Mobile Audio?

[DOM]

Can we discuss that here?

 

[95Viper]

Ask @bogmali, he is one the mods on the forum...

 

[dorsetknob]

Homeless living in your car/ RV / Caravan of course you can

 

[Athlon2K15]

Id assume so, it is audio/video/HT section. You looking to put together a kickass car audio system?

haha my minivan lol

well need a new amp my old subs still bump killed my amp looking for a new one and a new box for 2 15 planet audio bb15dvc

900W RMS is a lot of power, you need a big amp lol

ITs been a long time since I have had any real car audio. I think the most I ever ran were JL Audio 12W3v2's and a 600w JL Audio Monoblock amp lol

 

[DOM]

That's to much work lol

Been Mia stopped oc and wanted to see if anyone on here is knowledgeable on car audio

Homeless living in your car/ RV / Caravan of course you can

haha my minivan lol

Id assume so, it is audio/video/HT section. You looking to put together a kickass car audio system?

well need a new amp my old subs still bump killed my amp looking for a new one and a new box for 2 15 planet audio bb15dvc

Those are the newer ones mine are older lol

BB15DVC
Power Handling (Peak) 1200 Watts
Power Handling (RMS) 600 Watts
Frequency Response 12 Hz to 350 Hz
Efficiency (1 Watt /1 Meter) 97 dB
Impedance Dual 2 OhmMagnet Structure 140 oz.
Mounting Depth 8-1/8

Also box i have is 40"L 17"w 16"h with center vertical port 2"x15.5

Seen a few online similar size but different inside more walls some tuned for different hz.

Everything is new to me as my subs are about 10 yrs old haha

So any old fart know about amps and subs?

I hate how some companies lie on there specs that's why I'm in loop cuz it's fusustrating

 

[Champ]

Right now I have two dB drive wdx 2ks 12s and the db mini 2k. Beastly setup. Interior is loosening and falling apart. Love me some bass.

 

[Filip Georgievski]

I have a little bit of knowledge around audio.
If you need some stuff, i can recommend door speakers, radios, amps, ellipse speakers and woofers.
JVC, Magnat, JBL, Clarion, Alpine - speakers and woofers
JVC, Alpine, Kenwood, Clarion - radios
Clarion, Kenwood, Pioneer, JBL - Amps

These are stuff i look for when purchasing car audio.
Few months ago i got 2 sets of Magnat 216 edition speakers and a JVC KD-X200 radio with 4 x 50W RMS.
Very nice and cheap combo for anyone looking for simple stereo setup. No need for woofer here, since speakers are very capable of producing woofer like bass.

 

[bogmali]

Ask @bogmali, he is one the mods on the forum...

I am a bit skeptical about it since I for one do not have first hand knowledge/experience about the subject and the forum is geared more towards multimedia audio and not much on the mobile side. For now I'll allow it unless I'm told otherwise

 

[kenkickr]

Are you hooking them up via parallel or series? 2ohm or 4ohm subs? Is the box or boxes sealed or ported? There are tons of options and quality out there and some of the best reliable amps can come from brands you've never heard off like Phoenix Gold, Boston Acoustics, etc.

Looking those subs up I'd recommend a amp that can put out the 900W RMS recommendation.

I would then try to find a quality 1200 Watt RMS amp to power those.

Depending on the amp they could be running in 4ohm if you have a 8ohm amp or 2ohm if the amp is 4ohm or even 1ohm if they are Dual Voice Coil on a 4ohm.....lots of answers/options I know my friend!!! A great read for you that might help can be found at Crutchfield

Sometimes it can be the equipment of your vehicle that aids in a amps diabolical end. Alternator, battery are the two common weak points.

Are they dual voice coil subs?

I am a Kenwood Excelon deck/amp nut with Kicker speakers/subs...hence my avatar name. I've never had a issue with either so sticking to my guns. JL Audio was my first amp/speaker with a Alpine deck setup in my 78 El Camino and they were expensive but very solid. The place went out of business is the reason why I went to my current lineup back in the day. Almost 40 now so don't get to play like I did.

 

[DOM]

Just found out mine are hooked up at 4ohm on the sub lol

Are you hooking them up via parallel or series? 2ohm or 4ohm subs? Is the box or boxes sealed or ported? There are tons of options and quality out there and some of the best reliable amps can come from brands you've never heard off like Phoenix Gold, Boston Acoustics, etc.

Looking those subs up I'd recommend a amp that can put out the 900W RMS recommendation.

