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Help me solve my instability issues.

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I have been having some instability for a few months now. I remember as early as July. It has always seemed to be a problem with ntoskrnl.exe. The recommended fix is don't overclock, or replace memory. I have tried both. The crashes didn't happen often so I just let it be. Over the last month the crashes are becoming increasingly common. I am beginning to notice errors on my desktop such as the windows desktop selection not being transparent like I set, but now having that opaque blue color instead.

I am about ready to reinstall windows, the cure all fix, but I am not prepared to do that yet.

<-- Specs are current and updated.
PSU, memory, and GPU were all upgraded on Sepetember 10th.
I am not running boinc, folding@home, or any other intensive software. I do game but the crashes have only ever happened when I am not present at the computer.

Here is some information on my crashes.
 
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Did you google it yet?

"Symptom 1: 0x0000007a error screen. This error is also known as KERNEL DATA INPAGE ERROR. It is usually caused by a bad sector, a virus, a hard disk error or a failing RAM memory."
 
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I have googled it. Bluescreen viewer has a nice feature that lets me google that crash at a click of a button.

That is one hard thing about making these posts. It is hard to remember what you have done and if it is relevant to share until you are reminded.

I have done various various virus and malware scans. (Avast, avira, and Malwarebytes)
As mentioned I replaced the memory already.
The SSD might be next but the smart data shows it being fine.

I do plan to reinstall windows at some point. I am just not ready yet.
 
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when you boot set defaults, to eleminate the OC till you find the cause. Are you over clocking the GPU, is so your settings? Some nvidia cards Clock setting need to be devided by the same number from default to overclock.
 
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when you boot set defaults, to eleminate the OC till you find the cause. Are you over clocking the GPU, is so your settings? Some nvidia cards Clock setting need to be devided by the same number from default to overclock.

As mentioned I have tried not overclocking.
The recommended fix is don't overclock, or replace memory. I have tried both.

To be more specific, the motherboard does not allow me to overclock the gpu. I have some voltage control but it is meaningless. The cpu, gpu, and memory are all at stock values and not overclocked and have not been for some time. The motherboard bios are entirely at stock. I last reset the bios on September 10th when I installed my new memory, gpu, and psu.
 
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Generally, if this happened to me, I'd reinstall windows and attempt to recreate the issue. If it still persists, I try unix OS.

If it still persists, then the general hardware puzzle solving begins.
 
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Have you tried down clocking various parts to see if the source shows it self, start with memory set to 1333 stock auto timings first...

@alacusa , swapping Os twice takes way longer than a few reboots and the wiped pc is no joy , it's down my list some ways I'm afraid.
 

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Hope the board aint screwy
 
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I had massive problems when i upgraded to Windows 10 ans chose to keep my apps and files from Windows 7, i got BSOD's for no reason, i did a fresh install with nothing carried over and it fixed the problem.
 

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Clear CMOS, set standard config, set XMP for RAM, etc. If no XMP profile, make sure you set the RAM correctly, don't be afraid to run up to 1.55V when testing if the RAM has errors too. But if at 1600 CL9 it needs over 1.50V, odds are those sticks are going bad...

Did you enable all cores to max turbo? Meaning all 4 can be loaded to the turbo 4.4GHz? If so disable that temporarily...though there should be 0 issues running that feature.

Run command prompt as admin, run CHKDSK against your SSD/HDD, if errors found, re-run as CHKDSK /F and reboot.

Check RAM XMP Profiles and run Memtest x86+ from a bootable USB or CD, I run 2 phases, one with a single core and one with all cores.

If pass, go into OS, open command prompt as admin and run SFC /SCANNOW

If fail, run DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth - this will check and attempt to fix some things, but may require the Image.WIM from the Windows 10 ISO to look at to repair your OS if it has corrupted files that weren't fixed on prior scans.

If pass, download OCCT, run Linpack test with 12MB RAM (minimum it'll allow), verify CPU stability. If pass, run with 90% RAM (max it'll allow).

If pass, run PSU test.

Re-installing Windows is not the cure-all here, and might not fix a damn thing. You might try an OS refresh instead of a re-install, so you don't lose your files and settings...I would run SFC and DISM first before a re-install...I've been able to fix so many OS installations with those commands too.

What are you running for AVAM? Anti-Virus / Anti-Malware?...consider disabling or uninstalling if it's Mcafee garbage.

Here's some reading material on 0X7A BSOD's: https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/ff559211(v=vs.85).aspx

It seems your BSOD's are happening because of how data is being handled, could be RAM, HDD or CPU IMC issue. But let's run some basic stability and diagnostic tests to see what the deal is...

I've run a few of those boards with no issues, but I do wonder if there's a driver or firmware issue. Could you re-install the current UEFI? There's a chance we have a board issue... do you have another S1150 CPU to toss in there for testing? You could pick up a Intel G3258 CPU for pretty cheap...hell I have one I might be willing to part with.

