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Advice & Suggestions on first build under $3k budget

TBGAPowa

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#26
from the pureoverclock forum member Doctor_Death:

Skip the MS keyboard, and go eith the Corsair K90, also the Phanteks CPU coolers do out perform the D14. I'll tell you what, I have a brand new system that I built for Enermax with duel EVGA Classified GTX590s. I have the Gigabyte X79 UD7 installed, but if you perfer ASUS, I can swap it out for a new X79 Rampage 4 Formula. There's also a brand new Intel 3820, and a Lepa G1600 PSU. Blu-ray burner and a DVD burner, 16GBs of Geil 1600MHz, 240GB SSD and a WD 1TB drive. You can own this build for $1500 shipped

Here's a couple of photos, click to enlarge:

http://forums.pureoverclock.com/att...-build-under-3k-budget-fulmo-gt-build-001.jpg
http://forums.pureoverclock.com/att...-build-under-3k-budget-fulmo-gt-build-003.jpg


I can add a 3960X but not for $1500 lol if I switch out the UD7 and replace it with the Rampage 4 Formula, and add the 3960X I have to get at least $2200 which is still a hell of a deal. Just the Vision Tek Racer 240GB and the WD 1TB would set you back a little over $400, never mind the EVGA Classified GTX590s, beside the new GTX690s the 590's are still one of the fastest cards around.

http://forums.pureoverclock.com/gen...-suggestions-first-build-under-3k-budget.html

what do you think?
 

cadaveca

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#27
Honestly, you're in Canada, right?

I bet that user is not, and shipping would be killer on a full rig from the US. NEvermind you'll liekly get dinged at the border for duty and such.

If ya don't mind me asking, where in Canada are you roughly?
 

TBGAPowa

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#28
ontario, why?

updated the list again with additional notes
 
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#29
OMG.. Please don't buy a crap monitor after buying all this goodness.. It'd be like you buying a lamborghini and putting and orange stand on it..
Go selling oranges in your lambo on the side of the road much?
No sir, no you do not..
 
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#30
Hi, i choosed all this parts from Newegg.ca, i tried to conservate the scheme color (blue-black) and at the same tried to stick with a reasonable price/performance ratio.

CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K (choosed it cause better overclockability than sandy due to high temps on then)
RAM: 16GB G.Skill RAM 9Cas Latency @1600MHz.
GPU: Nvidia Geforce GTX 670 (because it's close oc'ed performance to a GTX 680).
SSD: OCZ Agility 240GB SATA III (223.5GB effective).
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 3TB @7200RPM. (2793.96GB effective)
PSU: Corsair 750Watts (enough for GTX 670 SLI).
Case: Corsair Carbide 500R.
Blu-Ray Burner: ASUS.
Mouse: Logitech G500.
Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow Ultimate.
Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LK (ASUS never let me down in overclocking, they have nice features for that).
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212EVO.
Monitor: BenQ XL 24" 120Hz Refresh Rate, 5ms response time (1080p).
O.S: Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64 Bits.

I also included a second fan for the CPU cooler @2500RPM

Total: $2450.36
Grand Total: $2512.00

 
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#31
There are better PSU's out there.
 

TBGAPowa

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#32
OMG.. Please don't buy a crap monitor after buying all this goodness.. It'd be like you buying a lamborghini and putting and orange stand on it..
Go selling oranges in your lambo on the side of the road much?
No sir, no you do not..
what monitor do you recommend?
 

TBGAPowa

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#33
Are the headphones I listed nicely compatible with the soundcard? I wan't 7.1 surround and listen to music that is at mid range.
 
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#34
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#35
Yep, but it's a modular model, cable management it's gonna be a lot easier.

ASUS Xonar 7.1 Chanel it's gonna work, just be sure to put it on the PCI port on the left of the GPU.
The TX is not modular.

Look for a Seasonic X-Series.
 
