2nd hand MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Sea Hawk EK X waterblock question

[Mathragh]

Hey guys! I wanted to ask your opinion about a card I recently acquired.

The guy I bought it from was using it until he sold it, so i know it's working. The waterblock however seems to be not only be really dirty, but also the nickel started peeling away and there might be some corrosion.

If I can get it clean, and only use it in a loop with only copper or nickel parts, would the state of the waterblock be a problem?

the card:

without stickers/metal:

PCB:

Block after partial cleaning with water, soap and a sponge:

Would value the insights of you guys!

 

[Outback Bronze]

So, is that nickel plated with the copper coming through?

If it is, I'd be inclined to remove all the nickel and sand it back to all copper where all the fluid runs through. Assuming that is the copper coming through underneath.

Because it's starting to feel off it could potentially keep peeling off in the loop over time and start doing funny things to the pump, rads etc.

I see it's another case of people not using the correct coolant.

I've been using car coolant for almost 2 decades now with absolutely not one issue and will continue to use it. It's just too damn good.

You can mix metals, its anti-freeze/boil, lubricates pumps and keeps all your internals looking brand new.

 

[Mathragh]

It is indeed raw copper. And the guy said he only used distilled water, but never once refreshed it.
Would sandblasting get rid of the nickel you reckon?

 

[Outback Bronze]

It is indeed raw copper. And the guy said he only used distilled water, but never once refreshed it.
Would sandblasting get rid of the nickel you reckon?

Yeah possibly. You can't make it worse than it already is.

I'd try sanding it by hand first and see what that accomplishes.

If it starting to get too tedious by hand by all means, crank out the sand blaster and try a small section on the block and see what results you get.

 

[ir_cow]

So, is that nickel plated with the copper coming through?

If it is, I'd be inclined to remove all the nickel and sand it back to all copper where all the fluid runs through. Assuming that is the copper coming through underneath.

Because it's starting to feel off it could potentially keep peeling off in the loop over time and start doing funny things to the pump, rads etc.

I agree. Once it starts to peel off, it will clog up the loop. IDK why EK has such thin coatings....

 

[Mathragh]

Thanks guys! will see how far i can get with sanding. Wonder whether theres also nickel in between the "fins" above the GPU; if so i suppose sandblasting is the only option?

 

[Dr. Dro]

I agree. Once it starts to peel off, it will clog up the loop. IDK why EK has such thin coatings....

Cash money, nickel plating is pretty expensive especially if there's any finish.

Thanks guys! will see how far i can get with sanding. Wonder whether theres also nickel in between the "fins" above the GPU; if so i suppose sandblasting is the only option?

Yes, there is nickel in between the fins, these are nickel plated usually through a submersion electroplating process. If you have a steel mill or similar workshop in your area, you could have the piece chemically treated and a new coating applied. Probably cheaper than a replacement block, but I won't say that it's exactly super cheap - and it definitely will not come out looking mint new/unused, if that's the objective, but it should remove and stop the corrosion if done right. I've had it done to a R9 290X Lightning's heatsink that had corrosion when I first purchased it.

This video shows you how it's usually done

 

[Keullo-e]

Never had to do anything else for waterblocks myself than to brush some little gunk away with an old toothbrush, but I've heard that vinegar is the shit to go with getting rid of crap like in your block.

 

[eidairaman1]

It is indeed raw copper. And the guy said he only used distilled water, but never once refreshed it.
Would sandblasting get rid of the nickel you reckon?

You can cause silicon embedment using sand, not a good idea

 

[maxfly]

A dremel type tool with a polishing, sanding or wire brush head may work the fastest.

 

[Mathragh]

A dremel type tool with a polishing, sanding or wire brush head may work the fastest.

Works wonders for the biggest parts for sure! thanks for the suggestion.

Edit picture:

Also shows a lot of nickel flaking off so it's definitely a good idea to get rid of like @Outback Bronze suggested.

Two things left on my to figure out list:

• How to clean/sand in between the copper nickel plated fins.
• Whether it's worth applying a new nickel layer; I wouldn't mind trying my hand at something like @Dr. Dro suggested with his video but i'm currently unsure about the added cost/reward.

 

[Keullo-e]

Works wonders for the biggest parts for sure! thanks for the suggestion.

Edit picture:
View attachment 298156

Also shows a lot of nickel flaking off so it's definitely a good idea to get rid of like @Outback Bronze suggested.

Two things left on my to figure out list:

• How to clean/sand in between the copper nickel plated fins.
• Whether it's worth applying a new nickel layer; I wouldn't mind trying my hand at something like @Dr. Dro suggested with his video but i'm currently unsure about the added cost/reward.

Post the final results here later. Looks interesting refurb project

 

[maxfly]

Works wonders for the biggest parts for sure! thanks for the suggestion.

Edit picture:
View attachment 298156

• How to clean/sand in between the copper nickel plated fins.

