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Are All of My Parts Compatible? Please Help Me Out... I'm New To Building PCs

RiverFlows73

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CPU: Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard: ASRock B450M Pro4
RAM: Samsung DDR4 8GB RAM x 2
GPU: GTX 1650 Super
SSD: Crucial BX500 240GB

Case & PSU is to be decided... although I may just end up going for a 80+ Standard for the PSU and the cheapest one for the case

BTW I am on a budget... I'm trying to keep the pc, monitor, keyboard, mouse, basically everything combined for lower than $700... I hope thats possible

Thanks
 
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Are you buying from the US? (Assumingly going by your currency)
Power supply is one thing you shouldn't cheap out if possible, maybe something like this if budget fits:
Case :
Get another fan for exhaust

What speed are those Samsung ram?
You can get 3000-3200mhz speed for under $60.
 

RiverFlows73

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Hmm.. I don't know if a 80+ gold will fit in the budget.. would a bronze be decent enough?
Thanks on the case and ram suggestions though. I'll look more into those :)
 
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Cheap&stable ram: G.SKILL Aegis 16GB 3000MHz CL16 DDR4 DIMM KIT OF 2 F4-3000C16D-16GISB
3200 are few bucks pricier, pretty same performance.
80+ bronze is PERFECT for ryzen 3600 and 1650s - SeaSonic S12III 500 W 80+ Bronze or better SeaSonic S12III 550 W 80+ Bronze. They aren't modular, BTW. Modular starts with 80+ GOLD at core GM series. Alternatively, I advise your Corsair PSUs or BeQuiet!

please, consider Crucial MX500 instead of BX series. Or Kingston KC600. Cache-less ssd are suitable for upgrading old systems, they are bad for modern systems!
 
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RiverFlows73

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Oh Are the BX series cacheless? I didn't know that! Thanks for letting me know
I just saw a few videos recommending it and assumed it was decent but now that I know, I'm changing :)
 
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You broke one of the two cardinal rules when seeking buying advice. The first you met - you stated your budget and that is great! :) However, you failed to state the primary purpose for this computer. Will it be used primarily for work and school? Monitoring and updating Facebook? Paying bills, surfing the Internet and checking email? Gaming?

Speaking of your budget, while $700 is certainly doable, when the keyboard, mouse and monitor must come out of that too, that budget is pretty tight. Plus, it is important to understand new computers typically require their own Windows license. Since most Windows licenses are OEM/System Builders licenses, and since those OEM/SB licenses cannot, under any circumstances, legally be transferred to a new computer, you likely need to budget for a new Windows license too - or plan on going with one of the many capable and free versions of Linux. That means you cannot just take an old drive that includes Windows out of an old computer, put it in a new computer and be good to go legally.

Also, IMO, your SSD is too small. While technically, 240GB will support Windows, all your drivers, and most applications, it will not take long for free disk space to become limited. That will impact performance and can help accelerate aging of the SSD. I recommend at least 500GB. That will give you lots of room for the OS, drivers, and all your applications (except major games) and allow optimal and efficient SSD TRIM and wear leveling operations - essential to ensure maximum life and performance out of your SSDs.

That said, your question was about compatibility. Fortunately, when it comes to building our own PCs, the ATX Form Factor standard helps ensure components will physically fit together and connect properly in terms of electrical connections and voltages. :)

As for other compatibility issues, if you look at your motherboard's support page here, you will see memory and CPU QVLs (qualified vendors lists). These are lists of components the board maker has tested and verified to be compatible with that specific board. There are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all so you don't have to buy listed RAM. But you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility.

Since EVERYTHING inside the case depends on good, clean reliable power, it is a mistake to cut corners in the budget on the power supply. So do make sure you get a decent one from a reliable maker. I like EVGA and Seasonic. Read several reviews from the review sites, including this one. Do NOT rely on user reviews.

Also, it is important to understand 80 PLUS certification provides absolutely zero indication of a PSU's quality or reliability. It is about efficiency only. And one of the key requirements is for 80 PLUS certified PSUs to be at least 80% efficient from minimum load up to 100% load. The more efficient a PSU is, the less wasted energy there is, and, perhaps more importantly, the less generated heat there is. I generally recommend at least Bronze but prefer Gold. Unless you find a heavily discounted price, Platinum and Titanium PSUs are not worth the extra costs as it can take years to make up the difference in costs with energy savings.

There is nothing wrong with non-modular (wired) PSUs. In fact, there are fewer parts and obviously fewer connections that introduce additional potentials for problems. But the downside is that wired PSUs greatly increase the need for good cable management. And that is where a quality case comes in.

