windows 10 / Steam OS
Benchmark Scores It can run Crysis (Original), Doom 2016, and Halo MCC. SD LE 45fps
zalman makes pretty good products. the only downside is the things can be pretty havy for the pcb sometimes lol

here's a less expensive one if you're on a tight budget ZALMAN VF950 LED 2 Ball VGA Cooler
 

Magikherbs

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I still don't get why you don't see my point. If you plan to run a gpu solely on its own, then yes your formula is right. To me, "combined amps on the 12v rail", means the number you will need to run a typical mainstream system with that particular gpu.

When GTGear oc'd the 8800gt, it overloaded the 12v rail and fried it and/or the gpu, b/c the main rail was already past its limits.

I moved one of my 6pins to the other 12v rail, after reading that last article. The psu used to get very warm when gaming and now it almost feels cold lol...:cool:

Btw.. I'm not trying to be "right". I am trying to learn something.

Peace :rockout:
 
Joined
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System Name Old Gateway / Steam Deck OLED LE
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Power Supply 380w oem / 65w valve USB-C
Mouse Purple Walmart special, 1600dpi. Black desk mat
Keyboard SteelSeries Apex 100 / virtual
VR HMD Lmao
Software Windows 10 / Steam OS
Benchmark Scores It can run Crysis (Original), Doom 2016, and Halo MCC. SD LE 45fps
i get what ur trying to say, i'm just pointing out that gpu's don't use as much power as most think they do. I agree you need to know the demands of the whole system plus the graphics when choosing a psu.
 
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