Getting back into water cooling - before I roll out a parts picker..

[newconroer]

I am looking to build a watercooling system for the first time in about a decade. I wanted some advisement either in design and/or products to address concerns I had with past setups. I used to loathe my LCS in the past because I could never take pieces away from the loop without draining the system first, which was also a hassle.
I want to be able to -occasionally- remove components.

This is to be used on a single GTX 1080 (not purchased yet, probably go with cheapest model out there, unless told otherwise). The CPU will not be in the loop as of yet however I do have an old Apogee GTX block for it.


Most likely I will order from Frozen PC, Overclockers.co.uk and/or Scan.co.uk


My ideas so far :

• All copper based items.
• 360 radiator (fans must use standard plugs/be swappable with aftermarket)Alphacool?
• Reservoir/pump combination, preferably a cylinder type tube. D5s seem really popular.
• 3/8" or decent sized tubing for liberal flow? Do people use this size any more? I remember arguments over whether 1/2" was too small
• Enough quick disconnect fittings to ensure that I can remove each component separately if necessary ; such as the GPU, reservoir/pump combo and/or radiator. Should I go with all elbow to save space and make it easier to unplug?
• A quick power block for the PSU to allow the pump to get power, without turning on the entire system.
• Coolant (anything is good I suppose?)

Hopefully this is a better investment than buying a GTX 1080 with an AIO cooler, though in terms of numbers here are the costs:

Cheapest GTX 1080 £524
EK GTX 1080 block + backplate £110
LCS system ??

Total so far : £634

Gigabyte Xtreme Waterforce GTX 1080 £749

Total : £749​

That leaves about £110 in variance, for the LCS system, which seems a bit of a stretch to get a decent system for that amount. I am willing to go beyond that - though would have to weigh the options presented.

On a side note, I still own a Koolance Exos II; which I could sit on top of the computer, however there are no entry points or tube holes in the case. I'd have to cut some out - most likely in the side panel where the fan vent is on the Define S.



Thanks a lot

 

[newconroer]

Also, what is this product (the one that you put into the powersupply to block it from turning on the system, yet it powers the pump for testing?

at 19:08

 

[RCoon]

Also, what is this product (the one that you put into the powersupply to block it from turning on the system, yet it powers the pump for testing?

at 19:08

A paperclip

I've used one for years. (Don't jam the paperclip in while its turned on, be safe)

http://cdn.overclock.net/f/ff/ffce0673_psu002jw4.jpeg

All copper based items.

That's going to get expensive

360 radiator (fans must use standard plugs/be swappable with aftermarket)Alphacool?

Radiator area calculation is basically 120.1 per component plus an additional 120.1 area for overhead. Basically for 1 x CPU + 1 x GPU you go for 360.1 (whether that's a 360 rad or a 240.1 and a 120.1 doesn't matter). I'm a fan of EK and XSPC.

Reservoir/pump combination, preferably a cylinder type tube. D5s seem really popular.

D5's are legit. You can always go for a 5.25 pump/res combo unit for convenience.

3/8" or decent sized tubing for liberal flow? Do people use this size any more? I remember arguments over whether 1/2" was too small

I'm using 13/10mm (3/8") in my 295x2 system. Depends how bendy you intend to design your loop.

Enough quick disconnect fittings to ensure that I can remove each component separately if necessary ; such as the GPU, reservoir/pump combo and/or radiator. Should I go with all elbow to save space and make it easier to unplug?

Quick Disconnects are hilariously expensive, and significantly reduce flow. I'd only ever run a single pair of QD's in a loop, for quick removal of the GPU, as you're unlikely going to need to specifically remove just the pump, res, CPU block or radiator.

Coolant (anything is good I suppose?)

Distilled water is hands down the best. You can buy 5 litres in the supermarket or garage for a £3

 

[the54thvoid]

Quick disconnects are not as great as they seem. I ran with four (expensive Koolance models). After a while (months, not years) I went to disconnect and the damn thing jammed. The fluid had picked up enough particulate to clog the fitting. Luckily leaked over floor. Not PC. I'd use the cheaper products (plastic disconnects) and place them away from mobo.

