• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.

6900XT Liquid Devil Issues (Maybe?)

Joined
Feb 17, 2010
Messages
821 (0.19/day)
System Name Borg Cube
Processor R5 3600
Motherboard X470 Taichi
Cooling Water
Memory 32GB @3800CL16
Video Card(s) RX Vega 64
Storage Silicon Power A80 1TB x2
Display(s) Samsung UE590
Case HAF XB
Audio Device(s) Logitech Z623
Power Supply LEADEX III
Mouse Cooler Master MM710
Keyboard Logi G105
Software 10 Pro
Benchmark Scores https://hwbot.org/user/damric/
Joined
Oct 30, 2008
Messages
1,901 (0.40/day)
Processor 5930K
Motherboard MSI X99 SLI
Cooling WATER
Memory 16GB DDR4 2132
Video Card(s) EVGAY 2070 SUPER
Storage SEVERAL SSD"S
Display(s) Catleap/Yamakasi 2560X1440
Case D Frame MINI drilled out
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply Corsair TX750
Mouse DEATH ADDER
Keyboard Razer Black Widow Tournament
Software W10HB
Benchmark Scores PhIlLyChEeSeStEaK
Keep moving it, have to be careful as you want to move it as much as you can but not cause a leak. I rotate mine in every direction so as to remove as much as possible.... you'll know when the rez. Shows you need to add more liquid.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
355 (0.09/day)
Location
St. Louis, MO
System Name Alienware 17R4 / Desktop
Processor Intel Core i7-6820HK @ 3.6 Ghz / AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Motherboard Alienware 17R4 / ASUS X570-F
Cooling Laptop Cooling / EK-Velocity D-RGB
Memory 32GB Crucial Ballistix LT DDR4-2400 / 32GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4-3600
Video Card(s) Nvidia Geforce 1070 GTX (Internal) / Powercolor Liquid Devil 6900XT
Storage 500GB WD Black NVMe / 1TB Inland Premium / 1TB WD Black SN850 / 2TB Inland Premium
Display(s) ASUS TUF VG279QM
Case Alienware 17R4 / Lian-Li Dynamic 011 XL ROG
Audio Device(s) Logitech G933 Artemis / EVGA Nu Audio Pro w/ Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro Red Dragon GM300 Microphone
Power Supply 330W Dell PSU / EVGA P2 1200W Platinum
Mouse Logitech M600 / Logitech G903 / Razer Viper Chroma / Razer Naga Infinity
Keyboard Logitech G613 /Razer Huntsman Elite / Tartarus Pro
I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.
 

Attachments

  • 0512F786-5080-4291-8684-A1ED55D01D4D.jpeg
    0512F786-5080-4291-8684-A1ED55D01D4D.jpeg
    955.5 KB · Views: 24

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
32,278 (6.21/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.

Make sure to ddu before installing the new card.
 

formula383

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
10 (0.13/day)
I have had a few EK blocks that are not a true surface and actually dont even make contact on parts of the die. I guess if you want you can take it apart to see, or just exchange it is probably the better option.

a few things you can do for testing. Does the water get warm (ie touch the tubes before/after the gpu and see if you can feel any heat)? Do the temps fall back to idle right after the load is gone? This will tell you if the loop is flowing properly or not. My guess is the block has been cut too deep with a dull end mill to save money. tooling is expensive so they are probably pushing the limits of the tool to try and save a buck.

PS: you might be able to get a replacement block from Power Color. i really dont know if they will do that or not, my guess is EK will not send you a cold plate for free because you did not buy it from them. EK did send me new cold plates for my gpu blocks that were bad at no charge. (altho it did take a few creative emails to get it taken care of) They also did not require me to ship back the old ones. (they would have required this if the whole block was shipped out to me)
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
63 (0.05/day)
Processor Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
Motherboard MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC
Cooling Corsair Hydro Series™ H100i GTX Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
Memory Corsair Dominator® Platinum Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Memory Kit
Video Card(s) EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW GAMING
Storage Corsair Neutron Series™ XT 240GB SATA 3 6Gb/s SSD (2015 Edition) x2 RAID 0
Display(s) ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q x2
Case Obsidian Series® 250D Mini ITX PC Case
Audio Device(s) Corsair VOID RGB Wireless Premium Gaming Headset
Power Supply Corsair RMi Series RM850i High-Performance ATX Power Supply
Mouse Corsair SCIMITAR RGB Optical MOBA/MMO Gaming Mouse
Keyboard Corsair STRAFE RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard — CHERRY® MX Silent
Software Microsoft Windows 10 PRO
I fixed the loop with a proper 90 degree and it did help the CPU temps a bit. I am back around 60C during Cinebench and CPU intensive loads.

