Aiming for a new AMD PC setup for about $/€1800, plus-minus, but I kindly need some help and advice to get the right parts...

[Deleted member 215115]

Keep the PSU.

 

[Selaya]

The SuperNova G3 is one of the better ones (a revised Leadex II, which in itself is one of the better platforms).
Really just keep it it's fine, dont waste money you don't need to spend.

 

[Stimer111]

With Black Friday upcoming and my current PC is not doing its job that well any longer, as it is being overly slow and troublesome when it comes to loading etc. + I cannot play any of the new games that I wanna play because of the specs being bad and whatnot + it's about time to get myself a new PC. This time, I am going for an AMD-setup, and it would be great if it would last for a few years, like 5+ years or so. But, I do not need ALL the parts, as I do have some parts available, such as: monitors (I have 4 available), case (FD R6), power supply (I have a G3 650W now), Noctua-fans in various sizes, mouse and a keyboard. I do need the following parts, however:
- CPU
- CPU cooler
- Graphics card
- Memory
- Motherboard
- SSD
- Power supply

I will use my PC primarily for these things, so it should perform these tasks without any issues:
- Livestreaming and streams (running various streaming programs and other apps in the background)
- Multitasking (I stream while I do other things/projects such as web designing)
- Photo + Video rendering + editing (my current PC takes a long time to perform these tasks, to be honest)
- Light gaming (NO FPS. Mostly sports, RPG, adventure and action games. I am NOT picky when it comes to running all games at max performance/quality etc.)

With Black Friday coming up, I am going to scout for some options, but this time, my budget is about $/€1800, plus-minus.

Any thoughts on a setup that would deal with my tasks nicely?

PS: Look at my listed PC specs for my current setup, if that matters...

- CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
- CPU cooler - NOCTUA NH-U14S /140mm fan/ - NOCTUA NH-U14S
- Graphics card - RTX 3070 or 6800 - MSI Radeon RX 6800 GAMING TRIO 16G
- Memory - G.SKILL 32GB KIT DDR4 3600 MHz CL16 Trident Z RGB Neo for Ryzen 3000
- Motherboard - ASUS ROG STRIX X570-F GAMING
- SSD - Apacer PP3480 1TB /2000 TBW/ - Apacer PP3480 1TB
- Power supply - Seasonic PRIME - Seasonic Prime 750 W Platinum
- CASE - be quiet! Pure Base 500DX Black

I am PC builder, I can do this (-:

Best budget options - 5600x + RTX 3070 : 1570 Eur
ASUS ROG Strix GA15 G15DK-R5600X152T Black
Prebuilt - Quiet - Great PC

 

[Why_Me]

- CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
- CPU cooler - NOCTUA NH-U14S /140mm fan/ - NOCTUA NH-U14S
- Graphics card - RTX 3070 or 6800 - MSI Radeon RX 6800 GAMING TRIO 16G
- Memory - G.SKILL 32GB KIT DDR4 3600 MHz CL16 Trident Z RGB Neo for Ryzen 3000
- Motherboard - ASUS ROG STRIX X570-F GAMING
- SSD - Apacer PP3480 1TB /2000 TBW/ - Apacer PP3480 1TB
- Power supply - Seasonic PRIME - Seasonic Prime 750 W Platinum
- CASE - be quiet! Pure Base 500DX Black

I am PC builder, I can do this (-:

Best budget options - 5600x + RTX 3070 : 1570 Eur
ASUS ROG Strix GA15 G15DK-R5600X152T Black
Prebuilt - Quiet - Great PC

View attachment 226679

Not bad other than the fact the 12700K/KF mops the floor with both of those cpu's.

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-core-i7-12700k-review

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i7-12700k-alder-lake-12th-gen/

 

[kane nas]

Not bad other than the fact the 12700K/KF mops the floor with both of those cpu's.

https://www.tomshardware.com/news/intel-core-i7-12700k-review

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i7-12700k-alder-lake-12th-gen/

price for ddr5?

 

[Why_Me]

price for ddr5?

Aiming for a new AMD PC setup for about $/€1800, plus-minus, but I kindly need some help and advice to get the right parts...

With Black Friday upcoming and my current PC is not doing its job that well any longer, as it is being overly slow and troublesome when it comes to loading etc. + I cannot play any of the new games that I wanna play because of the specs being bad and whatnot + it's about time to get myself a new...

www.techpowerup.com

 

[seth1911]

PSU is junk, take a Super Flower Leadex 3

 

[Deleted member 215115]

PSU is junk, take a Super Flower Leadex 3

Surely you're just trolling.