I have two and there not hooked up to each other and ran to the amp separately not sure if that's bad

There 600 RMS and dual 2ohm specs on post 8

There in a dual 15" ported box right now but need a new one

Yeah thats the fun part Idk who's RMS is true and not looking to spend $300+ on a amp

Was thinking the low $200 but Idk if that's possible to get clean 1200 watts

So it's okay to run them separate to the amp?

There hooked up at 4ohm what kind of ohm is the amp trying to run with them hooked up like that?

Yeah I been on there the subs can be run at 1ohm alone and 2ohm together Or 4ohm aonle and 8ohm together

I'm learning more each day lol

But the amp I had was spl Ax2-2000 e-flux 2 chanel amp I was running them both hooked up bridge

When I first got it had a planet audio but don't remember the series or size but it blew a cap and smoked like crazy is what I remembered paid like 500 for it though think my older brother robbed me cuz he game me that spl and box as replacement smh

I been running them 4ohm Parallel

So let me read more cuz i can run them 1ohm parallel correct?

But now it's like what's better for the subs and amp, Series or parallel?

Are they dual voice coil subs?

yes

BB15DVC

Power Handling (Peak) 1200 Watts

Power Handling (RMS) 600 Watts

Frequency Response 12 Hz to 350 Hz

Efficiency (1 Watt /1 Meter) 97 dB

Impedance Dual 2 Ohm

Magnet Structure 140 oz.

Mounting Depth 8-1/8

DOM,
No car audio for you! How you been man?

haha alright moved back to my home town two yrs ago still here ready to gtfo of here laid off twice in a yr other then that okay lmao going to get my lineman and cdl in April so hope thats a more steady job cuz oilfield was good but not stable and doesn't look good anymore ha

Oh yeah 5th girl next due be here next month yeah I fucked I know lol

I ran a shop for about 12 years in my teenage to twenties years , make a list of your questions and I will try my best to answer them in a timely fashion.

(still a sucker for JL audio, all I use)

Yeah they seem to be good still I remember them back in the days lol


I'm looking for a box similar in size to what I have ported dual 15" 40x17x16 LxWxH can be a little larger but not by much

Looking for a good amp that can push 900-1800 RMS cheap but still clean watts

Any objection to building your own box? If you got the dimension, just run to home depot/lowes and pick up your own 3/4 MDF". Custom shops (not best buy, a real shop) build boxes too (we used to), and typically you can offer a price on the box.

Pre-built boxes are pretty standard. Unless you get something like a JL HO box, they use some funky tongue in groove methods using one sheet of wood.


For amp's clean and cheap likely wont be found in the same sentence. I am getting my account reset right now to my wholesaler to see what they have currently that falls into that range of RMS. (They carry JL, MTX etc... will let you know)

well length wise there isn't much more room just in H and W there's about 4 more inches or the speakers won't have much more to move

So don't know about building one cuz if I remember they need little below 3 cubic feet it had on the manual but haven't had luck looking it up haha

Yeah I know cheap and clean don't go together lol

But can I get something in the 200 range that's good?

Also what's good series or parallel for these subs? There dvc 2ohm

Well I seen a Planet Audio AC5000.1D put 1700 watts at 1ohm dyno tested amp cost 150$ lol

Yeah I might have to spend more then I want it seems lol

But what's crazy some amp's are over priced and watts are way off on some brands

Bam, on clearance:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...e_Comparison&gclid=CJDx8rnPncsCFQmqaQodxqYCLA

Haha anything you come across with more volts but look good for the price

I have a 5.0f cap

More watts

Is this anygood?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AUUHBY/?tag=tec06d-20

Don't shoot me haha

What about this....

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CRITGE4/?tag=tec06d-20

What's throwing me off alot of the good name brands don't offer much rms watts but cast an arm and a leg

more volts?

I meant Watts

Which box?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/15-inch-BLACK...rinth-Obcon-/361435772926?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Car-Audio-Dua...r-Enclosure-/231839911552?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

http://m.ebay.com/itm/15-DUAL-VENTE...R-ENCLOSURE-/262314822081?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

?

Last one I could find in know I should make one but I'm lazy don't have the tools and new baby coming Monday lol

http://m.ebay.com/itm/R-T-Enterpris...sure-328-15-/121031260721?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

Can anyone answer this since I lost my support it seems


what ohm will the amp will run with 2 dvc 2ohm subs in parallel at 4ohm or 1ohm?

Cuz I know in series it would run 2ohm is the lowest

 

[jaggerwild]

DOM,
No car audio for you! How you been man?