IMO, a quality PSU along with a quality case make up the foundation for a quality computer that can support you through many years of upgrades. A decent case will support many large (120mm or larger - preferably 140mm) case fans. It will be "true" - that is, the bends in the sheet metal will be exactly 90.0° to ensure all 4 feet sit squarely on the floor - the case will not wobble or put undue stress on the motherboard and other mounted devices. The cut edges of the sheet metal will be "finished". That is, they will be grounded smooth or rolled to prevent shredding your knuckles and wire insulation. There will be good cable management features. And a must for me is the case will have removeable, washable air filters.

So my advice, especially since it looks like a keyboard, mouse, monitor and Windows licenses are all needed too, is wait and try to build up your budget a little more. $1000 will provide a lot more options. And if you buy a quality PSU and case now, along with a full retail license of Windows, and a decent monitor, those are 4 items that can carry you through years of updates without having to buy new each time - unless you want to, of course. That's the beauty of building your own. So many options! :)
 
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You broke one of the two cardinal rules when seeking buying advice. The first you met - you stated your budget and that is great! :) However, you failed to state the primary purpose for this computer. Will it be used primarily for work and school? Monitoring and updating Facebook? Paying bills, surfing the Internet and checking email? Gaming?

Speaking of your budget, while $700 is certainly doable, when the keyboard, mouse and monitor must come out of that too, that budget is pretty tight. Plus, it is important to understand new computers typically require their own Windows license. Since most Windows licenses are OEM/System Builders licenses, and since those OEM/SB licenses cannot, under any circumstances, legally be transferred to a new computer, you likely need to budget for a new Windows license too - or plan on going with one of the many capable and free versions of Linux. That means you cannot just take an old drive that includes Windows out of an old computer, put it in a new computer and be good to go legally.

Also, IMO, your SSD is too small. While technically, 240GB will support Windows, all your drivers, and most applications, it will not take long for free disk space to become limited. That will impact performance and can help accelerate aging of the SSD. I recommend at least 500GB. That will give you lots of room for the OS, drivers, and all your applications (except major games) and allow optimal and efficient SSD TRIM and wear leveling operations - essential to ensure maximum life and performance out of your SSDs.

That said, your question was about compatibility. Fortunately, when it comes to building our own PCs, the ATX Form Factor standard helps ensure components will physically fit together and connect properly in terms of electrical connections and voltages. :)

As for other compatibility issues, if you look at your motherboard's support page here, you will see memory and CPU QVLs (qualified vendors lists). These are lists of components the board maker has tested and verified to be compatible with that specific board. There are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all so you don't have to buy listed RAM. But you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility.

Since EVERYTHING inside the case depends on good, clean reliable power, it is a mistake to cut corners in the budget on the power supply. So do make sure you get a decent one from a reliable maker. I like EVGA and Seasonic. Read several reviews from the review sites, including this one. Do NOT rely on user reviews.

Also, it is important to understand 80 PLUS certification provides absolutely zero indication of a PSU's quality or reliability. It is about efficiency only. And one of the key requirements is for 80 PLUS certified PSUs to be at least 80% efficient from minimum load up to 100% load. The more efficient a PSU is, the less wasted energy there is, and, perhaps more importantly, the less generated heat there is. I generally recommend at least Bronze but prefer Gold. Unless you find a heavily discounted price, Platinum and Titanium PSUs are not worth the extra costs as it can take years to make up the difference in costs with energy savings.

There is nothing wrong with non-modular (wired) PSUs. In fact, there are fewer parts and obviously fewer connections that introduce additional potentials for problems. But the downside is that wired PSUs greatly increase the need for good cable management. And that is where a quality case comes in.

IMO, a quality PSU along with a quality case make up the foundation for a quality computer that can support you through many years of upgrades. A decent case will support many large (120mm or larger - preferably 140mm) case fans. It will be "true" - that is, the bends in the sheet metal will be exactly 90.0° to ensure all 4 feet sit squarely on the floor - the case will not wobble or put undue stress on the motherboard and other mounted devices. The cut edges of the sheet metal will be "finished". That is, they will be grounded smooth or rolled to prevent shredding your knuckles and wire insulation. There will be good cable management features. And a must for me is the case will have removeable, washable air filters.

