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Durvelle27

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Well if you go with the ERL, it is not a wireless router, but strictly a gateway/firewall router. Not sure if you viewed the links provided on it in previous posts or not, but I believe I linked to it from the Amazon page for you.

So if you go that route, then plan on a second AP that you mount in that area for coverage.

If you go the Asus route, well that's a wireless router so you'd be set up front, use an UniFi AP in the back.

So you could do the Asus router if you insist on keeping things simple and effective for a home-grade solution, and a UniFi AP for the back area and have the coverage you need and the ability to mount the AP. This will be around $130 for both parts if prices are still the same as they were last week. I haven't checked on the Asus sale @ TMobil... if it's back up to $200, then that deal is gone.

EDIT: I checked and the TMobil deal is still on...they have a stupid credit check (that doesn't actually check your credit, just choose I Have AWESOME Credit if it asks). Use the -$40 code, $59.

https://www.t-mobile.com/accessory/t-mobile-wi-fi-cellspot-router

Keep in mind I do not recommend running the TMobil AsusWRT firmware version, its far behind and not secure. It's worth flashing the Asus CFI Identifier over, and flashing to an AsusWRT, MerlinWRT or Tomato firmware. Even for the AP. Totally worth the effort.
Hmmmmm ok
 
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I think the best way to avoid "waste" would be to get the ASUS router and see if that alone satisfies your needs, my guess is that it will. If not, you can always use it as an AP and get an ERL. That ASUS router is a great router and awesome value at 60$.

Personally, I'm going with the ERL+UAP AC Pro setup in my house, because I like to tinker, and I want a pretty AP with PoE, but I really don't need it at all, and I'm okay with that. If you would be too, the Ubiquiti way will be the fun way. I know I will be installing similar setups for other people too, so might as well learn to do it at my place first!
 

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I never asked this

Is it possible to do

Modem
Switch
Unifi AP
Unifi AP

Instead of

Modem
Router
Switch
AP
 

Solaris17

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Benchmark Scores I dont have time for that.
I never asked this

Is it possible to do

Modem
Switch
Unifi AP
Unifi AP

Instead of

Modem
Router
Switch
AP

No, you need a router unless your modem is also a router. The APs and switches on their own have no way to track IPs the way a router does.
 

Durvelle27

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No, you need a router unless your modem is also a router. The APs and switches on their own have no way to track IPs the way a router does.
Nawl it's a standalone DOSC3.0 modem that supports 172MB downstream
 

Durvelle27

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Aside from the ASUS and the Ubi

What do you guys think of these routers

Netgear R6100
Netgear R6300
D-Link Dir-820
D-Link Dir-860L
TP-LINK C20i
ASUS AC53U

Paired with a Unifi AP
 

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The router is the gateway to the internet...its the device keeping your network private, among many other capabilities like in your case would probably be dhcp, DNS, port forwarding, session filtering and firewall, subnet management, etc. Definitely don't want to go without (really really bad idea) or skimp here. It wouldn't go well for you without one...

As suggested above you could start with the cheaper Asus $60 option. Its a nice budget router and might do all you need and provide WiFi to the front of your home.

Aside from the ASUS and the Ubi

What do you guys think of these routers

Netgear R6100
Netgear R6300
D-Link Dir-820
D-Link Dir-860L
TP-LINK C20i
ASUS AC53U

Paired with a Unifi AP

As routers...no..the only one maybe worth a damn is the R6300 and for the money you'd be wiser to go with the Asus TMobil deal or ERL from Amazon Prime for a router.
  • Netgear R6100 - Meh...I've replaced a few due to failures...they also run hot in my experience. Pass.
  • Netgear R6300 - Had better luck with these as an AP, but the Asus and ERL are better performers at routing. Though this one is decent and with DD-WRT would likely be decent...but why you'd pay more for this than the Asus TMobil deal or almost the same as a more capable ERL would be beyond me.
  • D-Link Dir-820 - No
  • D-Link Dir-860L - No...
  • TP-LINK C20i - Sigh...getting worse
  • ASUS AC53U - Ummm...why? When you can get an AC68U for $60 would you even consider this?
There's a reason the ERL, ERX and Asus AC68U keep getting suggested, its because they're all good. The AC68U is only here because it's not running $150+...if it were I'd call it an overpriced home-grade router and I'd rather spend a little more and build my own PFSense box or spend just more than half and have an ERL.

