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EVGA 1080 CLASSIFIED - DETAILED PCB PICTURES (17 PHASE VRM - 14+3)

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Instead of AB, you could try PrecisionX. It's slightly tweaked and in some cases works better with EVGA cards.
 
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Instead of AB, you could try PrecisionX. It's slightly tweaked and in some cases works better with EVGA cards.

I have both, but thanks for suggestion though.

The max power limit (using sliders) on both apps is 130%. << how "high" that slider goes is the same on every app and is determined by your BIOS. (For example I have a dual BIOS card). With BIOS switch set to "master" the slider will max to 122% but in "slave" it will max to 130%. :)

130% on my Classified is 320W. (Which is already massive for a card designed with a 180W TDP).

To give you some idea of what that means, with my card overclocked to its absolute limit on core + memory and fans at 100%. The 3DMark Firestrike Ultra benchmark (4k) will make the card peak at around 290W). Cards with a lower power limit will downclock running this benchmark, losing points.

So arguably I don't actually *need* to unlock the power on this card. Since its factory max power limit is already so high. Only furmark can max it out.

But.. I want to have the knowledge now, so when I begin prepping for LN2 the learning curve at that time, will be smaller :) Because with LN2, 320W will NOT cut it :)
 
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the54thvoid

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I have both, but thanks for suggestion though.

The max power limit (using sliders) on both apps is 130%. << how "high" that slider goes is the same on every app and is determined by your BIOS. (For example I have a dual BIOS card). With BIOS switch set to "master" the slider will max to 122% but in "slave" it will max to 130%. :)

130% on my Classified is 320W. (Which is already massive for a card designed with a 180W TDP).

I have a 980ti Kingpin under a modified Bitspower waterblock. EVGA PrecisionX has 'extras' added to help give more accurate voltage readings than AB. Thought the Classy 1080 may have benefited from similar 'tweakery'. In the past I did use AB on volt modded (via BIOS flash and software hack) original Titan. I understand BIOS and what it does ;)
 
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You might want to check KP forums for an updated classy tool. Might be able to do this through SW
 
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But.. I want to have the knowledge now, so when I begin prepping for LN2 the learning curve at that time, will be smaller :) Because with LN2, 320W will NOT cut it :)

Just wait for the unlocked bios?
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
What extras would evga P have over msi ab to have more accurate voltage readings? it's reading the same sensor... are you saying there are different readings it can't get but only if it's evga? what am I missing there?
 

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What extras would evga P have over msi ab to have more accurate voltage readings? it's reading the same sensor... are you saying there are different readings it can't get but only if it's evga? what am I missing there?

It was on Kingpin Cooling site when the Kingpin 980ti was released. It's a better read of the actual voltage used - not obviously as good as a Digital Volt meter but better than standard. I believe the Kingpin card has some dedicated hardware for that purpose so it can read the actual voltage more accurately.

Here it is:

Enabling real voltage monitor

There is one more trick, regarding voltage readout in Precision X and K|NGP|N Edition cards (both 980 and 980Ti flavours). As you all already know, software is unable to show real voltage supplied to GPU, it shows what GPU VID setting currently is, not actual voltage. Most of users are not aware of this detail, and expect to see real voltage. That's why we often get confused people in forums, who see LN2 records with 2000MHz clocks and asking how is that possible with only 1.212V?

Well, KPE cards have a solution for this, as Precision X can actually read real voltage. KPE PCB have special circuitry to measure real voltage delivered to GPU chip and Precision X can get that reading.

http://forum.kingpincooling.com/showthread.php?t=3820
 
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On precision X you could (in the past) hold, cntrl, shift + middle mouse button to reveal a secret "hidden" extra window to enable the *more accurate voltage monitoring* however more recent versions of Precision X don't seem to have this. Or (as the54void pointed out it was only on KPE cards) -- so maybe Precision X "knows" which card you have and won't give you the *hidden window* unless it detects the KPE.
 
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On precision X you could (in the past) hold, cntrl, shift + middle mouse button to reveal a secret "hidden" extra window to enable the *more accurate voltage monitoring* however more recent versions of Precision X don't seem to have this. Or (as the54void pointed out it was only on KPE cards) -- so maybe Precision X "knows" which card you have and won't give you the *hidden window* unless it detects the KPE.

Precision X has become a mess in my opinion
 
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Precision X has become a mess in my opinion

I agree, the overclock scanner is an *absolutely fantastic* idea.

Yet if they could actually get it working properly (and there isn't even much wrong with it -- apart from its ability to properly "save + resume" as it goes.
 

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Hi @Nicholas Peyton

I have a question.

Evga had released 2 Bios for those cards with heat issues, my cars doesn't have that problem but when the primary Bios was available i downloaded it and installed it honestly i don't know why i did it, btw, now the secondary Bios is available i downloaded but i have not install it because i have a doubt and here is my question: when installing the Bios do i have to switch the Bios button from primary to secondary or it doesn't matter?
 
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I have a dual BIOS on my RX 480. You must switch to the BIOS chip you want to over-write.


 
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I have a dual BIOS on my RX 480. You must switch to the BIOS chip you want to over-write.

Ungari is right, :)

Also make sure you disable the display driver in Device Manager before you do the flash.

Then restart the computer.

Then if not automatically re-enabled (re-enable it).

Disabling Device Driver:
1. My computer (or "This PC") depending on Windows Version
2. Right Click and select 'properties'.
3 Device Manager
4. Display Adapters (double click)
5. Right click "Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080" (or other graphics card) and disable
6. Flash BIOS.
7. Restart computer

Enable Device Driver:
8. After PC boots back up follow procedure above but this time select enable.
9. May need to restart computer again.

