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My PC hates me

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I'm not sure what is going on. I was trying to show a friend a game...

Before playing the game I decided to update my video card drivers. Windows reboots to an odd colored orange screen. I reinstall the old driver version, and get an odd colored blue screen. At this point I re-seat the video cards, and the display works correctly...

However the on-board sound stops working, and the "boot_device_led" is on. I change the HDDs SATA port, and that turns off the led....

now when turning the PC back on it says overclocking failed, press F1 to continue. I don't have my PC overclocked, but I check and everything seems fine. Next I reset the PC, and "New CPU detected press F1 to continue." Again everything is normal.

At this point everything but the on-board sound seems to work correctly. I'm sure there are more things I can test, but I cant think of them right now. I am thinking it may be a worth buying a new motherboard, as the one I have now is ~3 years old.

Before I buy a new motherboard what should I test next?

PS
It also does not help that I'm distracted because one of the plastic tanks on my car's radiator cracked yesterday, and the replacement is $325+S&H.
 
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Things I would try:
Unplug anything non essential
Make sure your HDD is not failing
Check for shorts, dust or popped caps
Check MB coin cell with a volt meter
Load optimized defaults, Set your boot devices, SATA as AHCI, ram and save
Re flash MB BIOS with latest version
Test with a spare PSU
Buy new MB

In that order
 
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Your just having a bad week. Don't touch anything else for a couple of days.

Its ether a cap on the board or some bad power

try a format and clean install before you buy anything

Also try a live Linux disk to rule out any corrupt data
 
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Yeah I've had days like that. In the evening I used my pc and everything was fine, when I came home form work it just would not boot. Now I don't recommend trying what I've tried, which is punching the case until it turns on. It has worked since no problem but still don't punch the case.
 
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I am thinking it may be a worth buying a new motherboard, as the one I have now is ~3 years old.
3 years is nothing for a motherboard.

Take a look at your HDD health with something like CrystalDiskInfo.

Since you restarted the PC multiple times, the BIOS probably taught there was an unstable OC. I would only care if it happens again.
 
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I downloaded that tool. Here is what is the drive reports. I also changed the cable earlier.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
(2) ST3000DM001-1CH166
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Model : ST3000DM001-1CH166
Firmware : CC46
Serial Number : W1F2QZ9S
Disk Size : 3000.5 GB (8.4/137.4/3000.5/3000.5)
Buffer Size : Unknown
Queue Depth : 32
# of Sectors : 5860533168
Rotation Rate : 7200 RPM
Interface : Serial ATA
Major Version : ATA8-ACS
Minor Version : ATA8-ACS version 4
Transfer Mode : SATA/300 | SATA/600
Power On Hours : 2860 hours
Power On Count : 217 count
Temperature : 41 C (105 F)
Health Status : Good
Features : S.M.A.R.T., APM, 48bit LBA, NCQ
APM Level : 8080h [ON]
AAM Level : ----

-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 120 _99 __6 00000E887330 Read Error Rate
03 _92 _90 __0 000000000000 Spin-Up Time
04 100 100 _20 0000000000D9 Start/Stop Count
05 100 100 _10 000000000000 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 _70 _57 _30 000402CE540A Seek Error Rate
09 _97 _97 __0 000000000B2C Power-On Hours
0A 100 100 _97 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0C 100 100 _20 0000000000D9 Power Cycle Count
B7 100 100 __0 000000000000 Vendor Specific
B8 100 100 _99 000000000000 End-to-End Error
BB 100 100 __0 000000000000 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
BC 100 100 __0 000000000000 Command Timeout
BD _99 _99 __0 000000000001 High Fly Writes
BE _59 _55 _45 000029240029 Airflow Temperature
BF 100 100 __0 000000000000 G-Sense Error Rate
C0 100 100 __0 000000000019 Power-off Retract Count
C1 _97 _97 __0 000000001CA2 Load/Unload Cycle Count
C2 _41 _45 __0 001100000029 Temperature
C5 100 100 __0 000000000000 Current Pending Sector Count
C6 100 100 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 200 200 __0 000000000000 UltraDMA CRC Error Count
F0 100 253 __0 E23500000AE0 Head Flying Hours
F1 100 253 __0 00029A13675A Total Host Writes
F2 100 253 __0 00023C6E76F9 Total Host Reads

I will check the batterey tomorrow.
I have reset the BIOS to defaults, everything thing is checking out ATM but the sound card is still not working. I will also try re-installing those drivers again.
 
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The HDD seems to be in good health.

As others stated, it most likely is software (Windows or drivers) related than the motherboard.
 
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The drive is fine
 
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Hm, by chance does your graphics card have an HDMI port with built in HDMI sound?

Edit: Also, are you by chance using AVG as your anti-virus?
 

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the overclocking failed and new CPU detected are signs that your BIOS was reset.

your BIOS/CMOS battery may be flat.
 
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Have u tried reflashing the bios? Try the other suggestions mentioned but sounds like the board is on it's way out....
 
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INSTG8R

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Have u tried reflashing the bios? Try the other suggestions mentioned but sounds like the board is on it's way out....

This. I have had 2 ASUS boards that the BIOS has been corrupted. I had to order a new BIOS chip(which was really cheap)
 
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This. I have had 2 ASUS boards that the BIOS has been corrupted. I had to order a new BIOS chip(which was really cheap)
Hey mate

Yeah I've seen a couple ASUS boards do that get stuck in post with the boot device led lit up, nothing attached. If you're lucky and have USB Flashback they can be resurrected by flashing the eeprom with a a new bios image.
USBF don't need power or CPU attached either. Just a cmos battery. Load a CAP image on the flash drive and rename it to xxxx.cap, press the button. Presto it lives.. :p
Just some fyi u'll prob never need. lol




Oh...say hi for me :D
 

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This sounds like hardware failure, likely mobo.

