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Cooling for a FX8350 Black Edition.

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Is it correct to say that rear fans should be stronger than those at the front ?
It's correct to say that a fan is better than no fan at all.
I have all my fans and the H80 unit controlled via fan controller mounted in the front bay: https://geizhals.at/scythe-kaze-master-ii-schwarz-km05-bk-a724538.html?hloc=at
Something like this Scythe cooler might be what you need if your box is a bit thin: https://geizhals.at/scythe-big-shuriken-2-scbsk-2000-a691260.html?hloc=at
These closed unit water coolers don't mind being carried about, if I remember correctly the pump breaks down before the unit becomes leaky (if it ever does).
 
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This is why I was thinking of swapping out the fans on the H7
The fans on the cpu cooler are not strong enough to pull/push air in/out of the case, they only blow the air already in the case through the cpu cooler itself.
You need a good fan on the front of the case and another one on the back pulling the hot air out of the case. If you can put two on the back the air will be pulled through the box considerably quicker than with just one so use the air vent on the top of your case as well.
I can't see whether you have space for a fan on the floor of your box but normally this is just ventilation for your psu and would get blocked up with dust every five minutes if you put a fan on it anyway.
 

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Any after-market cpu-cooler with 4/8 copper heat pipes will do the same job so get the cheapest one and just slap another fan on the other side pull but replacing the original fan that comes with it is senseless in terms of performance.

Just...all kinds of NO. There will be large differences from one end of the spectrum to the other as far as air coolers. As far as heatsink fans, putting a CM jet-Flo on a cooler as opposed to a stock fan makes a very noticeable difference in lower temps as well...as an example.
 
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Well, I have to say, after reading all the comments, I think what I'm gonna do is switch to a Cryorig H7 and add in a Jetflo(maybe). Install 2 additional JetFlos at the front and rear of the case, then probably move one of the stock fans to the side. Unless anyone has a better suggestion for parts ?

Will this solve my problem, guys ?
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
It will help it...

As far as locations and fan direction: Front/sides = intake, Top/Rear = exhaust for proper airFLOW through your case.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
Rhino, edit and add, dont double post. :)

EDIT: Well, you could have deleted the second post and added it to the first so as not to bork the chronology... oh well.
 
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cdawall

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Have you notice they didn't even solder the fins to the heat pipes? Just use your fingers to play with the fins and they'll move about. How do they expect the fins to conduct the heat from the heat pipes even it's not even in proper contact with it?

Doesn't matter if they just zip tied them. They work just fine for a stock cpu that's why they come in the box. Something else is wrong if a stock cpu is overheating on the stock cooler.
 
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My 2 cents... 212 evo thats what i have on my Fx8350 and cant be more happy
 
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Doesn't matter if they just zip tied them. They work just fine for a stock cpu that's why they come in the box. Something else is wrong if a stock cpu is overheating on the stock cooler.
He said he's lugging his pc about all over the place, maybe it's become unseated in which case it'll need reseating with fresh thermal paste. (After the old paste has been cleaned off).
Maybe, the whole thing is full of dust and needs cleaning (starting with the cpu cooler and fan).
 

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Benchmark Scores well I've fried a 775' P4 12 years ago, that counts?
@peche, I only use AllCPUMeter with its gadget to check on it occasionally. I do not know how to identify the exact point though. According to the Windows Event Log, I have 40+ unexpected shutdowns since the computer was built. My point is that, I have no reason to believe that the cause is anything other than overheating since to the best of my memory, it has only happened during gaming sesssions where high loads are achieved. By throttle advise or check, I assume you mean warnings before shutdowns ? In that case, nope. And no, it does not slow down as far as I can tell. The entire CPU would just turn itself off immediately. The monitor is left unaffected.
well its important to say that you must try some things such:

Repaste your computer, take cooler out and do all proper cooling, also repaste the processor, reseat that cooler and then do some tests such as a minimal bench mark or preformance tests, windows have one, so that will be fine and always taking a eye to all temps, i may also recommend to download HWinfo and run sensors only...
that will take out the doubt about shut downs due improper cooling, maybe broken bond between cooler and processor, mostly because you claimed to travel with the computer, so ....

@rhino, I did consider water cooling, but since I travel regularly with my desktop, I dont think it's worth the risk. I know, one should probably take out the cooler or drain the water before transporting it but suffice to say that I have no confidence in my ability to do so.
All in One water cooler units may be you solution, pretty easy to setup and take out for travels, wont need to bleed the system bro, so address that in consideration too ....

The OEM cooler should not have any issues with OEM settings. Something else is wrong if the CPU is hitting 80C
thats is a variable fact lad, i have seen computers running stock on heavy hot places such near beaches for example throttling at stock ... on 90% loads..just for giving an example...

Just...all kinds of NO. There will be large differences from one end of the spectrum to the other as far as air coolers. As far as heatsink fans, putting a CM jet-Flo on a cooler as opposed to a stock fan makes a very noticeable difference in lower temps as well...as an example.
agreed, pretty much ... since not all fans moves the air in the same direction or also the static pressure,

Well, I have to say, after reading all the comments, I think what I'm gonna do is switch to a Cryorig H7 and add in a Jetflo(maybe). Install 2 additional JetFlos at the front and rear of the case, then probably move one of the stock fans to the side. Unless anyone has a better suggestion for parts ?