Maybe spend a little more time researching what was suggested and what you listed to compare, review them, see the pros, cons, mods, options, things you'll have to deal with (pitfalls, disappointments, underperformances). Your router list has me confused as to what you're looking for unless your just grasping for a cheap wireless router for the front...if so, you won't beat the Asus deal right now...but don't screw around before that deal's up if that's what you're looking for. If it's out...then the R6300 becomes the best option on your list....but then I'd suggest an ERL and UniFi for the front too instead.

:toast:
 

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The router is the gateway to the internet...its the device keeping your network private, among many other capabilities like in your case would probably be dhcp, DNS, port forwarding, session filtering and firewall, subnet management, etc. Definitely don't want to go without (really really bad idea) or skimp here. It wouldn't go well for you without one...

As suggested above you could start with the cheaper Asus $60 option. Its a nice budget router and might do all you need and provide WiFi to the front of your home.



As routers...no..the only one maybe worth a damn is the R6300 and for the money you'd be wiser to go with the Asus TMobil deal or ERL from Amazon Prime for a router.
  • Netgear R6100 - Meh...I've replaced a few due to failures...they also run hot in my experience. Pass.
  • Netgear R6300 - Had better luck with these as an AP, but the Asus and ERL are better performers at routing. Though this one is decent and with DD-WRT would likely be decent...but why you'd pay more for this than the Asus TMobil deal or almost the same as a more capable ERL would be beyond me.
  • D-Link Dir-820 - No
  • D-Link Dir-860L - No...
  • TP-LINK C20i - Sigh...getting worse
  • ASUS AC53U - Ummm...why? When you can get an AC68U for $60 would you even consider this?
There's a reason the ERL, ERX and Asus AC68U keep getting suggested, its because they're all good. The AC68U is only here because it's not running $150+...if it were I'd call it an overpriced home-grade router and I'd rather spend a little more and build my own PFSense box or spend just more than half and have an ERL.

Maybe spend a little more time researching what was suggested and what you listed to compare, review them, see the pros, cons, mods, options, things you'll have to deal with (pitfalls, disappointments, underperformances). Your router list has me confused as to what you're looking for unless your just grasping for a cheap wireless router for the front...if so, you won't beat the Asus deal right now...but don't screw around before that deal's up if that's what you're looking for. If it's out...then the R6300 becomes the best option on your list....but then I'd suggest an ERL and UniFi for the front too instead.

:toast:
Just to clarify

I ordered the ProSafe Switch and a single Unifi AP

Router is what has me contemplating. Not necessarily going cheap just looking around at options on the market.
 

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I would have skipped the switch and grabbed the edge router.
 

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I would have skipped the switch and grabbed the edge router.
But I need the switch due to needing multiple Ethernet ports for various devices in multiple rooms.
 

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But I need the switch due to needing multiple Ethernet ports for various devices in multiple rooms.

Router is the brain of the system. It should always be above reproach. Any switch can do well enough, the router controls it.
 

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Router is the brain of the system. It should always be above reproach. Any switch can do well enough, the router controls it.
Really now
 

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Really now

Yes the switch is there simply to pass off traffic to the right device as quickly as it can at its most basic level.

Consider a switch as a port multiplier for lack of a simpler explanation. Managed switches can do some routing and dhcp, but they are not firewalls, they wont' protect your network...it serves a different purpose than a router does.

The extra LAN ports on a router? Yah that's pretty much a 4-port switch added on the router's PCB. The router controls the network (DHCP, DNS, Firewall, being the gateway, etc).