1st BIOS is called "Master" or "Normal" depending on when you bought the card.
2nd BIOS is called "LN2" or "Slave" depending on when you bought the card.

You can check you have done it properly by checking the maximum power % on the Power Slider in MSI AB or Precision X.
First BIOS ("Normal") should only go to 122%.
Second BIOS ("Slave" or "LN2") will go to 130%.

Have a great day :)

Nick Peyton
 

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This is what i have.

1 = Primary BIOS?

2 = Secondary BIOS?

If it's so, why the default BIOS is set on #2?

Screenshot_2016-11-25-08-36-40.png
 
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@Knoxx29
I don't know if this picture helps as I understand there are two versions of this card with different naming schemes for the BIOS SWITCH, but it shows which position is for MASTER/SLAVE.

My understanding is that the SLAVE has a different Fan Curve that constantly runs even at idle speed.



 
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And this is the other version which I have:

LN2 bios.jpg



Both cards are exactly the same; they've just changed the 'print' beside the switch.

I think this was done after they realised you don't get much more O/C'ing headroom on Pascal until you start going LN2. I would guess Kingpin (who is a big sponsor of EVGA) probably recommended this.

Both cards and BIOS on both revisions are exactly the same in every way.

I downloaded the same "updated BIOS" for the thermal pad issue as everyone else who had earlier versions.
 
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I think this was done after they realised you don't get much more O/C'ing headroom on Pascal until you start going LN2. I would guess Kingpin (who is a big sponsor of EVGA) probably recommended this.

Yes, there are some who report that they could not get anymore than 50Mhz extra boost clock on their Classified, leaving them asking why they paid extra money when even a reference PCB could accomplish the same results on air.
The extra power phases only come into play on subzero cooling.
 
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Yes, there are some who report that they could not get anymore than 50Mhz extra boost clock on their Classified, leaving them asking why they paid extra money when even a reference PCB could accomplish the same results on air.
The extra power phases only come into play on subzero cooling.

The "stock boost" is 1860mhz for a 1080 Classified. I can get it completely stable at 2152mhz and semi-stable (enough to get a 3dmark validation) at 2202mhz with a low ambient temperature (8c).

Considering these GPU's were only designed to run at a boost of 1733mhz that is a MASSIVE overclock (+467mhz overclock).

An updated 1080 Classified voltage controller came out last week too. Which supports voltage increases for Core, Memory & PCI-E.

Here's a graph with some memory benching I done which compares results between memory at stock 1.37v (stock) and 1.5v: (60 benches total to create this graph)




1080 MEMORY BENCHMARKING
MEMORY BENCHING GRAPH.jpg


EDIT:
*Don't pay too much attention to 1.5v at 675 (I had to do +675 the following day as I missed them) so "different day" factors probably changed results).

Whats interesting though; is before I performed these benches (and put it into graphical form) I assumed my max stable memory O/C was around 500 - 650. Yet this graph still shows a very small, but steady increase all the way up to +925. Artifacts/Crashing begun at +950.

Another interesting factor is performance seems higher every 50mhz, so:
725,
drop,
775,
drop,
825,
drop,
875, drop,
925.

Think it must be caused by the timing "synchronises" with the clock which causes this. Having it "synchronise" better by choosing a number with a better ratio also seems to give stability improvements.

Also not had a chance to test a more "medium" memory voltage boost yet (1.46v for example) but that's my project for this weekend.

Also: I ran 2 benches for each +offset, or 3 if I got an unexpected result.

Its a pitty there isn't software that could automiatically run benches and change the MSI-AB settings as it goes. Imagine waking up in the morning to all your numbers :)

Anyway more importantly:
Kingpin says voltage doesn't do much past 1.2v on Pascal.

But the nvidia limit is 1.093v. So That's still just over 100mv headroom.

I'm waiting for my waterblock to arrive (this weekend) before I begin playing with voltage on the core.
 
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Sorry for the late reply.

Btw.

This morning i managed to flash the card,
i was so stupid that i never noticed there was on the card marked LN2 and Normal :D until this morning when i take out of the machine my card:roll:

IMG_20161125_122645.jpg



The "stock boost" is 1860mhz for a 1080 Classified.

Weird, mine stock boost is 1987MHz
 
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Sorry for the late reply.
Btw.
This morning i managed to flash the card,
i was so stupid that i never noticed there was on the card marked LN2 and Normal :D until this morning when i take out of the machine my card:roll:

Weird, mine stock boost is 1987MHz
????


Really, are you sure? Could you do a GPU-Z screenshot please and upload?


Here's mine:
1860 gpuzHow.jpg
 
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????


Really, are you sure? Could you do a GPU-Z screenshot please and upload?


Here's mine:
View attachment 81347
Sorry i guess that i misunderstood what you meant.

What i meant was that when i open Evga precision and launch any GPU test the GPU maximum boost is 1987MHz
 
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ahhh I see okay great :)

mine boosts to about the same out of the box (between 1987 and 2025) depending on temperature, voltage limit %, and power usage. :)

Whats the highest you've had her?

(There's also a Classified 1080 updated voltage tool released a few weeks ago too) -- don't know if you've tried it :)
 

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Whats the highest you've had her?

If i am not wrong 2200+ without touching the voltage or power limit, i have a few Screenshots some where on my Machine, i will check to be sure.

Since last month i have it at 2100MHz as always without touching the Voltage or power limit, the 1080 Classified at stock it's powerful enough to play any Game that's why 2100MHz are more than enough, maybe when it will be Watercooled i will push it further, so far i haven't seen the Card hitting 65c.
 
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