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680 Lightning Water Cooling Loop

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#1
So, with my new build built(Sorry for the lack of pictures, trying to find my good camera), I thought, what more can I do?......Watercooling my MSI GTX 680 Lightning came into mind. Now, yes, I am a watercooling nublet. Well, I did install a H100.....:cool:
Aesthetics are not really a problem for me, as long as it's blue, black, or white I'm happy!
Here is the partslist so far-
EK Full Cover VGA Block EK-FC680 GTX+ CSQ
Question-Will this fit on my 680 lightning? As I cannot get the lightning edition.
XSPC AX120 Radiator Silver
No Questions
XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump Combo
No Questions
Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, Blue, 6 pack
No Questions
EK-Ekoolant UV Blue (premix 1000mL)
No Questions
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing Clear 1/2ID 3/4OD2 metres
No Questions
Bitspower G1/4 Deluxe White Temperature Sensor
Questions-I can see a spare 1/4 hole in res, with a screw plug in it, this should fit in there? And, where does this plug into? A fan header or something?

A concept layout.

Obviously please advise me of any incompatibilites, worthwhile adjustments, or if there any areas where I can save money.

Watercooling section of the website where I buy my parts-
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160
 
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#2
A regular 680 wb won't fit a lighting PCB's are no way near the same lay out
 

MxPhenom 216

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#3
I don't think there are any Full GPU blocks that will fit your card, And your going to want bigger then a 120 rad, or your temps won't be nearly as good as they could. Almost making the loop not worthwhile I would think.

You would have to get a universal block like this, and then get lame little ram sinks and shit for the extras on the card.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/cata...t_info&cPath=59_971_240_582&products_id=30793
 
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#4
Hmmmmm, I'll talk the guys where I buy my parts from, see if they can get the lightning waterblock in.
This rad should suffice? XSPC AX240 Radiator Black. I should be able to stuff in in the front of my switch 810 if I remove both drive bays. There's a slight chance I can mount it on the bottom, my psu cables just jut out a bit.
 
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#5
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#6
The spare hole in the res with a screw plug is your fill port. Be sure to tighten it to the point that your o-ring is being compressed if you're going to set the system on its side. Didn't have mine tight enough recently, but luckily caught it or I could have killed my SSD and HDD.

Also, you do NOT want to cool a GTX 680 Lightning without getting a full cover block. The VRMs on modern high-end cards run way too hot to let a passive heatsink cool them.

I say ditch the H100 and get a CPU block as well. That way, you can have a 2x120 and 1x120 cooling the CPU and GPU. That should be sufficient.
 
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#7
The spare hole in the res with a screw plug is your fill port. Be sure to tighten it to the point that your o-ring is being compressed if you're going to set the system on its side. Didn't have mine tight enough recently, but luckily caught it or I could have killed my SSD and HDD.

Also, you do NOT want to cool a GTX 680 Lightning without getting a full cover block. The VRMs on modern high-end cards run way too hot to let a passive heatsink cool them.

I say ditch the H100 and get a CPU block as well. That way, you can have a 2x120 and 1x120 cooling the CPU and GPU. That should be sufficient.
From the great words of TacoTown, "A computer is never done, you're just out of money." I'm already pushing the wallet on this one. I might add a cpu block some time Q1 next year. And I believe the port you are talking about is ontop, there is a another one on the back.
 
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#8
And another nooby question. Whats the best way to rinse out your rad? Pour some distilled water into it, cover the holes. shake it, and repeat? Also, are there any other components that need to be rinsed?
 
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#9
I use hot distilled water that I warm up on the stove

You can do ot a few times until the water comes out clear
 
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#10
And another nooby question. Whats the best way to rinse out your rad? Pour some distilled water into it, cover the holes. shake it, and repeat? Also, are there any other components that need to be rinsed?
Rinse rad? I did what you suggested with mine before my new install.

However, if you wan to be anal about it you can set up a tub of water, fill with distilled water, put hose into water, run a pump to push water through rad and out into the tub, via a filter. That way you can leave it running for a while to makes sure every last bit of debris is out.



Also, that other plug you have circled on your reservoir is an LED port by the looks of it. Just another possible inlet (or for cosmetic lighting).
 
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#11
Rinse rad? I did what you suggested with mine before my new install.

However, if you wan to be anal about it you can set up a tub of water, fill with distilled water, put hose into water, run a pump to push water through rad and out into the tub, via a filter. That way you can leave it running for a while to makes sure every last bit of debris is out.

http://img.techpowerup.org/121105/Untitled.png

Also, that other plug you have circled on your reservoir is an LED port by the looks of it. Just another possible inlet (or for cosmetic lighting).
Oh yes, now that I look closer, it seems an LED can be put into it. Also, how do these temp sensors work? They have a 2 pin connector. Where would I plug that into on my motherboard?
 