Will this solve my problem, guys ?
better sugestions:
cheap and nice cooler: Hyper212 EVO and 1 more jetflo fan, for giving it a push pull configuration, you will notice a difference...
better option, still on air cooler: Coolermaster V8 GT .... Thermaltake Frio OCK,
The best you could do for that FX processor: Thermaltake Water 3.0 Pro, Swhiftech h220X.... also Corsair H80i ....
try to get Arctic MX4, the best thermal paste ever...


Doesn't matter if they just zip tied them. They work just fine for a stock cpu that's why they come in the box. Something else is wrong if a stock cpu is overheating on the stock cooler.
soldered fins will be ultra excellent, since soldering will conduct the heat better.... thats normal physics....basic one...
 
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My 2 cents... 212 evo thats what i have on my Fx8350
He said the 212 doesn't fit in his box.
And CM Jetflo fans start at 120mm and don't fit on cpu cooler anyway.
 

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He said he's lugging his pc about all over the place, maybe it's become unseated in which case it'll need reseating with fresh thermal paste. (After the old paste has been cleaned off).
Maybe, the whole thing is full of dust and needs cleaning (starting with the cpu cooler and fan).

This is what my guess is.
soldered fins will be ultra excellent, since soldering will conduct the heat better.... thats normal physics....basic one...

Doesn't matter what works better, as it sits that cooler is more than sufficient for the OEM cooling of that OEM chip at OEM settings.

thats is a variable fact lad, i have seen computers running stock on heavy hot places such near beaches for example throttling at stock ... on 90% loads..just for giving an example...

Throttling and shutting off due to an overheat are two completely different worlds.
 

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He said he's lugging his pc about all over the place, maybe it's become unseated in which case it'll need reseating with fresh thermal paste. (After the old paste has been cleaned off).
Maybe, the whole thing is full of dust and needs cleaning (starting with the cpu cooler and fan).

The other item to check is to see if the cooler is sitting properly on the chip- some stock/OEM heatpipe coolers are too tight against the plastic adapters on the board. At those temps it is possible that the cooler is not mounted properly. Inspection of the old paste may reveal uneven pressure on the chip.
 

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Benchmark Scores well I've fried a 775' P4 12 years ago, that counts?
Doesn't matter what works better, as it sits that cooler is more than sufficient for the OEM cooling of that OEM chip at OEM settings.
o_O

Throttling and shutting off due to an overheat are two completely different worlds.
aye..... fist throttling... then shutdowns preventing it getting fried....
 

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o_O


aye..... fist throttling... then shutdowns preventing it getting fried....

I don't know what is confusing about this, but AMD manages to offer a warranty with those coolers on that CPU. That means it will work. It is guaranteed functionality. If he is reaching the temps at which his CPU is shutting off something is wrong. Do you need a picture drawn? He doesn't need a new cooler he needs to fix whatever is causing his system to overheat all the way to thermal shutdown.
 

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And CM Jetflo fans start at 120mm and don't fit on cpu cooler anyway.

Tell that to the 212 in my project box that apparently "doesn't" have a jet-flo attached and working perfectly. LOL.
 
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Your not the only one who puts oversized fans on a cpu cooler, I don't.

They aren't oversized? That would be like saying the scythe ultra kaze's I run on my rad are oversized...
 

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Your not the only one who puts oversized fans on a cpu cooler, I don't.
Oversized huh? Fits in the same space as a stock fan.

You really should only limit yourself to talk about what you know. That's what I do.
 
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That's what I do.
OK, so I just had a look at the size of your beloved Hyper 212 and seen that you're right.
So I'm going to have a look in my old pc junk box and pull out the old Hyper and see why I thought a 120mm wouldn't fit.
In the mean time seeing as it's Christmas, I apologise for annoying everyone about that.

So, it appears mine was a Hyper TX3, which would fit his case and is 10 bucks cheaper.
Now, if you'll excuse me, it's time for me to go and stand in the corner with a bucket on my head for the rest of the day.
 
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Benchmark Scores well I've fried a 775' P4 12 years ago, that counts?
OK, so I just had a look at the size of your beloved Hyper 212 and seen that your right.
So I'm going to have a look in my old pc junk box and pull out the old Hyper and see why I thought a 120mm wouldn't fit.
In the mean time seeing as it's Christmas, I apologise for annoying everyone about that.
Fan Dimension 120 x 120 x 25 mm (4.7 x 4.7 x 1 in)
informacion : official product site
you better read or investigate before posting.. every Hyper212EVO uses 120mm...
 
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every Hyper212EVO uses 120mm...
Yes, if you look very closely you'll see I already apologise for that so same goes too you right?
 
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Is it correct to say that rear fans should be stronger than those at the front ?
It's typically recommended to keep this balanced with a slight favor towards intake fans. This will create a positive pressure in the case and prevent dust coming in from the cracks. With filters on all the intake fans, it should keep dust to a minimum.
 
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MEH... overrated, positive 'pressure' ( I say pressure in quotes because a case isn't sealed so there isn't a pressure difference). I run with a fair amount more of exhaust than intake CFM and hardly any dust in the cracks/case(s).

EDIT: The key though, regardless of more CFM in/out, is airFLOW in the case. Typically you want a front/sides = intake, top/rear = exhaust for best airFLOW.
 
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