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when i turn on my computer it will shut off is it the power supply?

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i have a corsair AXi 1200 watt power supply and a asus crosshair v formula motherboard if i keep the system running all the time i have no problems but if i shut the system off sometimes i have a hard time getting it to start it go's past post then shuts off. the fans slow down before it shuts off. is my psu going bad? its two years old.
 
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Not necessarily. You can't say until you try different parts or run some test. If its overclocked I would turn that off first
 
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its not overclocked plus I don't have any extra parts for testing what I can do is take everything out of the case and start with minimum parts and slowly add parts to see if i can find out what the problem is
 
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its not overclocked plus I don't have any extra parts for testing what I can do is take everything out of the case and start with minimum parts and slowly add parts to see if i can find out what the problem is

First I would just disconnect all the drives and see if it boots to the bios consistently. Then I would remove the second GPU and try. Reseat the memory, stuff like that.

Also inspect the PSU cables, sometimes the ends come apart
 
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Also boot in to the BIOS and turn off Asus Anti-Surge if it is on.
 
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Also boot in to the BIOS and turn off Asus Anti-Surge if it is on.
I was going to suggest this too. I think that feature causes more grief for so many than it is worth. :(

Also inspect the PSU cables, sometimes the ends come apart
That too.

Before replacing any parts, I would try to borrow a PSU from another computer to make sure yours is not the problem. Everything else in your computer depends on good, clean stable power.
 
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thanks for all the suggestions i will give them a try
 
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where do i find the asus anti-surge in the bios?
 
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usually is under Monitor tab--->Fan speed control ;shall be at bottom ....
 
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I looked in the bios under fan speed control and found nothing. looked all over the bios there just isn't any anti-surge protection. however, I did see in the digi+ section a CPU over current protection I turned that up from 120% to 140% but I don't think that is the problem I don't have a overclock on the system.
 
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Wow, time sure flies. I did not realize that motherboard came out in 2011. According the manual, your motherboard does not have ASUS Anti-Surge.
 

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Take board out of case, put on non conductive surface On a box with a gpu by itself,with keyboard, mouse, monitor. Try a different power strip or outlet even, use the onboard power switch.
 
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The boards probably on its way out...
 
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I don't think it's the motherboard I have a feeling it's the PSU because I have all the fans hooked directly to it and they speed up and slow down up and down all the time
 

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I don't think it's the motherboard I have a feeling it's the PSU because I have all the fans hooked directly to it and they speed up and slow down up and down all the time
Do you have, or can you get, a digital multi-meter? If so, I would recommend measuring voltage output on your 12V rail(s).
 
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I don't think it's the motherboard I have a feeling it's the PSU because I have all the fans hooked directly to it and they speed up and slow down up and down all the time
That's a good sign but not conclusive. The PSU must supply 3 stable voltages; 12V, 5V and 3.3V. The 12V is often distributed on multiple rails. Fans connected directly to the PSU typically use just 12V and don't require that 12V to be exactly 12V, or very stable either. But the point is, spinning fans does mean all the necessary voltages (or rails) are correct.

High speed digital devices need the supplied voltages to be within tight tolerances and very stable. This is why the ATX Form Factor standard specifies no more than ±5% deviance.

Multimeters cannot conclusively test power supplies. To properly test a PSU, it MUST be done under a variety of realistic loads. And most multimeters don't test for ripple or other AC component anomalies riding the DC either. To properly test a PSU, it must be done under proper loads using an o'scope or power supply analyzer (sophisticated and expensive test equipment) by a qualified technician (someone trained to properly understand and able to analyze the results). So for most users, swapping in a known good supply is the only way to verify a supply is good, or bad.

@skellattarr - run HWiNFO64 to check your voltages and again, they should be within ±5%.

12VDC ±5% = 11.4 to 12.6VDC
5VDC ±5% = 4.75 to 5.25VDC
3.3VDC ±5% = 3.14 to 3.47VDC
That said, since your computer runs just fine otherwise, I don't believe the voltages will tell you anything - or that the PSU is bad.

I fear your PSU is not receiving the signal to start when this problem appears. That does indicate a motherboard problem, or the case's front panel switch is failing. If your case has a Reset button, I recommend you move the two wires from the Reset button to where the two wires from the power button connect to the motherboard. Then use the Reset button as your power switch and see what happens. Be sure to unplug your PSU from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in your body BEFORE reaching in.

If that works fine, then it probably is just your power switch failing. This is not uncommon. Often, these switches become loose (perhaps from being pushed too often, or too hard) and the metal tension prongs holding the switch in place lose tension, or the plastic housing breaks. The contacts of the switch then fail to make a good, solid contact next time you press the button. Carbon and dirt then build up between the contacts and the problem continues to deteriorate until the switch fails every time. If held in place with metal prongs, you can often CAREFULLY bend those tension prongs back in place, then clean the contacts of the switch with a quick blast of a good electrical contact cleaner. If the switch is held in place by molded plastic, you might be able to glue it back in place, or just use the Reset button from then on.
 

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If your boad has a power switch mounted, use that. As Bill said case power switches do go bad.
 
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If your boad has a power switch mounted
I have one of these in the shop we use for troubleshooting outside the case but I have never seen a motherboard (or computer) come with a switch.
 
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I have one of these in the shop we use for troubleshooting outside the case but I have never seen a motherboard (or computer) come with a switch.

He's talking about this



 
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my board has a power switch and a reset switch and a mem ok button. when i press the power switch on the board it does the same thing even the mem ok will do the same. the system if it sits for a while it will start up normally about 50% of the time. i em running two gtx 780 card in the system with two eight pin power plugs and two six pin power plugs on them and one molex plug on the board for extra power to the pcie slots i wonder if i have too much power on one of the 12v rails
 
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and one molex plug on the board for extra power to the pcie slots

Can you post a photo from that?
Never seen a motherboard that needs an "extra" molex plug for the PCIE slots....
 

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The Anti-Midas
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Can you post a photo from that?
Never seen a motherboard that needs an "extra" molex plug for the PCIE slots....
Oh, it's been a feature that's been around for years. I remember building an X48 system that had a floppy connector, then a P55 that had a molex, and now my current X79 has a 6-pin for the same reason.
The majority of users will NEVER need this, however. The point is to provide extra power to the PCIe slots when you're running multiple heavily-overclocked cards, as in a sub-zero bench run. Simply running two cards in CF/SLI, even overclocked, should not require the use of this extra power connector.
@skellattarr You should unplug this molex, it provides no benefit for you. You will see zero difference (performance-wise or in rectifying the issue you're having) whether it is plugged in or not.
 
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