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#36
what monitor do you recommend?
Monitor? Why not IPS? I know it's more expensive, but it is for a good reason, IMHO.
:toast:

Nice on the 670 sli btw, that'll be a beast..
At higher res on a high res monitor, the 680 would be a bit better though..
Worth the extra cash?? I'm not so sure.. I doubt it...
 

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#37
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#38
The TX750M he listed is modular.
Bah didn't see them "M". The regular TX isnt. Had one for years.

Anyway doesn't matter. Corsair PSU no good as of latley.
 
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#39
For multi-GPU, the Gigabyte GA-X79-UD5 is one of the best boards on the market, as it's one of maybe two or three that have all three PCIe slots wired directly to the CPU without anything in-between, giving the very best connection possible for multiple VGAs. It seems that boards that use bridge chips add latency to the PCIe with those bridges, and I'm talking about things like the ASM1440 PCIe bridges, not the PLX PEX8487!

The problem with that board, though, is that the VRM cooling isn't the best, and when the board is populated with three VGAs, the PCH cooler gets hot...and is connected to the VRM with a heatpipe, so the VRM cooler gets hot as well.
Take this advice with caution. While Cadaveca makes an excellent point, the UD5 has had some rather substantial issues in my experience.

Random instability, power cycling for no discernable reason, and toasty VRM. There's a good reason they went from version F6 to F10 of the BIOS in less than 4 months...


I hate the UD5. I'm on my second RMA, and my second CPU (3930k). That Intel Tuning Plan paid for itself (hint, you might want to get it). I just wish that the slightest of bumps anywhere didn't crash the board. Getting my RAM, CPU clock, and boot options to all work together took a while (less than 4.00 GHz frequency, 125MHz Bclk). This was followed up with a massive crash and no posting after removing power (unplug and store in closet) for 72 hours. I just don't seem to have luck with it, and the nearly $300 price tag is somewhere north of what I would pay for it knowing what I know now.
 

cadaveca

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#40
I hate the UD5. I'm on my second RMA, and my second CPU (3930k). That Intel Tuning Plan paid for itself (hint, you might want to get it). I just wish that the slightest of bumps anywhere didn't crash the board. Getting my RAM, CPU clock, and boot options to all work together took a while (less than 4.00 GHz frequency, 125MHz Bclk). This was followed up with a massive crash and no posting after removing power (unplug and store in closet) for 72 hours. I just don't seem to have luck with it, and the nearly $300 price tag is somewhere north of what I would pay for it knowing what I know now.
Interesting, for sure, and good info.


I'll be honest. Obviously, you got the board before the BIOS recall in specfic areas(BIOS F7 was the "fixed" BIOS).

Perhaps the board did some damage prior to the fix.


Then agian, perhaps not. Still very good info though. I do not have any similar issues with mine, fortunately, but I do not use it often. I did when that whole recall thing happened, and i used it for several months @ 4.6 GHz and 32 GB @ 2048 MHz without any problems. Perhaps I'll re-insatll that one, and give it a go for a few months and see if it flakes out. Gigabyte emphatically denies any problems with the board, so if it does die, it'd be quite interesting to see how they handle it.
 

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#41
You can cut the case fan, onboard sound is not going to be much worse than the discrete unless your audio setup is competent. Also, don't get the Razer Black Widow Ultimate, it has a documented problem about the spacebar failing pretty rapidly. Get something else instead, like Zowie Celeritas or something from this list: http://www.overclock.net/t/491752/mechanical-keyboard-guide

Not sure how you managed to be talked into the 2600K, I thought the memory bandwidth of the 2011 platform and the 3930K should be significantly better than the 2600K in Photoshop and other media work. If that is your final choice its still very respectable though.
 
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#42
Interesting, for sure, and good info.


I'll be honest. Obviously, you got the board before the BIOS recall in specfic areas(BIOS F7 was the "fixed" BIOS).

Perhaps the board did some damage prior to the fix.