It seems to me you might not necessarily know why these devices are needed completely, and that's fine, but maybe we can better educate you on these topics as this thread progresses. Here's a quick read for you on standard network appliances. There's far more material out there...but that article is easy to digest and get you started.

These devices all server a purpose for your network and services. ;)
 
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Since you went with a Ubiquiti AP, I'd pair it with an ERX if you want value or an ERL
 

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Yes the switch is there simply to pass off traffic to the right device as quickly as it can at its most basic level.

Consider a switch as a port multiplier for lack of a simpler explanation. Managed switches can do some routing and dhcp, but they are not firewalls, they wont' protect your network...it serves a different purpose than a router does.

The extra LAN ports on a router? Yah that's pretty much a 4-port switch added on the router's PCB. The router controls the network (DHCP, DNS, Firewall, being the gateway, etc).

It seems to me you might not necessarily know why these devices are needed completely, and that's fine, but maybe we can better educate you on these topics as this thread progresses. Here's a quick read for you on standard network appliances. There's far more material out there...but that article is easy to digest and get you started.

These devices all server a purpose for your network and services. ;)
Looked at the link and majority of all that I already knew :p

I just stated that for his comment of any switch would do
 

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Looked at the link and majority of all that I already knew :p

I just stated that for his comment of any switch would do

Well any switch can do a basic switch's job, but depending on speed, reliability, and feature set that you need that's where things change.

The reason I posted the link is because you seemed to be questioning needing a router and just using a switch instead, which makes no sense if you do understand networking in that article I linked. Not a jab against you, but just trying to confirm what you do know vs. what you're saying in this thread.

Now you had mentioned earlier that if you could just use it like this: Modem > Switch > AP's

And frankly that tells me you don't necessarily understand the importance of having a router in and managing your network, and I want to make sure that it is very clear why you need and should have a good one. This shouldn't be a question, it should be known. And if I can help educate you to know this, I sure as hell well make it happen! :)

Understanding how a basically router works, for a firewall and gateway, it gets the 1 IP address from your ISP. That is your WAN, Wide Area Network address...your one address from the ISP. This is your access or gateway to the Internet through the ISP's network. Unless you're a business owner or have a complex home lab setup, odds are you only have and pay for one IP address and not a block of addresses.

Then the router creates and hosts a LAN, or Local Area Network. Uses DHCP, Dynamic Host Control Protocol to send out IP addresses so that devices can access your LAN and thus the Internet. The router performs NAT, or Network Address Translation, because they have a LAN address but not a WAN address.

So there is a mask request where packets are flagged for each LAN address so that you can have sessions for things like streaming, email, Internet, VoIP, etc. for each device in your LAN. This is a critical part when on IPv4 since all the public IPv4 addresses have been used up...there's merely not enough for each of your home devices to have its own WAN IP address and you wouldn't want that unless each device had a good quality firewall filtering system in-place...it'd be akin to leaving all your doors and windows on your house open, Main St. pulling up to your front door, and all your cars and private things open and unlocked. Anyone could walk in, dig in or take whenever they wanted without any effort aside from knowing your address(es). No bueno.

I won't go into how various firewall systems work, port forward, etc... I am sure you can look those up or already have a grasp on them..but I want to ensure after the last page and a half of conversation taking a different leg from where I thought it was going, I was concerned that I'm over-assuming your knowledge of network devices and again just want to make sure that you understand how a router works and why you require one on your network so it's not a question of if you should get one, but which one should you get and why (which has been explained several times in this thread by me already ;) ).

Ultimately, I just want to make sure you have a handle on that concept so that you know how important having a router is to a network, in your case a home network. Each device I've mentioned can serve a purpose in the overall goal of your home network, it's quality, stability, security and reliability. Helping educate you to make an informed decision so you're not looking at $20 D-Links thinking they're comparable to a $80 Edgerouter Lite3 or $150 Asus, but knowing what to look for and get into so that you're doing a better investment into your home network for something that will last and keep you and your devices going for years to come. :toast:
 

cdawall

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Looked at the link and majority of all that I already knew :p

I just stated that for his comment of any switch would do

That's because any switch will do. I use a set of cheap dlink 10/100/1000's they provide the batch of added ports needed for my setup. The router however is a higher class product and should be.