:toast:
 
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Clear CMOS, set standard config, set XMP for RAM, etc. If no XMP profile, make sure you set the RAM correctly, don't be afraid to run up to 1.55V when testing if the RAM has errors too. But if at 1600 CL9 it needs over 1.50V, odds are those sticks are going bad...
That has been done most recently on September 10th when I installed the new gpu, psu, and memory. I do have XMP on. The new memory sticks are 1.35v low voltage memory sticks.
Did you enable all cores to max turbo? Meaning all 4 can be loaded to the turbo 4.4GHz? If so disable that temporarily...though there should be 0 issues running that feature.
I have it on stock as mentioned.
Run command prompt as admin, run CHKDSK against your SSD/HDD, if errors found, re-run as CHKDSK /F and reboot.
I have tried this a few times, and did it right before I made this thread. No errors found.
Check RAM XMP Profiles and run Memtest x86+ from a bootable USB or CD, I run 2 phases, one with a single core and one with all cores.
I have not tried memtest. I should. Seeing as how I have tried with two sets of memory sticks I doubt it is the memory.
If pass, go into OS, open command prompt as admin and run SFC /SCANNOW
If fail, run DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth - this will check and attempt to fix some things, but may require the Image.WIM from the Windows 10 ISO to look at to repair your OS if it has corrupted files that weren't fixed on prior scans.
I could try that. EDIT: Windows found no integrity violations.
If pass, download OCCT, run Linpack test with 12MB RAM (minimum it'll allow), verify CPU stability. If pass, run with 90% RAM (max it'll allow).
I have not tried doing a stability test like that since the stability got poor. I can try that to see if it can force the issue. I ran boinc on this for well over a year without any issues, but that was long before the stability problems showed up. I could try that.
If pass, run PSU test.
As mentioned, it has a brand new PSU. The old PSU is still fairly new and solid. I just wanted a smaller PSU for my small case. Easier cable management.
Re-installing Windows is not the cure-all here, and might not fix a damn thing. You might try an OS refresh instead of a re-install, so you don't lose your files and settings...I would run SFC and DISM first before a re-install...I've been able to fix so many OS installations with those commands too.
By reinstall I meant refresh. I understand they are different but the result is practically the same thing. A refresh would keep my files but not my programs. I am not prepared to reinstall everything right now.
What are you running for AVAM? Anti-Virus / Anti-Malware?...consider disabling or uninstalling if it's Mcafee garbage.
Right now I am running bit-defender. As mentioned I have scanned with avast, avira, and malwarebytes.
I have read that. Came up in my google searches.
I've run a few of those boards with no issues, but I do wonder if there's a driver or firmware issue. Could you re-install the current UEFI? There's a chance we have a board issue... do you have another S1150 CPU to toss in there for testing? You could pick up a Intel G3258 CPU for pretty cheap...hell I have one I might be willing to part with.
I still have the intel G3258 I upgraded from over a year ago. I would rather reinstall or refresh windows than take the CPU out. It would take less time given this small case.
 
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Holy quotathon


:respect::toast:
 
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Holy quotathon
:respect::toast:
Just responding in a complete and organized way.

Hope the board aint screwy
That is actually what I am really afraid of.

Yeah?
It shouldn't take too long with SSD as long as you keep WIndows 10 ISO up to date.
I used to be set up to reinstall windows and all my programs within 30 minutes. I had to reorganize my storage solutions, of which I have not completed, so I am not prepared to do that 30 minute reinstall.
 
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Along time ago I downloaded Seagate disc wizard, and when I run into issues similar to this reinstalling an OS fresh is no problem it takes at most 30 minutes to flashback to the fresh back up omage and you're all done of course the back up has to be of a clean OS version, meaning no errors. Plus disc wizard is free

I know that this is something that's Not readily available now for you but it's something to keep in mind for the future you'll be glad you did it
 

Kursah

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That has been done most recently on September 10th when I installed the new gpu, psu, and memory. I do have XMP on. The new memory sticks are 1.35v low voltage memory sticks

40 days, I'd be doing it again for the sake of validation. I've had many issues resolved with CMOS clearing on Z87/97 chipsets. Might not change a thing, might be the difference.

I have not tried memtest. I should. Seeing as how I have tried with two sets of memory sticks I doubt it is the memory.

Absolutely give this a try..it could be the IMC in the processor too. The CPU has a 3-year warranty on it if that's the case. I'd have to look at my kid's gaming rig to see if you can adjust the VDDCIO voltage for the IMC though...I've seen plenty of bad memory cases...usually more-so in the DDR2-era rather than DDR3...but stranger things have happened. Doubt or not, testing will prove it. If you're having issues and want help, proving it is what we want you to do.

I have not tried doing a stability test like that since the stability got poor. I can try that to see if it can force the issue. I ran boinc on this for well over a year without any issues, but that was long before the stability problems showed up. I could try that.

I would recommend it. Other notable ones to try are Asus ROG Realbench, AIDA64, Intel XTU, Prime95...frankly I prefer OCCT and I do run Realbench as well as XTU on occasion if I need further validation.