 

[winterwonderland]

Well, @Why_Me and @Selaya and all others with useful and helpful tips! Imma wait for Cyber Monday (useless as it is) to kick in, since i will then get the remaining items, seeing as i got the 12700KF for €20 more than the 12600KF. What is left to get:
- G.Skill Aegis DDR4 3200MHz 2x16GB
- Intel 660p Series M.2 2280 SSD 2TB or WD Blue SN550 M.2 2280 2TB (both are priced the same, which one should i opt for?)
- Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 (3x120mm)
- Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X DDR4
- The GPU + the PSU i will put on hold until i find a good enough deal on the GPU's that you lot have suggested in this thread.

And i might go for the same case that i already have, FD Define R6, as that one is SILENT/QUIET and spacious, but i gotta consider the be Quiet-cases you lot have mentioned as well. So far, so good. Once again, thank you so much for all the help and advises, and for your patience with my Q's!

 

[Selaya]

I would go with the SN550. The 660p is QLC and shouldn't be considered unless it's at a massive discount.

 

[Why_Me]

Ok, but it seems like the 12700KF scores better on every aspect than the 12600KF (obviously), so if i can get the 12700KF for about the same price as the 12600KF, then i should most likely just buy the 12700KF, huh?

Ok, i will check out the prices on PSU's over here, for the mentioned Seasonic and EVGA's.

I will not buy a GPU yet, unless i find an insane good deal, ofc, but for now, i will stick to the GPU i already have.

Yes, i will definitely ask about the LGA-bracket upon ordering the setup. Thanks for the tip! EDIT: this is a picture of what is included within the box, and is that the LGA-bracket, or? https://files.catbox.moe/032t42.jpg

Otherwise, it seems like i am good to go with the Intel-setup, and that for a MUCH cheaper price than i originally intended to spend for the AMD-setup!

You made a wise choice by the looks of it.

Intel Core i7-12700K vs AMD Ryzen 9 5900X and 5800X Face Off: Intel Rising

Core i7 vs Ryzen 9 and Ryzen 7, fight!

www.tomshardware.com

 

[winterwonderland]

You made a wise choice by the looks of it.

Intel Core i7-12700K vs AMD Ryzen 9 5900X and 5800X Face Off: Intel Rising

Core i7 vs Ryzen 9 and Ryzen 7, fight!

www.tomshardware.com

One last question... Eh.. I kinda went for the "K" instead of the "KF"... I didn't notice that until now. How is the K compared to the KF and/or did i make a mistake? It was only priced €30 above the 12600K (yes, K, not KF), so i thought it'd be a wiser decision to go for the "K" instead of the "KF"... Any inputs on that?

 

[Why_Me]

One last question... Eh.. I kinda went for the "K" instead of the "KF"... I didn't notice that until now. How is the K compared to the KF and/or did i make a mistake? It was only priced €30 above the 12600K (yes, K, not KF), so i thought it'd be a wiser decision to go for the "K" instead of the "KF"... Any inputs on that?

K is a better choice than KF seeing how the K cpu has integrated graphics so if something ever goes wrong with your gpu you can still use your PC.

 

[Speedyblupi]

I would go with the SN550. The 660p is QLC and shouldn't be considered unless it's at a massive discount.

New versions of the SN550 are also QLC, and actually worse than the 660p because they're DRAMless.

Western Digital does the wrong write thing — again – Blocks and Files

Comment. Western Digital has done it a second time, and treated buyers of its storage drives with … well, what? Disregard? Disdain? How would you describe the near silent substitution of inferior flash for the original NAND in its M.2 format Blue SN550 SSD? This was found out by a Chinese media...

blocksandfiles.com

WD will replace the drive if it doesn't meet the "performance requirements", but as I understand it, they'll replace it with another QLC drive which would still be much slower and less reliable than the TLC version (which is normally significantly faster than the officially advertised spec of the drive during long writes), and they won't replace it at all if it meets that specification.