This changes some if you need POE, managed switch etc. The nice thing about the ubiquity stuff is it all syncs together so having the switch isn't bad I would have just gone for the router before even thinking about the switch.
 

eidairaman1

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Well any switch can do a basic switch's job, but depending on speed, reliability, and feature set that you need that's where things change.

The reason I posted the link is because you seemed to be questioning needing a router and just using a switch instead, which makes no sense if you do understand networking in that article I linked. Not a jab against you, but just trying to confirm what you do know vs. what you're saying in this thread.

Now you had mentioned earlier that if you could just use it like this: Modem > Switch > AP's

And frankly that tells me you don't necessarily understand the importance of having a router in and managing your network, and I want to make sure that it is very clear why you need and should have a good one. This shouldn't be a question, it should be known. And if I can help educate you to know this, I sure as hell well make it happen! :)

Understanding how a basically router works, for a firewall and gateway, it gets the 1 IP address from your ISP. That is your WAN, Wide Area Network address...your one address from the ISP. This is your access or gateway to the Internet through the ISP's network. Unless you're a business owner or have a complex home lab setup, odds are you only have and pay for one IP address and not a block of addresses.

Then the router creates and hosts a LAN, or Local Area Network. Uses DHCP, Dynamic Host Control Protocol to send out IP addresses so that devices can access your LAN and thus the Internet. The router performs NAT, or Network Address Translation, because they have a LAN address but not a WAN address.

So there is a mask request where packets are flagged for each LAN address so that you can have sessions for things like streaming, email, Internet, VoIP, etc. for each device in your LAN. This is a critical part when on IPv4 since all the public IPv4 addresses have been used up...there's merely not enough for each of your home devices to have its own WAN IP address and you wouldn't want that unless each device had a good quality firewall filtering system in-place...it'd be akin to leaving all your doors and windows on your house open, Main St. pulling up to your front door, and all your cars and private things open and unlocked. Anyone could walk in, dig in or take whenever they wanted without any effort aside from knowing your address(es). No bueno.

I won't go into how various firewall systems work, port forward, etc... I am sure you can look those up or already have a grasp on them..but I want to ensure after the last page and a half of conversation taking a different leg from where I thought it was going, I was concerned that I'm over-assuming your knowledge of network devices and again just want to make sure that you understand how a router works and why you require one on your network so it's not a question of if you should get one, but which one should you get and why (which has been explained several times in this thread by me already ;) ).

Ultimately, I just want to make sure you have a handle on that concept so that you know how important having a router is to a network, in your case a home network. Each device I've mentioned can serve a purpose in the overall goal of your home network, it's quality, stability, security and reliability. Helping educate you to make an informed decision so you're not looking at $20 D-Links thinking they're comparable to a $80 Edgerouter Lite3 or $150 Asus, but knowing what to look for and get into so that you're doing a better investment into your home network for something that will last and keep you and your devices going for years to come. :toast:


+1

A router acts like a hardware firewall, If you don't have one your network is unsecured, If you have a gateway (Modem with router built in) then you don't need a secondary Router, unless if you intend on upgrading the wifi capabilities then that Gateway could be used as a secondary router or can be used as a pass through with the wifi off etc. Depending on what kind of environment where you will have a switch you might need active cooling for it- definitely true if in an Attic- thus keeping fans dust free.
 

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Well any switch can do a basic switch's job, but depending on speed, reliability, and feature set that you need that's where things change.

The reason I posted the link is because you seemed to be questioning needing a router and just using a switch instead, which makes no sense if you do understand networking in that article I linked. Not a jab against you, but just trying to confirm what you do know vs. what you're saying in this thread.

