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Good Low-Mid Budget Gigabyte Motherboards?

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Currently building my first custom PC via Ironside, so I'm kind of new to all these PC specs, since I've had a TOSHIBA laptop for the last 5 years, although I've been reading up on this stuff for a couple weeks. My whole setup is getting a bit expensive with my actual PC, monitor, keyboard and mouse included, so I want to go for a good, low to mid budget motherboard offered by Gigabyte via Ironside.

Thinking of motherboards such as; GA-H110M-A, GA-B250M-DS3H or GA-Z270-P Crossfire. Read mixed reviews for the first 2, yet to read up on the crossfire. Any input?

BTW:
Some other specs for my future PC (please don't make fun of me) are
Intel I5-7400. 3.0 GHZ
Corsair Vengeance White LED 8GB at 3000 MHZ
2TB storage
Geforce GTX 1060 3GB Graphics Card
EVGA 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Power supply
For those who are curious, my keyboard is going to be a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 with a Razer mouse, most likely a Mamba or Deathadder. Lighting theme is green.

Thanks,
CanadianGamer
 

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Welcome to TPU! I assume your goal is to build a gaming system? The crossfire board does not make sense for you because you have selected a Nvidia GPU. Nvidia GPU's use SLI, AMD GPU's use crossfire.
There used to be a simple answer to your question: "Just get one that has UD3 in the name."
"Z" motherboards are going to have the most features and allow OC'ing
"H110" motherboards are entry level and therefore have the fewest features.
"B" motherboards are most likely where you want to buy, just get one with a gaming orientation.
What you've listed is a very low powered system, and a 450 watt PSU will do just fine.
If there isn't that much of a difference in price between the 3 GB and 6 GB GTX 1060's, get the 6 GB version. Mining has inflated the prices of GPU's at this time.
Don't buy a cheap case. They always cost you more in the long run. I really like the Define C cases. The Define C will house mothboards up to ATX, and the Define Mini C will house uATX and mITX motherboards. The size of the motherboard really doesn't matter these days, but I would recommend that you stay away from mITX for your first build.
As for storage, I really like the Seagate FireCuda 3.5" drives with their long warranty.

Intel will be announcing their new 8th generation CPU's on Monday. I would wait to see what they have in store and whether it it would be better to buy the new platform or maybe go with a budget build on the older platform. Apparently, only "Z" boards will be available for the rest of this year for the new platform, i.e. Z370.
 
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Benchmark Scores Turns on on the first try! Usually.
Since that is a non K processor I'd go with the GA-B250M-DS3H. And you mentioned money is a bit of a concern so the B mobo is probably somewhat cheaper than the Z. If you don't plan to overclock (in the future, with different processor) I see no reason to go for the Z at all.
 
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The crossfire board does not make sense for you because you have selected a Nvidia GPU. Nvidia GPU's use SLI, AMD GPU's use crossfire.

I thought it doesn't matter, my motherboard does both AMD Crossfire or Nvidia SLI?....
 
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I thought it doesn't matter, my motherboard does both AMD Crossfire or Nvidia SLI?....
Short answer, motherboards can support either or both. Those that support both are normally of the more expensive variety.
 
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Thanks guys! You really helped me out. I will be sure to take your advice.

For a quick review, here are my supposed final specs:
Intel Core I5-7400 3.0 GHZ
Standard Intel Heatsink CPU Cooling or a Hyper 212
B-250M motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Memory @ 3000 MHZ
2TB Hard Drive
Geforce GTX 1060 6GB
EVGA 500 Watt Plus
Windows 10

Thoughts/suggestions?
And yes, I know it is bad.
 
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Benchmark Scores Turns on on the first try! Usually.
For a quick review, here are my supposed final specs:
Intel Core I5-7400 3.0 GHZ
Standard Intel Heatsink CPU Cooling or a Hyper 212
B-250M motherboard
Corsair Vengeance 8GB Memory @ 3000 MHZ
2TB Hard Drive
Geforce GTX 1060 6GB
EVGA 500 Watt Plus
Windows 10

Thoughts/suggestions?
And yes, I know it is bad.
I see nothing wrong, tho I would add an SSD if you could, it sure will add to the overall experience.
 