 

[newconroer]

This is what one shop suggested (note no quick disconnect but they do sell them)

1x MagiCool Copper Radiator III PRO - 360 mm £33.29
1x EK Water Blocks EK-FC1080 GTX - Plexi £66.66
1x XSPC D5 Photon 170 Reservoir/Pump Combo £95.79
2x 7/16" ID [16/11mm] High Flex Hose - Clear [1m Length] £4.98
6x EK Water Blocks EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Black £18.96
1x MH Mayhems X1 Blood Red Coolant £6.66
1x MH Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O Watercooling Fluid 1L 1 £4.16
6x XSPC G1/4" Plug (Black Chrome) £7.74


Notes:
I already have fans, though they are 140mm - not sure how to get those onto the radiator
The radiator is only 46mm deep. I can fit up to 60mm in the front slot of the Define S and have space for res/pump
The quick disconnect are about £14 each and can be straight or elbow


Question:
If I do not get the quick disconnect, but I do have plugs - I suppose I can sneak the plugs in quickly to stop too much leaking from the tubes.
However what do I use to plug the outlet/inlet on the GPU? Can you get caps?

 

[Dethroy]

I cannot really comment on the watercooling side of things, but I'd like to address the following part

This is to be used on a single GTX 1080 (not purchased yet, probably go with cheapest model out there, unless told otherwise).

So far almost all GTX 1080 models reviewed either here on TPU or other respectable sites have shown very similar OC results. So I'd say going for the cheapest offer is probably the right call. Good luck with your new build

 

[jaggerwild]

Quick note to OP
RES=HIGH
Drain=LOW

Always remember to TEST Loop with NO POWER to anything except the pump(give it time over nite to be safe). this way if you do get a leak no worries, fix and re test the system till your ready to power it on(remember you control when you feel OK with it)only then.

 

[newconroer]

Quick note to OP
RES=HIGH
Drain=LOW

Always remember to TEST Loop with NO POWER to anything except the pump(give it time over nite to be safe).

I figure the flush can be the test run, killing two birds with one stone.

 

[T-Bob]

Personally I like the Alphacool rads but almost any decent rad will work, just stay away from aluminum. Use 90 rotary fittings on gpu for space and to keep tubing bends in check. Also, I try to use D5 pumps since they seem to last for so long.

 

[newconroer]

Personally I like the Alphacool rads but almost any decent rad will work, just stay away from aluminum. Use 90 rotary fittings on gpu for space and to keep tubing bends in check. Also, I try to use D5 pumps since they seem to last for so long.

Ya going with an EK copper 360 60mm as that's what they have in stock. I'll get two quick disconnect elbow connectors for the GPU instead of the six.

 

[T-Bob]

Ya going with an EK copper 360 60mm as that's what they have in stock. I'll get two quick disconnect elbow connectors for the GPU instead of the six.

That rad should cool your system nicely. Also, glad that you decided on only 1 set of quick-disconnects

 

[newconroer]

Items are purchased now. One thing I wanted to clarify was whether I could use rainwater to do the initial radiator flush.
It's been sitting outdoors for a few weeks.

People have said rainwater left outside becomes distilled in time.

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

Items are purchased now. One thing I wanted to clarify was whether I could use rainwater to do the initial radiator flush.
It's been sitting outdoors for a few weeks.

People have said rainwater left outside becomes distilled in time.

I'd reflush with tap water myself but all in I doubt it matters if you remember to add a kill coil and some kind of anti fungel like Pt nuke to your loop.

 

[newconroer]

I'd reflush with tap water myself but all in I doubt it matters if you remember to add a kill coil and some kind of anti fungel like Pt nuke to your loop.

No, the loop will run distilled water only. I'd avoid using tapwater to flush, but rather than buying distilled (or trying to steam my own),, I presumed weeks aged rain water would suffice.

 

[TheoneandonlyMrK]

No worries I have not tried old rain water myself and think it dubious to be honest ,is it worth the trouble sorting out an issue if it happens, I'd just use distilled then.

 

[newconroer]

1. On the res/pump combo I have : http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-photon-170-reservoirpump-combo the fill port at the top is not a standard g1/4 thread and no adapter is included. I suspect given that there's three connections on the pump base, that it is intended. They are labelled out/in/in. Is the 'out' the return line from the system and the 'in' are from the reservoir to the radiator, which goes to the GPU block then back to the 'out' connection on the pump?
2. Does it matter if my pump is in elevation that is higher or lower than my GPU block (my only block in the loop)? I will be using both downwards inlet/outlets on the GPU block. I'd prefer to have the res/pump more near the bottom of the case than up high.
3. I want to have the radiator's inlet/outlet at the bottom of the case/bottom of the rad, so there's much shorter tubing run, than if they were at the top. Given that the reservoir has no top inlet option, it makes sense. I understand it's easier to bleed air if they are at the top, but the D5 pump should be strong enough to help alleviate that?
4. Will quick disconnects cause noticeable flow/temperature restrictions? I have a set I wanted to put on in case I need to remove the GPU for any reason.

Thanks