Now you had mentioned earlier that if you could just use it like this: Modem > Switch > AP's

And frankly that tells me you don't necessarily understand the importance of having a router in and managing your network, and I want to make sure that it is very clear why you need and should have a good one. This shouldn't be a question, it should be known. And if I can help educate you to know this, I sure as hell well make it happen! :)

Understanding how a basically router works, for a firewall and gateway, it gets the 1 IP address from your ISP. That is your WAN, Wide Area Network address...your one address from the ISP. This is your access or gateway to the Internet through the ISP's network. Unless you're a business owner or have a complex home lab setup, odds are you only have and pay for one IP address and not a block of addresses.

Then the router creates and hosts a LAN, or Local Area Network. Uses DHCP, Dynamic Host Control Protocol to send out IP addresses so that devices can access your LAN and thus the Internet. The router performs NAT, or Network Address Translation, because they have a LAN address but not a WAN address.

So there is a mask request where packets are flagged for each LAN address so that you can have sessions for things like streaming, email, Internet, VoIP, etc. for each device in your LAN. This is a critical part when on IPv4 since all the public IPv4 addresses have been used up...there's merely not enough for each of your home devices to have its own WAN IP address and you wouldn't want that unless each device had a good quality firewall filtering system in-place...it'd be akin to leaving all your doors and windows on your house open, Main St. pulling up to your front door, and all your cars and private things open and unlocked. Anyone could walk in, dig in or take whenever they wanted without any effort aside from knowing your address(es). No bueno.

I won't go into how various firewall systems work, port forward, etc... I am sure you can look those up or already have a grasp on them..but I want to ensure after the last page and a half of conversation taking a different leg from where I thought it was going, I was concerned that I'm over-assuming your knowledge of network devices and again just want to make sure that you understand how a router works and why you require one on your network so it's not a question of if you should get one, but which one should you get and why (which has been explained several times in this thread by me already ;) ).

Ultimately, I just want to make sure you have a handle on that concept so that you know how important having a router is to a network, in your case a home network. Each device I've mentioned can serve a purpose in the overall goal of your home network, it's quality, stability, security and reliability. Helping educate you to make an informed decision so you're not looking at $20 D-Links thinking they're comparable to a $80 Edgerouter Lite3 or $150 Asus, but knowing what to look for and get into so that you're doing a better investment into your home network for something that will last and keep you and your devices going for years to come. :toast:
Man you know I gotta be pesky :roll:

I'm no network expert but I have a good understanding

Thanks though for all the information. It had really be helpful in my lasting quest.

So as of now

I bought the

ProSafe
Unifi AP (N Version)
AC68

Now i'm just shopping around for some patches cables, bulk cat wire to run through the walls, and Punchdown wall adapters and plates.

Also got a 24Port wall mount patch panel that can also be rack mounted.
 

Kursah

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:toast:

That's a solid SoHo solution!

I get cables off of Amazon usually, or a local supplier depending on who's cheapest.

Good that you got a patch panel, that's going to make life nice. Label them, label the wall plates to match, create a map and spreadsheet to document locations. If you ever have issues, your diag time is cut down substantially. :D

Make sure you check out the instructions to turn that TMobil AC1900 to an Asus AC68U, and I'll be glad to help!

Now there's a lot in there, but don't let it get you nervous.

https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=73690012&postcount=3895

I'll detail what I did, and @Cybrnook2002 can help here too.