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#12
Oh yes, now that I look closer, it seems an LED can be put into it. Also, how do these temp sensors work? They have a 2 pin connector. Where would I plug that into on my motherboard?
Not positive mate, I've never used them but i think they're meant to go pretty much on the chip heat spreader. Someone might want to correct me on that.
 
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#13
Temperature sensors go on whatever you want to measure the temperature of. The 2-pin plug has no place on your motherboard, but only on a temperature monitor/fan controller.
 

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#14
Temperature sensors go on whatever you want to measure the temperature of. The 2-pin plug has no place on your motherboard, but only on a temperature monitor/fan controller.
Unless you have a ROG board they all have 2 pin connectors for external temps.

From the great words of TacoTown, "A computer is never done, you're just out of money." I'm already pushing the wallet on this one. I might add a cpu block some time Q1 next year. And I believe the port you are talking about is ontop, there is a another one on the back.
http://gyazo.com/8b2ef2fcadd0a8c82bf3a4db5bcc2366.png?1352100864
Should go into the back plug.

These are available for people without ROG boards. That particular one is stupid expensive, but was the fastest to find. They go for like $9 on ebay.
 

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#16
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#17
They'll both perform well. I'd chose on price, package accessories and aesthetics.

I have two EK blocks on my 7970's. The one i fitted myself tops out at 53-55 degrees (BF3, 2560x1440, maximum graphics settings, and i mean maximum) and this is with fans on my radiator on sub 1000rpm speeds and in a dual gpu loop and it's overclocked at 1050MHz.

So I know as long as you use TLC when assembling the EK block works very well indeed.
 
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#18
They'll both perform well. I'd chose on price, package accessories and aesthetics.

I have two EK blocks on my 7970's. The one i fitted myself tops out at 53-55 degrees (BF3, 2560x1440, maximum graphics settings, and i mean maximum) and this is with fans on my radiator on sub 1000rpm speeds and in a dual gpu loop and it's overclocked at 1050MHz.

So I know as long as you use TLC when assembling the EK block works very well indeed.
What thermal compound would you recommend? This one?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/icdi24cathco.html
 
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#19
You'd be amazed at how many there are out there. The one you link seems to have a cure time, I think that's better for CPU's. I may be wrong.

I used Arctic Cooling MX4, a long established favourite. You can't really go wrong with most thermal pastes. It's how you apply it that matters and that's a hot debate. Credit card smearing over the whole heatsink, small central blob or 'X' line across heatsink, all viable and with detractors too. Just follow manufacturer guidelines. EKWB suggest using the 'X' technique.
 

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#20
I used Arctic Cooling MX4, a long established favourite.
I like MX-4 as well. It sets right away, is easy to work with and cleans up easy. Not to mention is performs well too.

The EK block will come with a Gelid compound which works very well. You can also buy that block directly from EK, it may be cheaper.
 
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#21
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#22
I like MX-4 as well. It sets right away, is easy to work with and cleans up easy. Not to mention is performs well too.

The EK block will come with a Gelid compound which works very well. You can also buy that block directly from EK, it may be cheaper.
Shipping and currency conversion wise, it's cheaper to get the block sidewinder has. Also, how can I drain a loop via a quick disconnect?
 

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#23
Also, how can I drain a loop via a quick disconnect?
Well, you would want the drain at the lowest possible place of the loop. A splitter with a valve would work though it makes a bit more clutter. I prefer just disconnecting a tube.
 
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#24
Well, you would want the drain at the lowest possible place of the loop. A splitter with a valve would work though it makes a bit more clutter. I prefer just disconnecting a tube.
Yeah, I'll just have the quick disconnect, then just jam a bucket next to the case, and pop off the quick disconnect. Also, are there anyways I can cut down the cost? At the moment its at about $500 including shipping.
 

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Jul 19, 2006
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Processor Intel i7 8700k
Motherboard Gigabyte z370 AORUS Gaming 7
Cooling Water
Memory 16gb G.Skill 4000 MHz DDR4
Video Card(s) Evga GTX 1080
Storage 3 x Samsung Evo 850 500GB, 1 x 250GB, 2 x 2TB HDD
Display(s) Nixeus EDG27
Case Thermaltake X5
Power Supply Corsair HX1000i
Mouse Zowie EC1-B
Software Windows 10
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