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I would recommend getting 16 gigs of RAM if you budget allows instead of just 8 (I have started to notice a lot more RAM usage in every system I build nowadays)

I thought it doesn't matter, my motherboard does both AMD Crossfire or Nvidia SLI?....
IT DOES MATTER, a while back I sli'd a pair of 960s on a crossfire supported board and ended up blowing up a 4790k (expensive mistake on my part)
 

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For those who are curious, my keyboard is going to be a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 with a Razer mouse, most likely a Mamba or Deathadder. Lighting theme is green.

Regarding the motherboard question: go with B250. If you are not planning on extensive upgrades, overclocking, or multi-GPU in the future, you won't need anything higher than that. I've got an MSI B150 board last year, and so far I'm more than happy (plus it's got KabyLake support).

RAM: Why only 8GB DDR4-3000 w/ LEDs? And is it a 2x4GB Kit (couldn't find single-stick listings for this model)? For $20 (don't know how much it is in CAD) more you can get a 16GB(2x8) set of G.Skill Ripjaws. In the grand scheme of things you'll benefit more from an extra 8GB of RAM, rather than marginal performance advantage from faster but smaller kit.
PSU: you don't need 600W for this rig. Instead of spending $50 on 600W bronze you should spend $60 on a 400-500W 80+ Gold PSU. Or if you are broke but want to spend your money right, drop it to EVGA 450B or 500B and throw the difference towards a small downpayment for GTX1060 6GB upgrade.
 
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not sure meep is right about the mobo but i agree on the ram. 6gb vram and 8gb of system ram is not a good mix.
 
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I see nothing wrong, tho I would add an SSD if you could, it sure will add to the overall experience.
About the only benefit of a (small because of the budget) SSD is fast boots. IMHO, monies can be better spent elsewhere, although it sure is nice to run programs like Office off of one.
 
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Benchmark Scores Turns on on the first try! Usually.
About the only benefit of a (small because of the budget) SSD is fast boots. IMHO, monies can be better spent elsewhere, although it sure is nice to run programs like Office off of one.
Yea, it was more of a IF possible (bigger size that is), especially these days SSDs are waay too expensive.
 
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Lol, sorry I'm showering you guys with questions but I'm sure you were the same when you got your first PC. I want to be really educated on my choices. Coming back to graphics, a GTX 1060 3GB is enough, or would you recommend 6GB? Is the performance and graphics difference that much that I should spend the extra 70 bucks?
 
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Benchmark Scores Turns on on the first try! Usually.
From what I've seen there is around a 10% perf difference between them, but the bigger difference is the vRAM, the 6GB will last a bit longer. So, if you don't plan to change the card for a while go for the 6GB, if you see yourself changing it after some time then the 3GB will do fine.
 
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W1zzard's reviews showed about a 6% difference between them. Normally I would say to buy the cheaper one, but I think the 6GB version will last a bit longer. There is a difference in the number of shaders between them
 
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I'd again suggest going with 16GB of RAM. I constantly find my laptop running over the 8GB of RAM into the SWAP, especially when I play games as I have 2-3 GB of chrome tabs open at any one point.

Are you building the rig yourself or having them build it for you? If you are trying to save money there's not really any reason not to learn to build yourself and save some costs on the assembly, not to mention the better selection of parts.
 
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Normally I would say to buy the cheaper one, but I think the 6GB version will last a bit longer.

