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Advice on first Custom Loop

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#1
Hello everyone!! I thank everyone in advance for your help and support.

I am putting together my first real water cooled PC. Budget is not really a concern, I just would like a nice, quality, (hopefully) maintenance-free system. I will be running a 9590 with 290X. The computer case I am using has all the space in the world, so I will not have to worry there.

So far I already have 1 Aqua Computer Kryographics (copper) for 290X and 1 Kryos HF (Copper) for CPU.

UPDATE:









 
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Norton

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#2
1/2"ID x 5/8" OD is for thin wall tubing (1/16" thick). I personally don't like thin wall tubing since it tends to kink rather than bend nicely- consider 3/8"ID x 5/8"OD or 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD (1/8" thick for both) for tubing.....
 

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#3
1/2"ID x 5/8" OD is for thin wall tubing (1/16" thick). I personally don't like thin wall tubing since it tends to kink rather than bend nicely- consider 3/8"ID x 5/8"OD or 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD (1/8" thick for both) for tubing.....
this, also Id recommend a different radiator like the newer BlackIce Nemesis rads, just because of the price. Maybe the normal Swiftech D5/MCP655 with PWM and a Photon Reservoir/pump top.
 

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#4
Aqutuning opened a US site....I looked around there the other day, and you can buy "kits" a fair bit cheaper than parting it all out yourself. Also some brands we aren't used to typically finding on US shelves.
 
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#5
What are your guy's thoughts on compression fittings vs. barbed fittings? I love the idea of compressions as its easy peasy and reduces the "busyness" around every fitting. How does compression fittings play into the tubing I select?

@Norton , I have taken your advice and moved to 3/8 x 5/8 (did not even think about the flexibility prior to your comment). Even if just an 1/8 of an inch overall, I think 3/4 is too large for my taste.

I am looking at the bitspower 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings, but am stumbling at what type of tubing to get. I read that Tygon is the best, but will not be as friendly when it comes to compression fittings due to it being a weaved tube. I feel I would like to buy my tubing in bulk and cut it myself (OCD) and I am sure my run from Rad to CPU will be over 15 inches, that knocks me out of the pre-cut option.

@sneekypeet , I did check out the Aquatuning site, and actually did pick up an AM3 block I could only find there, but there are some catches. Items are coming from over seas, and they are charging VAT's on top of your Item and Shipping charges. Nevertheless, a great selection of items they have.

@MxPhenom 216 , Thanks for the suggestion. However I am just sold on the Aquacomputers 3x120 Copper Rad. Something about the bulky, tank-ness of it I have taken a liking too. Just the look of the silver frame contrasting with the copper fins inside.
 
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#6
@Norton , I have taken your advice and moved to 3/8 x 5/8 (did not even think about the flexibility prior to your comment). Even if just an 1/8 of an inch overall, I think 3/4 is too large for my taste.

I am looking at the bit fenix 3/8 x 5/8 compression fittings, but am stumbling at what type of tubing to get. I read that Tygon is the best, but will not be as friendly when it comes to compression fittings due to it being a weaved tube. I feel I would like to buy my tubing in bulk and cut it myself (OCD) and I am sure my run from Rad to CPU will be over 15 inches, that knocks me out of the pre-cut option.
.
I just use black Tygon and I'm pretty happy with the "Industrial" look I get from it...

This is a simple loop for my 7970 running through a 140mm rad (black Tygon w/chrome Swiftech fittings)
 
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#7
Yeah, I am kind of learning as I go here. But from what I gather, you actually would prefer a more rigid tube and a compression fitting OR a softer/mid tubing with barb

So seems Tygon would actually work well with a compression fitting. (good to know that's what you are also using.)

Now, Another factor I am looking at is the "Metals" that are in my loop. What I have gathered is:

Copper / Copper = fine
Copper / Aluminum = not so fine (bad mix of metals)
Nickle / Copper = fine
Nickle / Aluminum = supposed to be fine (Nervous that copper is hiding under that nickle coating)

So, I am starting to look at what to actually run in the loop, and I think I would probably just do distilled water with an additive. However, I am intrigued at the silver kill coils, as I REALLY WANT a Maintenance free loop, I don't want to clean it all the time. (I am too OCD for that, and cleaning would be an all day or two day process). But, from what I am reading, if you have ANY Nickle in your loop, to stay away from silver (EK's example from a few years ago).

So, I like the idea of a kill coil to just flat out stop any growth in the loop, but I also don't want to cause any un-necessary ware on the blocks or rads etc... in the loop. Any thoughts?
 
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#8
Yeah, I am kind of learning as I go here. But from what I gather, you actually would prefer a more rigid tube and a compression fitting OR a softer/mid tubing with barb (
)

So seems Tygon would actually work well with a compression fitting. (good to know that's what you are using.)

Now, Another factor I am looking at is the "Metals" that are in my loop. What I have gathered is:

Copper / Copper = fine
Copper / Aluminum = not so fine (galvanizing effect)
Nickle / Copper = fine
Nickle / Aluminum = fine

So, I am starting to look at what to actually run in the loop, and I think I would probably just do distilled water with an additive. However, I am intrigued at the silver kill coils, as I REALLY WANT a Maintenance free loop, I don't want to clean it all the time. (I am too OCD for that, and cleaning would be an all day or two day process). But, from what I am reading, if you have ANY Nickle in your loop, to stay away from silver (EK's example from a few years ago).

So, I like the idea of a kill coil to just flat out stop any growth in the loop, but I also don't want to cause any un-necessary ware on the blocks or rads etc... in the loop. Any thoughts?
Just leave out aluminum and you should be good. I did read that somewhere about EK nickel and silver, and though it's not supposed to be corrosive, they may be somewhat right.