Western Digital Pledges Transparency, Will Replace QLC SN550 for Unhappy Buyers

If you bought an SN550 that didn't meet your performance expectations, we suggest contacting WD. Please let us know how it goes.

www.extremetech.com

I'd personally get a Kingston A2000 - its controller sucks, but it is at least a TLC drive with DRAM cache, and normally not much more expensive than DRAMless QLC. Using the SN550 shouldn't cause any harm, just be aware that sustained write performance might be a lot worse than benchmarks on older TLC-based versions of the drive indicate.

One last question... Eh.. I kinda went for the "K" instead of the "KF"... I didn't notice that until now. How is the K compared to the KF and/or did i make a mistake? It was only priced €30 above the 12600K (yes, K, not KF), so i thought it'd be a wiser decision to go for the "K" instead of the "KF"... Any inputs on that?

The non-F version has an iGPU. If you were just gaming I'd say save your money unless you're really worried about debugging your main GPU, but as you'll be using the PC for photo and video editing, an iGPU would potentially be very useful for GPU acceleration, especially if you use Adobe software like Photoshop and Premiere, which has a lot of Intel-specific GPU accelerated features.

 

[Selaya]

Interesting.
Yeah, in that case I'd recommend something non-QLC that is of a similar price. The A2000'll do the job. The Kioxia Exceria seems to be another hot contender tbh.

 

[Speedyblupi]

Remember that a PSU usually has some headroom beyond their rating, and basically nothing is capable at loading both CPU and GPU to the max simultaneously.

This is true, but it puts you well outside the drive's ideal efficiency range, and can negatively impact long-term reliability. I personally wouldn't use a PSU that's rated for less than 20% more than the expected peak power usage of the PC (e.g. if a PC uses 500W at peak load, I would consider 600W the bare minimum PSU). Erring on the side of caution that much might not be strictly necessary, but considering that failing PSUs can easily damage other PC components and that you'll likely save the money you spent on a more powerful PSU on slightly lower electricity costs over the life of the PC (it might only be 10W or so, but that adds up), it's definitely worth it, in my opinion.

Of course, some people go way overboard, arguably to the point of paranoia, and waste money on 1000W PSUs for 300W systems, but it's worth making sure you have some guaranteed headroom rather than relying on the PSU to be able to run above-spec.

 

[Selaya]

I can see your point but the thing is just, how often will the average user hit the maximum possible load (GPU & CPU 100%)?
I'd honestly confident enough to bet my money on [x] never, since generally workloads either load the GPU or the CPU, not both at the same time. And for the just in case, the built-in headroom of a PSU should be quite alright.

 

[Speedyblupi]

You wouldn't often have all components running at full power (at least outside of stress tests and heavy benchmarks), though it would be a lot more likely in this case than for a typical gaming PC, as (according to OP) this PC would also be used for streaming and video editing, and other types of multitasking while gaming.

Transient power spikes can trigger OCP or OPP even if sustained load is below the PSU's power rating (though this depends on the specific PSU model and what GPU and CPU you have - Nvidia's RTX 3000-series are reported to be particularly prone to large power spikes, for example), and even if the typical load is around 80% of the PSU's rated power, it's still not in the ideal efficiency range for most PSUs (around 50-60% load).

I guess it really depends on how careful you want to be, and how much you care about running in your PSU's ideal efficiency range - you're not wrong, but I'd personally be more cautious.

 

[Selaya]

I mean, I'm totally on board with you there, but the fact remains that for the vast majority of users (even streamers/content creators, imho - if you're not an idiot you'll always CPU software render your uploads, and GPU your streams, for instance) oversizing the PSU is just a waste of money, unless they can afford it. But being cost-conscious w/ your PSU (sizing) is one of the better ways of shaving off $50-100 your build.
Obviously, you shouldn't be purchasing gutless wonders, but that's something else entirely.

 

[RandallFlagg]

Well, @Why_Me and @Selaya and all others with useful and helpful tips! Imma wait for Cyber Monday (useless as it is) to kick in, since i will then get the remaining items, seeing as i got the 12700KF for €20 more than the 12600KF. What is left to get:
- G.Skill Aegis DDR4 3200MHz 2x16GB
- Intel 660p Series M.2 2280 SSD 2TB or WD Blue SN550 M.2 2280 2TB (both are priced the same, which one should i opt for?)
- Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 (3x120mm)
- Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X DDR4
- The GPU + the PSU i will put on hold until i find a good enough deal on the GPU's that you lot have suggested in this thread.