As mentioned, it has a brand new PSU. The old PSU is still fairly new and solid. I just wanted a smaller PSU for my small case. Easier cable management.

The last thing you should do is assume it's good because it's brand new...you know what they say about assumptions. ;)

The OCCT PSU test is a very heavy test on the system and PSU... If your system powers off randomly, it's a bad PSU likely. If a BSOD occurs, then its likely a component issue.

By reinstall I meant refresh. I understand they are different but the result is practically the same thing. A refresh would keep my files but not my programs. I am not prepared to reinstall everything right now.

Then please be clear on what you're saying. Fresh install and refresh are not the same. In-place upgrade and refresh however are very similar. If you want clear help, please provide clear answers and descriptions. It's only fair.

Right now I am running bit-defender. As mentioned I have scanned with avast, avira, and malwarebytes.

Have you confirmed stability issues with them all removed? Odds are this isn't the case...but it doesn't hurt to verify.

I have read that. Came up in my google searches.

Cool, now use that information to focus on what specifically is failing. :)

Though it is cryptic to do (thanks MS!), and may or may not help. I have a feeling it is the MB or CPU. I have seen both fail in this generation of Intel...so neither would be all that surprising.

I still have the intel G3258 I upgraded from over a year ago. I would rather reinstall or refresh windows than take the CPU out. It would take less time given this small case.

Really? Over 5-10 minutes of your time vs. waiting for OS refresh? Why not try both then?

I have to take my kid's board out completely due to how the Cryorig H7 mounts and the case I'm using so I can't easily access the back of the board. And I can do that in 10 minutes flat without stressing....Frankly this is totally worth it. There's no guarantee that a refresh of your OS will fix anything, especially if there's no noticed corruptions found from SFC and DISM (not sure if you ran this too or just SFC...). This is a diagnostic metric, without doing this, you're not properly diagnosing your system. If it is the CPU, this would tell you and could save you time and headache. Also, might not hurt to check for bent pins, one that was just out far enough to not be much of an issue until after a year's worth of heat cycles...that's a far reach, but not unrealistic...and you'd be amazed at what one of those little gold pins can do to your system if it's outta line...it can be supremely infuriating and a pain in the ass to straighten!

But if you're not willing to do something suggested, makes it tough to want to continue verifying anything because...frankly you're running low on other things to try. Your call though.

Another thing you could try/check, and maybe you did, use something to verify the integrity of your SSD's SMART statistics. Maybe try a different HDD or SATA cable/port too if you have the options. Bad SATA cables can cause some weird things to happen...BSOD's included.

:toast:
 
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Then please be clear on what you're saying. Fresh install and refresh are not the same. In-place upgrade and refresh however are very similar. If you want clear help, please provide clear answers and descriptions. It's only fair.
It is more than fair. I realized my mistake as soon as you mentioned that.

Really? Over 5-10 minutes of your time vs. waiting for OS refresh? Why not try both then?
More like it takes about 30 minutes to remove my cpu cooler alone. I have a very large heatsink in a very small case.

Another thing you could try/check, and maybe you did, use something to verify the integrity of your SSD's SMART statistics.
As mentioned above, the smart data shows everything as good.

Maybe try a different HDD or SATA cable/port too if you have the options. Bad SATA cables can cause some weird things to happen...BSOD's included.
That would also be a good thing to try eventually. That is also a chore to do. It is really hard to access my sata connectors with this heatsink.
 

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Video Card(s) Palit GeForce RTX 4070 JetStream 12GB | CPU-based Intel Iris XE + RTX 3070 8GB 150W
Storage 4TB SP UD90 NVME, 960GB SATA SSD, 2TB HDD | 1TB Samsung OEM NVME SSD + 4TB Crucial P3 Plus NVME SSD
Display(s) Acer 28" 4K VG280K x2 | 16" 2560x1600 built-in
Case Corsair 600C - Stock Fans on Low | Stock Metal/Plastic
Audio Device(s) Aune T1 mk1 > AKG K553 Pro + JVC HA-RX 700 (Equalizer APO + PeaceUI) | Bluetooth Earbuds (BX29)
Power Supply EVGA 750G2 Modular + APC Back-UPS Pro 1500 | 300W OEM (heavy use) or Lenovo Legion C135W GAN (light)
Mouse Logitech G502 | Logitech M330
Keyboard HyperX Alloy Core RGB | Built in Keyboard (Lenovo laptop KB FTW)
Software Windows 11 Pro x64 | Windows 11 Home x64
Well remove the beast heatsink and use the OEM Intel heatsink for now. Really, if you're not OC-ing there shouldn't be any major issues unless your case has crappy airflow or you have higher ambient temperatures. If it'll get you closer to finding the solution instead of worrying about the next time your system crashes... 30 minutes is a small price to pay IMHO.

Keep us posted on what you end up doing and how it works out! :toast:
 
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