I will be returning this card when I get back from my work trip this week. I am narrowing this down to a bad GPU sensor or something with the application of thermal interface material.

Thank you all for the suggestions and help.

I am going to hope I can get another one or something else when I return.
Good thing I kept my 2080 Super.
What happened to the GPU after the 90 degree upgrade to the loop? Did the temps decreased as well? If so what were the values?

BTW, when you disassemble the loop and take our the GPU out, try to check the block installation. Try to squeeze the card with 2 fingers ( each hand ) with mild pressure from GPU block and backplate and try to feel if there is any movement. If there is, it means the block is loose. If not problem is elsewhere. This is the best way to check the fitment of the block without voiding the warranty.
 

formula383

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
10 (0.13/day)
PSA: in the USA you cannot void your warranty by removing the cooler. *(they might fight you on this, but the law states you may service the card.) Go watch some of gamers nexus tear down video's they talk about it all the time.

Note i am not saying you should tear your gpu apart since it is new i would just get it replaced. As removing the sticker could cause delays and or issues later.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
355 (0.09/day)
Location
St. Louis, MO
System Name Alienware 17R4 / Desktop
Processor Intel Core i7-6820HK @ 3.6 Ghz / AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Motherboard Alienware 17R4 / ASUS X570-F
Cooling Laptop Cooling / EK-Velocity D-RGB
Memory 32GB Crucial Ballistix LT DDR4-2400 / 32GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4-3600
Video Card(s) Nvidia Geforce 1070 GTX (Internal) / Powercolor Liquid Devil 6900XT
Storage 500GB WD Black NVMe / 1TB Inland Premium / 1TB WD Black SN850 / 2TB Inland Premium
Display(s) ASUS TUF VG279QM
Case Alienware 17R4 / Lian-Li Dynamic 011 XL ROG
Audio Device(s) Logitech G933 Artemis / EVGA Nu Audio Pro w/ Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro Red Dragon GM300 Microphone
Power Supply 330W Dell PSU / EVGA P2 1200W Platinum
Mouse Logitech M600 / Logitech G903 / Razer Viper Chroma / Razer Naga Infinity
Keyboard Logitech G613 /Razer Huntsman Elite / Tartarus Pro
I have had a few EK blocks that are not a true surface and actually dont even make contact on parts of the die. I guess if you want you can take it apart to see, or just exchange it is probably the better option.

a few things you can do for testing. Does the water get warm (ie touch the tubes before/after the gpu and see if you can feel any heat)? Do the temps fall back to idle right after the load is gone? This will tell you if the loop is flowing properly or not. My guess is the block has been cut too deep with a dull end mill to save money. tooling is expensive so they are probably pushing the limits of the tool to try and save a buck.

PS: you might be able to get a replacement block from Power Color. i really dont know if they will do that or not, my guess is EK will not send you a cold plate for free because you did not buy it from them. EK did send me new cold plates for my gpu blocks that were bad at no charge. (altho it did take a few creative emails to get it taken care of) They also did not require me to ship back the old ones. (they would have required this if the whole block was shipped out to me)

I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle.

What happened to the GPU after the 90 degree upgrade to the loop? Did the temps decreased as well? If so what were the values?

BTW, when you disassemble the loop and take our the GPU out, try to check the block installation. Try to squeeze the card with 2 fingers ( each hand ) with mild pressure from GPU block and backplate and try to feel if there is any movement. If there is, it means the block is loose. If not problem is elsewhere. This is the best way to check the fitment of the block without voiding the warranty.

The flow did improve as the CPU dropped back to around 60C under load as it did before I added the 6900XT.

The temperatures on the 6900XT were marginally better, getting to 81C and the hot spot hitting 110C.

The card is solid. No movement when squeezing the card.
 

formula383

New Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
10 (0.13/day)
"I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle."

This would indicate bad contact to the die, either from not enough mounting pressure or the cooler is not true. either way it would seem the die is not making contact with your card. at least from what i can tell. would be interesting to see why, but if you can get it replaced at the store thats probably the best way. good luck!
 

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
32,278 (6.21/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
"I had my IR thermometer on the fittings and touched both the card itself (backplate) and tubing while running 3DMark. The fittings never exceed 30C and the card doesn’t get hot to touch at all.

As soon as the load is gone, the temps fall back to idle."

This would indicate bad contact to the die, either from not enough mounting pressure or the cooler is not true. either way it would seem the die is not making contact with your card. at least from what i can tell. would be interesting to see why, but if you can get it replaced at the store thats probably the best way. good luck!

