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$60 to burn on cooling - Air? Closed-Loop Water (H50)? Mad Scientist Aqua-Vortex?

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#1
EDIT: The Short-List at the moment-
Noctua's D14 (since it comes with fans and is top notch) (My memory prevents it from fitting)
CoolIT Domino ALC or Eco ALC in Push-Pull, or
Corsair H50 in Push-Pull.

So I'm upgrading finally and buttoning up all the components. I don't need a cooler but I have the opportunity to seal up my "future proof" rig with a cooler that'll last me! I'm looking for something that'll cool Thubans in the future and take overclock punishment. Right now is not what I'm worried about because I'm only going to be using an AII X4 630 (snagged it for $63, PIB even!) and even overclocked it won't put out much heat.

So I was originally going for an Corsair H50, but then I stumbled across the Domino ALC (off Frosty Tech's comparison list) which beat the H50 by some 3C. Then there is apparently the ECO ALC which is supposed to be better than the Domino, so I researched THAT! Well I started reading some things and a few bits I wasn't too big on with the ALC Units, the plastic barbs (that are reported to break) and the ball-joint swivel at the rad isn't something I'm thrilled about. So CoolIT is sort of out of the running and Corsair is back in. I've found the Corsair used right now for $60 shipped, the ALC's would run mid $70 shipped but I was going to make the exception.

I've got my eyes on a Tuniq Tower 120 and Xigmatek HDT-S1283, but the latter was just something I was going to get to do better than stock and if it goes cheap will pick up anyways. Though I'm not sure what I want to do... My biggest con with these high end air setups is their massive size and weight... I just don't find them all that attractive heh

So really I guess I'm wondering: Will one of those 2 water kits work for OCs and 6core? Or would it just end up being a wiser move to go with a big ass cooler, and if so what is recommended? I mean I know what is on the top of the Frosty Tech list, but that isn't what I'd call "user" results :\

Thanks!
 
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#3
Soon I'll have a Prolimatech Megahalems Rev B sitting here of no use due to I had to purchase all $65 credits at once on my credit @ Moddersmart.
 

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#4
seriously loled when i read the Aqua-vortex in the thread title.

But ya, go for the H50, seems to get glowing reviews and for what it is, its at a good price.
 
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#5
:laugh: May be, but I haven't even gotten passed the first page and I've already gotten a good picture of it's price :p Unless the Boreas is the only part you are referring to.

And I just read a bit further... $800 for that combo :eek: If it was $80 maybe but that is 13x more than I was looking to spend ;) I will finish reading it to at least see how it performs. But it's over a year old and I don't know how it'll compare to the Domino and Eco models :\ There is also that Elite one I noticed and I may be able to get it cheap off eBay, but it looks really bulk haha EDIT: NM it was that Boreas that was what I saw a pic of!
 
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#6
Soon I'll have a Prolimatech Megahalems Rev B sitting here of no use due to I had to purchase all $65 credits at once on my credit @ Moddersmart.
I'd love a Megahalems, except they don't come with the AMD bracketry nor a fan :\ I could strap one of my fans I have laying around (none are 120mm) but that wouldn't be ideal to cool it.

What I was really considering for a HSF was the Sunbeamtech Core-Contact Freezer which came in 1.1C higher than the Tuniq Tower 120, and if I ordered it today I could still get the $15 MIR for it making it just shy of $30!
 

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#7
I'd love a Megahalems, except they don't come with the AMD bracketry nor a fan :\ I could strap one of my fans I have laying around (none are 120mm) but that wouldn't be ideal to cool it.

What I was really considering for a HSF was the Sunbeamtech Core-Contact Freezer which came in 1.1C higher than the Tuniq Tower 120, and if I ordered it today I could still get the $15 MIR for it making it just shy of $30!
Core contact is a good cooler... I can OC to 3.7 on a 1.43v.. temps high 50's
eDIT: if you are going to do some serious overclocking, I would recommend the Prolimatech
 
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#8
Core contact is a good cooler... I can OC to 3.7 on a 1.43v.. temps high 50's
eDIT: if you are going to do some serious overclocking, I would recommend the Prolimatech
Well right now I'll just be running an Athlon II X4 630 (if I didn't get scammed since I took a chance with the eBay seller having no feedback, but you need to start somewhere). So a huge cooler won't be all that required for that. Even OCed I can't see it producing a ton of heat. However I do have plans for a new CPU as I said, and that includes hopefully a Thuban in the future. Which that I will be OCing as well :)

But again my only problem with the Megahalems is it's lack of fan being included, for the price I can most likely get a Nocturna NH-D14 which is the top cooler on the list. And even the 5c the Megahalems offers over the Core-Contact, is not worth the extra $40-45 :\

My thoughts with going CoolIT or Corsair water cooling is if I wanted at some point, I could upgrade the radiator to something bigger/better. Upgrading fans only gains you so much in terms of the heatsinks :\
 

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#9
wait how does this even fit in the op's topic?