 

[Cybrnook2002]

I ran a shop for about 12 years in my teenage to twenties years , make a list of your questions and I will try my best to answer them in a timely fashion.

(still a sucker for JL audio, all I use)

Yeah they seem to be good still I remember them back in the days lol


I'm looking for a box similar in size to what I have ported dual 15" 40x17x16 LxWxH can be a little larger but not by much

Looking for a good amp that can push 900-1800 RMS cheap but still clean watts

Any objection to building your own box? If you got the dimension, just run to home depot/lowes and pick up your own 3/4 MDF". Custom shops (not best buy, a real shop) build boxes too (we used to), and typically you can offer a price on the box.

Pre-built boxes are pretty standard. Unless you get something like a JL HO box, they use some funky tongue in groove methods using one sheet of wood.


For amp's clean and cheap likely wont be found in the same sentence. I am getting my account reset right now to my wholesaler to see what they have currently that falls into that range of RMS. (They carry JL, MTX etc... will let you know)

900 RMS for $200, likely not.

My JL Audio 900/5 Amp (which is 900 RMS total) was about $700 when I bought it a few years ago. (Retail was about $1200 at the time)

Stay tuned, when I get my creds I will tell you what I can get.

Bam, on clearance:

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarA...e_Comparison&gclid=CJDx8rnPncsCFQmqaQodxqYCLA

Haha anything you come across with more volts but look good for the price

more volts?

 

[Champ]

Yeah. I'd cheap out on subs before amps but you shouldn't for either. Smoke and fire aren't fun in the car. He might be best going to a shop and getting a starter pack for about 3 or 4 hundred.

 

[Athlon2K15]

You can't go wrong with MTX,Kicker, JL or even Fosgate

If you are going to push massive amounts of power id suggest you look into getting at least a 1.5 farad cap or the lights in that car will be pulsing with your music. lol . I have still have an old Coustic 401db laying around somewhere if you just want something to get you by

 

[Cybrnook2002]

Honestly, I know I tapered off cause you are listing doozie equipment Of all the sub $200 items you are listing, you are basically floating in a pool of all the same, any would be fine if you feel that's what you want. (not sure why you breezed by the 1000 watt MTX I listed ;-) )

I feel you would be fine at a 2 ohm load. MTX always underrates their amps, so you will likely be around 700-750 RMS (True RMS), not a cheap doozie amp that calculates off of a 24volt load for 2 seconds. (Yes, they cheat like that).

And unless your planning on adding a few optima yellow tops on a battery isolator and upgrading your alternator as well as upgrading your ground wires , then your not doing it right to begin with as you are looking to draw currents your car is not designed for ;-).

It's all a circuit. So if you (and will need to) run 2 to 0 gauge power wire from the battery, you will need to ground the amp as well. Typically someone thinks that just running a 2 - 0 gauge ground wire to a seat belt bolt is good enough, WRONG. Because your still returning back to the car battery over its stock (typically 8 gauge) ground wire.

Common reason for headlight dimming as well.

No, what I am saying is when you ground your amp to the body, you car frame becomes the common ground. It then is connected back to your negative battery terminal by your stock ground wire. That needs to be upgraded.

You need to match what you are using for the amp while ALSO calculating for what your car is pulling. This is for the chassis to battery lead. So you Chassis to battery should be slightly larger than what you are using on your amp lead for positive.

 

[DOM]

Well I can't run 1ohm so I won't be able to get the full 1000 rms just 600 rms at 2ohms that's why I needed more watts

If I set the subs at @ 1ohm parallel it's .5 ohm and 4 ohm parallel 2 ohm?

Parallel is hooking up the sub separate correct?

Why you no answer me lol

Well just saw a utube and had to find my volt meter and found my old one had to jack the 9v from the smoke alarm lol

Shows 2.6-2.7 ohms with both wires together from the subs

But ones 4.2 and 6.6 separate that doesn't sound good...


And yeah seems I'm going to have to also invest in that I just spent 200 on a battery should of got a better one then the duralast h7 the car needs and Stock alternators only 160 amp

The terminal on the box was loose

Okay now down to 2.3 2.2 ohm so guess that's good

And what do you mean the ground wires? To the amp or to the car?

It has 4 gage and the cap is grounded to the body in the rear next to the amp and cap

So it needs to be grounded to the battery ugh not grounded anywhere? Shit, that's cuz I paid for them to put the line from the battery to the amp and that lil box for the rca

Okay yeah the battery are lil smaller then the 4 gage not by much

Stinger SK6201 a good kit? Cheapest I found was $117

But it's 1/0 gauge

So you need to use the 2/0 in the engine also right? Ground and power on the battery alternator?