So my advice, especially since it looks like a keyboard, mouse, monitor and Windows licenses are all needed too, is wait and try to build up your budget a little more. $1000 will provide a lot more options. And if you buy a quality PSU and case now, along with a full retail license of Windows, and a decent monitor, those are 4 items that can carry you through years of updates without having to buy new each time - unless you want to, of course. That's the beauty of building your own. So many options! :)
Lol, all that bells and whistles - keyboards mice or what made me laugh on the floor - windows license - is NOT obligle components.
 

newtekie1

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Hmm.. I don't know if a 80+ gold will fit in the budget.. would a bronze be decent enough?

There is nothing wrong with going with a 80+ Bronze PSU, as long as it is a good quality unit. The EVGA 700 BQ is a decent Bronze unit.

BTW I am on a budget... I'm trying to keep the pc, monitor, keyboard, mouse, basically everything combined for lower than $700... I hope thats possible

That is going to be an extremely tight budget for everything. The best I could go with decent components that I trust is about $750. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nqtkj2

And that doesn't include a Windows license. But those can be had for very cheap from those cheap key sites or free if you have an old Win7 key laying around...
 
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Lol, all that bells and whistles - keyboards mice or what made me laugh on the floor - windows license - is NOT obligle components.

I fail to see your point or why you think anything is a laughing matter. The OP specifically included in his opening post, the keyboard and mouse (and monitor), along with the PC in his less than $700 budget.

As for Windows licenses, complying with the legally binding terms we all agree to abide by when we decide to use Windows after first boot is indeed a legal (and moral) obligation. That's regardless your own moral values about ripping off a company, or honoring terms of agreements you make.
 
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Since most Windows licenses are OEM/System Builders licenses, and since those OEM/SB licenses cannot, under any circumstances, legally be transferred to a new computer
Doesn't linking your Windows license to your Microsoft account allow you to do just that?

I agree with Bill: fitting keyboard, monitor, and mouse in addition to the PC into a $700 budget is quite tricky unless you really scour the used market. Saving a bit more to up your budget will provide you better quality components out of the gate, and allow you to not cut corners on parts that, if selected properly, can last for years through multiple builds. I tried to get a $700 list together and couldn't without making some questionable decisions. The $1000 budget is a good recommendation, here's a list meeting that budget I threw together: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PZyL4d

- CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 - A versatile choice as it provides adequate gaming performance with strong multi-core performance. Good luck getting ahold of it around it's $200 MSRP.
- Cooler: Stock - Free is good. Won't be the coolest or quietest but it does its job.
- Motherboard: MSI B550-A Pro - The spiritual successor to the highly recommended B450 Tomahawk. That board sold like hotcakes because it was reasonably priced, had solid power delivery components and VRM heatsinks, as well as a solid feature-set; the B550-A Pro does the same for B550. Lacks some bells and whistles, sure, but provides you with PCIe 4.0 capabilities and is compatible with a 5000-series upgrade down the road.
- RAM: Crucial Ballistix 3200 C16 - Basically guaranteed Micron E-die which should easily let you overclock this up to DDR4-3600, the sweet spot for Zen 2.
- Storage: WD Blue SN550 1TB - Again I agree with Bill, 250 GBs is way to small for a single drive-solution these days. With some games larger than 100+ GBs (cough CoD cough), 250GB will fill up extremely fast. A 1TB SSD is a happy medium between a reasonable price as well as sufficient capacity. The SN550 is a solid NVMe drive, and, although current games don't take advantage of NVMe speeds to decrease load times, future games might given that both Sony and Microsoft's new consoles tout NVMe SSDs.
- GPU: Nvidia 1650 Super - As mentioned above in the CPU bullet, buying silicon products right now is generally an absolute shit show thanks to scalpers of the new CPUs and graphics cards, increased demand for PC components, etc. The 1650 Super is for sure a lower-end card, but I couldn't squeeze anything more powerful into the $1000 budget without sufficient compromise. The MSI Gaming X I chose here is more of a placeholder for a model with a decent cooler, and me trying to select a model based on PCPP-listed price is impossible at the moment due to awful availability.
- Case: Cooler Master NR600: I was excited as I had originally noticed the NZXT H500 selling for $45 which I originally had in the list, but between crafting the list and writing this post, the listing disappeared from PCPP. The NR600 is a great mesh-fronted budget case, receiving praise from GamersNexus.
- PSU: Seasonic Focus Gold 550W - You can certainly find cheaper decent quality units here that are suitable for a 1650 system, but as Bill mentioned, a good quality PSU can last years. This unit is fully modular, 80+ Gold rated, and fit the $100 budget, as well as being of good quality. It will allow you room for future upgrades as well.
- Monitor: ASUS VP249QGR - Normally I'd recommend the AOC 24G2 ($180 MSRP), but given we're on a budget, the VP249QGR is a good substitute. It's MSRP is $160, so you save some money there, but it comes at the cost of a pretty shitty stand that offers no adjustments. Otherwise, it's a solid budget option - 24" 1080p 144Hz IPS. You could always get a VESA mount at a later date to replace the awful stand.
- Keyboard and Mouse: Forgot to throw this in the write-up originally. Literally just picked a cheapo bundle that'll get the job done. At this tight of a budget, I wouldn't recommend balling out on peripherals out of the gate. They're so easy to upgrade down the line, and because they're so dependent on personal preference, I can't tell you what to buy anyway. When you do decide to upgrade, I would recommend trying to get to someplace like Best Buy or Microcenter if possible to try things out in person to help you decide things like what keyboard switches you want, which mouse fits your mouse grip the best, etc.