That's what I'm thinking. Guess I'm going to get a 6GB one. Anyways, here is a full list of my specs so far, which may change. It's a fairly starter one but the manufacturer claims that the PC can run games like GTA V, Player's Battlegrounds, etc.
PC Case: Ironside Fiend Case White, RGB. Full metal case with Tempered Glass. It's my profile pic (or will be).
Internal Lighting: RGB LED Strip.
Wiring: Individually Sleeved Cables with the color of Acidic Green
Processor: Intel Core I5-7400 w/ 3.4 GHZ (Quad Core) (I may upgrade to a better one in the i5 or possibly i7 class in the coming months after my PC purchase.
CPU Cooling: Hyper 212 (budget $40 fan which is said to be pretty good)
Motherboard: B250 Chipset Motherboard (someone please put input on this. The motherboard is my main concern)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance White LED 16GB (2x8GB) OR 8GB (1x8GB) I don't know which one to choose and those are my only options from the PC Manafacturer. I know the 1x8s are not as good as 2x4s but I might ship in 2x4s instead if y'all think 1x8s are that bad.
Hard Drive: 2TB, so far no secondary, but I'll probably get myself a 1TB secondary.
Graphics Card: GTX 1060 6GB
Power Supply: EVGA 500 Watt 80 Plus
OS: Windows 10 (I can get Pro but is it really worth the extra 50 bucks?)
Networking: Thinking of getting wireless AC but I think I'll stay with onboard ethernet.

Keyboard: Coolmaster Devastator II (membrane starter keyboard. I really like membranes, and this one is a starter, so for a someone like me it'll be good. I do have a mechanical keyboard already in my house if the Devastator does not show sufficient results.)
Mouse: I already have a Deathadder, but I will try the Coolmaster Mouse that comes with the Devastator II + Mouse combo. Might seem like a downgrade but I like both handed orientations better for some reason.
Mousepad: small walmart mousepad lol
Headset: Walmart Blackweb headset for 40 bucks lol
Monitor: I prefer smaller monitors so I might get an Asus 19.5 or 21.5 inch. I've heard it's wobbly though, so idk. I can try out a larger one though.

Estimated Price: About 1.4 - 1.5k in the end. I might add to it though.

thoughts, insults, suggestions?


I'd again suggest going with 16GB of RAM. I constantly find my laptop running over the 8GB of RAM into the SWAP, especially when I play games as I have 2-3 GB of chrome tabs open at any one point.

Are you building the rig yourself or having them build it for you? If you are trying to save money there's not really any reason not to learn to build yourself and save some costs on the assembly, not to mention the better selection of parts.

I'm having Ironside make it as I would really like the Fiend case. I don't think they offer sole cases. I'm extremely new to computers and my 5 year old laptop is breaking down badly, so I want to get this purchased in about a month or so. I can probably do some basic part replacements in the future but a whole build, not for a while. As I said earlier, I might plan to ship in some parts instead of buying them from Ironside though.

Monitor: I prefer smaller monitors so I might get an Asus 19.5 or 21.5 inch. I've heard it's wobbly though, so idk. I can try out a larger one though.
Huge mistake I meant acer!
 
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ASUS > acer

id look at a decent lg or benq as well
 
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ASUS > acer

id look at a decent lg or benq as well

If you were talking about laptops then yes, Asus > Acer... but monitors? Hell no. Same shit different name tag, but Asus carries a premium on the name tag that triples when its also got ROG on it.
 
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I like my ASUS monitors.
 
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IT DOES MATTER, a while back I sli'd a pair of 960s on a crossfire supported board and ended up blowing up a 4790k (expensive mistake on my part)

How did that happen and why ? Makes no sense , I am curious.
 
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How did that happen and why ? Makes no sense , I am curious.
Absolutely no clue on how or why it happened, probably to do with the way the pci socket was wired, but as a rule of thumb now I only do this type of thing if the board explicitly states it.
 
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Power Supply Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 750W / Powerbrick
Mouse Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Laser wireless / Logitech M330 wireless
Keyboard RAPOO E9270P Black 5GHz wireless / HP backlit
Software Windows 11 / Windows 10
Benchmark Scores Cinebench R23 (Single Core) 1936 @ stock Cinebench R23 (Multi Core) 23006 @ stock
Absolutely no clue on how or why it happened, probably to do with the way the pci socket was wired, but as a rule of thumb now I only do this type of thing if the board explicitly states it.

Next time better buy a board like mine that does both Xfire and SLI....;)
Then it doesn't matter what cards you upgrade to.
 
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