Then agian, perhaps not. Still very good info though. I do not have any similar issues with mine, fortunately, but I do not use it often. I did when that whole recall thing happened, and i used it for several months @ 4.6 GHz and 32 GB @ 2048 MHz without any problems. Perhaps I'll re-insatll that one, and give it a go for a few months and see if it flakes out. Gigabyte emphatically denies any problems with the board, so if it does die, it'd be quite interesting to see how they handle it.
I got the board, and didn't install and run it until the F8 BIOS came out. After seeing videos of the things lighting up, I didn't want a processor fried for no reason.

The initial setup generally worked, then after a couple of weeks the instability started to creep in. Given the mild overclock, I was hoping that the F10 would help. Two days of stability, then back to crap. This eventually led to power cycling at startup (not even getting to BIOS), after 72 hours without power.

The first criticism would be that the backup BIOS should solve this. No dice. The CMOS should be reset. Nope, no dice. The backup features didn't solve the problem, so what good were they? Testing generally doesn't last long, so Gigabyte could skirt that without a problem. Check out some of the other general users, and you're likely to find the same results (though trusting Newegg reviews and online posts may be questionable at best...). Add to this the fact that Gigabyte is quick to offer RMA for these boards, and I see a painful pattern. The VRM seems to be a common failure point, and it isn't exactly a well hidden secret.


This may just be my ramblings, but on the third board it's more than just a pattern. I'm done with Gigabyte for the time being, given that 2 of the last 5 different boards I got from them had substantial errors (2 more had small errors), I'm done. I'm on my third board as of this writing, which means that I've had 5 of 6 boards with some error. Gigabyte QC has failed me, and its time to move on. I wish I had better news, because it seems like just ripping on a company. Sigh...
 
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#43
is 16 gb RAM 1600 enough or should I go higher 1866/2133/2400? i changed some of the parts again
return to what you need, but for ram. more is better some come in one package like triple channel ram
for timing tighter is better but if you cant find it just take the standard timing coz they little bit cheaper :toast:
 

cadaveca

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#44
No real reason ,jsut curious about local shopping options.

I wish I had better news, because it seems like just ripping on a company. Sigh...
Yeah, unfortunate. I would hazard to say though, that Ggiabyte does tend to repair products, not repalce them, so chances are you've stil lgot the same board. You may have got news ones, for sure, but if they feel they can repair, they generally do, as it saves greatly on costs.


At least I can safely say that the Z77 series of products are a completely different animal, and all OEMs seem to have really excellent products out. Of course, I typically receive review parts direct from Taiwan, and I certainly hope they pre-test products before sending them to me considering it's my job to critique and tell people about things I find amiss.

Honestly, because X79, on Intel's part, was rife with issues(chipsets with disabled SAS support, CPUs with 6 cores or 4 cores instead of the actual 8 cores that's in each chip), I really do find it hard to directly place blame directly on OEMs for issues with that platform, as I do kind of expect odd problems to arise since the platform was launched neutered.

That said, my 3960X has definitely degraded.
 

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#45
updated the list. switched to sabertooth z77 motherboard, can’t choose between the two headsets so if any audiophiles could voice their opinions that would be great and i am still planning on downgrading to a 120gb ssd instead but don’t know if i should go with the lower iOPS. I chose the creative card over asus ones as most gamers have mentioned better clarity for gaming and movies, for music asus ones are better certainly but i’m not that big on music. which GPU 670/80 do you guys recommend since i won’t be hardcore OCing
 

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#46
Either headphone is good, just get any. The 360 is a tad better, but you will not be able to tell with an untrained ear.

Oh, and you should know that both of them don't really sound the same, so it gets even harder to know which one is better.