Definitely not the only way to throw a system together, and I'm sure others will have different ways of distributing the budget, but I wanted to get an example list made so you could see the improvements an increased budget will bring you.
 
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Doesn't linking your Windows license to your Microsoft account allow you to do just that?
No. Not unless your license is a full retail license and in that case, you can legally use the same license over and over again AS LONG AS you only use it on one machine at a time. A new computer (or upgraded motherboard) is a new computer. OEM licenses are inextricably tied to the "O"riginal "E"quipment and cannot be transferred. Now for sure, you can change out every other component in your computer - just not the motherboard except as part of a repair and then it must be with an identical board.
I will purchase a LEGAL windows licence for.. say $25. 30. Max. No cent more. $100 for sh@tty Homo Edition? Sorry, they are trying to rip people off.
LOL. And if the brand name was anything other than Microsoft would you feel the same way? :kookoo:

What if Ikea, or Sony, or Toyota?

Chances are, if that licenses costs only $25.20, then the seller is not an authorized seller and that license is not legal. It may be a "valid" key and technically work. But that does not make it authorized or legal. And it may not be worth it economically for MS to go after you, but they sure could if they wanted to. Or they sure can invalidate your license - making all but security updates off-limits to you.

Just because it is Microsoft, that does not make it right to rip them off, even if you do think they are charging too much. You, as a consumer, have options. If you don't like the terms of the end user license agreement (EULA) you absolutely have the option to take your business and money somewhere else and go with a different brand operating system.
 

newtekie1

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This thread is not the place to get into a long discussion on the legality of transferring Windows licenses.

The fact is OEM copies of Windows can't legally be transferred from one computer to another. Another fact is that Microsoft activation system allows you to do it. That's all we need to say, people can take that information and use it however they want.
 
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Im not sure if those ram sticks are E-Die but if you could find some or even older B-Die you will easily be able to oc them with a little voltage.
Ideally your cpu would run at '1800mhz infinity fabric 2000mhz for the XT version of your cpu' and linking this with your memory gives a performance boost.
So you would set your ram to 3600mhz if possible. Lowering the speed of the ram will lower the speed of your infinity fabric.
Apart from that you can pick up a cheap licence on ebay for next to nothing.
Buy a new monitor as theyre so cheap right now. Corsair do some decent cheap Keyboards and mice .
Go for a Seasonic PSU (power supply) and i highly recommend the Thermaltake Versa H22 for a case.
What ever you pick you can always come back here and get help with setting it up. :toast:
As far as transferring a Windows licence, it may work and accept your old code.
Every piece of hardware in your system adds to its Hardware address. Each component adds a number.
When you change too many pieces of hardware at once it makes windows think you have transferred the hard drive to a new unlicensed computer.
Re-adding the code is usually enough but sometimes it doesn't accept it meaning you must buy a new licence.
They are £10-£20 for a Windows10 Pro licence in the UK.
 
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RiverFlows73

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You broke one of the two cardinal rules when seeking buying advice. The first you met - you stated your budget and that is great! :) However, you failed to state the primary purpose for this computer. Will it be used primarily for work and school? Monitoring and updating Facebook? Paying bills, surfing the Internet and checking email? Gaming?

Speaking of your budget, while $700 is certainly doable, when the keyboard, mouse and monitor must come out of that too, that budget is pretty tight. Plus, it is important to understand new computers typically require their own Windows license. Since most Windows licenses are OEM/System Builders licenses, and since those OEM/SB licenses cannot, under any circumstances, legally be transferred to a new computer, you likely need to budget for a new Windows license too - or plan on going with one of the many capable and free versions of Linux. That means you cannot just take an old drive that includes Windows out of an old computer, put it in a new computer and be good to go legally.

