How do you clean WC parts?

[TRWOV]

Got an used s478 WC kit for a retro project but there seems to be some residues in the pump and reservoir plus I suppose there should be some in the radiator too. What's the best way to clean them?

Also, it came with tubing but of course it's all used. Do WC parts use special tubing or any kind of plastic tubing works? I have access to 150 and 300psi tubing for neumatic applications. Would that be useful?

 

[Arrakis9]

Go to an auto store and ask for some radiator flush or if you want to be cheap about it you can use distilled vinegar on the metal parts. for plastic parts a used toothbrush and some dish soap work well, as far as the tubing goes as long as it fits the barbs you can use any type of tubing you want if your on a budget you should be able to find vinyl tubing at a local hardware store as well as hose clamps in the plumbing section

 

[GayleShier]

quite informative .. i was needed this and good to get here .. appreciate sharing it

 

[bmaverick]

If you can take anything apart like a water-block that is screwed together or fittings or etc, use the flush mix or the distilled white vinegar and a simple tooth-brush. The medium bristle tends to work best.

If you are cleaning a RES, read the chemicals NOT to use for acrylics and proceed from there. The tooth-brush again can get into corners really well.

 

[Arctucas]

For cleaning copper waterblocks; soak overnight in lemon juice and scrub with and old toothbrush.

 

[Wrigleyvillain]

Well for bad stains etc not on plastic or acrylic Swiftech support suggested a mixture of distilled and Pine-Sol (to remove corrosion specifically in my case) and it worked like a charm. I was really skeptical though my block caked with greenish-white. Took 24 hours and a toothbrush but it all came off much to my relief and pleasant surprise. So if it worked for that it can surely just clean too. Will cloud plastic though; don't use in res.

I just did like 1/3 to 2/3 water.

 

[erixx]

I ... just... had to.... the title confused me.....!

 

[Nordic]

I just cleaned my loop out not too long ago. I used distilled viniger and it made my waterblock nice and shiny again with one pass. Then again nothing was that dirty.

 

[manofthem]

Vinegar and a toothbrush can do wonders!

Can take this:

And turn it into this:

 

[dj-electric]

^What he said. Works like a charm.

 

[fullinfusion]

Coke works well too. Put a dirty penny into some and let it sit for a while and see how shiny it comes out. Does the same for wc parts

 

[dj-electric]

Well... it eats the copper as-well. Not THAT recommended i'll say.

 

[erocker]

I use vinegar and water once a year. I generally replace the tubing at that time as well.

 

[Schmuckley]

Vinegar or Muriatic acid

 

[Naito]

Coke works well too. Put a dirty penny into some and let it sit for a while and see how shiny it comes out. Does the same for wc parts

That'd be the phosphoric acid. It's found in many industrial cleaners, like the rim cleaner I use for my car. Funnily enough, it states on the bottle to not leave it on the rims too long as it may damaged them, but yet we're all happy to drink it in the form of Cola.

Citric acid (or plain lemon juice) should do a good job at cleaning metal parts without causing damage. Most manufacturers recommend kettles be cleaned once every 3 months or so by boiling some citric acid and water (random info, I know...).

 

[lilhasselhoffer]

The point here is that water tends to build impurities over time. The simple fact is that these impurities are from impurities in the water (both to start with and as it oxidizes parts in the system. The easiest way to remove the impurities is to turn them from solids that drop out of solution back into salts. In order to do this, we alter the pH of the solution in the system.

So, we're looking just to remove the stuff that has fallen out of solution. This means that the lower the pH the faster you'll clean. At the same time, the faster you clean the more your acid has the chance to begin etching the metal components in the system. I'm assuming the science here is less than interesting, so you'll want to know what chemicals to use. Acids that are easily available, from strongest to weakest, are as follows:
Muriatric - Gardening store - dillute Hydrochloric acid
Battery Acid - Car battery - Sulphuric acid
Vinegar - grocery store - Acetic acid
Vitamin C - grocery store - Citric acid

As hydrochloric tends to take a ton of precautions in order to mix, I'd shoot for either white Vinegar or Vitamin C pills. Both may require multiple flushes throughout the system in order to full dissolve crap (assuming it is very dirty). If you're looking for something very quick dillute muriatric acid into tap water at about 20:1 (this is based on concrete whitening solutions, you may want to increase the water to acid ratio higher if you're not comfortable), add about a table spoon of table salt (NaCl) per 2 liters of water, and run that through the system. The table salt will act as a buffer, while the acid easily eats away mineral build-up. Anywhere between 30-40 minutes later, and you'll be able to drain the system. Flush and refill the loop with clean water at least twice. Once all of that is done the metal components in the system should be spotless.

Cleaning the film that develops on the tubing is foolish. It will be much easier to scrap it, and start new.


I cannot speak to this process for your hardware, but it's worked crazy well on plenty of cars. The heated wash that oil change places offer doesn't hold a candle to better living through chemistry...