I've no idea where you might find one thin enough but a saw blade just popped in my head for some reason. That or a razor blade, pick pen or utility knife blade ran through on the blunt side might get in there.

 

[Dr. Dro]

Works wonders for the biggest parts for sure! thanks for the suggestion.

Edit picture:
View attachment 298156

Also shows a lot of nickel flaking off so it's definitely a good idea to get rid of like @Outback Bronze suggested.

Two things left on my to figure out list:

• How to clean/sand in between the copper nickel plated fins.
• Whether it's worth applying a new nickel layer; I wouldn't mind trying my hand at something like @Dr. Dro suggested with his video but i'm currently unsure about the added cost/reward.

Sweet! I think you may be able to find find a very thin disc for your dremel that may fit inside the fin stack. As for the cost/reward of replating it, well, the purpose of nickel plating is to keep corrosion at bay. If the copper had been running naked there, it would have certainly been far worse.

I know you won't be committing the same mistake of mixing metals as the previous owner of your graphics card did, but in the interests of longevity, it may very well be worth it. Also, I'm unsure if running the block without the nickel plating as long as your other parts are nickel plated is a good idea, if the migration phenomenon occurs that way or not. Someone else who's more experienced with water cooling may know.

I think you can refurbish this to look as good as new if you put some time into it. Will be closely following, good luck!

 

[Mathragh]

Regarding only having nickel plated parts: I doubt the corsair copper radiator i've got is fully plated on the inside? Not sure if it'll matter that much.

Regardless, I'm probably gonna try my hand at nickel plating if the power supply i've got somewhere still works

I also want to 3d print a less wide version of this part:

Currently the card doesnt actually fit in my case with the side closed since it is somewhere around 5mm too wide

Long term I plan on building my own case but i'm not sure when i'll get around to it.


Before commiting to the the plating and printing I'm probable gonna give the card a quick testrun with just the bare copper in a loop on a teststand so that I'm 100% sure it's actually OK before committing to more effort.

I'm 99% sure the buyer was telling the truth, but it'll be nice to see it running with my own eyes first.

 

[eidairaman1]

A dremel type tool with a polishing, sanding or wire brush head may work the fastest.

Take caution as you can cause uneven surfaces using it

 

[Mathragh]

Take caution as you can cause uneven surfaces using it

Yeah I'm trying my best to avoid too much unevenness. Figured that as long as the gasket surface is even enough I should be mostly fine regarding leak risk. The plexiglass top is basically pristine after cleaning as well.

 

[eidairaman1]

Works wonders for the biggest parts for sure! thanks for the suggestion.

Edit picture:
View attachment 298156

Also shows a lot of nickel flaking off so it's definitely a good idea to get rid of like @Outback Bronze suggested.

Two things left on my to figure out list:

• How to clean/sand in between the copper nickel plated fins.
• Whether it's worth applying a new nickel layer; I wouldn't mind trying my hand at something like @Dr. Dro suggested with his video but i'm currently unsure about the added cost/reward.

Glass media blasting which have no silica in it

 

[Mathragh]

Glass media blasting which have no silica in it

Good call, we have sand blasting station at work. I'll ask what kind they're using.

 

[eidairaman1]

Good call, we have sand blasting station at work. I'll ask what kind they're using.

I do it in landing gear overhaul, just 1 part of my job

 

[Mathragh]

Hello peoples! An update, as there was some interest in the continuation of this project.

After reading your messages I decided I needed to learn a lot more about how to re-add a nickel layer, so i took my time reading up on that.
After a lot of research and pondering, I decided to just contact EK, as there were just too many variables and unknowns regarding how to proceed. They advised me to not put on a new nickel layer on at all, as it apparently had to be done with the exact same process. According to them I would be fine with just the bare copper as long as I cleaned it thouroughly and didn't use aluminium or silver in the loop.

Sooo, I ended up just cleaning it as good as practically possible and make sure to mind my metals.

Cleaning the block further. EK advised a toothbrush for cleaning inbetween the fins:

Mostly corrosion-free block in outside light:

Application of new thermal pads according to manual:

Block assembled:

1st testrun for block leak testing and card functioning (don't mind the mess =D):

Installation:

Regarding the want/need for a 3d printed adapter so the card would fit eventhough it's 5mm too wide:

Apparently without the outer "branding" bracket that goes around the tube connector, it fits with maybe a millimeter spare. Problem solved!


The card runs great; leaving it at the stock TDP (300W) it generally runs at around 1900-2000MHz with a quick and dirty 100MHz Core and 270MHz memory overclock and stays under 60C eventhough it's around 30C here currently.

Edit: Can post some load figures but haven't made some representative screenies so far.


Very happy with this card for just €250,- , and thank you all for the words and advice!

 

[eidairaman1]

I hope that block never springs a leak

 

[Mathragh]

I hope that block never springs a leak

Well, likewise of course!
Any particular reason?