  1. Downloaded TMobil 376.1703 firmware, downloaded Asus 376.3626 (allows for larger ROMs after you flash the Asus CFE), and Tomato 124ARM firmware (restore mode flash after applying Asus CFE), downloaded RT-AC68U CFE 1.0.2.0 (recommended version), downloaded the CFE.exe, MTD-WRITE v2.
  2. I ran into a few things with mine that didn't quite match the instructions...mostly the initial instructions as different firmware versions from TMobil have different methods for getting into the recovery mode. I had to hold the WPS button during power on, the power LED flashed fast, keep it held while trying to access 192.168.29.1 (Tmobil default IP, set my PC static to 192.168.29.100), kept refreshing until I was at the recovery page to upload the correct firmware.
  3. Flashed the TMobil 376.1703 firmware, signed in using defaults (admin/password iirc) to enable SSH and Telnet (I prefer to use Putty and SSH to connect) to the device, rebooted and gained access.
  4. Followed directions, except used SSH in Putty to connect to 192.168.29.1, used commands to download current CFE. Copied over MAC ID's to Asus 1.0.2.0 CFE. I used the Automatic CFE instructions with the user-created application...super super simple. Thought the manual method is pretty easy to do too.
  5. Flashed the CFE bootloader using Putty. I did have a spare USB flash drive I used to plug into the router. Worked like a charm...I used simple names to keep the commands easy to remember. Where the instructions for this process say open DOS prompt and use Telnet, I use Putty and SSH.
  6. Reset NVRAM using Putty. Rebooted.
  7. Flashed Tomato firmware, this is because I ran into an issue where I could not flash any other firmware from GUI or recovery but this one, this is a common issue doing this method, but installing this Tomato firmware allows you to flash the Asus firmware successfully and it's a quick step...so I did the flash. Rebooted.
  8. Flashed Asus firmware that sets the flags to allow for larger firmware sizes. Change IP address to DHCP or 192.168.1.100 (or anything not 1.1) Rebooted.
  9. Flashed most recent Merlin firmware.
It's really not bad, but will give you some good experience and for saving $100 is absolutely worth it! :D

I spent more time trying to get into restore mode than doing all of those steps combined...but after scouring the half dozen ways to get into restore mode onto these devices, the version I suggested worked for me. Now when I flashed the older TMobil firmware, that changed and holding the reset button and powering up, until a slow blink power LED started and you were in recovery mode.

Keep in mind going to Asus the IP will change to 192.168.1.1 so you'll need to change your LAN settings to reflect that or just set to use DHCP again.
 
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:toast:

That's a solid SoHo solution!

I get cables off of Amazon usually, or a local supplier depending on who's cheapest.

Good that you got a patch panel, that's going to make life nice. Label them, label the wall plates to match, create a map and spreadsheet to document locations. If you ever have issues, your diag time is cut down substantially. :D

Make sure you check out the instructions to turn that TMobil AC1900 to an Asus AC68U, and I'll be glad to help!

Now there's a lot in there, but don't let it get you nervous.

https://slickdeals.net/forums/showpost.php?p=73690012&postcount=3895

I'll detail what I did, and @Cybrnook2002 can help here too.

  1. Downloaded TMobil 376.1703 firmware, downloaded Asus 376.3626 (allows for larger ROMs after you flash the Asus CFE), and Tomato 124ARM firmware (restore mode flash after applying Asus CFE), downloaded RT-AC68U CFE 1.0.2.0 (recommended version), downloaded the CFE.exe, MTD-WRITE v2.
  2. I ran into a few things with mine that didn't quite match the instructions...mostly the initial instructions as different firmware versions from TMobil have different methods for getting into the recovery mode. I had to hold the WPS button during power on, the power LED flashed fast, keep it held while trying to access 192.168.29.1 (Tmobil default IP, set my PC static to 192.168.29.100), kept refreshing until I was at the recovery page to upload the correct firmware.
  3. Flashed the TMobil 376.1703 firmware, signed in using defaults (admin/password iirc) to enable SSH and Telnet (I prefer to use Putty and SSH to connect) to the device, rebooted and gained access.
  4. Followed directions, except used SSH in Putty to connect to 192.168.29.1, used commands to download current CFE. Copied over MAC ID's to Asus 1.0.2.0 CFE. I used the Automatic CFE instructions with the user-created application...super super simple. Thought the manual method is pretty easy to do too.
  5. Flashed the CFE bootloader using Putty. I did have a spare USB flash drive I used to plug into the router. Worked like a charm...I used simple names to keep the commands easy to remember. Where the instructions for this process say open DOS prompt and use Telnet, I use Putty and SSH.
  6. Reset NVRAM using Putty. Rebooted.
  7. Flashed Tomato firmware, this is because I ran into an issue where I could not flash any other firmware from GUI or recovery but this one, this is a common issue doing this method, but installing this Tomato firmware allows you to flash the Asus firmware successfully and it's a quick step...so I did the flash. Rebooted.
  8. Flashed Asus firmware that sets the flags to allow for larger firmware sizes. Change IP address to DHCP or 192.168.1.100 (or anything not 1.1) Rebooted.
  9. Flashed most recent Merlin firmware.
It's really not bad, but will give you some good experience and for saving $100 is absolutely worth it! :D