OT:

I slaughtered that boreas unit with this:





OP... invest in a decient custom h2o setup.
Because once u buy the core parts, you can always take it with you on the next build.

Core h2o parts are usually the PUMP, RES, RAD, CPU.

About 80% of the time u can take those 4 pieces on ANY platform with the proper cpu mounts.
The only time when u cant really migrate, is a fullboard block, and full gpu blocks, because those are part specific.

But if u initally invest in about 250-300 dollars on your core setup, that usually lasts you a few builds or til you get bored and greedy and want more.
 
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#10
wait how does this even fit in the op's topic?

OT:

I slaughtered that boreas unit with this:


OP... invest in a decient custom h2o setup.
Because once u buy the core parts, you can always take it with you on the next build.

Core h2o parts are usually the PUMP, RES, RAD, CPU.

About 80% of the time u can take those 4 pieces on ANY platform with the proper cpu mounts.
The only time when u cant really migrate, is a fullboard block, and full gpu blocks, because those are part specific.

But if u initally invest in about 250-300 dollars on your core setup, that usually lasts you a few builds or til you get bored and greedy and want more.
Well it all fits into my topic, but honestly your setup doesn't lol It is again, way more than I have. Not that I'm holding BACK on purchasing something more expensive, I just simply do not literally have the money to! My life is in a bit of turmoil with a dash of limbo. I don't have a job ATM, but am sorta working on that, yet someone always has to stay home to watch the dog till we get a dog run to keep her in, plus we're still trying to finish the house and with dad passing away a few months ago, that is now left up to me. I'm going back to Minnesota after in a couple weeks and hopefully I can earn some money helping my friend fix cars, but even then I don't have $200 to spend on cooling stuff. If I wanted to do something, I might as well just get a fish tank and a couple gallons of mineral oil :)

So really as I originally stated, I've only got $60 to spend on a cooler, with the exception I'd make for the CoolIT if it is indeed worth it over a Corsair. Otherwise it's air and that would have to come with AMD brackets and at least a fan that will provide optimal cooling so I don't have to upgrade that later on if I manage to scrape together the funds for a new CPU. Yet before I EVER get a new CPU, I'll get a video card! Since if my x1950 still works, that still will be only marginally better than the onboard HD4290 :\
 

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#11
So really as I originally stated, I've only got $60 to spend on a cooler, with the exception I'd make for the CoolIT if it is indeed worth it over a Corsair. Otherwise it's air and that would have to come with AMD brackets and at least a fan that will provide optimal cooling so I don't have to upgrade that later on if I manage to scrape together the funds for a new CPU. Yet before I EVER get a new CPU, I'll get a video card! Since if my x1950 still works, that still will be only marginally better than the onboard HD4290 :\
and my recomendation has always been either water properly or dont water at all

The H5O has been shown tons of time to = a meglahem, or a push pull true.

The advantages of water vs air when performance is PAR is on the air side.

Air only has to worry about fan.
Water has to worry about both fan and pump.
Air is far simpler to install with 1 unit versus a cheap watersetup with a pump block and rad.

The H5O might be easier to install, however if u have a 120mm fan in the rear, you can fit almost any sink available. So thats even moot.

And lastly, i dont really trust cheap pumps, i dont even trust single pumps which is my i have 5 pumps in my current system...
ive had enough of thermaltake and MAGII pumps to last me a lifetime.
 
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#12
I'd love a Megahalems, except they don't come with the AMD bracketry nor a fan :\ I could strap one of my fans I have laying around (none are 120mm) but that wouldn't be ideal to cool it.

What I was really considering for a HSF was the Sunbeamtech Core-Contact Freezer which came in 1.1C higher than the Tuniq Tower 120, and if I ordered it today I could still get the $15 MIR for it making it just shy of $30!
Supposedly this one comes with the AMD bracket. I guess I'll find out when it comes in, hopefully tomorrow, and we'll see when I throw it up on my FS thread. I'll say now I'm not gonna ask what I paid for it. :D
 
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#13
Supposedly this one comes with the AMD bracket. I guess I'll find out when it comes in, hopefully tomorrow, and we'll see when I throw it up on my FS thread. I'll say now I'm not gonna ask what I paid for it. :D
What made me a bit confused is why the page had ** next to all the AMD stuff, but then didn't have anything on the page mentioning why there were **. I figured like a lot of stuff, it was going to say "Available from Prolimatech for $xx.xx" >_>

And aside from what that page said, you know the best fan to stick on it? With a 50CFM fan, it's only doing .4c better than the Domino ALC water kit, which I presume does at least comparable to the newer Eco model. Both do much better than the H50, but I think I recall reading the H50 with a Push-Pull dual fan does REALLY well. I don't think Frosty Tech ran it like that though.
 