Also, IMO, your SSD is too small. While technically, 240GB will support Windows, all your drivers, and most applications, it will not take long for free disk space to become limited. That will impact performance and can help accelerate aging of the SSD. I recommend at least 500GB. That will give you lots of room for the OS, drivers, and all your applications (except major games) and allow optimal and efficient SSD TRIM and wear leveling operations - essential to ensure maximum life and performance out of your SSDs.

That said, your question was about compatibility. Fortunately, when it comes to building our own PCs, the ATX Form Factor standard helps ensure components will physically fit together and connect properly in terms of electrical connections and voltages. :)

As for other compatibility issues, if you look at your motherboard's support page here, you will see memory and CPU QVLs (qualified vendors lists). These are lists of components the board maker has tested and verified to be compatible with that specific board. There are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all so you don't have to buy listed RAM. But you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility.

Since EVERYTHING inside the case depends on good, clean reliable power, it is a mistake to cut corners in the budget on the power supply. So do make sure you get a decent one from a reliable maker. I like EVGA and Seasonic. Read several reviews from the review sites, including this one. Do NOT rely on user reviews.

Also, it is important to understand 80 PLUS certification provides absolutely zero indication of a PSU's quality or reliability. It is about efficiency only. And one of the key requirements is for 80 PLUS certified PSUs to be at least 80% efficient from minimum load up to 100% load. The more efficient a PSU is, the less wasted energy there is, and, perhaps more importantly, the less generated heat there is. I generally recommend at least Bronze but prefer Gold. Unless you find a heavily discounted price, Platinum and Titanium PSUs are not worth the extra costs as it can take years to make up the difference in costs with energy savings.

There is nothing wrong with non-modular (wired) PSUs. In fact, there are fewer parts and obviously fewer connections that introduce additional potentials for problems. But the downside is that wired PSUs greatly increase the need for good cable management. And that is where a quality case comes in.

IMO, a quality PSU along with a quality case make up the foundation for a quality computer that can support you through many years of upgrades. A decent case will support many large (120mm or larger - preferably 140mm) case fans. It will be "true" - that is, the bends in the sheet metal will be exactly 90.0° to ensure all 4 feet sit squarely on the floor - the case will not wobble or put undue stress on the motherboard and other mounted devices. The cut edges of the sheet metal will be "finished". That is, they will be grounded smooth or rolled to prevent shredding your knuckles and wire insulation. There will be good cable management features. And a must for me is the case will have removeable, washable air filters.

So my advice, especially since it looks like a keyboard, mouse, monitor and Windows licenses are all needed too, is wait and try to build up your budget a little more. $1000 will provide a lot more options. And if you buy a quality PSU and case now, along with a full retail license of Windows, and a decent monitor, those are 4 items that can carry you through years of updates without having to buy new each time - unless you want to, of course. That's the beauty of building your own. So many options! :)

Wow thanks for the long advice! Currently, with the parts i was planning on buying plus a decent monitor, I've added up the money and it's around the $700 mark. Although after all the advice I've heard from you guys I might change out the PSU, maybe the ram too. That could mean maybe a $800 or $850 budget and I think that would be just fine. :)

Oh and on another note, my dad says that I should buy a monitor from bigger companies like Samsung, Acer, Asus, HP, etc. However, there are cheaper options such as domestic brands that are only in my countries' market. (Oh and I'm not from the US so I don't plan on buying things from Amazon)
Is my dad right and should I buy a monitor from bigger companies, or are the "small" companies' monitors reliable enough too? Just you know, like a general opinion on monitors from small companies. BTW, the specs I want are 1080p, and 22-24 inch screen. If possible built in speakers too as I dont have a lot of space on my desk. Also, I don't plan on doing too much gaming on this but I do want the total thing to be able to run games with decent quality. Any recommendations on monitors?
 
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No. Not unless your license is a full retail license and in that case, you can legally use the same license over and over again AS LONG AS you only use it on one machine at a time. A new computer (or upgraded motherboard) is a new computer. OEM licenses are inextricably tied to the "O"riginal "E"quipment and cannot be transferred. Now for sure, you can change out every other component in your computer - just not the motherboard except as part of a repair and then it must be with an identical board.
LOL. And if the brand name was anything other than Microsoft would you feel the same way? :kookoo:

What if Ikea, or Sony, or Toyota?

Chances are, if that licenses costs only $25.20, then the seller is not an authorized seller and that license is not legal. It may be a "valid" key and technically work. But that does not make it authorized or legal. And it may not be worth it economically for MS to go after you, but they sure could if they wanted to. Or they sure can invalidate your license - making all but security updates off-limits to you.

