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TRUE Copper cooler availability and replacement

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Hi All,

I still remember this cooler.



I wanted to ask you If I can find it online, can I find AM4 brackets for it? I went to the product website and it wasn't online....

If not, what's the best replacement for it? Fully in Copper like this old warrior.
 
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eidairaman1

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Definitely tr, i think tt has some full copper units too.
 
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Do you have the true copper? It is still a good cooler if you place good fans on it. It I'd already surpassed by modern CPU coolers now with lighter aluminium fins. The best cooler of the top of my head is the nh d15s. Few cooler beat this without resorting to more fans or faster fans.
 
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Do you have the true copper? It is still a good cooler if you place good fans on it. It I'd already surpassed by modern CPU coolers now with lighter aluminium fins. The best cooler of the top of my head is the nh d15s. Few cooler beat this without resorting to more fans or faster fans.

Thank you so much for the info, NHD15 is a monster indeed, wish they made a copper edition, would have been heavy but hell of a performer.
 

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My cooler is in the specs, it took my cpu to 5.0GHz, I will be taking the secondary fan off because it's not needed
 
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Thank you so much for the info, NHD15 is a monster indeed, wish they made a copper edition, would have been heavy but hell of a performer.

Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT is also an epic cooler, check it out!
 

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Do you think this cooler is a good buy now? or should I aim for something else? CPU is a Ryzen 7 1700.
It looks exactly like my old ThermalRight Ultra 120, but fully made out of copper.
My old heatsink could handle a Xeon X5650 overclocked to 4.7GHz under 80C, so this one must be even better.

The only thing you really should consider is weight. Thermalright True Copper weights 1900g (more than 4lb), which may cause some serious issues from simple bending to microfractures in the motherboard.
Remember, back in a day motherboards (or electronics in general) were made from thicker and sturdier PCB material, and had thicker copper layers inside comparing to modern day boards.
I'm not exaggerating: 2Kg, especially in vertical case, can really hurt a motherboard... badly...
Even a monstrous Noctua NH-D15 weights only half as much (980g).

Regarding R7 1700: It's a 65W CPU. There is really no need to buy a monster cooler for it. Even a box HSF can adequately cool it with an acceptable level of noise.
And if you simply want something cool, that's made out of copper (for modding project, or whatever), then you should look for CNPS9500-cu and make a bracket for it (or buy a TR kit mentioned earlier, and drill a big hole in the middle).
 
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I like those fully copper coolers, but you shouldn't touch the flat surfaces or your fingerprints will stay on it.
Even better, wear some fabric gloves when taking out of the packaging and handling it.
 
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I loved Le Grand Macho cooler!! looks neat!! I think copper still have the upper hand as a thermal material for cooling, I will consider this one, I am aiming to make a horizontal ITX system for Ryzen 1700 + a decent ITX mobo - hopefully from Gigabyte!!! - so the cooler is safe to act I guess.
 
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I loved Le Grand Macho cooler!! looks neat!! I think copper still have the upper hand as a thermal material for cooling, I will consider this one, I am aiming to make a horizontal ITX system for Ryzen 1700 + a decent ITX mobo - hopefully from Gigabyte!!! - so the cooler is safe to act I guess.

I'll get a Le Grand Macho RT for my Ryzen build. I'm confident that it outperforms the Thermalright True Copper. ;)
 

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I loved Le Grand Macho cooler!! looks neat!! I think copper still have the upper hand as a thermal material for cooling, I will consider this one, I am aiming to make a horizontal ITX system for Ryzen 1700 + a decent ITX mobo - hopefully from Gigabyte!!! - so the cooler is safe to act I guess.

I still think it's a crazy overkill, especially for an ITX system and no plans for overclocking (deduced from your plans on using Gigabyte AB350N). Also, keep in mind that this is a very rare heatsink, e.g. True Copper is near impossible to find, and a copper 1366 Extreme is factually impossible to find (~1000 released worldwide, and it was almost 9 years ago). Just get an NH L9x65 SE AM4 or any other decent AM4 cooling solution, and don't over-complicate things for yourself.

BTW, AB350N Gaming WiFi is probably on an undetermined hold. It was announced in march, and was due to release in mid-april, but almost a month later it is still not on sale and not even listed on GB website. I guess you'll be better off going with Biostar X370GTN.
 
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1.9Kg that is going to put some stress on motherboard/Mounts.
 
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Your CPU is rated for 65W TDP, so you don't need anything extraordinary to keep that CPU cool. Look for Be Quiet Shadow Rock Slim, Cryorig H7, Cryorig H5 Universal, Arctic Freezer 33 or similar coolers which leave enough clearance for all RAM slots. After the purchase, if you didn't receive an AM4 kit - contact manufacturers, provide some adequate evidence of purchase and you'll get it for free.

I own Be Quiet Shadow Rock Slim which is an outstanding cooler and I would absolutely recommend it, but it all depends how much room you have in your case since this cooler is 161 mm tall.
a2_021915.jpg
 
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I test all copper hestsink a few days ago. I solder the IHS directly to an all copper heatsink eliminating thermal paste/compound. This was done by adding solder paste on both IHS & heatsink then soldering it under high pressure. Early indications shows a 1C improvement over liquid metal paste. (experimental project)
 
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I test all copper hestsink a few days ago. I solder the IHS directly to an all copper heatsink eliminating thermal paste/compound. This was done by adding solder paste on both IHS & heatsink then soldering it under high pressure. Early indications shows a 1C improvement over liquid metal paste. (experimental project)
Solder paste is not the best way to go, because you will get some flux residue and consequential bubbles between heatsink and heatspreader.
If I went in "total overkill" experimental mode, I would've cleaned the contact surface with orthophosphatic acid, soldered a few blobs on both surfaces, and then pressure-heated both to make them weld together.
But anyway, a nice educational experiment :toast:
 
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Solder paste is not the best way to go, because you will get some flux residue and consequential bubbles between heatsink and heatspreader.
If I went in "total overkill" experimental mode, I would've cleaned the contact surface with orthophosphatic acid, soldered a few blobs on both surfaces, and then pressure-heated both to make them weld together.
But anyway, a nice educational experiment :toast:

Both surfaces were lapped before soldering, then scrubbed. The fact is there is a performance increase. When soldering is complete, there is a complete seal around the IHS. I am so impressed with it, I have done the same with Noctua NH-C14S (still testing), but is showing even further improvement over liquid metal compound. 2C-3C improvement.

Soldering done on this heatsink with even more pressure. This was done in-order to make the contact between IHS & Heatsink as thin as possible.

IHS must be lapped down to the copper including "the side of the IHS" so that solder can flow & seal the edges

Note: Soldering is done across the whole surface of the IHS allowing the solder to flow up the side. There is also perfect alignment in the centre of the heatsink/IHS.
 
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