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Are there Fans with more than 7.7 in H2O?

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If you haven't figured it out yet, a fan only really needs red and black. Stick a 9V battery on them and see what happens. XD

attache yellow to rpm pin at mobo fan connector and check if bios gets readings for rpm
then for blue only one left will be pwm
 
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Well, they both work, and holy bejangles they push a lot of air at 9v! Not that loud at 9v either

EDIT: OK, so I soldered on two old PWM cables i got from old pc's at work, tested the black and red by sticking paperclips in the end of the PWM female connection and when touched against a battery they work.

HOWEVER, when it tried plugging both of them in to a work PC with a PWM (I also tried a simple 3pin), neither fans spin up.

I also tried putting it into the pwm slot backwards, and also tried plugging it into a 3pin with only the black and red soldered in.
 
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cdawall

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Mine are currently just run on the black and red in the same order and work fine. Try them into a fan molex adapter remember these are high amp fans the board might not be able to power them. You should be able to run the blue/yellow on the PWM connector and red/black into a molex.
 
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So as it turns out the yellow and blue on my fans are actually misrepresented, resoldered yellow to blue and blue to yellow on both fans, they are now kicking Corsair stock fan's asses at a mere 50% speed. Mounted them with tie wraps!
 

cdawall

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Glad it was an easy fix. Are you running them straight them off the board?
 
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Glad it was an easy fix. Are you running them straight them off the board?

Yep, using SYS 1 & 2 headers, set to 50% still pushing an ass tonne of air. I can literally ventelate my face above my pc
 
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So you like these fans?
 

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Yep, using SYS 1 & 2 headers, set to 50% still pushing an ass tonne of air. I can literally ventelate my face above my pc

Sounds like I am going to have to try mine off the PWM headers when I get back home. Might be slightly excessive to cool just a CPU with the radiator setup :laugh:
 
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So you like these fans?

Hell yeah, the air that gets pushed through the radiator seems to be pretty cold, I imagine its overkill for a H100. Might look into getting a CPU W/C loop with a proper Rad so I can make full use of the cooling power, since the H100 rad is pretty thin.
 
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Hell yeah, the air that gets pushed through the radiator seems to be pretty cold, I imagine its overkill for a H100. Might look into getting a CPU W/C loop with a proper Rad so I can make full use of the cooling power, since the H100 rad is pretty thin.

hm cpu only?
why not put this 780 into loop as well.
:D this is how -500£ started :D
 
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hm cpu only?
why not put this 780 into loop as well.
:D this is how -500£ started :D

My 780 is maxed out overclock-wise and only hits 69 degrees at full load, no need for watercooling!
 
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My 780 is maxed out overclock-wise and only hits 69 degrees at full load, no need for watercooling!

have you tired voltage tuning
 
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ok not -500 but -350

I'll probably check out the XSPC kits, and OCUK occasionally has deals on W/C kits too, just want a nice big thick 240mm rad.
 
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would be siedon 240 cheaper solution.
XSPC use only blue leds in their stuff. ek would give you bigger choice in colloring
 

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Swiftech H220.
 
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cdawall

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I was debating that, but it doesnt seem as effective as a custom loop, which have thicker rads.

Yes and no. Thicker rads are nice, but the same thing can be accomplished with a high FPI rad in the same space you have now. HWlabs Black Ice GT rads are an example of this.
 
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