It could just be a corrupted BIOS so do a full reset on it with the jumper and see how it goes. Could also be a flat CMOS battery which would corrupt it.
 
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Yes, both video cards have HDMI audio. Windows shows 8 NVIDA HDMI outputs. It always has, but I don't know why.
No, I'm not using AVG.
Yes the motherboard has USB Flashback.
Going to just replace the battery, but AFAIK they don't sell the correct cell in town. However if they do I cant find out until I fix my car, and that will wont happen for about two weeks.
 
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One thing I hate about my motherboard is that is does not save changes to boot priority, and for some reason today it keeps trying to boot from the wrong drive.
 

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Yes, both video cards have HDMI audio. Windows shows 8 NVIDA HDMI outputs. It always has, but I don't know why.
No, I'm not using AVG.
Yes the motherboard has USB Flashback.
Going to just replace the battery, but AFAIK they don't sell the correct cell in town. However if they do I cant find out until I fix my car, and that will wont happen for about two weeks.


you will find the correct battery in your local petrol station, failing that ebay will be eager to please. Still no good....PM me and i will post you one of mine i get 3 for a quid from the one horse town up the road.

A flat battery will give you an F1 to start message, a CPU warning and an incorrect time clock in BIOS and windows.
 

dorsetknob

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was just about to say you can get correct cell battery from your local car dealership/parts shop
car remote key lock use the same battery
 
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That the bad thing here basicly everything is ~30 miles away in Logan. All the computer stores, auto parts stores, my car. I "should" have a battery sometime after 5pm.
 
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Yes, both video cards have HDMI audio. Windows shows 8 NVIDA HDMI outputs. It always has, but I don't know why.
No, I'm not using AVG.
Yes the motherboard has USB Flashback.
Going to just replace the battery, but AFAIK they don't sell the correct cell in town. However if they do I cant find out until I fix my car, and that will wont happen for about two weeks.

Seems a lot of HDMI audio issues come up. You are having a similar issue to one I had. So try this...

There is a software available pretty much anywhere online for free called, "DDU" it stands for Display Driver Uninstaller. Find it with a quick google search and download it from MajorGeeks. Once you have the program you want to restart in SAFE MODE. Once you have done that then you want to run the extraction software, it will extract the DDU.exe to the folder you choose. Once you have done this run it as admin and at the top there is an options menu, you want to make sure the advance options for nVidia are selected. It should be something like "Allow removal of FOLDER NAME". It is important those are turned on. Once it is all setup just click to run it on the main screen again and then restart in to normal windows. Download your drivers for your sound first, then your graphics card.

This may or may not work, but it sounds like a possible driver conflict. This will definitely tell you though.
 
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1. what PSU you have, how old ?
2. please try check your motherboard battery, if you have same size just try swap

don't forget couple days ago "SUN" have very big magnetic waves, if you watching new's you should know, maybe you was very unlucky :) and some of your staff just burn, like mine router :(
sorry for my English, but hope so you understand what I mean
 
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was just about to say you can get correct cell battery from your local car dealership/parts shop
car remote key lock use the same battery
Not all remote keys use that battery, maybe yours does.
I can buy them at my local Woolworths Supermarket hanging with all the other small batteries.
 
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I replaced the battery. Does not seem to have changed anything. Everything is working fine today except onboard sound. The onboard sound only has a high pitched whine from the left or right. The sound device in my G510s works fine. I may just need to buy a new sound device.

It would be nice if I had a keyfob for my car, then I would probably have a surplus of batteries. It was called passive keyless entry, from what I understand it is an always on keyfob that automatically lock/unlocks the doors when you enter/exit transmitter range. Someday I may buy an aftermarket system after I get around to fixing the powerlocks. Until then the old key in the door works great for me. There are a few NOS replacements out there but IMO not worth the $200 for one of them.


1. what PSU you have, how old ?
2. please try check your motherboard battery, if you have same size just try swap

don't forget couple days ago "SUN" have very big magnetic waves, if you watching new's you should know, maybe you was very unlucky :) and some of your staff just burn, like mine router :(
sorry for my English, but hope so you understand what I mean
PSU is a Thermaltake SP-1000M. I don't know how to answer how old it is, it was replaced under warranty sometime in the last year.
I don't watch the news. The last time I watched news was in 2001.
 

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I replaced the battery. Does not seem to have changed anything. Everything is working fine today except onboard sound. The onboard sound only has a high pitched whine from the left or right. The sound device in my G510s works fine. I may just need to buy a new sound device.

It would be nice if I had a keyfob for my car, then I would probably have a surplus of batteries. It was called passive keyless entry, from what I understand it is an always on keyfob that automatically lock/unlocks the doors when you enter/exit transmitter range. Someday I may buy an aftermarket system after I get around to fixing the powerlocks. Until then the old key in the door works great for me. There are a few NOS replacements out there but IMO not worth the $200 for one of them.



PSU is a Thermaltake SP-1000M. I don't know how to answer how old it is, it was replaced under warranty sometime in the last year.
I don't watch the news. The last time I watched news was in 2001.

do you have a front panel header connected? Could be related.
 
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I have no advice for you (a few good ones were given already) but i do have very bad jokes:

The game you were trying to show to friend was World of Warcraft ,wasn't it? Yes it was.
You see the game is so incredibly lame, computers have created a symbiotec form of self defence against it. There is no hardware or software failure,just your PC trying to protect you from WoW.
 
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