I spent more time trying to get into restore mode than doing all of those steps combined...but after scouring the half dozen ways to get into restore mode onto these devices, the version I suggested worked for me. Now when I flashed the older TMobil firmware, that changed and holding the reset button and powering up, until a slow blink power LED started and you were in recovery mode.

Keep in mind going to Asus the IP will change to 192.168.1.1 so you'll need to change your LAN settings to reflect that or just set to use DHCP again.

Yep.

Just don't overwhelm yourself with the details, it is a pretty easy process. You should be done in about 30 minutes.

The basics:
-downgrade firmware
-enable ssh
-dump cfe
-extract values and save in new cfe (1020 or 1021 will work. Not sure why 1021 was not recommended, it works fine fyi)
-upload new 1020/1021 cfe to your router os (I used winSCP)
-flash cfe
-reboot into recovery webserver (or use asus restoration utility) to flash new firmware. I recommend Johns fork http://www.snbforums.com/threads/fork-asuswrt-merlin-374-43-lts-releases-v20e9-v22b6.18914/
-power off, then while holding the WPS button power on the router holding wps for about 15 seconds (until led starts flashing), then let go to clean nvram. It will reboot, then your done.
 

Kursah

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Yep.

Just don't overwhelm yourself with the details, it is a pretty easy process. You should be done in about 30 minutes.
...


Did you not have to upload the 376.3626 AsusWRT firmware that allows for larger ROMs to be installed?

That was another trouble spot, uploading any firmware but Tomato after flashing CFEs caused all firmware uploads to fail in GUI and restore mode. Flashing Tomato, then Asus, then Merlin worked like a charm tho! Hopefully your simplified steps gets the OP there.

I'm going to read up on John's fork, I've heard of folks using it more and more...I really hadn't bothered to look into it as much since I've been happy with MerlinWRT as-is. But anything that can improve stability, performance and security is worth a look in my book!

:toast:
 
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Now i'm just shopping around for some patches cables, bulk cat wire to run through the walls, and Punchdown wall adapters and plates.

Also got a 24Port wall mount patch panel that can also be rack mounted.

monoprice.com is my preferred choice, though I did get a fluke punchdown tool since I'll be doing 80+ in just my house.
 

Kursah

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Fluke's punchdown tools are solid. I have the D814, and I've used it on 1,000's of punches.
 
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Did you not have to upload the 376.3626 AsusWRT firmware that allows for larger ROMs to be installed?

That was another trouble spot, uploading any firmware but Tomato after flashing CFEs caused all firmware uploads to fail in GUI and restore mode. Flashing Tomato, then Asus, then Merlin worked like a charm tho! Hopefully your simplified steps gets the OP there.

I'm going to read up on John's fork, I've heard of folks using it more and more...I really hadn't bothered to look into it as much since I've been happy with MerlinWRT as-is. But anything that can improve stability, performance and security is worth a look in my book!

:toast:
Nope, I went straight to Johns latest build. For one, that was my target release, and second, his build will expand the partition just the same :)

It's rock solid, he does offer QoS, and he backports a lot of Merlins changes (like the recent graphs), as well as security fixes.
 
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