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2700X high temps with ARO M14 cooler

tazztone

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hi
please help me figure out why my temps are so high.
this is my PC airflow (tested with side cover on):
ambient temp is 20°C

ran cinebench R20 and got CPU temp of 87°C ! (Tdie).:
Ryzen 2700X stock with Thermaltake ARO M14 air cooler
see HWinfo stats and Cinebench score (which is too low also) here:
i have reapplied thermal paste (MX-4) to cooler. temps haven't improved.

i have seen others running the included stock AMD cooler getting 75°C or lower temps.
how is this possible? is the Thermaltake ARO M14 maybe faulty ?
 

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Gpu is blocking front panel airflow.
 

tazztone

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Gpu is blocking front panel airflow.
you think this is the reason my temps are shit?
well i am receiving my P500A case soon. will test it in there. but i don't have high hopes since ambient temps inside the current case seem to remain quite stable.
 
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please help me figure out why my temps are so high.
I'd try unplugging that top fan. It seems to be stealing air from your CPU cooler. What is your case model? What are your fan speeds in Cinebench? I can't see that HWinFO screen you mention.

And welcome to TPU forums! :lovetpu:
 

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you mean this is the reason my temps are shit?
well i am receiving my P500A case soon. will test it in there. but i don't have high hopes since ambient temps inside the current case seem to remain quite stable.
Try sitting a fan in the 5.25" bay and see if that helps. Every case I did that with saw massive improvements on core temps.
 

tazztone

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What is your case model?
this is a Corsair Graphite 600T
What are your fan speeds in Cinebench?
you can see it in the charts on the right, as well as on the case picture
200mm: ~800rpm
120mm rear: ~1300rpm
It seems to be stealing air from your CPU cooler.
how can the top fan be "stealing air"? all it can do is draw air from other places of the case, thereby increasing the airflow.

i just cannot believe that the case or airflow is to blame here. when i have seen ppl using the 2700X with stock cooler get 70-75°C max at cinebench.
i applied for warranty of the ARO M14 yesterday. i also read in a russian review that they may have not soldered the heat pipes properly.
 
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I'd try unplugging that top fan. It seems to be stealing air from your CPU cooler.
I agree, that was the first thing I noticed.
 
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SOC voltage is 1.13~ at stock on 2700x?

Cooler mount maybe? Cinebench is only a short period of time, don't see airflow having such a big effect if you boot from cold or even with case open as shown.
 
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I agree, that was the first thing I noticed.
Barely enough to make that big of a difference there. an additional drive bay intake fan would help but finding a bracket for that is a pain.

Does that have a vent underneath the PSU?
 
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how can the top fan be "stealing air"?
OK, the images you posted are now showing properly.
With the side panel in place, your CPU fan will draw most of its air through the mesh 5.25" bays. But some air won't even get there, being "hijacked" by your top fan. Those two fans are in competition for air (simplified drawing):

airflow.jpg


Can't find the specs for that 200mm fan anywhere, but judging by the size alone I'd imagine it draws more air than the TY-147A. Also, your CPU fan is designed for quiet operation, rather than high performance. The ARO M14/Macho is a capable unit, but I wouldn't expect low temperatures with an eight core fully stressed.

Check out this review:

case.jpg


That said, I would test again with the side panel off, and the top fan disconnected. If there's no improvement, re-check cooler mounting.
 
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Flip the top fan around and have it draw in fresh air.
 
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The CPU definitely shouldn't go over 90 C the moment you start the test. Is the cooler making proper contact? Can you touch the cooler base and the heatpipes to verify that they're actually hot? Maybe if you moved the video card to the bottom slot?
 
