6900XT Liquid Devil Issues (Maybe?)

[damric]

Yeah I think you should buy something like this 90 degree flow sensor and put it where you have that bad bend.

Flow Meter Indicator G1/4 Threaded 5 Impeller for PC Computer Water Cooling | eBay

People always bought together with.

ebay.to

 

[jaggerwild]

Keep moving it, have to be careful as you want to move it as much as you can but not cause a leak. I rotate mine in every direction so as to remove as much as possible.... you'll know when the rez. Shows you need to add more liquid.

 

[kiddagoat]

I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.

 

[eidairaman1]

I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.

Make sure to ddu before installing the new card.

 

[formula383]

I have had a few EK blocks that are not a true surface and actually dont even make contact on parts of the die. I guess if you want you can take it apart to see, or just exchange it is probably the better option.

a few things you can do for testing. Does the water get warm (ie touch the tubes before/after the gpu and see if you can feel any heat)? Do the temps fall back to idle right after the load is gone? This will tell you if the loop is flowing properly or not. My guess is the block has been cut too deep with a dull end mill to save money. tooling is expensive so they are probably pushing the limits of the tool to try and save a buck.

PS: you might be able to get a replacement block from Power Color. i really dont know if they will do that or not, my guess is EK will not send you a cold plate for free because you did not buy it from them. EK did send me new cold plates for my gpu blocks that were bad at no charge. (altho it did take a few creative emails to get it taken care of) They also did not require me to ship back the old ones. (they would have required this if the whole block was shipped out to me)

 

[quanash]

I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.

What happened to the GPU after the 90 degree upgrade to the loop? Did the temps decreased as well? If so what were the values?

BTW, when you disassemble the loop and take our the GPU out, try to check the block installation. Try to squeeze the card with 2 fingers ( each hand ) with mild pressure from GPU block and backplate and try to feel if there is any movement. If there is, it means the block is loose. If not problem is elsewhere. This is the best way to check the fitment of the block without voiding the warranty.

 

[formula383]

PSA: in the USA you cannot void your warranty by removing the cooler. *(they might fight you on this, but the law states you may service the card.) Go watch some of gamers nexus tear down video's they talk about it all the time.

Note i am not saying you should tear your gpu apart since it is new i would just get it replaced. As removing the sticker could cause delays and or issues later.

 

[kiddagoat]

I have had a few EK blocks that are not a true surface and actually dont even make contact on parts of the die. I guess if you want you can take it apart to see, or just exchange it is probably the better option.

a few things you can do for testing. Does the water get warm (ie touch the tubes before/after the gpu and see if you can feel any heat)? Do the temps fall back to idle right after the load is gone? This will tell you if the loop is flowing properly or not. My guess is the block has been cut too deep with a dull end mill to save money. tooling is expensive so they are probably pushing the limits of the tool to try and save a buck.

PS: you might be able to get a replacement block from Power Color. i really dont know if they will do that or not, my guess is EK will not send you a cold plate for free because you did not buy it from them. EK did send me new cold plates for my gpu blocks that were bad at no charge. (altho it did take a few creative emails to get it taken care of) They also did not require me to ship back the old ones. (they would have required this if the whole block was shipped out to me)

I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle.

What happened to the GPU after the 90 degree upgrade to the loop? Did the temps decreased as well? If so what were the values?

BTW, when you disassemble the loop and take our the GPU out, try to check the block installation. Try to squeeze the card with 2 fingers ( each hand ) with mild pressure from GPU block and backplate and try to feel if there is any movement. If there is, it means the block is loose. If not problem is elsewhere. This is the best way to check the fitment of the block without voiding the warranty.

The flow did improve as the CPU dropped back to around 60C under load as it did before I added the 6900XT.

The temperatures on the 6900XT were marginally better, getting to 81C and the hot spot hitting 110C.

The card is solid. No movement when squeezing the card.

 

[formula383]

"I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle."

This would indicate bad contact to the die, either from not enough mounting pressure or the cooler is not true. either way it would seem the die is not making contact with your card. at least from what i can tell. would be interesting to see why, but if you can get it replaced at the store thats probably the best way. good luck!

 

[eidairaman1]

"I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle."

This would indicate bad contact to the die, either from not enough mounting pressure or the cooler is not true. either way it would seem the die is not making contact with your card. at least from what i can tell. would be interesting to see why, but if you can get it replaced at the store thats probably the best way. good luck!

He got it from microcenter so easier to exchange then screw with it.

 

[kiddagoat]

While I was in Houston, I got a call from Powercolor. They said if I sent the card into them, it would be about 3 weeks and the person on the phone didn’t know if they would have another card or not.

I spoke to my folks at Microcenter and since I purchased their protection plan on the card, if I took it apart and something wasn’t user serviceable like a warped block, I could still take it back.

When I started on my task, the screws on the back plate were loose. Like they were evenly torqued, but they still had some room for tightening.

When I got to the six on the back for the block itself, those were also not tightened.

When I took the block off I got pictures of it. The block wasn’t making good contact with the die. So I repasted it and replaced some of the pads that weren’t reusable after I took the block off.

After reapplying the thermal paste and pads, I tightened the the block and backplate back down.

Now I don’t go over 50C on the hot spot and the core has gotten to about 39C-40C.

Much much better. Thank you all again for your assistance.

 

[eidairaman1]

While I was in Houston, I got a call from Powercolor. They said if I sent the card into them, it would be about 3 weeks and the person on the phone didn’t know if they would have another card or not.

I spoke to my folks at Microcenter and since I purchased their protection plan on the card, if I took it apart and something wasn’t user serviceable like a warped block, I could still take it back.

When I started on my task, the screws on the back plate were loose. Like they were evenly torqued, but they still had some room for tightening.

When I got to the six on the back for the block itself, those were also not tightened.

When I took the block off I got pictures of it. The block wasn’t making good contact with the die. So I repasted it and replaced some of the pads that weren’t reusable after I took the block off.

After reapplying the thermal paste and pads, I tightened the the block and backplate back down.

Now I don’t go over 50C on the hot spot and the core has gotten to about 39C-40C.

Much much better. Thank you all again for your assistance.

Sounds like you got 1 qc failed card, I would bring this up to powercolor too.