Have you considered getting a headphone and a mic separately? Lots more options to choose from, and usually cheaper (but more hassle)
 

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#47
an AntLion ModMic with HD 555 for example? i listen to mid range music, movie sound is that great a deal for me and gaming should be good enough for both fun and competitive gaming
 

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#48
i have listed the GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD3H as my motherboard but may switch back to an asus. though i do hear a lot about how crappy the asus rma is
 

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Cooling Zalman CPNS9900MAX 130mm
Memory G.Skill DDR3-2133, 16gb (4x4gb) @ 9-11-10-28-108-1T 1.65v
Video Card(s) MSI AMD Radeon R9 390 GAMING 8GB @ PCI-E 3.0
Storage 2x120Gb SATA3 Corsair Force GT Raid-0, 4x1Tb RAID-5, 1x500GB
Display(s) 1x LG 27UD69P (4k), 2x Dell S2340M (1080p)
Case Antec 1200
Audio Device(s) Onboard Realtek® ALC898 8-Channel High Definition Audio
Power Supply Seasonic 1000-watt 80 PLUS Platinum
Mouse Logitech G602
Keyboard Rosewill RK-9100
Software Ubuntu 17.10
Benchmark Scores Benchmarks aren't everything.
#49
i have listed the GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD3H as my motherboard but may switch back to an asus. though i do hear a lot about how crappy the asus rma is
an AntLion ModMic with HD 555 for example? i listen to mid range music, movie sound is that great a deal for me and gaming should be good enough for both fun and competitive gaming
There is a little thing called the edit button. Don't double post as it's against the forum guidelines. Just saying since I've seen you do this numerous times, so I'm assuming you didn't know.
 
Joined
Mar 26, 2012
Messages
231 (0.11/day)
Likes
36
Location
Ohio
System Name Cogito Ergo Switch
Processor i7 3930K @ 4.8Ghz
Motherboard Asus Rampage IV Extreme
Cooling Custom Water (CPU/MB/GPU Blocks, 420+240rads PP)
Memory 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws Z 2133 9-11-10-27 @ 2380 9-10-10-28
Video Card(s) EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB SLI @ 1344core/7648mem + EVGA 650Ti PhysX
Storage Samsung 830 256GB SSD (Boot) + 1TB WD10EZEX (Games/Apps) + 1TB WD10EALX (Prog) + 2x 320GB WD/HGST
Display(s) Dell U2412HM + U2312HM + 2x P2212Hbe + Viewsonic 21.5" 1680x1050
Case NZXT Switch 810 White - MODDED
Audio Device(s) Creative X-Fi Titanium HD PCI-Express
Power Supply NZXT HALE90 850W - Custom Sleeved Cables (White, No Heatshrink)
Software Windows7 Pro x64
#50
I really like NZXT power supplies and cases, but with your budget you could always get a Caselabs M8, one of the most drool-worthy cases around (with only Caselabs' own TH10 bettering it IMO).

Anyway, here is my parts suggestions... (X79/Z77)
CPU: 3820 ($270) / 3770K ($350)
MB: P9X79-Pro ($275) or Rampage IV Formula ($350) / P8Z77-Deluxe ($290) or Sabertooth ($230)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z DDR3-2133 16GB 4x4GB ($125) or Corsair Dominator GT 2133 16GB ($300)
SSD: Samsung 830 256GB ($200 on sale) or either Corsair ForceGT 240GB ($230) or Performance Pro 256GB ($280)
HDD: Western Digital RE4 1TB 7200rpm ($120)
GPU: EVGA GTX670 FTW 2GB ($410)
PSU: NZXT HALE90 850W modular PSU ($160) or Seasonic Platium 850W modular PSU ($?)
BD Drive: Lite-On Blu-Ray Burner ($55)
Case: NZXT Switch 810 ($160) or Caselabs M8 or M10 ($380-475)
Fans: Cougar 140mm fans ($11/ea on sale right now) or NZXT FX140LB 98cfm ($18/ea)
CPU Coolers - AIR: Phanteks ($90); CLOSED-LOOP H2O: Thermaltake 240mm Performance LCS ($100 and best on market); REAL H2O: XSPC RAYSTORM EX360 Kit ($260)

I am typing this on my phone so I apologize if my prices aren't accurate, but I know that the above parts are all very good.
Spring for the 3930K if you do a lot of P-Shop/3D modeling; can't beat 12t/6c!