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#14
yeah it will do well with a push pull because of the radiator design on the H5O.

Its a GTS style with high FPI so you need a great static fan to get the most out of it.
 
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#15
yeah it will do well with a push pull because of the radiator design on the H5O.

Its a GTS style with high FPI so you need a great static fan to get the most out of it.
So lets make a short list of what I should make a poll for.
Sunbeamtech Core-Contact Freezer (not the smaller 90mm version)
Kenkickr's Megahalems (provided it does have AMD brackets)
Corsair H50 in Push-Pull
CoolIT Domino ALC
CoolIT Eco ALC

Any other entrants?
 

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#16
push pull TRUE.

Venom X i heard is also good.
 
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#17
push pull TRUE.

Venom X i heard is also good.
Well I think that has the same issue as the Megahalems as it doesn't come with a fan. Only reason I have Ken's up there is due to the fact it isn't full price, so I'd have some money to buy a good fan :)

Overclocked the H50 beats the Venom-X, but I don't know how they have the H50 configured either, if it's stock with 1 pusher fan, or a push-pull :\
http://www.overclockers.com/thermalright-venomousx-review/
 
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#18
I'd love a Megahalems, except they don't come with the AMD bracketry nor a fan :\ I could strap one of my fans I have laying around (none are 120mm) but that wouldn't be ideal to cool it.

What I was really considering for a HSF was the Sunbeamtech Core-Contact Freezer which came in 1.1C higher than the Tuniq Tower 120, and if I ordered it today I could still get the $15 MIR for it making it just shy of $30!

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_23_833&products_id=11420 one is available except you do have to purchase it seperately
 
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#19
Yea, not quite my cup of tea :\ For the money, you can get a much better solution :shadedshu

EDIT: Gah NM I just checked out some google images (to see if I could make a bracket, which I easily could) and that cooler is just way too big heh I'd like my case NOT to tip over please :p But no, it is too much weight for my liking. If I had a horizontal case (like an open air) I might, but otherwise I fear the PCB bowing due to it!
 
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Werribee, Victoria, Australia
Processor core i7 860 @ 4.02ghz (201x20)
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Video Card(s) inno3d GTX570 820/1640 core shaders 2000 memory
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#20
bear in mind that price is in $AUS
 
Joined
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Eastern Tennessee
System Name Firebird
Processor Ryzen 7 1700X
Motherboard MSI X370 Titanium
Cooling Tt Water2.0 PRO (They use the same bracket as 3.0)
Memory G.Skill TridentZ 2x8GB 3200 15-15-15-35 B-Die (@3333 ATM)
Video Card(s) ASUS STRIX R9 390 8GB
Storage Too many. Samsung 750GB, 120GB 850 EVO, Seagate 1TB, Toshiba 1TB, OCZ 32GB Cache Drive
Display(s) Samsung 46" UN46D6050 1080P HDTV
Case Home-made tech bench.
Audio Device(s) ASUS Xonar Essence STX (I use HDMI though *cry*)
Power Supply CWT PUC1000V-S 1000W, Abee Supremer (import) 1200W currently used as primary.
Mouse Razer Copperhead (circa 2005)
Keyboard Tt Challenger Pro (AVOID! Keys wear super fast)
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#21
bear in mind that price is in $AUS
Which would still be like $13USD, and that would almost get me 2nd Day shipping on a Eco ALC heh

EDIT: On that review I posted, in the comments:
Some guy - "Why not compare to the H50 with identical fans?"
Reviewer - "I had no screws to put a 38mm fan on the H50 at the time of its review (which was quite a while before this one). I do have some powerful 25mm fans now and will be running a comparison on both as soon as I have time. There are other new products that have to be reviewed in the mean time, but I'll get more testing done when I have time, rest assured!"
 