And i might go for the same case that i already have, FD Define R6, as that one is SILENT/QUIET and spacious, but i gotta consider the be Quiet-cases you lot have mentioned as well. So far, so good. Once again, thank you so much for all the help and advises, and for your patience with my Q's!

Something worth noting with Western Digital drives, you can go to their site and get a free copy of Acronis. This is a pretty good backup and imaging application. It can do whole drive images, specific partitions, and even create bootable media to restore a backup image from.

I recently picked up a Team Group MP33 Pro 2TB m.2, which doesn't come with any software, and used WD's Acronis to copy my old m.2 C:\ drive and then copy a partition from my 1TB WD SATA SSD. Only reason I could use it is b/c I already have that WD SSD along with a WD external backup drive - it won't work if you don't have a WD product attached.

Just having that software, makes getting the WD worth it.

 

[winterwonderland]

Something worth noting with Western Digital drives, you can go to their site and get a free copy of Acronis. This is a pretty good backup and imaging application. It can do whole drive images, specific partitions, and even create bootable media to restore a backup image from.

I recently picked up a Team Group MP33 Pro 2TB m.2, which doesn't come with any software, and used WD's Acronis to copy my old m.2 C:\ drive and then copy a partition from my 1TB WD SATA SSD. Only reason I could use it is b/c I already have that WD SSD along with a WD external backup drive - it won't work if you don't have a WD product attached.

Just having that software, makes getting the WD worth it.

Oh cool. I have noted this down so now I will just wait for the WD SSD to go down on the price. Thanks for the tip! WD it is for me!

EDIT: Any experiences with the Kingston NV1 2TB SSD? Hmm... I am asking because that is cut down a lot in the price today...

 

[Selaya]

Today we are taking a look at the Kingston NV1 1TB SSD. This is the third Kingston SSD I have looked at, and was originally intended as something of a companion piece for the Kingston A2000 review. The NV1 occupies the entry-level slot in Kingston’s SSD stack, and as a result is a DRAM-less QLC drive with very modest performance targets. Let us see how it stacks up!

Kingston NV1 1TB NVMe SSD Review

In our Kingston NV1 1TB SSD review, we see how well this entry-level PCIe Gen3 NVMe SSD performs next to the competition

www.servethehome.com

No.
Please.
Do not buy this.

 

[winterwonderland]

Kingston NV1 1TB NVMe SSD Review

In our Kingston NV1 1TB SSD review, we see how well this entry-level PCIe Gen3 NVMe SSD performs next to the competition

www.servethehome.com

No.
Please.
Do not buy this.

Ok, I won't. I will try to opt for a WD drive, yes. What's the difference between a 1TB and 2TB? Does W10 / W11 require that much space, or?

@Why_Me , @Selaya and others; are there any other similar alternatives for a cooler that fits nicely along with my case (FD R6) + i7 12700K + Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X? What about the mentioned Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3? It's not water cooling, but seems to be a great one nonetheless. I am open for suggestions as the cooler is the one thing I have not yet ordered.

EDIT: I see a trusted PC-fella in my country (he's sold a dozen PC-parts and has 10/10-user rating etc) who is selling the mentioned Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 with a 70% discount as it has been used for 3 weeks and changed due to an upgrade. How is buying a CPU cooler used, really? Isn't that well worth the money, or? Seeing the pics, it seems to be in top notch condition as well!

EDIT2: Also, are there alternatives to the mentioned DDR4 memory? The one suggested is not available anywhere here where i am; Norway. Or, it is available, but at a big cost.

 

[Selaya]

Looks like the Define R6's compatible w/ the NH-D15. I'd go for that, in that case.

As for the Memory, unless you're into Memory OC and are willing to splurge out for some B-Die, any 3600-C16 will do, really. Maybe 3200-C16, depending on whether your 12700K can handle 1,800 MHz on the IMC or not, I guess ...

 

[winterwonderland]

Looks like the Define R6's compatible w/ the NH-D15. I'd go for that, in that case.

As for the Memory, unless you're into Memory OC and are willing to splurge out for some B-Die, any 3600-C16 will do, really. Maybe 3200-C16, depending on whether your 12700K can handle 1,800 MHz on the IMC or not, I guess ...

Ah, that DH-15 i have seen before, and it's been suggested before as well, so that definitely looks like a solid alternative. And it's just the regular D15, not the other D15 editions?

As for the memory... shouldn't i be going with 3600-C16, yes? If so, any suggestions for a 3600-C16 that will work great with my setup?