Just because it is Microsoft, that does not make it right to rip them off, even if you do think they are charging too much. You, as a consumer, have options. If you don't like the terms of the end user license agreement (EULA) you absolutely have the option to take your business and money somewhere else and go with a different brand operating system.
The deal is not the brand, but the product. Yes, I also say, $700-1000 for Photoshop CS6 (was then days back before cloud subscription trash) was TOO MUCH. They could make a private single use license for same $100, and big corporate edition for their put $1000. The deal is not the brand, the deal is the price. I will buy phone app for, say, $5, but I won’t for $15. It’s PHONE app, not PC software. Maybe my logic is stupid, but that’s it. And I better not say about MS Office prices, or, new subscription piece of “fake office”, lol
 
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The deal is not the brand, but the product. Yes, I also say, $700-1000 for Photoshop CS6 (was then days back before cloud subscription trash) was TOO MUCH. They could make a private single use license for same $100, and big corporate edition for their put $1000. The deal is not the brand, the deal is the price. I will buy phone app for, say, $5, but I won’t for $15. It’s PHONE app, not PC software. Maybe my logic is stupid, but that’s it. And I better not say about MS Office prices, or, new subscription piece of “fake office”, lol

Why use any of those Calibre Office and Gimp are free and do 99.9% of what those two paid programs do and @Bill_Bright I've used an OEM license on 3 different mobo's in the same machine MS don't seem to have a problem with it so why should I
 
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Why use any of those Calibre Office and Gimp are free and do 99.9% of what those two paid programs do and @Bill_Bright I've used an OEM license on 3 different mobo's in the same machine MS don't seem to have a problem with it so why should I
And now the thing is, there is no free alternative to Photoshop, Acrobat and MS Office. So, monopoly time here :) I know Gimp, all kinda “office”, “pdf editors” for cheap or free etc., but i just better use MS Paint, wordpad which do on same quality side lol ;)
 
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and should I buy a monitor from bigger companies, or are the "small" companies' monitors reliable enough too?
That's probably impossible for us to answer without knowing specific model numbers. Frankly, your dad's advice could probably be used for just about anything. Sticking with the major brands is typically a "safe" bet that you will get a decent product with a decent warranty and decent support. That does not mean you will get the absolute best product for your money. There are many scenarios when it is better to "buy local".

If me, and I needed to trim the budget today, I would be willing to purchase a cheap, off-brand monitor for now to carry me over for a year or two until I could rebuild my budget for the monitor(s) I really wanted. If going for a budget monitor now means you can get a bigger SSD and better PSU now, I think that would be a wiser decision.

If my dad was pushing me to go with a major and more expensive brand, I would ask him to pitch in more cash to bump up the budget! ;)

As far as monitor size, I used to run with two 22" monitors and was very happy with them. Then one died so I upgraded to two 24" monitors. I don't know how I lived with those "little tiny" 22 inch monitors before.
:rolleyes:
It's amazing how much bigger and how much more desktop real estate you get with 24 over 22.

As far as your RAM, 8GB is still a decent amount especially with a SSD as the boot drive, and the page file on that boot SSD. And depending on the games you will only occasionally be playing, may be plenty. Still, I personally like to buy all the RAM I think I will ever need during the initial build - just to avoid upgrade compatibility (and availability) issues down the road. So if you can budget for 2 x 8GB for 16GB total, go for it.

***

The deal is not the brand, but the product.
True. But that was not what you were suggesting earlier when you said "they" (suggesting Microsoft, the "brand") were "trying to rip people off". And you used that reason to rationalize paying no more than $25. That is clearly a "too good to be true" price IMO, for a legitimate (not the same as authentic) key sold by an authorized retailer. Those keys are typically unused keys from a volume license and by the terms of the volume license agreement (I've bought several), unused keys are not supposed to be split out and sold separately. But they often are. :( So authentic (as in working) keys, yes. But legitimate (as in obtained via authorized re-sellers)? No.
and @Bill_Bright I've used an OEM license on 3 different mobo's in the same machine MS don't seem to have a problem with it so why should I
That's not for me to answer. I'm no moral judge and I am not the morality cops. And I'm no saint either! I am just passing along the facts so readers have all the information they need to make "informed decisions". What people do with that information is their business, not mine.

I note Microsoft still allows us to upgrade to W10 from W7 and W8.1 too, even though the free upgrade period ended years ago. They could easily modify the code to block the upgrade, but they have left it in. Why? IDK but I suspect it is because they want to keep the MS haters from complaining and their customers happy - which is good for business in the long run.