Joined
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System Name Money Hole
Processor Core i7 970
Motherboard Asus P6T6 WS Revolution
Cooling Noctua UH-D14
Memory 2133Mhz 12GB (3x4GB) Mushkin 998991
Video Card(s) Sapphire Tri-X OC R9 290X
Storage Samsung 1TB 850 Evo
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Case CM HAF 932
Audio Device(s) ADI (onboard)
Power Supply Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w
Mouse Logitech G602
Keyboard Logitech G710+
Software Windows 10 Professional x64
#22
Personally, I would recommend the Noctua NH-U12P. Two fans, AMD and Intel mounts, plus the heatsink for the price of a Mega. The fans are quiet and are silent if you use the ULNA included. Also, if you want other fans, selling the 120mm Noctuas for $20 each won't be a problem. You can get some pretty nice fans for that price.

Icing on the cake is that the Noctua mount is a solid design that doesn't even let my NH-D14 move on my i7. BTW, you can also e-mail Noctua a picture of your invoice and AMD board/chip and get a free adapter to let you turn the cooler 90* on a AMD setup.

Did I mention it is free? This isn't the first time they have done this (1366 comes to mind).

I wouldn't mind getting a Mega for my AMD setup. Problem is, after fans and mount I'm over the price of a NH-U12P and no promise of better performance. Only problem is, cheapest place I've found them will make them $10 over your limit after shipping.
 
Joined
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Location
Eastern Tennessee
System Name Firebird
Processor Ryzen 7 1700X
Motherboard MSI X370 Titanium
Cooling Tt Water2.0 PRO (They use the same bracket as 3.0)
Memory G.Skill TridentZ 2x8GB 3200 15-15-15-35 B-Die (@3333 ATM)
Video Card(s) ASUS STRIX R9 390 8GB
Storage Too many. Samsung 750GB, 120GB 850 EVO, Seagate 1TB, Toshiba 1TB, OCZ 32GB Cache Drive
Display(s) Samsung 46" UN46D6050 1080P HDTV
Case Home-made tech bench.
Audio Device(s) ASUS Xonar Essence STX (I use HDMI though *cry*)
Power Supply CWT PUC1000V-S 1000W, Abee Supremer (import) 1200W currently used as primary.
Mouse Razer Copperhead (circa 2005)
Keyboard Tt Challenger Pro (AVOID! Keys wear super fast)
Software Win 10 Pro x64
Benchmark Scores Meh.
#23
Personally, I would recommend the Noctua NH-U12P. Two fans, AMD and Intel mounts, plus the heatsink for the price of a Mega. The fans are quiet and are silent if you use the ULNA included. Also, if you want other fans, selling the 120mm Noctuas for $20 each won't be a problem. You can get some pretty nice fans for that price.

Icing on the cake is that the Noctua mount is a solid design that doesn't even let my NH-D14 move on my i7. BTW, you can also e-mail Noctua a picture of your invoice and AMD board/chip and get a free adapter to let you turn the cooler 90* on a AMD setup.

Did I mention it is free? This isn't the first time they have done this (1366 comes to mind).

I wouldn't mind getting a Mega for my AMD setup. Problem is, after fans and mount I'm over the price of a NH-U12P and no promise of better performance. Only problem is, cheapest place I've found them will make them $10 over your limit after shipping.
Well I might be able to budget that in if it is $70. But if it's enormously big like the Mega :\ That's one of the nice things with the water coolers since it puts the radiator(heatsink) off the motherboard.
 

Binge

Overclocking Surrealism
Joined
Sep 15, 2008
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PA, USA
System Name Molly
Processor i5 3570K
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Video Card(s) Gigabyte GTX 680
Case Coolermaster CM690 II Advanced
Power Supply Corsair HX-1000
#24
I own an Eco, and I'm getting great temps with push/pull config. I want to get a radiator next and mod the Eco into a true WC loop.
 
Joined
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System Name Money Hole
Processor Core i7 970
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Memory 2133Mhz 12GB (3x4GB) Mushkin 998991
Video Card(s) Sapphire Tri-X OC R9 290X
Storage Samsung 1TB 850 Evo
Display(s) 3x Acer KG240A 144hz
Case CM HAF 932
Audio Device(s) ADI (onboard)
Power Supply Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w
Mouse Logitech G602
Keyboard Logitech G710+
Software Windows 10 Professional x64
#25
Well I might be able to budget that in if it is $70. But if it's enormously big like the Mega :\ That's one of the nice things with the water coolers since it puts the radiator(heatsink) off the motherboard.
If your concerned about snapping your board I don't know why. If I could snap my P6T6 with my Noctua at 1200g+ then I could do it with my hand. BTW, I've actually dropped that board a couple times. Everything still running fine.

FWIW, all Noctua and Prolimatech coolers don't use the add in backing plate to bolt the cooler hold downs to. Therefore, even with their big coolers it is not possible bend the board when mounting them since they bolt to their respective brackets instead of one attached to the backside of the board.

The smaller Noctua is just under 1kg with both fans.