He got it from microcenter so easier to exchange then screw with it.
 
Joined
Jan 23, 2011
Messages
355 (0.09/day)
Location
St. Louis, MO
System Name Alienware 17R4 / Desktop
Processor Intel Core i7-6820HK @ 3.6 Ghz / AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
Motherboard Alienware 17R4 / ASUS X570-F
Cooling Laptop Cooling / EK-Velocity D-RGB
Memory 32GB Crucial Ballistix LT DDR4-2400 / 32GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4-3600
Video Card(s) Nvidia Geforce 1070 GTX (Internal) / Powercolor Liquid Devil 6900XT
Storage 500GB WD Black NVMe / 1TB Inland Premium / 1TB WD Black SN850 / 2TB Inland Premium
Display(s) ASUS TUF VG279QM
Case Alienware 17R4 / Lian-Li Dynamic 011 XL ROG
Audio Device(s) Logitech G933 Artemis / EVGA Nu Audio Pro w/ Beyerdynamic DT 990 Pro Red Dragon GM300 Microphone
Power Supply 330W Dell PSU / EVGA P2 1200W Platinum
Mouse Logitech M600 / Logitech G903 / Razer Viper Chroma / Razer Naga Infinity
Keyboard Logitech G613 /Razer Huntsman Elite / Tartarus Pro
While I was in Houston, I got a call from Powercolor. They said if I sent the card into them, it would be about 3 weeks and the person on the phone didn’t know if they would have another card or not.

I spoke to my folks at Microcenter and since I purchased their protection plan on the card, if I took it apart and something wasn’t user serviceable like a warped block, I could still take it back.

When I started on my task, the screws on the back plate were loose. Like they were evenly torqued, but they still had some room for tightening.

When I got to the six on the back for the block itself, those were also not tightened.

When I took the block off I got pictures of it. The block wasn’t making good contact with the die. So I repasted it and replaced some of the pads that weren’t reusable after I took the block off.

After reapplying the thermal paste and pads, I tightened the the block and backplate back down.

Now I don’t go over 50C on the hot spot and the core has gotten to about 39C-40C.

Much much better. Thank you all again for your assistance.
 

Attachments

  • 81BE0FBB-9224-4A59-8D4A-24541542215B.jpeg
    81BE0FBB-9224-4A59-8D4A-24541542215B.jpeg
    2.9 MB · Views: 29
  • 43AB7570-D4FC-467C-B841-758768A39638.jpeg
    43AB7570-D4FC-467C-B841-758768A39638.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 26

eidairaman1

The Exiled Airman
Joined
Jul 2, 2007
Messages
32,278 (6.21/day)
Location
Republic of Texas (True Patriot)
System Name PCGOD
Processor AMD FX 8350@ 5.0GHz
Motherboard Asus TUF 990FX Sabertooth R2 2901 Bios
Cooling Scythe Ashura, 2×BitFenix 230mm Spectre Pro LED (Blue,Green), 2x BitFenix 140mm Spectre Pro LED
Memory 16 GB Gskill Ripjaws X 2133 (2400 OC, 10-10-12-20-20, 1T, 1.65V)
Video Card(s) AMD Radeon 290 Sapphire Vapor-X
Storage Samsung 840 Pro 256GB, WD Velociraptor 1TB
Display(s) NEC Multisync LCD 1700V (Display Port Adapter)
Case AeroCool Xpredator Evil Blue Edition
Audio Device(s) Creative Labs Sound Blaster ZxR
Power Supply Seasonic 1250 XM2 Series (XP3)
Mouse Roccat Kone XTD
Keyboard Roccat Ryos MK Pro
Software Windows 7 Pro 64
While I was in Houston, I got a call from Powercolor. They said if I sent the card into them, it would be about 3 weeks and the person on the phone didn’t know if they would have another card or not.

I spoke to my folks at Microcenter and since I purchased their protection plan on the card, if I took it apart and something wasn’t user serviceable like a warped block, I could still take it back.

When I started on my task, the screws on the back plate were loose. Like they were evenly torqued, but they still had some room for tightening.

When I got to the six on the back for the block itself, those were also not tightened.

When I took the block off I got pictures of it. The block wasn’t making good contact with the die. So I repasted it and replaced some of the pads that weren’t reusable after I took the block off.

After reapplying the thermal paste and pads, I tightened the the block and backplate back down.

Now I don’t go over 50C on the hot spot and the core has gotten to about 39C-40C.

Much much better. Thank you all again for your assistance.
Sounds like you got 1 qc failed card, I would bring this up to powercolor too.
 
Top