 

[taz420nj]

Just something to keep in mind, the lower the ohms, the less control the amp has over the subs. Basically low ohms (<2) is only good for SPL - just a really loud system where you don't care much about quality. If you actually want the bass to be tight and responsive, and sound like it's supposed to instead of a giant loose fart, stick with 2 or 4 ohms.

And no, you shouldn't run grounds back to the battery. Grounds should be as short as possible because longer grounds make great antennas for picking up EMI/RFI. But what you DO need to do is increase the size of the grounds from the battery to the frame, battery to chassis, and battery to engine block.

 

[sneekypeet]

@DOM just because you have not been around in forever, does not mean the standards at TPU on posting in a thread have changed any. Please use the edit button from now on and stop posting multiple times without a responce between them!

 

[taz420nj]

So you need to use the 2/0 in the engine also right? Ground and power on the battery alternator?

The large stock wiring is mainly only being fully utilized while starting - the starter pulls 150 amps or more depending on how old and what kind of vehicle it is - and the wiring has to be able to handle that. But the actual demand of the car's systems while running is only about 40-50 amps total. Once you start talking wire sizes up into the aughts, the demand of the vehicle itself becomes a rather insignificant factor unless you're running multiple thousands of watts.. If you were to replace the current ground wires (which are probably 6 or 4 gauge) with 1/0, it will be fine for handing both the amp and the vehicle demands. There's really no reason to use 2/0 unless the amp demands it (1/0 is designed for up to 325A - which would be almost 3500W using a Class D/monoblock amp, 2/0 is designed for up to 400A).. The stock alternator isn't going to be able to keep up with that kind of power demand anyway, so if you're running that kind of power the wiring is only one thing you need to consider - otherwise you won't have enough power to keep the car running anyway.

The other wires you will want to upgrade is the charging wire that goes from the big post on the alternator to the fuse box, and the one from the fuse box to the battery (if this is a significantly older vehicle, it may simply go from the alternator directly to the battery).

 

[Champ]

I have a yellow top under the hood, a medium sized kinetic in the back and 0 gauge big 3. I still need a bigger alt. I want to upgrade to CT Sounds audio and get their subs and run two of their 1400s. A smallish setup like that can pull a ton of current.

 

[DOM]

Seen while searching around you can get more amps out of the stock but not sure how, Cuz I'm not sure there's a aftermarket for my car plus it's fwd

It's the opposite side of the battery on drivers side alt. On passenger's side and on the side near the firewall.... fml

 

[flmatter]

What kind of car do you have? Year, make model?

edit - or do a google search for high amp alternator and find the right one for your car.

 

[DOM]

$400 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88681_Mechman-Alternators-11580240.html



2011 dodge grand caravan 3.6L V6 Pentastar

 

[taz420nj]

MMkay like I said, with what you're looking at you're not going to be drawing that much power continuously so you shouldn't have a problem. I can't find the specs on the stock alternator by the Mopar number but the Denso replacement (Chryslers use a lot of Denso parts in the factory) is 160A, but there is also a 150A replacement available.. In your PDC - the fuse box under the hood - there will be a large fuse bolted between the wire to the battery and the wire to the alternator. That fuse should be 140A, 150A, or 160A. That will tell you what your alternator rating is.

Basically the way it works is you can have up to 160A total draw and still keep the battery charged while driving. Since the voltage regulator/alternator aren't responsive enough to keep up with a dynamic load like the amplifier, your battery and capacitor work as buffers. The cap can discharge its entire load instantly to buffer the huge bass drum hits, while the battery can buffer sustained draws in excess of what the alternator is putting out (long bass notes). The battery recharges the cap, and the alternator recharges the battery - but unless you are driving around ghetto blasting people's windows out, the system will never be pulling its maximum current all the time.. As long as the AVERAGE draw doesn't exceed the alternator's output, you'll be okay. Another thing you can do is put an overdrive pulley (smaller diameter, spins faster) on the alternator to make sure it reaches its peak output at a lower engine RPM.

 

[DOM]

Stock shows 160a but couldn't find the fuse and inside the box there's isn't a 100 anything

But got the amp in today probably going to get stoned to death lmao box isn't due toll next week so didn't wanna push it to hard

Idle is around 15v then drops to 12v when taking a load reading on cap volts reading screen