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That 2700 is known to be very unpredictable as far as temps go. I had a ryzen 7 2700x, (now a Ryzen 7 3700x) and i was able to keep it under control by using a push/pull tower cooler + using an old Antec spot fan kept at 5K RPM aimed towards the mobo & kept on all times comp was running. I just set it to stay that way in bios. I would agree that you have no flow to the GPU or mobo really. So i would get an ankonacore push/pull cooler (like 35.00 on amazon), & a spot fan just mounted anywhere on opposite side of case to aim some airflow to the motherboard itself, which should lower the GPU temps a little by keeping a fan on it.
This is just how i got mine stable, because i kept noticing crazy temp jumps and I do not like to put too much stress on my parts. I would rather buy a card or a gpu that can do 2x's the load, and run it low instead of getting a cheap part that can be overclocked to be almost as good as the other part running only partially. But that's just me. I know sometimes money doesn't allow it, but It's just what I like to do, cause when i am working, I do not need the extra worry of temps on top of my work.
The next grade of processor above the 2700 (3700) acts close to the same way, but I had the cooling system down/corrected since it's install, so it has not got to the temps my 2700x did. but it still has weird jumps that i can't really explain unless it is some background program that kicks in without notice at odd times & I will notice it stays a little above 60 for a while. But the 2700 got to 90 once, and that was enough for me to decide to get rid of the stock cooler and try something else that someone said worked well with the 2700 series.
If you were looking for a way to fix without buying anything else, then i guess this is bad data, but total cost would be like 50.00+ shipping for the 2 things mentioned. They are cheap.
 

tazztone

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looks like that mounting hardware is shitty

2 screws on the right and left of the cooler aren't enough to spread the pressure evenly.

now i installed a Liquid Freezer II 240 and i get 76°C max in cinebench
 

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looks like that mounting hardware is shitty
Honestly, I'm surprised. Thermalright coolers are of very high quality and they are very easy to install. I've been using four Machos (the same as your ARO) - in three different revisions - in my computers, and never had an issue with them. Granted, the Macho uses a slightly different mechanism with a separate mounting plate.

I'm sure you did that, but did you alternate between the screws when driving them? As in, only a couple of turns per screw at a time? Were both screws fully and equally fastened? Other than that, you may have received a faulty HSF indeed.

All in all, I'm glad you sorted out the problem. You're better off using an AIO with your CPU anyway. You wouldn't have been able to bring the temps down to this level with the ARO.
 
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looks like that mounting hardware is shitty

2 screws on the right and left of the cooler aren't enough to spread the pressure evenly.

now i installed a Liquid Freezer II 240 and i get 76°C max in cinebench
4 mounting points is the norm, it's the installation method that screws it up.
That's what happens when you tighten one side at a time, instead of diagonally.
 
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4 mounting points is the norm, it's the installation method that screws it up.
Noctua, Scythe, Zalman, Be quiet, Deepcool, Corsair, Cryorig and ID cooling disagrees, two points is pretty common for tower coolers.
Four points is obviously common when the HS is mounted directly to the board, like the stock Intel HS. Some tower coolers have four points tho, like the CM 212 and older Thermalright models.
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Noctua, Scythe, Zalman, Be quiet, Deepcool, Corsair, Cryorig and ID cooling disagrees, two points is pretty common for tower coolers.
Little bit literal there I take it.
The guy mentioned 4 screws not being enough, my reply was to that.
 
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The guy mentioned 4 screws not being enough, my reply was to that.
I think we read different things into that post.
I thought "2 screws on the right and left" meant 2 screws in total. Left-right didn't really tell me much, as up-down, left-right, and front-back is open to interpretation here as always.
Complaining about 4 screws not being enough sounded unlikely as I don't think I've ever seen more than that.
 

tazztone

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oh i see what went wrong here now. yea i meant 1 screw on the right and 1 on the left of the cooler (orientation when mounted in the case).

like this
1614092755114.png


the patch without contact to the CPU was consistent with what you would expect from the gravitational force of the cooler pulling down. leaving more pressure on the lower half of the CPU and less on the top half
 
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Can I ask what is the max power draw of the CPU?
I assume by reading latest posts its mounting issue but I just curious about max CPU PPT

looks like that mounting hardware is shitty

2 screws on the right and left of the cooler aren't enough to spread the pressure evenly.

now i installed a Liquid Freezer II 240 and i get 76°C max in cinebench
And I think, that this amount of paste is too much. You need a thin layer between the 2 surfaces, just to fill the microscopic gaps. Not to cover the whole surfaces with thick layer.
 

tazztone

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Can I ask what is the max power draw of the CPU?
well according to the sensor "CPU Package power" it's around 140W.

and the amount of paste was fine i am quite sure. I spread a really thin layer (barely enough to cover the entire surface).
 
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well according to the sensor "CPU Package power" it's around 140W.
A more accurate value of the total power consumption is indicated by "CPU PPT". Your video shows 160w in Cinebench R20.
Now that you've got those temps in check, you should be seeing higher maximum clocks with all cores loaded.
 
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