I had a silver kill coil in my previous loop with an EK nickel block, and on the nickel block, I did have a slight issue with small areas of the nickel plating coming off, though nothing as bad as the nickel playing fiasco a few years ago. It didn't affect cooling or performance, and you will never notice it until you disassemble the loop. I wouldn't be too concerned personally, as I think my case was a fairly isolated incident.
 
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#9
Okay, I have updated my list, and now I am at this current one. Any thoughts?


I will be using likely a water additive (and perhaps a kill coil). I do have two nickel plated GPU blocks coming in (Titans), but I also have a copper GPU block for the AMD card as well (290x). So I am thinking of keeping this loop with all Copper and using the Nickel Nvidia blocks in another build.

CPU block will be the Aqua Computer Kryos HF (copper).

So this loop would consist of Kryos HF CPU (Copper), Kryographics GPU (Copper), and Airplex Rad (Copper).
 
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#10
What liquid are you looking at running as I don't recommend using dyes. Get colored tubing and use purely distilled water instead.
 
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#11
What liquid are you looking at running as I don't recommend using dyes. Get colored tubing and use purely distilled water instead.
Liquid I am thinking probably just distilled water with something along the lines of PTnuke and a kill coil. Or I will get a premixed solution.

Now, why do you not recommended adding color to the lines, because of staining purposes?
 

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#12
Liquid I am thinking probably just distilled water with something along the lines of PTnuke and a kill coil. Or I will get a premixed solution.

Now, why do you not recommended adding color to the lines, because of staining purposes?
well I mean if you want to go for aesthetics, might look a bit boring just running clear tubing and clear liquid. Come up with a color scheme, like my rig is Black, White, and red.
 
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#13
Well, I will be using LED lighting more for the aesthetics. As sneeky already knows, the case has tinted glass on both sides (In-Win S-Frame). So even if I was to use something other than a clear tubing (staying away from a dye), it's effect will be subtle. Much less impacting than the LED in the reservoir or accent lights hidden throughout.

I will have a "theme" to the build, but clear tubing (as boring as it may be) is neutral.
 
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#14
Figured I would add a few photos. I finally got my first custom loop finished:










 
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#16
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#17
what GPU is that? three power plugs! Holly cow!
 
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#18
what GPU is that? three power plugs! Holly cow!
hehe, the MSI 290X Lightning. Workhorse of an overclocker. (was fitting a waterblock)
 
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#19
Similar to my loop well not really but same case why did you go with a 240 think rad when u can get a 360 in the front ?
 
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#20
I went with two 240's to allow space for my fittings to all be in that corner close to my res. If I went large I would block the ports.
 
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#21
I run a 240+360 fine I just put the 360 so the fittings where at the bottom.
 
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#22
Nice work man, great photo's, enjoy it! Welcome to the addiction of water cooling.....................
 
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Software Windows 7 ULT / Windows 10 Pro / unRAID
#23
Yeah, I am watercooling everything now. Check out this little steambox build I am working on:

i5 - 4690K (will have an AquaComputer 115X Nickel block)
Asus - Z97i - Plus
EVGA GTX 970 SC w/ EK 670 Block and Backplate
Lian-Li PC-Q19
SFX Silverstone 450 Watt
2 x 4 GB Crucial Ballistix Tracers LEDS (1866)

Because of space, I am going to use a 60MM AlphaCool rad (60MM thick, using 2 x slimline scythe 120mm fans in push pull) and a small Alphacool VPP655 and run without a Res. When I fill, I am going to fill through the top port of the rad (while having it elevated above the rest of the components. Let the pump run for a few with the Rad fill port opened to drain the air bubbles. Then once it has ran for a few hours, and I have tapped on it to shake out the bubbles, I will fill the rest of the way until the fill port is almost full. Cap it back off and then lower the rad back into position.










 
Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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Processor 3930K
Motherboard Asus X79 DELUXE
Cooling WATER
Memory 16GB 2133 G skillz
Video Card(s) Asus 2 X 780TI DCII OC
Storage SEVERAL SSD"S
Display(s) Catleap/Yamakasi 2560X1440
Case D Frame MINI drilled out
Audio Device(s) onboard
Power Supply Corsair TX750
Mouse DEATH ADDER
Keyboard Razer Black Widow Tournament
Software W10HB
Benchmark Scores PhIlLyChEeSeStEaK
#24
Very clean man!
Yeah water isn't that hard, I've had a leak before but I was using a separate PSU so no worries. But you won't be able to see a flow of the water without a Res, unless your using clear tubing?
 

HammerON

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#25
Yeah, I am watercooling everything now. Check out this little steambox build I am working on:

i5 - 4690K (will have an AquaComputer 115X Nickel block)
Asus - Z97i - Plus
EVGA GTX 970 SC w/ EK 670 Block and Backplate
Lian-Li PC-Q19
SFX Silverstone 450 Watt
2 x 4 GB Crucial Ballistix Tracers LEDS (1866)

Because of space, I am going to use a 60MM AlphaCool rad (60MM thick, using 2 x slimline scythe 120mm fans in push pull) and a small Alphacool VPP655 and run without a Res. When I fill, I am going to fill through the top port of the rad (while having it elevated above the rest of the components. Let the pump run for a few with the Rad fill port opened to drain the air bubbles. Then once it has ran for a few hours, and I have tapped on it to shake out the bubbles, I will fill the rest of the way until the fill port is almost full. Cap it back off and then lower the rad back into position.









Interesting build...
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