Frankly, I think $100 for W10 Home is a fair price. Consider Windows 3.0 was released way back in 1990 and cost $149.95. And, it required you already have DOS installed. And we must not forget there are free alternatives. Linux is a great OS and in terms of productivity (as opposed to playing games), is a fully capable OS too. And when it comes to games, there are alternative gaming platforms too. Contrary to what some people may think, Microsoft does not have a monopoly on anything.
 
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That's probably impossible for us to answer without knowing specific model numbers. Frankly, your dad's advice could probably be used for just about anything. Sticking with the major brands is typically a "safe" bet that you will get a decent product with a decent warranty and decent support. That does not mean you will get the absolute best product for your money. There are many scenarios when it is better to "buy local".

If me, and I needed to trim the budget today, I would be willing to purchase a cheap, off-brand monitor for now to carry me over for a year or two until I could rebuild my budget for the monitor(s) I really wanted. If going for a budget monitor now means you can get a bigger SSD and better PSU now, I think that would be a wiser decision.

If my dad was pushing me to go with a major and more expensive brand, I would ask him to pitch in more cash to bump up the budget! ;)

As far as monitor size, I used to run with two 22" monitors and was very happy with them. Then one died so I upgraded to two 24" monitors. I don't know how I lived with those "little tiny" 22 inch monitors before.
:rolleyes:
It's amazing how much bigger and how much more desktop real estate you get with 24 over 22.

As far as your RAM, 8GB is still a decent amount especially with a SSD as the boot drive, and the page file on that boot SSD. And depending on the games you will only occasionally be playing, may be plenty. Still, I personally like to buy all the RAM I think I will ever need during the initial build - just to avoid upgrade compatibility (and availability) issues down the road. So if you can budget for 2 x 8GB for 16GB total, go for it.

***


True. But that was not what you were suggesting earlier when you said "they" (suggesting Microsoft, the "brand") were "trying to rip people off". And you used that reason to rationalize paying no more than $25. That is clearly a "too good to be true" price IMO, for a legitimate (not the same as authentic) key sold by an authorized retailer. Those keys are typically unused keys from a volume license and by the terms of the volume license agreement (I've bought several), unused keys are not supposed to be split out and sold separately. But they often are. :( So authentic (as in working) keys, yes. But legitimate (as in obtained via authorized re-sellers)? No.
That's not for me to answer. I'm no moral judge and I am not the morality cops. And I'm no saint either! I am just passing along the facts so readers have all the information they need to make "informed decisions". What people do with that information is their business, not mine.

I note Microsoft still allows us to upgrade to W10 from W7 and W8.1 too, even though the free upgrade period ended years ago. They could easily modify the code to block the upgrade, but they have left it in. Why? IDK but I suspect it is because they want to keep the MS haters from complaining and their customers happy - which is good for business in the long run.

Frankly, I think $100 for W10 Home is a fair price. Consider Windows 3.0 was released way back in 1990 and cost $149.95. And, it required you already have DOS installed. And we must not forget there are free alternatives. Linux is a great OS and in terms of productivity (as opposed to playing games), is a fully capable OS too. And when it comes to games, there are alternative gaming platforms too. Contrary to what some people may think, Microsoft does not have a monopoly on anything.
Macos is good os for productivity opposed to games. Linux is geek-sex-with-pc-enthusiasist piece of code.
 
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the specs I want are 1080p, and 22-24 inch screen. If possible built in speakers too as I dont have a lot of space on my desk. Also, I don't plan on doing too much gaming on this but I do want the total thing to be able to run games with decent quality. Any recommendations on monitors?
I cant help but suggest a tv with that budget.
How about something like this, if you dont mind 60hz and a big screen ON THE WALL i have a Sony Bravia XD85 55inch for sale, i could ship to you. PM me for a price and we can go through the sellers section of this forum.

Otherwise i'd say to look at tv's with HDMI2.1 - HDMI2.2 as these all have the bandwidth to run 4k@120hz.

The prices at the moment are ridiculously low.

If you could place one on the wall in front of you, I can tell you it is a special kind of enjoyable experience. Cinematic almost, I know monitors have very low lag(1-8ms) but these 120hz TV's offer 8ms Grey to Grey which is pretty good for such large screens.

I went from Samsung 18"60hz to 24", 40", Sony 55" to LG 65"120hz and i absolutely love the larger TV screens. A monitor at this size would be incredible but i dont have £3000 for an Nvidia BFG.

Let me know you can get any of the new Samsung TV's which have HDMI2.2 in your area and their price? Like i say they are really cheap in the EU atm.

Otherwise if you cant mount to the wall, I'd look for a curved wide screen monitor for your desk. :toast:
 

RiverFlows73

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I cant help but suggest a tv with that budget.
How about something like this, if you dont mind 60hz and a big screen ON THE WALL i have a Sony Bravia XD85 55inch for sale, i could ship to you. PM me for a price and we can go through the sellers section of this forum.

Otherwise i'd say to look at tv's with HDMI2.1 - HDMI2.2 as these all have the bandwidth to run 4k@120hz.

The prices at the moment are ridiculously low.

If you could place one on the wall in front of you, I can tell you it is a special kind of enjoyable experience. Cinematic almost, I know monitors have very low lag(1-8ms) but these 120hz TV's offer 8ms Grey to Grey which is pretty good for such large screens.

I went from Samsung 18"60hz to 24", 40", Sony 55" to LG 65"120hz and i absolutely love the larger TV screens. A monitor at this size would be incredible but i dont have £3000 for an Nvidia BFG.

Let me know you can get any of the new Samsung TV's which have HDMI2.2 in your area and their price? Like i say they are really cheap in the EU atm.

Otherwise if you cant mount to the wall, I'd look for a curved wide screen monitor for your desk. :toast:

Thanks but I don't think I'll be using a TV. I already have a 4K TV but it's in the living room and I don't have a lot of space on my desk.
 
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Thanks but I don't think I'll be using a TV. I already have a 4K TV but it's in the living room and I don't have a lot of space on my desk.
Why don’t you want 24” 1440p then? 1080p is so so old now, and not worth purchasing in 2020 unless for really low spec pc.
 

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hmm i heard that 1440 gaming requires a 6gb graphics card... and although I won't playing too much, I will probably play a bit. So I don't wanna suffer because the graphics card can't handle my monitor that well.
Correct me if I'm wrong. :)
 
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hmm i heard that 1440 gaming requires a 6gb graphics card... and although I won't playing too much, I will probably play a bit. So I don't wanna suffer because the graphics card can't handle my monitor that well.
Correct me if I'm wrong. :)
Call me idiot but I replaced my 1080.60 monitor with 4k.60.. the funny moment is I have 1660 Super only, lol. I also heard I need 8-10 GB VRAM to run games at 4K. Woow, what you think? It will depend WHAT games you will play! Unoptimized or highly demanding games like Control/RDR2/Rust/Detroit Become Human etc. of course will require you to have 2080 Ti at least to run them normally at 4K, but.. what if you play Fortnite, CSGO and so on? Not my case, but same - games are few years old and don’t need crazy GPU to play. So don’t trust these “sofa analytics”, unless you have found the proofs (tests on youtube for example) that your favourite game requires this and that to run perfectly at some resolution ;)
 
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I cant help but suggest a tv with that budget.
How about something like this, if you dont mind 60hz and a big screen ON THE WALL i have a Sony Bravia XD85 55inch for sale, i could ship to you. PM me for a price and we can go through the sellers section of this forum.

Otherwise i'd say to look at tv's with HDMI2.1 - HDMI2.2 as these all have the bandwidth to run 4k@120hz.

The prices at the moment are ridiculously low.

If you could place one on the wall in front of you, I can tell you it is a special kind of enjoyable experience. Cinematic almost, I know monitors have very low lag(1-8ms) but these 120hz TV's offer 8ms Grey to Grey which is pretty good for such large screens.

I went from Samsung 18"60hz to 24", 40", Sony 55" to LG 65"120hz and i absolutely love the larger TV screens. A monitor at this size would be incredible but i dont have £3000 for an Nvidia BFG.

Let me know you can get any of the new Samsung TV's which have HDMI2.2 in your area and their price? Like i say they are really cheap in the EU atm.

Otherwise if you cant mount to the wall, I'd look for a curved wide screen monitor for your desk. :toast:
Off topic small.

I have KD-65XE9305
Great tv with good options :), but I'm disappointed in their presets torwards. Ps4 and ps5 looks amazing. When I connect nintendo switch or xbox... it looks like garbage with pre-built. There are so many options to change which affects quality, tried changing them but in the vail... Out of my league as I didnt achieve what I wanted or just it's sony. "Dont buy other crap, buy only our stuff".

Few times did connect pc and played games on 4K, that looked freaking C______C nice, but wondered if it was f***** as well because of sony presets but quality was saved because od 4K..


Back to the monitors.

Look at specific models for comparison. Check nearests deals.
 
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